Strasbourg – The Cathedral, Petit France, and Lunch at “Christkindelsmärik”

We slept well after having a pretty busy day; hard to believe the difference between Paris and the Christmas Market in Strasbourg. The only real plans we made for our stay in Strasbourg was for the apartment and the dinner we had the previous night. We just wanted to relax and enjoy ourselves.

IMG_7774 IMG_7777We stepped out into a brisk, but beautiful morning. The sun reflected its orange colors off the buildings.

We decided to head on over to the Cathedral to get a better look at it. There was also one item in the Cathedral that I really wanted to see.

So we headed out; down the pedestrian only alleyways of the Grande Île.

We strolled down Rue du Dome, which ended right at Strasbourg Cathedral; the sun reflecting orange rays off the bell tower.

It was quite a stunning sight.

IMG_7784
IMG_7784 

IMG_7781 IMG_7782Like I mentioned in my previous post; Strasbourg Cathedral was once the tallest building in the world.

There are also some interesting stories about the Cathedral; one of the most interesting, you'll find a version here; is of the Devil , riding on the wind, was drawn to a sculpture in the Cathedral, showing him in the form of "a tempter". Curious, he left the wind outside and entered the Cathedral and was imprisoned in one of the pillars. To this day; the wind still awaits his return outside the Cathedral. Which is why it is always so blustery in Cathedral Square.

IMG_7792

The Apse is quite stunning.

IMG_7793
IMG_7793

As are other parts of the Cathedral.

IMG_7803

IMG_7795 IMG_2684But, as I mentioned, there was one main thing I had come to see. Since our visit to Prague a few years back; I'd become rather fascinated Astronomical Clocks like the one in the Old Town Square of that city. I'd only seen one other Astronomical Clock; this one in Olomouc, so I was interested in seeing another. This one is actually the third clock. The first had been built in the 14th Century, the second in the 16th Century. This one dates back to 1843. It is also one of the largest.

Satisfied we headed back out. There's a Christmas Market in Cathedral Square. The theme of this market is a different country every year….this year it was…..well we had a chuckle.

IMG_7783 IMG_7789Iceland; where we had just been the previous year! All these little connections……

I still wanted to get a decent photo of the Cathedral, so I walked down the alley of Rue Merciere. Since it was early, there wasn't much traffic, of the wheeled or two-legged kind.

So I snapped a photo. Not sure if it it's especially great; but it would be the best I would get on this trip.

Walk across the street and you are on Place Gutenberg; yes, named after that Gutenberg. Johannes Gutenberg lived in Strasbourg for around faive years or so. It is said that during this time he presented his printing press to the world in a publication called Kunst und Aventur (art and enterprise). Naturally, a statue of Gutenberg stands in the square.

IMG_7790

From here; we decided to hit up the TI and they recommended we take a boat tour around the Grande Île. Because of the green tinted windows; my photos didn't turn out well; but here's a short video clip.

IMG_2686-1

And, I got a nice shot of the row of buildings where our apartment was. You can see it was quite a nice location.

IMG_7842

The boat ride ended in the area known as Petit France. This picturesque and historic area is where the River Ill splits into four canals.

IMG_7852
IMG_7852

And is known for the covered bridges in the area; you can still see the fortifications for those bridges that date back to the 13th century.

IMG_7864

It is quite touristy, but also very charming.

IMG_7855
IMG_7855

IMG_7853

Because of the river and canals; this was where the tanners and other folks lived. In an interesting twist; the name "Petit France" is not named for its architecture, but because of a 16th century hospital that treated "zum Franzosel" (the French disease), aka syphilis while still a free city in the Holy Roman Empire. Apparently, the citizens of Strasbourg believed the disease was the fault of the French. Basically, the idea was to isolate those with the disease in a structure in this district.

IMG_2698

On a totally unrelated (to venereal disease) note. Since we were in the area; we decided to finally try some Vin Chaud; mulled wine.

IMG_7846

Basically warm, mulled wine…….

IMG_7847

You know, we never developed a taste for this…..gaaack…it was really sour, warm, and in most cases spiced. One of our friends wade a video of all of our faces after drinking this stuff. On a positive note; it really did warm you up….but you had to swallow of course. As you can read yourself on this post: "Vin Chaud was originally made as a means of saving wine that had gone bad—by adding sugar and spices it often made the wine drinkable again" You did get some nice souvenir cups though.

By now, we decided to head back to the apartment. But after that vin chaud we were in need of some sustenance. We stopped by the Christkindelsmärik on Place Broglie just two blocks from the apartment. This stand looked quite popular.

IMG_7871

Seems this fellow resented not getting his share of choucroute garnie.

IMG_7875

The Missus got the Choucroute d'Alsace; She just can't ever get enough fermented cabbage it seems. The knack was nice and snappy and the smoked sausage quite nice.

IMG_7866

The potatoes were tender…what's not to like….since She just loved the charcroute, who am I to deny Her access to this….we'd basically have it for every meal.

I decided to try the Munster en Baguette.

IMG_7869 IMG_7873Very ripe smelling Munster cheese, but very mild and milky, almost sweet in flavor; on a nice crusty baguette….the ripe tomatoes added just enough acidity to cut through the richness and salty tones. This was quite enjoyable.

Then we made a mistake of trying more vin chaud! This was better, not as puckery….but we're not sold on this……

As this fellow seemed to say to me "fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice……."

IMG_7876

It was obviously time for a nap!

Thanks for reading!

Strasbourg – Experiencing the Christmas Market and Dinner at Chez Yvonne

It was a rather quick hour and forty-five minute train ride from Gare l'Est to Strasbourg Station. From there we walked to the apartment we were staying at which was right across the river on the Grande Île, the "island" which is the center of the city which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We were a bit shocked to find bag checks and road blocks manned by soldiers for folks crossing over to the Grande Île. I didn't know it at the time; but Strasbourg, along with being famous for having one of the best Christmas Markets in Europe is also the home of the European Parliament, the European Court of Human Rights, and the Eurocorps.

We settled into our apartment; which was huge……three bedrooms….crazy. And we loved the views across the river from the front door and the unit.

DSC_0166
DSC_0166

Here you can see the bridge we crossed and the security detail in place.

IMG_2630

Like I mentioned above; the apartment we stayed in was large and so comfortable. And the details were kind of…well, interesting.

IMG_2720
IMG_2720
IMG_2720
IMG_2720
IMG_2720

We took a nice short nap and awoke refreshed. We decided to head out and explore before finding the restaurant where we had dinner reservations.

During the Christmas Season (from November 24th this year, 2018) Strasbourg has an amazing Christmas Market.

IMG_2631
IMG_2631
IMG_2631
IMG_2631

IMG_2644
IMG_2644 IMG_2646Actually the term "Christmas Market" is incorrect, as there are if I recall correctly, 11 different markets (called "Christkindelsmärik") that occupy different areas of the island. The Grande Île is quite walkable, so we just started at the one closest to us at Place Broglie, which is also the oldest Christmas Market in the city, having been established in 1570!

Once the sun sets and the lights are turned on the city is transformed.

It's really hard to not get into the spirit of things with all of this joy, bright lights, the atmosphere is quite magical. Yes, I'm sure at its core there are commercial concerns, but man, you'd have to be a major scrooge to not get into the spirit of things.

The basic center of things is the giant Christmas Tree in Place Kléber. The market surrounding the tree is called the "Village of Sharing" and we were told that the stalls here sell their goods and food for charity.

IMG_2645
IMG_2645

Strasbourg is called the Capitale de Noël (the Capital of Christmas) and it's easy to see why.

Don't forget to look up…..there's something to see on almost every building.

IMG_2659 IMG_7762
Strasbourg Cathedral is quite grand as it rises above the city. The spire rises to 466 feet. The Cathedral, built in the Gothic style was, for over 200 years (227 to be exact) the tallest building in the world! Because of surrounding buildings and the size of the square, it's actually somewhat of a challenge getting the whole structure into a single frame. We'd spend some time visiting the Cathedral (for one main reason) the next day.

After wandering the stalls around the square we had to head off to find our destination for dinner.

I had wanted to try the traditional food of Alsace so I made dinner reservations at a Winstub. Strasbourg and Alsace as a whole sits on the Eastern border of France. In fact, the eastern border of Strasbourg sits on the Rhine. Across the river is Germany and the city of Kehl.

Over the last 350 years of so, control of Strasbourg has gone back and forth between France and Germany, so you can imagine the influences of the cuisine of the area.

IMG_7754

We found our destination Chez Yvonne under another wonderfully decorated window, down a side street, close to the Cathedral.

IMG_7756

A restaurant has stood in this location since 1870; and Chez Yvonne dates back to the 1950's.

IMG_7753

We were seated upstairs. We enjoyed the Service which was friendly and the Missus enjoys Alsatian wines.

IMG_7738

We started with the Goose Liver Foie Gras.

IMG_7739

The was wonderfully creamy, though a bit too cold in terms of temperature. The flavor was on the milder side for Foie Gras….and that sea salt perfectly enhanced the flavor.

The Missus got the Veal Tongue which was super tender and quite mild in flavor.

IMG_7746 IMG_7747As you can tell, this is hearty, meat and potatoes fare. Still, very nicely prepared, straight forward food. There was a mild vinaigrette dressing the tongue.

If you've read this blog long enough, you know the Missus loves fermented and pickled items. Thus I ordered the Choucroute Garnie….yes choucroute is what we know here in the states as Sauerkraut….and I'm truly aware that "Garnie" means "throw every kind of protein you can on the plate".

IMG_7744

The Missus loved the cabbage; it was much more tender than what passes as sauerkraut here. I enjoyed the knack (the long snappy sausage) and the rinderwurst (the smoked sausage) the most. The pork and the liver dumplings were on the bland side. From this point on; the Missus and I decided to just hit all the sausage and choucroute stands.

IMG_7751 IMG_7755All in all, this was a fun meal. The service was very nice and we got a taste of the rather heavy traditional cuisine of Alsace. Luckily, the only thing we'd had the whole day were croissants, so we were able to put away all this meat with no problem.

Chez Yvonne
10 Rue du Sanglier
67000 Strasbourg, France

Nice and warm, with full bellies we decided to take the long way back to the apartment.

IMG_7761

The lights, the lively hustle and bustle, it just put us in the right frame of mind.

Yes, it's wonderful Strasbourg……

IMG_7770

Capitale de Noël indeed!

Thanks for stopping by!

Paris – The Pantheon and a Revisit to Arnaud Nicolas

After finishing up shopping and eating near Saint Germain; the Missus and I decided to just wander around a bit and ended up at the Pantheon.

IMG_7650

Though we'd visited the area before, we decided to actually enter and check the place out. There was one thing I really wanted to see……in February of 1851, physicist Léon Foucault, assembled scientists at the Paris Observatory and using a simple pendulum and his newly derived sine law to prove the earth rotates. A month later; Napoleon III requested that he repeat the demonstration in the Pantheon in the central dome.

IMG_7655

IMG_7656

The Pantheon was originally built to be a church to dedicated to the Patron Saint of Paris; St Genevieve, who is said to have saved Paris from the armies of Attila the Hun in 1451. The church was completed in 1790, which coincided with the beginning of the French Revolution. In 1791, the National Assembly determined that the structure be turned into a mausoleum. 

IMG_2611 - Copy 

IMG_7662
IMG_7662

Internment can only be presented by the President and approved by parliamentary act.

On the day we visited there was a special exhibit of the works and career of Marie Curie.

IMG_7665

IMG_7666

Who was the first woman enshrined in the Pantheon in 1995, over 200 years after the first internment. I was especially interested since one of my Mom's favorite movies was Madame Curie.

We decided to check out the crypt and walk among the remains of France's "National Heroes".

IMG_7667
IMG_7667
IMG_7667

We then walked back to the 7th and took a nice break (nap) at the apartment. It was dark when we awoke. We headed off to dinner…..we had enjoyed our meal at Arnaud Nicolas the previous evening so much that we booked a return visit.

IMG_7678

You can read my previous post on Arnaud Nicolas….. Let me just say that it was just as delicious on this visit as well.

IMG_7679
IMG_7679
IMG_7679
IMG_7679

IMG_7684
IMG_7684
IMG_7684
IMG_7684

It's the charcuterie that's the star here. And the service was just as friendly and gracious as the night before.

Arnaud Nicolas
46 Avenue de la Bourdonnais
75007 Paris, France

Our train to Strasbourg wasn't leaving until the next day at 2pm; as is the norm when on vacation, we woke rather early. With no plans we decided to pack, then just start walking.

We ended up strolling down Rue du Commerce in the 15th Arrondissement. It was a less touristy and quite diverse section of the city.

IMG_7697

IMG_7700

We turned around near the Eglise Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Grenelle.

IMG_7702

We walked back and found the Rue de Grenelle Market…..where we just wandered and browsed for a while.

IMG_7703

And had a quick coffee and croissant at the corner shop.

IMG_7704

Then headed back to the apartment….packed, then caught the metro to Gare l'est…….

IMG_7708

Next up….Strasbourg!

Paris – Arnaud Nicolas

On our last trip to Paris; I made only two dinner reservations. One of them was for Arnaud Nicolas. First off, it was in the 7th Arrondissement, the Missus's favorite area in the city…..She is still in love with that Paris dream. You know, the one with Eiffel Tower in the background, with the oh-so-Parisian food street Rue Cler at your doorstep.

Finding a place in the area, reasonably priced, that served charcuterie from a young chef who achieved the title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) at the age of 24. Well, I was quite curious. And being that we love charcuterie…. we just had to check it out.

IMG_7619

Located on busy Avenue de la Bourdonnais, I believe this place wasn't even here on our previous visit to Paris in 2016.

Part deli part restaurant; we loved the casual, yet refined atmosphere, and the service was excellent.

IMG_7618

I had walked past the counter with the fabulous looking pate en croute and other charcuterie that I was just ready to order everything off the menu.

Luckily, our Server calmed me down with a nice glass of white wine (free as you're seated). We decided to order a nice variety from the "Entrées de Charcuterie". What arrived was so beautiful looking, especially the two pate en croute.

IMG_7608 IMG_7609Both the "Volailles et Foie gras de Canard", basically foie gras, duck, chicken and the "Caille, Poire et Pistache", quail and foie gras with pear and pistachio were excellent. The pastry, was delicate, I'm used to doughy and rather hard pastry, this was delicate, light, and still held some texture. It also nicely "hugged" the pate.

While we loved both, our favorite of the two was the beautiful quail and foie gras Caille.

The interplay of earthy-offal tones and mild sweetness just went together so well.

The Missus laughed as instead of digging right into these….I took some time….to enjoy how lovely they looked.

Easily the best pate en croute I've ever had.

IMG_7610

The Terrine de Gibier had a wonderful gameiness.

IMG_7611

It looked lean and tough, but had a perfect toothsomeness. Not overly salty, but with a nice assertive flavor, this was quite nice and dense.

The Foie Gras mi-cuit (in the foreground) was everything you could ever want. Wonderfully balanced offal-sweet flavors, smooth, decadent richness, with just the right amount of "heft". It just seemed so perfect.

IMG_7613

The only "clunker" of the night was the Foie Gras – Truffle (in the rear), two of the Missus's favorite food groups, which just fell flat. Perhaps the foie gras and pate en croute had soiled our tastebuds, but it seemed like, at least with this, that the two main ingredients cancelled each other out. We could really not taste any truffle and the foie gras flavor was faint….we expected the texture to be the same as the mi-cuit, but it was strangely waxy.

We decided to split our main course, which the kitchen graciously did for us. After all the charcuterie, I wanted to try the Boudin Blanc with Truffle. This dish just blew us away.

IMG_7615

The black trumpet mushrooms and Jerusalem artichokes were just perfect…..but it was that traditionally finely textured, mildly flavored, white sausage that blew us away. It was nicely seared, which added just the perfect amount of crispness, the restrained amount of truffle was perfect….just a hint, a tease, just enough. The sausage had a mild porkiness to it. But it was the texture that was amazing as it just melted away in your mouth.

As you can tell, we loved Arnaud Nicolas. It was the type of place that suited us well. "Real" and traditional food, executed masterfully.  We enjoyed our meal and the staff so much……we made dinner reservations for the following evening!

Arnaud Nicolas
46 Avenue de la Bourdonnais
75007 Paris, France

I gotta say. Maybe the Missus has a point about staying in the 7th…….

IMG_7621

Paris – Pere Lachaise Cemetery, Sadaharu Aoki, and Dinner at Café Constant

We awoke on our first full day back in Paris ready to go. We had the remnants of our previous evening's shopping and then headed off. The Missus wanted to visit Pere Lachaise Cemetery, mainly because She had read about it in various guidebooks. I knew of the cemetery because of one specific gravesite. I thought this would be kind of neat, so I was all for it. We caught the metro and got off at the Pere Lachaise stop.

IMG_7476

IMG_7479

Walking the winding paths, we were taken in and overwhelmed. It was at the same time haunting and yet beautiful. Each grave and tomb told a different story.

IMG_7481
IMG_7481

And while I had a mental list of all the famous laid to rest here; Chopin, Oscar Wilde, Gertrude Stein, Edith Piaf, we were so taken in by "la cite des morts" (the city of the dead), that in the end, I really only tried to find the final resting place of one American.

IMG_7484

I sent a text to one of the folks whom I knew would understand, CC.

And still there were a few interesting resting….and perhaps "non-resting" (for now) that caught our attention.

I noticed this grave had metro tickets lying on it.

IMG_7491

So I felt compelled to add mine to the pile.

IMG_7492

The Missus looked at me and said; "why are you doing this, you have no idea who this person is." To which I replied "this is Gilbert Morard former head of SNCF, the official train company of France!". Google to the rescue again!

We found this tomb to be kind of freaky.

IMG_7490

A camera stares back at you…….. When we got back to the states I found that the person this is meant for, André Chabot is still alive. This space is reserved for André Chabot a photographer who specializes in "funeral art". Go figure….

That's not to say there aren't any tombs that aren't plain creepy and scary.

IMG_7483
IMG_7483 Galeries Laf  In the end, while we really enjoyed Pere Lachaise, I don't think we saw everything we wanted to. We'll definitely be back to this fascinating "la cite des morts" again.

We decided to walk back to the 7th (of course), taking the long way.

We soon passed the flagship store of Galeries Lafayette and the Missus was totally entranced by the Christmas displays. From the huge Christmas Tree several stories high, with balloons slowly rising up and down as the tree slowly spins. We linked to several videos we took in our Christmas post.

IMG_7506

If that doesn't stir the inner child in you; the window displays along Boulevard Haussman will.

IMG_2579

It's mesmerizing and so wonderful. And less you think there's no rhyme or reason to it….well, every year, the display tells a story. On this Christmas season, it was a love story, of a pigeon named Pierre and a dove named Coco. They run into each other in Fairground and the window displays tell that story…..

IMG_2757

Who doesn't love a Christmas romance? We ended up stopping by Galeries Lafayette several times. And without fail, the Missus just had to go in and view the trees and spend about 20-30 minutes staring at the window scenes.

As we got close to our apartment, we stopped at the Rue Saint-Dominique location of Sadaharu Aoki.

IMG_7600

Sadaharu Aoki is well known for blending Japanese flavors into traditional French desserts.

IMG_7508
IMG_7508 IMG_7601So, of the Missus had to add to Her growing dessert collection. She bought a dozen bonbons and really enjoyed them.

Sadaharu Aoki
103 Rue Saint-Dominique
75007 Paris, France

**** Cafe Constant has closed

We wanted a place that was casual and low stress for dinner. The Missus had enjoyed our dinner at Christian Constant's Les Cocottes on our previous visit to Paris. So why not complete the set and visit his no reservation, open all day, Café Constant.

IMG_7531

Man, this place was packed…….a combination of Parisians and tourists.

IMG_2567

The service was quite genial and while it didn't look like there was room for us….they made some….under the stairwell. Which we got a kick out of…..

IMG_2569

To tell you how laid back this place is….well, the couple next to us had their Lab under their table. He'd poke his head out once in a while hoping for a hand-out!

We decided to just go for the 36 Euro 3 course meal….something easy, not much thinking involved.

The Missus started with the Tartare de saumon, huîtres et bar au gingembre – Tartare of oysters, seabass and salmon seasoned with ginger and lemon, which was surprisingly good and refreshing.

IMG_7517

Not too heavy handed on the ginger; very tender salmon and seabass, this was much better than I expected.

I had really enjoyed the rustic Country-style Pate at Les Cocottes and they had the same one here on the menu.

IMG_7518

Nice earthy flavors, not overly rich, just as I remembered.

As Her main the Missus had the Parmentier de cuisse de canard croisé au vin rouge, pommes gaufrettes - Potato Parmentier with duck in red wine sauce and potato gaufrettes.

IMG_7523

Again, done by the book and done well. Nice potatoes; the sauce wasn't overly salty or winey, the duck toothsome, but not tough, with a nice earthy-gamy flavor.

I had the Stewed Beef Cheeks – Joues de boeuf.

IMG_7524

The beef cheeks were very beefy, tender, and the potatoes and carrots were nicely stewed; not mushy, not hard. The stew itself needed a bit of help with some salt and pepper though. The texture of the stew was good as it nicely coated one's tongue.

The Missus got Her first Rum Baba, which She immediately took to.

IMG_7527

Too sweet for me….but She loved it.

I had a forgettable cheese plate……

IMG_7528

In the end, the service was good, the food, while not amazing was comforting, the price not bad….for Paris. Like Les Cocottes…no muss, no fuss, no complaints.

Sometimes you want a by-the-book dependable meal and this did the trick……

Café Constant
139 rue Saint-Dominique
75007 Paris, France

It was time to get some rest……tomorrow was going to be a shopping day for the Missus!

Clearing Out the Memory Card – Happy Hour at Et Voila! and Tribute Pizza

Just a quick post with mostly photos of two of our favorite Happy Hour places.

Et Voila!:

You could say Et Voila is the Missus's favorite little restaurant. We've gotten into the habit of having happy hour here just about every other week.

First off; the Huckleberry Bourbon is half price ($7) during HH.

Et Voila HH 01

And we've found our "happy rotation" of three dishes. They fry things really well here and that Pork Terrine reminds us of France.

Et Voila HH 02

Et Voila HH 03

Et Voila HH 04

Which makes for a nice light dinner for us.

We've tried a bunch of other items on the Happy Hour; but we've settled on those three.

IMG_6842

IMG_8509

Et Voilà!
3015 Adams Ave
San Diego, CA 92116
Happy Hour:
Sun – Fri 430pm – 7pm
Saturday 430pm – 6pm

Tribute Pizza:

Another favorite of the Missus. The drill here is to get the Biancoverde with Pepperoni during HH; it's under ten bucks.

Trib COMC 04

And heck; the Meat, Cheese, and Veg board, always with the three veggies, and usually two cheese, unless there's something we like with regards to charcuterie.

Trib COMC 02
Trib COMC 02

It's served with the Foccacia of the day….some of which are really great.

Trib COMC 03

So, even though I want that Sea Salt Focaccia with 'Nduja, there's just no way I can put that away.

Tribute Pizza
3077 N Park Way
San Diego, CA 92104
Happy Hour:
Tues – Fri 4pm – 6pm

Happy New Year

Happy New Year!

Much like I've done every year since December 31st, 2005, I started my day with a visit to Nijiya, Marukai, and Mitsuwa.

I think I've noted that compared to those early years, the variety available has gone down significantly. Probably because of preordering and changing of tastes.

This year, Mitsuwa seemed to have the better "stuffs".

IMG_2945

They definitely won out in the protein category……

IMG_2949

I did enjoy the "instruction signs" Nijiya put out for items like kazunoko….just in case, you know….you get the urge to try it out.

IMG_8238

IMG_8239

IMG_8241

We enjoyed going out for New Year dinner last year. So I made reservations for an early dinner at Et Voila. Man, we got in at 5pm and there were already folks eating! I'd never seen the place this busy this early……

IMG_8246

IMG_8245

IMG_8250

IMG_8253

IMG_8256

IMG_8257

IMG_8260

IMG_8262

Et Voilà! IMG_2955
3015 Adams Ave
San Diego, CA 92116

We then decided to walk on down 30th street and had a nightcap at Toronado.

Toronado
4026 30th St
San Diego, CA 92104

Sorry to say I'm not one for top ten lists….when it comes to meals and such I guess I'm always looking to the "next one". I'm often, like I'm doing right now, starting to plan three trips ahead.

I am however, somewhat sentimental. And having lost both an amazing companion and a good friend and contributor to this blog this year has been hard. It's not something you easily turn the page on.

With that in mind, I'm hoping the upcoming year will help to repair out those torn pages pages….the creases will remain for sure, but I'll be able to read them, reflect, and smile at the memories.

As the year comes to a close, everyone here at mmm-yoso would like to thank you for dropping by and extend best wishes for 2017!

Where in the World Are We – Part Trois

As you read this, we should be home and dry.

The last part of our trip was enjoying the Missus's favorite city.

IMG_7471

And while we did visit some of our favorite areas, we decided to really eschew the Museum visits this time around and visit some of the other neighborhoods.

IMG_2577
IMG_2577
IMG_2577

Where we got to see a bit more……

IMG_2550

We also spent a few nights in the proclaimed "Capital of Christmas".

IMG_2669

Where we had a great time.

IMG_7715
IMG_7715

That featured what is claimed to be the largest Christmas Market in Europe. We sure had a great time.

And of course we ate very well.

IMG_7967
IMG_7967
IMG_7967
IMG_7967
IMG_7967

And even managed to get in some "comfort food" at the end of our trip.

IMG_2763

And of course, there are many photos of our four-legged friends. 

IMG_7876

So, let me regroup for a bit.

And thanks for stopping by!

Paris – The Louvre and Dinner at Sola

Our time in Paris was nearing end. But we had one last busy afternoon and evening set. First up, a late afternoon visit to the largest art museum in the world; The Louvre. If you've never visited Paris; do yourself a favor, get yourself Rick Steve's Paris Guidebook. While I'm not a big fan of the restaurant choices in his books; he has a whopping 20+ pages on the Louvre….more than I'll ever need to know. In order to really enjoy and not burn out during our trips, we always act like we'll return one day. In other words, we have the places and things we "need to see" and the rest, well, if we get there, it's gravy. Anyway, if you plan on visiting the Louvre, get your tickets online, strategize on beating the crowds, unless you enjoy the crowds. We used the Carrousel du Louvre, the underground shopping mall entrance and getting in was a breeze.

IMG_1836

Once in, there are still crowds of course…..some folks seem to have a look of desperation on their faces.

IMG_1839

We had kind of planned things out, the best we could, just as we did when we visited the Vatican.

We headed straight for the one thing the Missus wanted to see……you know, right?

IMG_1842

Well, the view is actually more like this…..

IMG_1840

And if you don't already know, the dimensions of the Mona Lisa is 2′ 6″ x 1′ 9″.

And then we were off; sort of as we took time to enjoy some of the many, many masterpieces in the museum.

IMG_1863

Like La Liberté guidant le people (Liberty Leading the People) painted by Delacroix.

Hmmm….where was Venus de Milo? Looks like Bacchus is pointing the way.

IMG_1846

Well, there she is!

IMG_1875

Such beautiful balance, eternally standing in "contrapposto"

Passing thru the museum, you could peer out the windows and see folks trying to capture their "forever moments".

IMG_1872

We enjoyed spending a few hours at the Louvre.

DSC_0278

And then taking some time to people (and canine) watch outside.

IMG_1899

The Seine makes quite a, well, scene at dusk.

IMG_1903

IMG_1911

And night seemed to fall very quickly.

IMG_1914

We returned to our room and freshened up. We still gad some time to kill before dinner. What to do? Well, hit a café of course. The Missus and I had a nice cup of coffee and relaxed before dinner. When I went downstairs to the restroom, this sign cracked me up.

IMG_1915

Our dinner destination was just a few blocks away. The second reservation I made for this trip was at a one Michelin Starred restaurant named Sola. I was especially intrigued by the "Franco – Japanese" cuisine put out by Chef Hiroki Yoshitake. The restaurant is quite discreet.

IMG_1916

Only a tasting menu is offered, for a very reasonable 95 Euros. Funny, we both took the drink pairing, which ended up being way too much for us…..which also cost 95 Euros!

Half the customers were actually Japanese and many of the Servers were also Japanese. It was an interesting crowd.

IMG_1917

The Amuse was a wonderful, savory-mildly sweet crab in dashi aspic over a thin, light, chawan mushi like egg custard.

IMG_1922

Along with an amazing Foie Gras and Miso filled Wafer, touched with the light sweetness of Sake and Maple Syrup.

IMG_1926

The Missus really loved the Sparkling Sake that was served with the foie gras.

IMG_1918

There was olive oil and bread…..but I really don't remember much about it.

IMG_1927

IMG_1928

I totally failed on the next dish, as I forgot to take a photo of the Beef Tartare, Beet, and Stratatelli cheese. An amazing range of bright flavors. There was a hint of wasabi detected.

IMG_1929

The next item might have been our favorite. Amazingly tender sea beam, topped with thinly sliced, slight pungent and sweet onion, on thin slices of daikon and smoky eggplant.

IMG_1930

Let's not disregard the light drizzle of buttery-grassy olive oil. Such a wonderful dish.

 The squid in the next dish was so amazingly tender and the baby leek was almost sweet.

IMG_1933

I was told that the slightly tangy and eggy sauce was based on kimizu, the Japanese egg and rice vinegar dressing, which did well in this dish.

For me; the star of the Parmesan Crusted Shrimp dish was the Chanterelle Risotto, which was just perfect. The earthy flavors went amazingly well with the shrimp emulsion.

IMG_1936

By now we'd had Sparkling Sake, Champagne, and two different sake served in wine glasses. The second of which was matched with shrimp.

Next up was a Chardonnay from Muersault paired with Sea bass and scallop with cabbage and cabbage cream with shiso-celery cream.

IMG_1941

Complex, but very clear flavors all around.

We were brought a granite to clear our palates.

IMG_1947

We could tell that the last main course was something a bit more robust as a red from Beaune was poured.

IMG_1942

This was matched with Wild duck breast with jus and sansho pepper sauce and endive and carrot.

IMG_1944

Amazing. That duck was cooked perfectly and was so very tender! The bitterness of the endive helped to balance out the flavors.

And then the desserts which the Missus loved.

IMG_1949

IMG_1951

IMG_1952

IMG_1953

IMG_1954

There was a sensibility and a certain combination of flavors that just hit all the right buttons for us. A combination of Japanese and French technique and flavors just seemed to work in harmony.

This is a place we'll return to; though we'll share a single beverage tasting the next time.

Sola is currently closed because of a fire, but we're hoping they reopen soon.

Sola
12 Rue de l'Hôtel Colbert
75005 Paris, France

After such a meal (and all the drinks) , we slept soundly thru the night. We awoke for breakfast and then our transfer to Orly. We were flying Business, so we were able to relax in the rather uncrowded lounge.

IMG_1955

Soon enough, we heard the call for our flight.

Next stop; Reykjavik!

Thanks for reading!
 

Le Bistro de Louisa (Rancho Bernardo)

Le Bistro de Louisa has closed.  It will be missed. 

mmm-yoso!!! is blogging about food again today. It's Cathy, not Kirk, with this post.  

In the space occupied by Bernard'O for 24 years, Le Bistro de Louisa opened in April 2016.  'French casual' dining, opposed to 'fine dining' is the theme to this restaurant. 

IMG_8111IMG_8103IMG_8086 Located in a strip mall anchored by an Albertsons in the mid-County area of Rancho Bernardo, the eclectic interior has an interesting vibe with added music for ambiance.  It's so nice not to see a television when enjoying a meal. IMG_8088  The French onion soup ($8) has a lamb based broth; probably because lamb chops are on the menu (at the bottom of this post) as both a "Starter" and a "main". It is wonderfully unique in flavor and combined with the melted cheese, bread and mild onions; a filling appetizer. IMG_8097IMG_8101 The "Planche de Fromages' ($10), an assortment of cheeses (three hard, two soft) served with crisp and (soft, warm,fresh, wonderful) bread, also an appetizer, completed my wonderful meal.  That far right cheese is breaded and fried Camembert with honey and can be ordered as an appetizer. Those 'dots' at the bottom of the plate are a slight smokey-tart-sweet aged balsamic. 

IMG_8096 The fish and chips plate ($15) is the best we've ever had.  The perfect 'frites' were addictive.  The breaded then fried cod was delicate in flavor, perfectly fried and quite hearty in size.  

As you can see from the below menu, there is Sunday brunch here and we will be trying it.  A wonderful find.

Le Bistro de Louisa 12463 Rancho Bernardo Road (At Pomerado Road) San Diego 92128 Tues-Fri 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Sat-8 a.m.-9 p.m., Sun 8 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Closed Monday

IMG_8105 IMG_8106