Mexico City – Dinner at Temporal

After a fun, but quite busy day enjoying Mexico City; I thought we'd have a nice dinner fairly close to where we were staying. I'd heard good things about Temporal and the modern, seasonal cuisine that was being served and thought it would be a nice dinner for our last night in CDMX. I made dinner reservations for the fairly early (in Mexico City) time of 7pm. The bar was doing some good business but we were seated in the restaurant upstairs which was quiet.

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As we found the norm in CDMX; service was excellent, gracious, efficient, warm……

And of course we started with a Cocktail. I had what is named Suerte de Dragon….the "Lucky Dragon"!

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Man, this combo of Mezcal, Celery Salt, Lime, Beer, and some really sneaky chili was so good! Not overly sweet, refreshing, smoky-savory, all the things I like in a cocktail. I had two! The Missus really enjoyed Her Old Fashion with Cardamom.

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The bread served was wonderful; especially with the salsa verde which had perfect acidity.

The Marinated Octopus Tacos (160 $MX about $8.50/US) were solid.

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We didn't care much for the tortillas which were strangely brittle; the rub used on the adequately tender octopus was excellent, nice smoky-lightly spiced-good acidity. What's up with the avocados in Mexico? They always seem to be perfectly creamy, mildly sweet….. The scallion-onion relish really went well adding a bit of mildly sweet pungency and along with the avocado added some really great textural contrast.

The Gulf Crab Sopes (140 $MX – about $7.50/US) were the highlight of the meal.

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The crab cakes were moist, tender, full of sweet-savory-briney crab. The sopes added a nice nutty-maiz to the dish. The "raw green salsa" was a perfect foil as was the creamy-milky goat cheese. Just a wonderful dish from start to finish.

The Roasted Cauliflower (130 $ MX – about $7/US) was interesting.

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It had a definite salty-savoriness to it. I later found out it was from the Anchovy Cream.

The Cilantro Soup (140 $MX – about $7.50/US) was very smooth and creamy.

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Mildly pungent, sweet garlic tones, and perhaps a bit too much citrus in this for our taste.

The Missus and I shared one main; the Braised Shoulder of Lamb (290 $MX – approx. $15.50/US).

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Super tender, deliciously gamey; that "flavor of the pasture" coming thru; nicely seasoned, the jus had a bit of a "kick" to it. The cauliflower puree was nice and creamy.

We had fun watching the street below us during our meal. The weather here in CDMX during our stay (early July) was sunny and warm during the day; with folks going about their business.

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Then just like on our first night, the skies would open up, we'd be treated with thunder, lightning, with rain coming down in buckets.

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Which lasted about 20 minutes….then all was clear. IMG_8124

We really enjoyed our meal at Temporal; like I mentioned earlier, the service was excellent, the prices reasonable, and the food quite good.

Restaurante Temporal
Saltillo 1, Hipódromo, Cuauhtémoc
06140 CDMX, Mexico

Mexico City – Centro Histórico and Cafe de Tacuba

After taking in the wonderful view from Don Porfirio Caffe from the 8th Floor of Sears, we headed to where Avenida Juárez becomes pedestrian only Avenida Francisco I. Madero. There's quite a bit to see here; along with crowds to match. We stopped by the Convent of San Francisco to take a peek…..

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DSC00201 IMG_1914This church with a very ornate façade, resides down a sunken courtyard and is all that remains of what was once a large complex that covered 8 acres in the area. This was part of what was the headquarters of the "12 Apostles of Mexico" who were tasked with converting the residents of New Spain to Christianity. The complex was built on the site of Moctezuma II’s Zoo. Yes, he had zoo!

The altars are quite ornate and quite stunning.

IMG_1917 DSC00210On the way to the Zócalo, the Missus wanted to stop at Dulcería de Celaya a famous sweet shop which was established in 1874. Man, this place was quite popular. The Missus bought a box of various confections to bring back to the US. In what was a fairly humorous moment, the box was opened at the airport in Mexico City by one of the security personnel and each piece was brought out and the guy actually sniffed it! He kept saying "no bueno….no bueno!!" Until one of the senior officers came by and told him to put it all back in the box!

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After we arrived home, the Missus tasted the sweets and really didn't care for them…..so I kidded Her by saying "no bueno….no bueno!"

Dulcería de Celaya
Avenida Cinco de Mayo 39
06000 Ciudad de México
Mexico City

A few blocks down was the Zócalo (Plaza de la Constitución), the city's main square. In fact, this area has been the heart of the city since the time of the Aztecs.

The impressive Cathedral lines the north side of the square.

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We had fully intended on exploring the area around the square and Centro Historical.

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But came across an very popular and colorful exhibition….which seemed more like a festival dedicated to Frida Kahlo.

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DSC00231 IMG_8073This celebration was called The Colors of Frida and it was indeed quite colorful. It was held to celebrate the famous artist's 112th birthday. And we lucked out to have been able to see this.

The most powerful scene is that of Frida dressed in colorful attire lying in bed. Having contracted polio at the age of six, she spent 9 months in bed. In 1925 she was in a terrible accident; she was "impailed by a steel handrail through the hip" and also fracture three vertebrae. It was during this time that Frida stared painting. she would have health problems for the rest of her life.  In 1953 Frida had her first solo exhibition in Mexico City, but was in bad health. She famously attended the ceremony lying in a bed set-up for her in the gallery.

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There were of course, the Conchero Dancers performing.

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And those having Limpias (spiritual cleansing) performed on them.

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It's also a great place to people, and pooch watch as well.

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Nearby is the Museo de Templo Mayor, which was the temple of the people who inhabited Tenochtitlan. The ruins were quite stunning; though we were in need of a break by this time….we'll visit the next time we're in the area.

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Plus, it was starting to get even more crowded.

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We did decide to duck into the Cathedral Metropolitana for a quick look.

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The Missus and I found the Pendulum inside the Cathedral quite fascinating.

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Apparently it is in place to check on seismic movement.

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The Missus and I needed a break and something light and small to eat. I'd read about a restaurant that had quite a history named Café de Tacuba.

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Opened in 1912; this wonderful slice of history not only feeds the body; but the charming layout and décor feeds the soul as well.

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Not feeling especially hungry; the Missus and I got our caffeine fix and ordered the Nopales….something which the Missus could not get enough of it seems….

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IMG_1946 IMG_1944The chips were crisp, the nopales decent, but nothing special, the avocado….like all we had in CDMX was creamy and wonderful. The staff was professional and accommodating. And the décor was wonderful. This was a nice little break for us.

Café de Tacuba
Calle de Tacuba 28
06010 Ciudad de México
Mexico City

We walked up Calle de Tacuba past the Museo Nacional de Arte (the National Art Museum).

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That statue in front of the structure is of Charles IV of Spain by Manuel Tolsá; a Spanish born Sculptor and Architect.

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Who is much revered for the prodigious amount of work he contributed to New Spain. In fact, the square the statue is on is named after him.

This eye catching garden is named the Garden of the Triple Alliance.

IMG_1950 IMG_1951So, we could have kept on going….there is so much to see here if you desire.

For us; well, we'd done quite a bit of walking already on this day. We decided to Uber it back to our B&B and rest up for dinner……

Which turned out to be pretty good….that's coming up!

Thanks for stopping by!

Mexico City – Morning Coffee at Delirio Mónica Patiño, Breakfast at Los Tamales de la Roma, Walking Paseo de la Reforma, and Caffeine with a View at Don Porfirio Caffe

Our second full day in CDMX was another; surprise, fairly walking intense day. The morning in Condesa was quite lovely.

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On this day, the Missus wanted to check out Centro Histórico….getting there by foot of course. So I devised a plan…we'd start in Roma, have a breakfast of sorts, then head down Paseo de la Reforma, Alameda Central, before arriving in the Historical Center of Mexico City.

So we headed out, past Parque España, taking a right onto Álvaro Obregón, crossing Insurgentes Sur we came upon a place I had to have a bit of caffeine; a gourmet shop owned by Chef and Television Personality Monica Patiño, named Delirio. I had kept the option open to grab something from this shop, but the Missus just wasn't inspired, so we just sat outside had a nice cup of coffee.

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Delirio Mónica Patiño
Monterrey 116
Roma Norte, 06700 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

So, for a bite to eat, I went with plan B. The Missus really wanted to have some tamales during this trip, so two blocks away we took a left and arrived at one of the many places I had on my "list". A little shop named Los Tamales de la Roma.

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We were greeted by the nicest, sweetest, young man, and we had a seat outside….it was such a nice morning!

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When the young man brought over the menus, he explained that they did "two style of tamales…..the typical maiz, and those that use plantanos", he told us to please ask any questions we have; "I want you to have the best time possible"! My goodness…… So we had him recommend something…..after chatting with the Missus a bit, he recommended the "Ratatouille", which he said was done in Plantain leaves and had good vegetables and is so healthy. I ordered the Chicharron en Salsa Verde.

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IMG_1876 IMG_1880The tamal de chicharron was delicious, porky, great corn flavor, a hint of smokiness, nice tangy acidity from the salsa verde.

The Ratatouille was less so for us; fairly bland, in need of more flavor….but very moist.

You know, based on the service, it's very hard to complain about 2 tamales and bottled water that came out to less than $3/US!

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This was more than enough for a light breakfast.

Los Tamales de la Roma
Jalapa 99
Roma Norte, 06700 Ciudad de Mexico, CDMX, Mexico

The Missus really wants to check out Tamales Doña Emi next we visit.

From Jalapa, it was pretty much a straight shot to Glorieta Insurgentes, right before the roundabout, we saw a nice church and decided to duck in for a quick look. This was Parroquia de la Sagrada Familia (Parish of Sagrada Familia).

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A few blocks later we were standing on the wide and bright Paseo de la Reforma, staring at the Angel of Independence.

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This iconic landmark was built to commemorate Mexico's independence from Spain and was completed in time to celebrate Mexico's 100th anniversary of it's independence in 1910. One interesting fact about the structure is that it contains a mausoleum at its base where heroes of the fight for independence are interred, including Leona Vicario.

The avenue is wide and there's much to see in terms of art pieces; like the kind of whimsical, slightly strange Cocodrilo by artist Leonora Carrington.

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More on Cocodrilo here.

To the more serious and dignified, like the Monumento a Cuauhtémoc.

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And of course, people (and pooch) watch.

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That's El Caballito above.

At this point, we took a right turn at the fountain…..

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Onto Avenida Juarez and headed to Alameda Central, which was established in 1592; making it the oldest park in the Americas.

We enjoyed the lovely paths…..

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Statues….

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And fountains., like the "Fountain of Virgin".

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There was of course, way more than one could see while walking through the area.

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There's even a Barrio Chino on Dolores Street.

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The most popular attraction in the area is undoubtedly the Palacio de Bellas Artes (Palace of Fine Arts) with its distinctive dome.

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And, the Missus had read that if you'd like to get a really great view of the Palacio de Bellas Artes, you can get it from the Sears across the street.

Well, actually from the Don Porfirio Café on the 8th floor of Sears. You'll need to first wait behind a rope if no seat are available…we had no problem since it was rather early and there were seats with great views. And of course, you need to order some coffee, tea, or other beverage as well.

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But that view…….well, we think it's worth it.

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For at least once…….

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Don't you think?

Don Porfirio Caffe
Avenida Juarez 14 (On the 8th Floor of Sears)
Mexico City, Mexico

On our way down the elevator, and older gentleman, who I believe is perhaps one of the Sears managers smiled and said "Buenos Dias"….then asked us where we were from. We told him "San Diego"; and he told us "it is a beautiful city…..there is Sea World. Welcome to our city….it is pretty beautiful too, no?"

Yes, it is quite beautiful too……

Thanks for stopping by!

 

El Huevo Estrellado (Chula Vista)

Here's another mmm-yoso!!! post about food, written by Cathy while Kirk and His Missus are enjoying a little vacation elsewhere. 

As The Mister and I tend to do, driving and stopping and not researching ahead of time lead us to this lovely Taco Shop down the street from the bakery where we ordered our Rosca de Reyes for 2020 (photo of the Rosca at the bottom of this post).1E90B0AA-2456-4C35-8738-FE72A0BBCDA8 DA334E3A-8F76-47AE-AD3F-27D7F1FAA5FC We were at the corner of Broadway and Naples and stopped at the signal light, saw the signage and turned into the parking lot.
6C61F291-5F66-466C-B0D1-13A75D3AE4D9 Stepping inside the storefront at the far end, we noticed a second room of tables was available (the 'addition' is new and can accommodate about 30 people) and were told to 'sit anywhere'.  A two sided menu was brought over.D0414DA5-7224-42ED-8EBE-F4C3A1672A03D0414DA5-7224-42ED-8EBE-F4C3A1672A03
29DB9690-5781-489E-898D-0DC07D9A0589Fresh chips and a good, house made, medium heat salsa was also brought out.
1E90B0AA-2456-4C35-8738-FE72A0BBCDA8 The Mister immediately honed in on #23, Chile Relleño with shrimp on top ($14.50). (We asked and the menu is served all day).  A wonderful Oaxaca cheese filled mild poblano, dipped in egg white then fried is under the plump, large shrimp and topped with a wonderful garlic-y green salsa. Every bite of this plate was wonderful.
 336F5A65-A8D8-46DE-9A18-DCCE9295D101 Since the name of this Taco Shop has 'huevos' in it, I felt the need to try an egg/breakfast dish.  Chilaquiles ($10.99) just sounded right.  There was an option of red, green or mole sauce with the chips and I opted for the red because The Mister had ordered green sauce.  

This was a "proper" plate of chilaquiles- tortillas fried then placed in the sauce (not tortilla chips, which are thin and already fried) with the eggs on the side.  So very good.  The beans and rice were just so much better here than elsewhere.  

We are already planning what we want to order on our next visit. Mary and Jake were here in 2017!

El Huevo Estrellado  1096 Broadway (at Naples) Chula Vista 91911 (619)498-1286 Open Daily 7:30 a.m.-9 p.m.

Our Rosca for 2020 was purchased at Sweet bakery Mexico Lindo 66745384-D8E3-495E-BE0F-A18D13A4F661
66745384-D8E3-495E-BE0F-A18D13A4F661 The Rosca was filled with a wonderful custard/cream and much more interesting to eat this while taking down the Christmas decor on the 12th Night following the holiday.

Sweet Bakery Mexico Lindo 212 Broadway (at E Street) Chula Vista 91911 Open Sun-Thurs 10 a.m.-8 p.m., Fri-Sat 8-8 

Pancho’s Mexican Restaurant (El Cajon)

mmm-yoso!!!, a food blog.  Cathy is writing today.

Heading East on Fletcher Parkway, just across the street from Barbecue Pit (two blocks same side of the street from Beef 'n Bun,

F3F9C929-DA87-4EBD-8929-E118D4092565 We always see this signage and continue on our way.  We finally stopped the other day.  Pancho's has been here since 2004. It is family owned and operated.  
F3F9C929-DA87-4EBD-8929-E118D4092565 Driving by, we never noticed the front door or facade.
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F3F9C929-DA87-4EBD-8929-E118D4092565 Step inside and the decor is amazing. There is a Bar area and  various seating areas.
F3F9C929-DA87-4EBD-8929-E118D4092565 3180D37F-698C-4CDE-A455-63B118C1AA51 Chips, fresh and tasty salsa, the Lunch as well as a Regular Menu are brought to the table.  

F3F9C929-DA87-4EBD-8929-E118D4092565Tostada Compuesta- with carnitas- was my choice ($6.99).  A very large, fresh made fried flour tortilla on the bottom, topped with excellent refried beans, a lot of really flavorful, moist and well made pork, lettuce, tomato, two cheeses and avocado slices.  Really a filling meal.  
F3F9C929-DA87-4EBD-8929-E118D4092565 The Mister tried the flauta lunch ($6.99) which was also made with a fresh flour tortilla wrapped around flavorful shredded chicken (stewed chicken with onion and bell peppers, drained so it wasn't 'soupy') which was properly fried and cut in half.  The side of rice was well made-flavorful on its own and the salad came with ranch dressing.  Again, a nice, filling meal.   

Really good food.  We should've stopped in sooner.  Will be back and become one of the 'regulars'; there were many. 

D6FEE6E7-B99E-4913-8BBC-F049981BB146 There is brunch, which includes either three glasses of champagne or one margarita.

Pancho's Mexican Restaurant 2257 Fletcher Parkway El Cajon, CA 92020 (619) 460-4202 Open Mon-Sat 11:30-9, Sun 9-8 Website

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Clearing Out the Memory Card – Revisits to Bistro Na’s (Temple City), Tribute Pizza, and is La Catrina Closed for Good?

Wow, several of my favorite food groups in one post….after all the really wordy posts recently, I thought I'd give you all a break.

Bistro Na's (Temple City):

Yes, again….the Missus was wondering how getting a Michelin Star would affect Bistro Na's. Well, as far as our lunch was concerned; the crowds are larger now, but the service was still top notch.

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And our favorites are still our favorites.

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I enjoyed the Zui Ji (Drunken Chicken), which was on the mild side in terms of flavor but super tender and moist.

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The Missus enjoyed the stir fried cauliflower.

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But we'll pass on the Chili Beef with Tofu in the future.

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Decent numbingness, but not much else; strangely not spicy and rather plain and bland in spite of looks.

As you can tell that we've done multiple visits over the last couple of months, this place is a favorite of the Missus.

Bistro Na's
9055 Las Tunas Drive
Temple City, CA 91780

Tribute Pizza:

It's been a while since we last visited and our planned dinner destination was closed (see below). So we walked over. It was still Happy Hour so we got two pizzas…..seven bucks each during HH!

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This was more food than we needed and had leftovers. The pizzas were better than we remembered; simple but perfectly prepared. The Missus also enjoyed a sangria….. We gotta drop by more often.

Tribute Pizza
3077 N Park Way
San Diego, CA 92104
Happy Hour:
Tues – Fri 4pm – 6pm

Is La Catrina Closed?:

**** La Catrina has closed

The reason we went to Tribute was because our intended destination; La Catrina was closed; with this sign posted on the door.

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Strange, because we'd just gone the previous week and everything was just fine. And the Missus loved the Tacos De Flor De Jamaica; jicama, mushroom, and eggplant tacos.

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The Carnitas and Octopus Cazuela was a good as always.

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I did express concern about this place in my previous post and it doesn't look good.

I hope I'm wrong…..

La Catrina Tapas & Cantina
3139 University Ave
San Diego, CA 92104

Las Pinches Tortas (El Cajon)

Thanks for stopping by to read mmm-yoso!!!, a food blog. Kirk is still busy at work and Cathy is sharing another food adventure.

For the most part, The Mister and I don't plan any of our food stops unless a gift card is involved.  On this day, we were (once again) driving about aimlessly, took the 2nd Street exit from the 8, continued South until 2nd turned into Jamacha (at Main) and continued for a few more blocks.  A bunch of cars were stuck at the signal light at Washington and we were backed up quite a bit. Looking West, both The Mister and I noticed this signage at the same time.  I pulled into the Laundromat anchored mall. IMG_9765 Fullsizeoutput_d46This is what it looks like from Jamacha; a large parking lot.

It turns out this family owned and run restaurant opened in June.  I can sort of see how we missed it.  I can also say we will be eating here often.  
IMG_9765 We walked in, grabbed a menu (thumbnails at the bottom of this post) and a seat before ordering. The kitchen area has an open window, the self-seating area is quite large. 
IMG_9765You order and pay straight ahead when walking in; I only noticed the signage at the order counter after we had decided what we wanted and had to turn around to discuss changing our initial choices.  Finally, I ordered, paid, got our beverages and looked at the condiment area.  The food is brought out to your table. 
IMG_9765 The Lunch Special of 1/2 torta and soup ($9.95).  This was a smart decision, because apparently the full size torta is huge.  This is a 1/2 size ahogada (drowned) torta. The bread is from Guadalajara.  The meat is (wonderful flavored meaty and crisped) carnitas.  There's a smear of flavorful black beans. The sauce, made with chile de arbol and tomatoes, is spicy and made here.  

All of the salsas are made here.  There are many salsas on the condiment bar and for each food item.   
IMG_9765The soup is a 'proper' tortilla soup.  **No chicken pieces** in it; just a good flavored chicken broth with garlic, onion, tomatoes, chile de arbol (so, it's spicy).  It's thickened with tortillas and topped with fried strips of tortilla, cheese and sour cream.  Hearty. 
IMG_9765 The counter also had a photo of a special of Chile en Nogada ($14.95).  This item is usually prepared around Mexican Independence Day (September 16), (the dish is meant to be the colors of the flag of Mexico, and the red pomegranates need to be in season).  It's a poblano chili, stuffed with picadillo and topped with a walnut based white sauce and pomegranates.  Sweet, savory, a bit salty, crunchy, soft…everything that describes a great melding of flavors and texture in each bite.
IMG_9765 59113266200__1E84B13B-C951-4664-AAC7-CE2FE6C4AEDA Chile en Nogada is meant to be served at room temperature.  It was the best version I've had so far in my short life.

There are so many sauces, so many different torta breads, a great variety.  Despite the name (I know it's dirty), Las Pinches is sure to be part of our 'regular rotation'. Unexpectedly a great find.

Las Pinches Tortas 558 Jamacha Road El Cajon 92019 (619)593-0576 Open Mon-Fri 10-9, Sat 9-9, Sun 9-8

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Ol’ Rodeo’s Market and The Yogurt Mill- Lunch and dessert in El Cajon (Bostonia)

Thanks for stopping by to read about food here on mmm-yoso!!! today.  Kirk is enjoying the weekend and Cathy is writing.  

El Cajon has some interesting, local places which have withstood the test of time. I haven't written or even photographed some of my 'little secrets' in over ten years of blogging and finally have gotten around to it.  

Located at the South East corner of Broadway at Mollison, this small market is known for its meats, fresh tortillas and small kitchen, located just to the right when you walk in.Fullsizeoutput_cd3
Fullsizeoutput_cd3 The menu is uncomplicated.  Everything is fresh and prepared to order, by taking the meats straight from the sales counter over to the kitchen area.  There are a few (5) tables in the center of the store (which has a small Produce area, wall of refrigerated beverages, wall of refrigerated staples and one (two sided) set of shelves). 

IMG_9066IMG_9066IMG_9066IMG_9066These photos were all taken from my seat at the table.  Ol' Rodeo's is small.  
Fullsizeoutput_cd3 Soon enough, our 'Combination Plate' ($6.99) order of birria (choice of goat or beef; this is goat) was brought over (also, four freshly warmed tortillas, not pictured). This flavorful, rich, spicy stew hits all the taste points.  IMG_9070The obligatory leftover photo; you can see bay leaf and some bones and gristle.  This large bowl of stew had close to a pound of meat in it. The rice and beans here are very good in addition to the fresh corn tortillas.
Fullsizeoutput_cd3 We also ordered an adobada taco ($2.49), so we had something to eat while the other person was enjoying the birria.  As mentioned, the meat for grilling was pulled from the meat counter (where it is $3.99/lb).  The pork pieces, marinated in red chile sauce with vinegar and oregano was so fresh and flavorful.  I was asked if I wanted avocado or guacamole on top.  No extra charge. 

Superior quality food, wonderful people working here (it's a Mom and Pop place).  Known for its carne asada, which will be a separate post.  

Ol' Rodeo's Meat Market 927 Broadway El Cajon 92021 (619) 401-7351 

Want dessert? Go out to the parking lot…

Fullsizeoutput_cd4This landmark building used to be a pizza place called "The Leaning Tower" (there were two other locations in San Diego; one is still partially standing (last photo) and the other, which anchored Clairmont Square, is gone).  This family run frozen yogurt business has existed for 41 years and this location was purchased when the Leaning Tower of Pizza went out of business, around 1988. 
Fullsizeoutput_cd4 IMG_9051 The menu changes a bit each day and there is always one dairy free and one sugar free option, as well as two or three low fat yogurts in addition to nonfat choices. There are plenty of topping choices, but we are purists. 
Fullsizeoutput_cd4 Tart Mango and Pomegranate Blueberry, Baby size ($3.60)- a lot of frozen yogurt to share (especially after that birria). Tart, well flavored, quality yogurt.

Yogurt Mill 935 Broadway El Cajon 92021 Open daily Mon-Thur 10-10, Fri-Sat 10-11 Sun 11-10

This is why you can walk from Ol' Rodeo to The Yogurt Mill…
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Mexico City – A Walk thru La Condesa and Colonia Roma, Dinner at Pasillo de Humo

After checking out the Museo Nacional de Antropologia and lunch at El Hidalguense followed by a short nap; we headed back out. The Missus wanted to check out more of La Condesa and Colonia Roma. So we headed out on Avenida Michoacán toward Parque Mexico. La Condesa is quite charming with tree lined streets, once upon a time this land was all owned by a Countess ("Condesa"); María Magdalena Dávalos de Bracamontes y Orozco. Parque Mexico is a wonderful park, circled by the street often called the "most beautiful in Mexico City" which circles the park. Once upon an time the street was once a horse race track.

It was quite relaxing watching kids having fun in Foro Lindbergh (Lindbergh Forum).

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While it was fairly warm and the sun shone quite brightly; the trees really helped to cool things down. There are quite a few historical houses built in the area and I should have taken more photos, but we were just enjoying the walk.

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We took a left up Avenida Mexico; past the very popular dessert stop Churrería El Moro and headed up Avenida Mexico; where came upon quiet Plaza Popocatepetl and its centerpiece, the art deco fountain.

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Things got drastically busy when we took the left turn from Calle Popocatepetl onto Avenida Yucatan, followed by another right onto super busy Álvaro Obregón. Crossing over the hectic cross street, Avenida de los Insurgentes we were now back in hip/hipster Colonia Roma. The Missus enjoyed window shopping and we dropped into a few shops that caught Her interest along the street. We even came across a Passage; which reminded us of those covered passages in Paris.

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After returning from our trip; I did some research and found that this place is quite well known; El Parian. You can read more about the history of this covered passage here.

We took a right turn down Orizaba, a street lined with restaurants and shops….

I loved the name of this one.

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And arrived at lovely Plaza Luis Cabrera; where we took a short break; drank some water we had purchased along the way.

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We saw young children trying to track down birds, women sitting and chatting, and some rather interesting "vignettes".

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After our break, we turned back around and headed up Orizaba until we came across lively Plaza Rio de Janeiro.

Where we watched parents and their children; of the four and two-legged kind,socializing.

Making Friends at Plaza Rio de Janeiro - Mexico City
Making Friends at Plaza Rio de Janeiro - Mexico City

We were charmed. When we thought about visiting CDMX, this was not the mental picture we had……we were really enjoying our time here.

Soon enough, we started feeling a bit hungry. It was time to head back and get some dinner. I hadn't made reservations for this evening, but had a place in mind that was fairly close to where we were staying.

On the second floor of Parian Condesa Food Hall is Pasillo de Humo, which served Oaxacan inspired cuisine. The restaurant itself is roomy and comfortable.

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And service was like we'd experienced earlier in the day; friendly and gracious….and they had this hand-truck contraption loaded with Mezcal! My lucky day.

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I requested something "fumar" (smoky) and the really friendly gentleman saw that I had the "Eye of the Tiger"…..literally…..

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The guy was quite playful……at the end of the meal, when I wanted another, he asked the Missus permission! You gotta love it!

The missus ordered a cocktail, the Oaxaquillo, Mezcal, Crème de Cacao, Licor 43, and Cardamom.

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This was so easy to drink, that the first words out of my mouth when I had a sip was; "abunai".

The appetizer we ordered was one of the three favorite items we had on this trip; the Memelitas de Papa de Cerdo (140 $MX – $7.25/US).

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Holy smokes….how do I love thee….let me count the ways…. Wonderful pork cheeks that had been fried; the exterior crisp, giving way to a tender, buttery, tongue coating, decadence. The flavor was full on porkiness, perfectly seasoned with a mild chile, salt, and pepper. The griddled masa cakes had a wonderful, savory "corniness". The pickled onions helped cut through the richness, as did the mild spicy – acidity of the tomato and chili paste on the memelitas.

I ordered the Molleja de Terna en Chichilo (239 $MXN – $12.50/US). Fried veal sweetbreads in a mole with Chochoyote, those masa dumplings that look like mushrooms.

DSC00149 DSC00153The mollejas were very mild in flavor, no tininess or metallic flavors. The texture was a bit more firm than I prefer. The mole was also very mild and not too sweet. I loved the pickled onions and all the veggies. The chayote was good and the shaved chile de agua was really good.

The Missus ordered the Pato en Mole Negro (293 $MXN – $15.30/US), basically duck breast in mole negro. The duck breast was very tender and the skin had great flavor.

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Mole Negro is pretty difficult to make well; this was a nice version, smoky – not overly sweet – mild spice. The Missus loved the plantains; especially the texture. For some reason the tamal siete cueros was our least favorite thing; it was a bit pasty and very bland.

This was a wonderful meal overall; I especially loved my dessert…..

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Cue up Survivor….heck, enough of these and I'd be hitting (not beating) the meat.

We really enjoyed our meal. Another place we have on our "list" to return to. I think we'll make a meal of apps next time……heck maybe two orders of those memelitas!

Pasillo de Humo
Av Nuevo León 107
06100 Cuauhtémoc, CDMX, Mexico

El Jardin Changes Course

**** El Jardin has closed

Sometimes I wait too damn long to do a follow-up post. Such is the case with El Jardin. I just found out via Eater San Diego, that El Jardin will shutter and reopen as a….gasp "Cantina"! This is somewhat sad news as we enjoyed some pretty good meals at El Jardin.

We had returned several times since those visits…..

El Jardin Rev 01
El Jardin Rev 01
El Jardin Rev 01
El Jardin Rev 01

And yes, that is the $28 "Sonora Dogo" a wagyu beef dog, with chorizo and pork belly….

While not everything was to our taste, the Missus really enjoyed certain dishes; like the Pozole Verde.

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And while the food was sometimes uneven and perhaps the service not what we'd say was at the level of the menu; still, it was warm and friendly, the food creative without going for a whole lot of glitz…..

From the Eater post; the chef is leaving, and El Jardin will reopen as a cantina…specializing in, wait for it….carne asada and Margaritas.

So, in spite of having a chef nominated for a James Beard award, making the Michelin Bib Gourmet list, and getting a positive review in the New York Times, El Jardin changes course.

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Cheers El Jardin! We'll miss you…..