Valle de Guadalupe – Olibaja Olive Oil, a “Return” to Vinícola Retorno, and Dinner at Salvia Blanca

As we passed vineyards on our drive to Vinos Las Nubes, the Missus and I noticed olive trees being used as windbreaks for the grapes. We asked Isaac if Valle produced olive oil and he mentioned several producers of that product in the area. Now this was something we really didn't know! I guess it seemed that we were quite interested in the olive oil and being ever so proactive, when we returned for our next stop Isaac asked us if we'd like to do a tasting! While we were doing our sampling of the wines at Las Nubes, Isaac called around and found a tasting room open, which we headed to after our tasting, lunch, and tour at Decantos Vinicola.

The producer was Olibaja.

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The young lady who provided our tasting was very sweet and also gave us a short tour of the facilities. She was full of information….the few notes I took mentioned Manzanilla olives…..

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The olive oil was slightly fruity, with a hint of bitterness, and quite green in color. The Missus had a great time; you know how much She loves Her olive oil having done tastings in several locales.

We ended up purchasing two bottles of olive oil, which is good for daily use, and a couple of bars of olive oil soap as gifts.

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Olibaja
Carretera Principal al Porvenir
B.C., Mexico

And then while we were headed to our last stop, Isaac mentioned that his friend, who brews craft beer was working at a tasting room and if we'd like to visit. We said "of course", he then mentioned that it was at Vinicola Retorno which we had visited on the previous day. When we told him this, he was going to revert back to the previous plans, but we told him that Retorno was our favorite wine stop on our tour of Valle and we'd be glad to return. And thus, we "returned" to Retorno.

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And we got in a nice tasting of beer and also a special tasting of something, at that time Retorno was doing as an experiment.

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Producing a version of Port Wine. Since our visit to Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia, I've come to appreciate a nice glass of Port. Especially with Blue Cheese, something I learned during our cheese tasting at Le Cheese Geek in Paris.

This was pretty good!

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Good enough for me to talk them into buying a bottle. And the Missus got a bottle of Her two favorite whites as well.

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In the end, we enjoyed the more casual, warm, and personal atmosphere of Vinícola Retorno. In fact, we'd like to "return to Retorno" again soon!

Vinícola Retorno
Santos Degollado 161
Villa de Juárez, B.C., Mexico

We really enjoyed the friendliness, flexibility, and expertise of the drivers that Aimee coordinated for us. She was such a pleasure to work with and arranged all the initial tastings and lunches.

As for this evening; well, four stops worked just fine for us as part of the goal was to relax as well. Which we did back at Contemplación Hotel.

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And knowing we'd be wanting to just "chill", I had dinner reservations at the restaurant in the hotel complex, Salvia Blanca which I mentioned in my previous post. We got a lovely al fresco table.

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Which came with it's own special "host". This super sweet and friendly pooch!

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I think he must be one of the dogs considered to be "staff" by the hotel. The actual host did come by immediately and asked if he was bothering us…..and of course we told him that we loved the extra attention!

Having had my fill of wine for the day; I started things off with a cerveza.

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I guess the restaurant has its own line of beer? This was on the fruity-sweet side; but nice and light as well.

As for the food; well, in keeping with we had been eating in the region; it was seafood heavy.

Starting with the Aguachile Oysters.

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Nice and refreshing, upfront citrus, with a hint of spice and pungency. The oyster's true colors comes thru in the finish with a meaty-brininess.

The oysters outshone the Shrimp and Scallop Ceviche.

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Which seemed bland in comparison. While the shrimp was tender, the scallops seemed tasteless and the marinating liquid seemed a bit on the lighter side in terms of crisp sourness….it could have been that this was served alongside the oysters.

The one non-seafood item was the Tuetano; bone marrow.

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A bit of overkill with slices of beef tataki on it, but this was really good on the blue corn tostadas. Wish the bone marrow was a bit more "jelly-ish", but an interesting range of flavors with the blue corn tostadas, avocado cream, cilantro, and pickled onions. Perhaps a bit over-the-top since I like my bone marrow plain, but an interesting dish overall.

The fish of the day was interesting. 

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A lot going on here. The skin was nice and crisp, the flesh had a nice sweetness to it but was on the drier side. The "sikil pak", a pepito and tomato based sauce could have used a bit more acidity and spice; but was quite rich. The salsa topping had the nice kick of jalapenos and some garlicky pungency.

Which meant I needed a cocktail as dessert.

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Overall a nice meal. We love the atmosphere and the vibe.

The wonderful "host" is a plus!

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Salvia Blanca (Contemplación Hotel)
Calle Merlot Parcela 325 Ejido El Porvenir
Francisco Zarco, B.C., Mexico

Since we had spent some time exploring the hotel grounds earlier, we decided to take the road down the hill to Calle Merlot and take a short walk down the dirt road.

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We had enjoyed our stay at Contemplación Hotel and really had fun experiencing some of what the Valle de Guadalupe had to offer.

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Valle de Guadalupe – Breakfast at Salvia Blanca (Contemplación Hotel), Vinos Las Nubes, and Lunch at Decantos Vinicola

We slept well after our dinner at Fauna. The rises early in Valle in June and it's great to wake up to this view in the morning.

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It was wonderful to make some coffee and sit out on the lanai and take everything in…..

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So relaxing. Breakfast was included in our stay and the restaurant at Contemplación Hotel (which I briefly covered in this post) named Salvia Blanca. The restaurant doesn't open until 830, so we had time to wander along the various paths and do some additional exploring.

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We loved all the little art installations along the pathways.

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Which led us to Salvia Blanca.

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The restaurant was fairly large with a lovely outdoor dining area.

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Things start later in Valle…..we were the only folks having breakfast in the restaurant on this day.

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Not being too hungry, the Missus and I split sunny side up eggs, bacon, and beans…..

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Which (of course) came with tortillas.

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This was a fine breakfast. I had made dinner reservations at Salvia Blanca since I (correctly) thought we'd be having a busy day and would just like to relax for dinner. So you'll be reading more about the place then.

Salvia Blanca (Contemplación Hotel)
Calle Merlot Parcela 325 Ejido El Porvenir
Francisco Zarco, B.C., Mexico

After breakfast, the Missus and I decided to explore more of the hotel grounds before our scheduled pick-up time.

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We started noticing a lot of dog themed art along the way…..like this statue of Kuzco.

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We would later see several really well behaved pooches around the offices and Salvia Blanca. We were told when we checked out that they consider these dogs to be "staff members"! How cool is that! Sadly, I did forget to ask about Kuzco. I guess that just gives us reason to return, right?

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There's even a lovely little chapel on the grounds.

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We returned to our villa to freshen up before our driver arrived….and like clockwork, fifteen minutes before our designated pick up time, he was ready and waiting for us.

Our driver today was Isaac, who was very outgoing and fun. And also very flexible as we'd end up making two detours in the afternoon which was lovely.

Our first stop was Las Nubes Bodegas y Viñedos, which had a beautiful setting on a hillside with a lovely view.

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We sat on the lovely patio.

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Admiring the view and petting the two lovely pooches…..

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While doing our tasting….it doesn't get much better than that, right?

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If I recall, the Missus enjoyed the Rose here….

For me, it was all about the view and the pooches….

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Las Nubes Bodegas y Viñedos
Callejón Emiliano Zapata, El Porvenir
Francisco Zarco, B.C., Mexico

Our next stop was just a short distance away. Decantos Vinicola also had a pleasant view. We did our tasting on the porch area.

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Then were escorted into the restaurant for lunch.

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We just wanted something refreshing and light, so we got the Tiradito.

 

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Which was interesting as it included Shiitake Mushrooms! Which gave it a more earthy-savory flavor; tempering down the acidity of the dish. I don't recall what the fish was; but it was fresh and fairly meaty. Of course it came with Tostadas.

We also got a half dozen Oysters.

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These were also interesting as it was topped with a melon compote, which added a fruity-refreshing aspect to the briny meatiness of the oysters. Quite an interesting combination to say the least.

After lunch, we were met by a very friendly young lady who took us on a tour of the wine making facilities. The pathway was artistically set-up….you just follow the barrels.

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For some reason, the underground cellar reminded me of our Champagne Tour in…of course Champagne!

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And soon enough, we were off to our last two stops…..

Decantos Vinicola
Rancho San Miguel Fraccion A, S/N
El Porvenir, B.C., Mexico

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Which were just done spur of the moment and would actually be the highlight of our day!

Stay Tuned!

Fauna – Valle de Guadalupe

For our blowout meal while visiting Valle de Guadalupe, I made reservations at Fauna which for several years had been touted among the "best" (in lower case and strong quotes) restaurants in Latin America. Of course…those lists…..Fauna was chosen as the "best" in Mexico in 2023 according to Eater. Of course, I kind of temper my expectations at bit. We've dined at Maido, which has claimed the title of Best Restaurant in the World in 2025 and Osteria Francescana when it held that title back in 2018. Both meals were good and innovative; but each with short comings for us. Still, what I had read and seen regarding Fauna was interesting, so I made those reservations.

Of course our driver, Ivan was super punctual, and off we went! We were dropped right at the entrance of Fauna which is located in the huge and sprawling Bruma Wine Resort.

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We were greeted and seated. The Missus wasn't too fond of the communal seating arrangement, but I kind of enjoyed the social aspect.

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I had a cocktail and the Missus wine while we looked over the menu.

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We started with some wonderful shellfish. I think the Missus's favorite was the super sweet abalone, which came with a nutty pepito flavored aspic. The blood clams were so sweet and an umami bomb.

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The Baja Oysters were mildly briny and refreshing, with a clean finish.

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The Tuna Fin Sopes where a bit salty and the sopes were on drier-chewier side. For some reason, it also lacked a nice "maize" flavor as well.

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The Octopus with Tomato was interesting as it was quite herbal. The octopus was cooked perfectly and quite tender.

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The scallops in the Scallops in Eggplant Puree was so sweet and tender.

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But the eggplant puree was thinner than I anticipated and really lacked the smoky-savory flavor we enjoy. It was also a bit on the salty side.

The Rabbit and Celeriac was an interesting dish as the rabbit was compressed.

IMG_9522  IMG_9529 Surprisingly mild in flavor, the rabbit was super moist and tender. The celeriac added some nice sweet tones as well. This was served with some blue corn tortillas, which, unlike the sopes were mildly sweet and "maizey".

Seeing Sweetbreads on the menu; you know I just had to order it, right?

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Served on a savory, lovely potato puree, and with crispy fried kale to add an interesting bitter-sweet flavor and also textural contrast to the nutty-buttery, mildly offaly sweetbreads, this was an delici-yoso dish!

The Striped Bass with a Pasilla Adobo was very good.

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The fish was perfectly pan fried, crisp exterior, moist and flaky, while a bit on the salty side. The adobo was wonderful, smoky, slightly sweet, mild spice, quite rich in texture.

There were two dishes we were advised to order by folks we know. The first being the Charred Cabbage.

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Which lay in a large dollop of a sauce made of Chilhuacle Chiles, which was the sweeter side. The cabbage was fine….and we've been ordering charred cabbage this when we see it on menus since we had it at Senia. The cabbage was quite mild in flavor, even though it was charred and should have really developed a sweet smokiness.

And then there was the Wagyu which was served with a Pasilla Chile Stuffed with Cheese which was kinda overkill.

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The steak was toothsome and quite beefy, though cooked past our preferred doneness.

The Missus did enjoy the desserts.

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While the Missus was not particularly fond of the communal seating and definitely not in same league as Pujol; I think we'd return if we had a chance.

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We felt sorry for the young man who was part of the Asian couple across from us. He was so excited to be dining at Fauna; but the young lady accompanying him was having none of it. She made many rude comments…sometimes not even touching what was on her plate! She just didn't want to be there it seems, making the meal as unpleasant for her date as possible, and was totally unable to just "suck it up" for the sake of the young man. Sigh….

Fauna
México 3 Km #73
Francisco Zarco, B.C., Mexico

After dinner we strolled around the area a bit.

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Thinking that perhaps we might want to stay around here should we return to Valle.

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Puerto Nuevo – Restaurant Bar El Guero

I'm not sure why I took so long to do it…..many folks I know have been to Valle de Guadalupe, not only for winery visits, but also because of the ever elevating cuisine that is being presented in the region, which includes several Michelin listed restaurants. I guess we'd been too busy visiting CDMX and other wonderful areas within Mexico, that we just never got around to it. So finally last year, as a late birthday thing for the Missus, I decided that we should "dip our feet" into the Valle. I also decided that perhaps not driving around in an area I'm not familiar with after imbibing might not be a great idea and really wanted to make this something special for the Missus. It just so happened that I listened to the now inactive "All in San Diego" podcast and heard an interview with Aimee Cruz, who is the founder of Valle Guadalupe Baja Tours. She sounded so upbeat and positive that I went and sent an email and got a very quick response and then had a lovely phone conversation with her. It was a wonderful experience….and no; Aimee does not know I have this blog at all; I'm not one of those influencer types….just some guy that likes to eat…and travel occasionally. Things ended up quite customized, we had our drivers, I made the reservations for accommodations after reviewing some recommendations and checking online. I made dinner reservations and Aimee provided a nice list of possible wineries with their attributes. Everything was scheduled at our pace and preference and once Aimee found out that we enjoy dining she coordinated our lunches along the way. Our drivers, Ivan and Isaac were wonderful, and because it was just the Missus and I, things were flexible and we made a couple of stops that weren't on the itinerary.

Because this was just two evenings we were able to use backpacks for our belongings and take the trolley from Clairemont Drive to San Ysidro, where we met Ivan and crossed over to Tijuana. One other thing of note; we loved it that Ivan and Isaac were always at our meeting spots at least 15 minutes early!

The drive was relaxing and Ivan was quite friendly and full of information. When it was time for lunch, Ivan parked at this corner in Puerto Nuevo and walked us into the restaurant; named El Guero. We got a table with a view.

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The vibe was friendly and relaxing. No customers when we arrived; but the place soon started filling up….a mixture of tourists and groups of folks speaking Spanish. 

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Ivan told us that El Guero was known for the langostas; lobster, so of course we had to order that.

Things started with some fairly routine chips and salsa.

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We also ordered some Aguachile. 

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As you can tell this was Aguachile Negro. The shrimp were nice and plump, the cucumbers added a mild refreshing-light brininess and a nice a sprinkling of Tajin added a bit more puckery-heat to the dish. Overall not bad.

And then the star of the show.

IMG_9428  IMG_9432 Man, look at the langostas! The beans were bland and watery and the rice on the harder side and also very mild in flavor, but those lobsters! There was a time when the Missus just didn't care for lobster; having had quite a few bland versions of them . But time and visit to places on the east coast and Canada, She has come around. And these were delicately, sweet-oceany, with a firm, yet pliable texture. 

Initially, we weren't quite sure about the flour tortillas, as large a frisbee; but they held the lobster well, had a mild, almost sweet-buttery flavor that actually enhanced things.

No wonder they call Puerto Nuevo the "Lobster Village" of Baja!

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Restaurant Bar El Guero
Anzuelo 15
Puerto Nuevo, B.C., Mexico

Ivan told us to text him via Whatsapp one we were done and he'd pick us up. But after such a rich meal we needed to take a short stroll first.

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I'm not sure if this is normal for Puerto Nuevo, but we found the town to be quite sleepy on this Tuesday afternoon.

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We had a nice stroll, before texting Ivan, then meeting him near the Shark Statue.

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And then we were off….first we'd be doing a few tastings; then we'd head on over to our accommodations to freshen up before dinner.

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This was a nice way to start our short trip!

Revisits to the Tacos La Chorreada Truck

Back almost three years ago, I paid my first visit to the Tacos La Chorreada Truck which is parked in V-Outlet lot on Clairemont Drive. I thought some of the tacos were decent, so I told the Missus. Of course She didn't believe me. It took me almost three years to convince Her that it might be worth a try. And so, She finally gave in. And guess what? She does indeed think of it as being one of the better options within walking distance….possibly the best. And since that first takeout visit, well…..we've I've been walking up to the truck with JJ to do takeout when the Missus is craving some tacos.

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There are just a couple of items from the menu that we order.

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No pollo, carne asada, or carnitas……..and it turns out that the Missus didn't care for the rubbery buche (pork stomach).

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We'll usually get 4 tacos, some salsa verde and salsa rojo…the Missus likes the greasy, but tasty onions as well as the rustic, maizey tortillas. 

La Chorreada Rev 04  La Chorreada Rev 05 Since I've already done a post on this truck; I'll list the Missus's current favorites.

Tied for 1 – Cabeza and Lengua: I guess it depends on the day, but these two are the Missus's "must order". The lengua is a bit more beefy, but amazingly tender. The cabeza, when done with a slight char has a great texture; though milder in flavor than the lengua, it's goes well with the salsa rojo and a squeeze of lime to cut the richness. We always order these two.

3 – Chorizo con Nopales – The Missus enjoys both the mildly smoky flavor paprika brings to chorizo, along with a bit of the savory-pungent-earthy tones. The Nopales adds that gooey "neba-neba" texture She enjoys as well. The flavor of the tortillas and the onions really come thru on this one. 

4 – Cueritos (pork skin) – The Missus is on the fence on this one; though I enjoy the contrasts in textures that the gooey-rubbery pork skin brings to taco. I enjoy this with the salsa verde as the tanginess can be really made out.

It's nice finally having an option nearby that the Missus enjoys. As a plus, I can place my order, and JJ to visit his "aunties and uncles" Bay Hill Tavern for a cerveza, then pick up tacos "para llevar" (to go) and head on home.

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And it seems that this truck is doing some good business. On two of my visits folks placed order for the 30 taco special!

The Tacos La Chorreada Truck (In the Parking Lot of V-Outlet)
3030 Clairemont Dr
San Diego, CA 92117

Hope everyone has a great weekend!

Tequila Part 3 – Chocolate and Tequila Tasting at La Rojena, Fonda Chivo y Vaca, and the Sky Bar (Hotel Solar de las Animas)

**** Here's part 3 of my mostly photo posts on our stay in Tequila

We started our last full day in Tequila, with a birote as I noted in my previous post. We wandered around a bit before heading to a tour and tasting I scheduled. We were in Tequila and it would be almost sacrilegious to not visit the oldest Tequila distillery, right? And to make things more entertaining for the Missus, I decided to do the chocolate and tequila tasting as well.

This would take place at Jose Cuervo's Fabrica la Rojena distillery. I mentioned that Jose Antonio Cuervo was the first person granted permission to produce Tequila for sale in an earlier post. Fabrica la Rojena, the distillery was established in 1812, making it the oldest active distillery in Latin America.

Finding the place was easy…..it's located on, you guessed it, Calle Jose Cuervo. The view up that street is quite lovely.

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We met in front of the Mundo Cuervo Hall, where that giant crow statue stands and were soon guided on a tour of the place.

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Making it to the back of the distillery where we got to see the "pina", the heart of the agave plants being delivered and prepped.

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Like the previous day, it was getting pretty darn warm….this is hard work.

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I had worried that doing tequila distillery tours two days in a row might lead to a lot of overlap; but to our extreme pleasure, what we learned here actually added to what we had learned the previous day. We got to be much more close up to things as well.

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And there were actual displays along the way as well. I didn't know that American Oak barrels were used for Reposado and Anejo aging.

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After the tour, the Missus and I met up with the nice young man who guided us thru our tasting which the Missus truly enjoyed.

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What I most enjoyed was chatting with him about his life; he was born in Glendale and his family moved back to Jalisco and Tequila when he was 10 years old. Can you imagine how being seprated from your friends at that age must be? And he was more comfortable speaking English at that time. He also liked that we enjoyed the varied tastes of Blanco. And then we asked him about the new Cristalino Tequila; where Anejo is passed thru a filtering process, making it clear, and taking it back to almost being a Blanco….but charging a person even more than a Anejo? He laughed and said it's kind of a hipster thing right now…..'nuff said.

We enjoyed our tour and tasting at La Rojena.

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When we were done; it was…well time for lunch. We just wanted something simple and hearty. And yes, we were in Jalisco; so Birria de Chivo was high on our list. And there was a place named Fonda Chivo y Vaca close by!

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Turns out it was a three story restaurant with views of the street. We were seated on the ground floor.

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Of course we got some Birria de Chivo and also Carne en su Jugo.

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The Carne en su Jugo had a very upfront acidity, which was interesting…..the beans were so earthy and perfectly cooked.

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The Birria de Chivo was slightly gamy; nice smokey flavors, a bit of spice.

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The meat was on the chewier side. Definitely not like Birriería Las 9 Esquinas, but miles ahead of what we have here in San Diego.

Fonda Chivo y Vaca
Jesús Rodríguez de Hijar 17
Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico

On this day, we actually managed a nice siesta……..

And then we woke and took a nice stroll. On an interesting note, we saw the really nice young man who did our chocolate pairing at La Rojena in the lobby of the hotel talking to the staff. Apparently, Jose Cuervo owns Hotel Solar de las Animas!

As the evening rolled around we took a nice stroll. This was a Thursday and the hotel was getting busier. As we strolled around Plaza Principal we could see the families doing there "evening thing".

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We looked for a spot to have a seat and just take in the evening, but it was busy. It was then we saw a couple waving to us, they moved over on a bench and beckoned us over so we could enjoy the sights and sounds. These are the moments that make travel so special!

When dinner time came around; we just decided to head back to the hotel. On our first evening in the town, we enjoyed having a drink at the Sky Bar at our hotel. We also noticed that they had an abbreviated menu of  La Antigua Casona, the very popular restaurant in the hotel. So, we just decided to have our last dinner there. 

With a nice view of the town.

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The Aguachile Negro and Jicama was just as good as what we'd had in the restaurant.

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The Ceviche less so; but overall this was a nice, light meal.

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Sky Bar (in Hotel Solar de las Animas)
Calle Albino Rojas #14
46400 Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico

And of course, our room with the amazing view was just a minute away.

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The next morning, we woke a bit earlier than usual and took a stroll around town before our ride to the airport.

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We were indeed taken be the art, the colors…..the Tequila…..but there was more that made our stay wonderful.

It was the warm people….and the pooches…..

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That had us contemplating as I got that Birote yet again…..

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That we'd return once again, in the middle of the week to enjoy Tequila…both the town and the drink!

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Tequila Part 2 – Casa Sauza Tour Tres Generacions and Restaurante La Cueva de Don Cenobio

**** Here's part 2 of my mostly photo posts on our stay in Tequila

We'd had a wonderful first afternoon and evening in Tequila and slept well. We slept in and just enjoyed the cool A/C and of course the view from our patio.

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It was a clear morning and you can see Volcán de Tequila towering over the town. We had gotten some light breakfast bars at Oxxo the previous afternoon, so we had that for breakfast. The hotel was so peaceful and we quickly noticed something. We had a room in one of the towers on the top floor. Apparently, we were the only folks staying in the tower. The evening before our elevator was at the bottom floor when we finished dinner, in the morning, the elevator was on the same floor as our room…it seemed like it hadn't moved all night. We saw folks entering their rooms in other wings of the hotel, but no lights in any rooms in our tower. I guess Tuesdays and Wednesdays are pretty quiet here in the summer?

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We had a tour starting at 1pm, so we had the entire morning free. We decided to just chill.

At around 930, I started getting a bit hungry. I had noticed a pedestrian street, Augustina Ramirez, right behind the Municipal Market seemed to have a bunch of shops and stands. So we headed over.

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It seemed like a lot of locals were getting breakfast and brunch here and the stand making Tortas looked really good. I got one with chorizo……man, the Birote Salados, the sourdough bread smelled fabulous. The bread traces its history back to the second French intervention. You can read more about it in this post in Breadtopia.

Anyway, this was super good.

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I would get one every morning in Tequila.

And half a block away; the Missus found Her Agua Frescas heaven! She loved the Coconut Agua Fresca from here.

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She would have a liter in the morning and another in the afternoon. By the following morning, the gentleman manning the stand would just start pouring it as soon as he saw us!

We made the decision to do a bit more exploring. This time, we headed down to where we had entered the town via our driver the previous afternoon, on Sixto Gorjon.

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This commercial strip was full of various businesses…..

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And well behaved pooches….

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We decided to take a short break before heading to our tour….but first, the Missus needed another liter of Her agua fresca!

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Soon it was getting close to the time of our tour at Casa Sauza. I know, you figured we'd be doing Jose Cuervo, right? Well, we were doing that the following day. Most folks know Sauza Tequila for making the not-so-good Hornitos Brand. Casa Sauza however, has several product lines, as well as several tours. I went ahead and booked the Tour Tres Generacions, which can only be done via email. This is an upgrade of the high level Causa Sauza tour that also features a private tasting and a "gourmet" (it's usually a BBQ meal for the regular tour) meal in Restaurante La Cueva de Don Cenobio, located in Quinto Sauza.

The group met in the family's estates Gift Shop.

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Where one could learn a bit more of the history of Sauza Tequila.

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We were taken on a quick tour of La Quinta and also briefed on the history of Sauza Tequila. It's quite beautiful here.

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There's even a chapel to Our Lady of Guadalupe.

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Having been to the location in CDMX where Juan Diego saw the apparition of the Virgin Mary in 1531, this really stuck with us.

After a tour of the casa were boarded a trolley and headed out to the agave field.

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Where we were briefed on the life cycle of Blue Weber Agave. Unlike Mezcal, only one type of agave is used to make tequila.

And then we witnessed the Jimador showing off his skill.

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Don't be fooled; this is hard work. That agave ain't small and you've got to trim it perfectly. And we all had a chance to check out the Coa de Jima which is super sharp. You could easily chop your foot off if you aren't careful.

After our time in the fields we were transported to the actual distillery.

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Where the Missus and I were directed to a different spot from the rest of the tour. They would be heading off to do some tastings of Sauza and Hornitos. We met a different guide who took us to see the actual distillery which is not included in the regular tour.

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Which was quite impressive.

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We were then given a private tasting of Sauza's top of the line Tres Generacion, led by one of the master tasters….I think they call them "Maestros"?

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We got tastes of the Blanco (aged less than 2 months in steel), Reposado (aged from 2-12 months in Oak), Anejo (aged 1-3 years in Oak), and something that was new to us at the time, Cristalino which is a Anejo that is filtered in charcoal so that it loses it's smoky personality and also becomes clear…like a Blanco (more on this in my next post). At the end the Maestro asked us what we enjoyed. Strangely enough, both the Missus and I actually liked the Blanco, the unaged in steel vats, cheapest version. She asked us why and we both said that you could really make out the agave – citrusy-grassy-slighlty fruity. She smiled and nodded saying "yes, most like smoky and rich, but I am glad you like the pureness…." I guess we scored some points?

We were then transported back to Casa Sauza and the restaurant onsite, La Cueva de Don Cenobio. We were met and seated at a nice little table. We saw the group that we were with earlier, they were just finishing their meal.

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Because we had our own special tour, we had a special three course meal with two choices for an soup, main, and dessert. So, we got one of each.

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In keeping with the brevity of these posts; I will say, this was our favorite meal of our stay in Tequila. That blanco tortilla soup was amazing, as was the pork belly. The fish looked totally burnt; but that charring was done on purpose, it was actually smoky, crisp, with a hint of spice and sweetness.

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This was a fine meal and a nice way to end the tour. The service was very professional and while the portions weren't very large, this was more than enough food for us.

La Cueva de Don Cenobio (In Casa Sauza)
Calle Luis Navarro 70
Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico

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It was past 5pm when we left Casa Sauza. It had been a full afternoon for us.

We spent some time strolling around Plaza Principal. It was the end of the day and folks seemed to be out and about.

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We were enjoying Tequila!

Tequila Part 1 – La Antigua Casona and Hotel Solar de las Animas

I'm catching things up on our trip to Jalisco. Basically doing a "Clearing Out the Memory Card"  and mainly posting photos as it brings back some nice memories. I'm dividing this visit into 3 parts.

We had an awesome driver who was quite prompt and made the hour and a half drive from Guadalajara to Tequila a breeze. Why Tequila? Well, personally, I enjoy my Mezcal. Meanwhile, the Missus enjoys Tequila more. We had already visited Oaxaca so the Missus requested equal time for Tequila. So, I went ahead and booked us three nights in the town. I was told that we should just do the Tequila Express from Guadalajara to Casa Sauza and more or less to a day trip. I thought spending a few nights in one of the Pueblos Mágicos would be fun.

We knew we were getting close to Tequila when we started passing all the fields of Blue Agave.

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We were dropped off at our accommodation; the Hotel Solar de Animas, which turned out to be a fantastic choice as it was centrally located, had beautiful gardens, a restaurant, two bars. The place was super quiet…..I was told that during the middle of the week Tequila is more mellow. And we ended up with a top floor room in one of the towers.

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With a small patio and awesome views.

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And most importantly, a potent A/C, since the temperature was no joke!

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After settling in, we decided to take a stroll. First exploring the hotel grounds.

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The center of town is basically around the corner from the hotel.

We quickly noticed all of the artwork. This one is in the Edificio Municipal, basically the city hall.

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Which stands across from the Plaza Principal…the main square with even more lovely public art.

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Much of which feature the all important Jimador.

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Right across the street is this lovely church; the Parroquia Santiago Apostol.

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Here's a bit more info on it.

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The street that bisects Plaza Principal and the Municipal Building is named Jose Cuevo….you know why, right? We had a tour lined up for Jose Cuervo and Fábrica La Rojeña on our last full day of our stay, so we just took a quick look.

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The name of that sculpture is named "Cuervo", by artist Carlos Terrés. Why the crow you may ask. Well, Jose Antonio Cuervo was the first person granted permission to produce Tequila for sale by King Charles IV of Spain in 1795. And the crow adorned those bottles and has become the symbol of Jose Cuervo.

Also just a block away is the Municipal Market which is full of stalls and eateries, but the place was closing up for the day.

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It was pretty darn hot out.

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So we decided on taking a break in the air conditioned comfort of our room.

We also decided on an early dinner. The restaurant in the hotel La Antigua Casona, "The Old Mansion" seemed to be highly rated, so we decided on having an early dinner there.

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Even though the dining area is located in a patio/courtyard area, it is protected from the direct rays of the sun, making it quite comfortable.

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And a nice cocktail; this is called the Afortunado does help things out.

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We ordered a bunch of smaller dishes and a salad. Strangely, our favorite item was the simple jicama. With the nice salsa rojo, it was so refreshing. Tied for second would be the rather refreshing Aguachile Negro and the Soft Shelled Crab Tacos which was fried perfectly.

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The Barbacoa Flautas were nicely put together, but the barbacoa lacked the savory-spice we enjoy. It seemed a bit dumbed down.

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The House Salad was fine, but nothing special.

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Service was superb, as would be expected. 

La Antigua Casona (in Hotel Solar de las Animas)
Calle Albino Rojas #14
46400 Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico

We took our typical after dinner stroll. Thru Plaza Principal.

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Right across form Parroquia Santiago Apostol is this.

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It's the Capilla del Antiguo Hospital de Indios. Built in the 16th Century by Franciscan Monks, the hospital served the local indigenous people who were ravaged by the diseases brought by the Conquistadores. The red finish was part of a redesign that took place in the 1940's.

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After this, we decided to do more of an extensive walk, so headed down Calle Juarez, which turns to Hidalgo, all the way down to Toluca. Heading toward Toluca gives you a more realistic view of the town.

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Though Toluca has quite a few hotels on it.

It was fun checking out all the well behaved pooches.

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We headed back to the hotel via Calle Leandro Valle because there was a statue I had wanted to see. Near the corner of Calle Francisco I. Madero and General Atreaga stands this statue.

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It is of the Goddess Mayahuel, the goddess of the Maguey (Agave) plant.

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From here we headed on back to our hotel. While walking past Parroquia Santiago Apostol, this pooch came rushing toward us. I wasn't sure what was going on. But as soon as she got to us, she rolled over……she just wanted some belly rubs! 

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Her owner came rushing over to apologize, but we used our poor Spanish and hand signs to indicate that we loved it!

It was still pretty warm when we got back to the hotel.

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I had read that the hotel had a "Sky Bar" with a nice view; so we decided to check it out. It was quite relaxed and lovely. 

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And the view was nice as well.

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We relaxed. The Missus had a Margarita; I got myself a beer.

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We noticed that there was an abbreviated menu of La Antigua Casona available. It had our favorite dishes from that meal, so we'd end up having dinner here on our last evening.

It was lovely way to end the day.

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And I had a lovely view as I typed away on my laptop…..

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The hustle and bustle of city life seemed galaxies away.

Thanks for stopping by!

Saturday Stuffs – Palomino’s Replaces El Cuervo and Dao Xiang Noodle Replaces Mama Lin’s

Here are two changes that caught me by surprise.

Dao Xiang Noodle Replaces Mama Lin's:

Was at 99 Ranch Market off Balboa and went to the restroom when I noticed this.

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Well, Mama Lin's didn't last very long, did they? For some reason, I was just not interested in a noodle shop that made everything from Won Ton Noodle Soup to Pho to Ramen to Corn Dogs to Musubi…which BTW, they spelled as Misubi on the menu! That's another one for you Mar!

Anyway, this one looks a bit more interesting. Hopefully they'll last longer than Mama Lin's did. Though I believe Saigon 5 lasted about 6-7 years in this spot.

5950 Balboa Ave (Inside 99 Ranch Market)
San Diego, CA 92111

Palomino's Replaces El Cuervo:

I was driving up Washington Street….a route I honestly don't take much when I glanced over to the corner of Washington and First and what I saw surprised me!

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El Cuervo had been replaced by a location of Palomino's! When did this happen? Honestly, I hadn't been back to El Cuervo since we moved offices from Hillcrest over a decade and a half ago. And I had only done one post on the place back in August of 2005. Along with Mediterranean Cafe and Bronx Pizza, I considered these the "3-OG" within that two block radius! Man, I haven't been to Bronx since like 2008….perhaps I need to revisit?

To quote Chaucer: “Time and Tide wait for no man”

110 West Washington St.
San Diego, CA 92103

Birrieria Enriquez

I had passed Birrieria Enriquez several times while driving east on University. It's right past the Georgia Street Bridge, where Philly Grill used to be. I'd been wanting some birria and really didn't want to head down South, so I decided to give the place a try. It was a bit of an effort trying to find parking, but I knew that based on previous visits to businesses in the location.

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After being blessed with finding parking on Landis and Mississippi I walked on over.

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The interior is a bright white with a simple counter; there's one outdoor table.

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The sign says "Sonoran style birria", so I knew it was going to be birria de res all the way. There was one gentleman working, you order at the counter and he sets to work. I ordered and had a seat at the counter at the window.

Soon enough my order was ready. I was also provided a fairly picante red salsa for what I got. Which was a Birria Taco, a Cabeza Taco, and of course some Consomme. The tacos were fairly loaded with meat.

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The Consomme smelled and tasted wonderful; it was much richer than I'm used to and actually had birria in it!

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A squeeze of lime just balanced things out. Man, a bit of spice, some beefiness, smokiness, this might be the best consomme I've had in a while! It was definitely the highlight of the meal for me.

As for the tacos, as I mentioned, they were pretty "stuffed".

Enriquez 06 Enriquez 06b  My favorite of the two I ordered was the Cabeza. It was tender, beefy, with a side of "funk". Nicely seasoned and cooked, so very juicy. A squirt of lime to cut the richness, cilantro and onion to add pungency, and it was darn good. The tortillas were fine; they were doubled with some queso in between to hold it together.

The tortillas for the birria taco had been doused in consomme before placing on the comal which contributed to the flavor and texture. The beef smoky, with a nice amount of pungent-acidic-beefy tones, good cumin-spice. It was a bit chewier and stringy, but the flavor was nice. It sure beats the hipster-faddish versions that now proliferate San Diego.

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I enjoyed this meal; especially that consomme.

As I was finishing my meal and young lady came in and ordered 6 fish tacos? At a birria shop? I guess she saw the look on my face, smiled and said "the fish tacos here are the bomb, better than the food trucks around here." Hmmm…… Well, that gave me a good reason to return.

And of course I ordered the consomme. Not feeling too hungry, I just decided to try the fish taco. I again had a seat on the counter by the window, but I took notice of the small dining area at the side of the restaurant.

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This time I was provided with three different salsas.

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I figured that the two creamy ones were for the fish tacos.

Speaking of the fish taco.

Enriquez 13  Enriquez 14 The piece of battered and fried fish was quite large. But the batter was soggy and the flesh of the pescado was slimy-fishy-muddy, not my favorite flavors and textures when it comes to fish. Not even the lime and the salsas….I preferred the verde (green), which had a bit more acidity and herbaceousness, but I really didn't enjoy this.

As for the consomme….well, it was just as good this time around.

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Well, teach me to order a Taco de Pescado at a birria place, right?

As for Birrieria Enriquez, well, I'll definitely return for the consomme and the cabeza. They also have Sonoran style Menudo, but were out on both of my visits. I'll keep trying to get that for the Missus. And with that one outdoor table….who knows, maybe I'll bring JJ along!

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Birrieria Enriquez
2041 University Ave.
San Diego, CA 92104
Current Hours:
Tues – Thurs 10am – 8pm
Fri – Sun        9am – 9pm
Closed on Monday

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