Madrid: Restaurante Badila and Museo Reina Sofía

I'm going to do a few posts out of chronological order. We did visit the South of France following our stay in San Sebastian, then ended back up in Madrid. The city, the first time around just didn't impress us much we'd walked around a bit, eaten some decent, but not outstanding meals and were just a bit underwhelmed. The rather griminess and grittiness of the city along with the heat and such had not impressed much on us. This was to change soon enough. This time around, we were staying at an apartment right on Plaza de Tirso de Molina a very busy square in Madrid. It meant a walk of over a mile from Atocha Station, which wasn't so bad. You'd think that being in the middle of the crowds would make things worse; but the opposite was true. First off, the apartment we were staying at. Not just the view of the plaza…..

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But the set-up as well with good A/C….quite important as the temps would be in the 90's until 9-10pm…no wonder dinner was eaten so late. But the double paned windows minimized the sound of the lively square below.

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As a big bonus, one of the owners; Emilio apparently loved to eat. While checking in, I mentioned his great list of restaurants….then, just by luck, we started talking about Jamon….not Jamon Iberico….but Jamon Bellota, and the importance of how the jamon is sliced. We were in like Flynn! He asked us to stow our luggage, then walked us to his favorite local eatery…"nothing fancy, but very good, local style food"! It would turn out to be just the kind of place we'd been looking for. It was right down the side street, but there was no way we'd have found Restaurante Badila without him. Emilio introduced us to the owner….they found us a table in the packed little restaurant, which featured "menu del dia"…..a menu of items available for the day.

06072015 2109 06072015 2104The little place was packed…..all locals, looking for a good lunch at decent prices. The deal was a soup or salad, a main, dessert, and drinks (which included a glass of wine on weekends) for a set price. This would turn out to be one of our favorite meals of the trip….even without foie gras!

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Things just started out perfectly for us as I'd ordered the Salmorejo…….which has become a staple in our household.

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The wonderful "taste of sunshine" from the ripe tomatoes, the grassy-peppery flavor of the olive oil…it was refreshing on such a hot day and had that "aaah" factor to it. Smooth and creamy, onion for pungency, the jamon for a bit of salty-savory flavor. Man, this was so good……it left an indelible mark on me.

We'd had mollejas de cordero, goat sweetbreads before, but coated with a light crunchy batter to provide that contrast in textures….crunch and creamy was just right.

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And provided in salad was just perfect for such a hot day.

The Huevos con Chorizo was probably the most mundane dish of the day.

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But since the Missus loves eggs, this really didn't disappoint either.

The Estofado Carne was also delicious and quite different from what I thought I'd get.

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The beef was so flavorful and tender, the sauce almost like a light béchamel………this was delicious.

And there was dessert….which the Missus enjoyed.

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06072015 2107 06072015 2108No, there were no Michelin stars here. Just honest good food, the type locals like to eat. It really made our day and we started seeing Madrid in a different way. We started understanding things. A good meal can do that. In fact, I'm looking forward to returning someday soon. To the simple restaurant down a side street……

Thanks Emilio!

Restaurante Badila
Calle San Pedro Martir 6
Madrid, Spain

Emilio had left us to our own devices once he found us seats in Badila. We had the keys to the apartment and a list of places to eat and the rest was up to us.

It was getting fairly warm so we did the Spanish thing….it was siesta time!

When we awoke, the Missus had things planned out for us…….on our earlier visit we checked out the Prado Museum twice….during the free early evening hours. On our return trip, it was The Reina Sofia Museum's turn.

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There were actually quite a few people waiting to get into the museum, but the line moved fast……and heck, it was free (between 7 and 9pm).

06072015 2116 06072015 2117As I've mentioned before, I really don't know much about art. But this trip has really given me a greater appreciation of it. I was truly moved by viewing Las Meninas by Diego Velázquez. One artist I do know of is Joan Miró whose works I recall seeing at the Contemporary Museum in Honolulu. I've always enjoyed his somewhat whimsical and almost playful works. So of course I enjoyed viewing his works here. Next time we're in Barcelona, we'll make sure to visit his museum.

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There was of course, works by Dali, Diego Rivera, and many more, like this work named Un Mundo (The World) by Angeles Santos.

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There was one particular work that I wanted to see. I'd mentioned gaining a real appreciation of the work of Picasso, then being moved by his painting and the story of the Bombing of Guernica. So the main reason for really wanting to visit was to view Guernica by Picasso. Just viewing a photo of the painting inspired us to visit the city. The painting is huge….much larger than I expected. The size creates a greater impact…the vignettes…the stories each part of the work tells.

Museo Reina Sofía
Calle Santa Isabel 52
Madrid, Spain

Days were fairly long during this part of the year. It was past 8 when we left the museum but as is the way in Madrid, things seemed to just be getting started.

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And as is the way in large cities. There are thousands of little scenes. In this one, the older man slowly makes his move……

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And in the end, got a peck on the cheek and a slap on the shoulder…….

Love knows no age limit in Madrid…….

San Sebastian: Plaza Gipuzkoa and Casa Urola

The Missus really wanted to work off what we ate at Bar Bergara, even though we walked around Monte Urgell and all the way to Gros. So we walked into Centro and came across a nice park area; known as Plaza Gipuzkoa.

06072015 1157 06072015 1162With beautiful landscaping, ponds, trees, and interesting white marble clock-table, surrounded by Neo-classical buildings, it made for a nice stop to stroll, people watch, and just enjoy the fresh air.

I'm sometime interested in statues you'll find in these parks. The one I saw here is for native son José María Usandizaga, a Basque Composer who succumbed to tuberculosis at the young age of 28. 06072015 1155

The meteorological pergola (gazebo) was quite interesting as well. Though I really couldn't quite make out how it worked. It did keep me occupied for a while though.

We wandered a bit more through the street of "Centro"….doing some window shopping, the Missus considering a few purchases.

Until She'd had enough. It was time to walk back to the apartment.

 

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So, we got back to the street where our apartment was located…..

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And suddenly decided to make one more stop. This one was close by, just a few doors down at Casa Urola.

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The upstairs area features a well regarded restaurant; but we decided to sit downstairs and have some pintxos.

We started with the Ensalada de Hongos, Pinones, en Idiazabal.

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A nice refreshing salad; the light Idiabazal (this one didn't taste smoked) cheese bolstered by the pine nuts.

The Brocheta Pulpo y Papada (pork jowl fat) was amazing……

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Tender octopus draped in pork fat……need I say more?

The Carrillera was passable. Man those potatoes had a texture of thick cream……

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And no meal would be complete without some "Basque Butter" Foie Gras.

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You'd think that after having Foie Gras for almost every meal; sometimes twice, we'd be getting tired of the stuff. Ummm…..no way! Nicely seared Mi Cuit with an almost jelly like interior. Decadent and delicious.

Along with a couple of beers (for me) and a "tinto" (for the Missus), this was a nice low keyed last meal in San Sebastian. 06072015 1165

Casa Urola
Fermin Calbeton 20
San Sebastian, Spain

Our apartment was literally a few steps away from Casa Urola. Eating that last piece of Foie Gras, I was suddenly worried that we'd be marching back up Monte Urgull. But the missus only wanted to take a short walk, "to help digest" and all that.

While walking around we passed these two American "street kids" whom we first saw begging for money near Brexta Market. We later saw them partaking of the "cash crop" on Mount Urgull, and now they asked us for money the second time around. We acted like we didn't speak English or Spanish. It was time to go……….

But first, we had a nice Txakoli break.

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While I couldn't get up to the pouring height of the really nice bartender at Bar la Cepa; Txakoli is a very dry, acidic, "fresh" wine that is traditionally poured from a height of about two meters to aerate the wine, creating bubbles, and reducing the carbon dioxide. It was a nice way to end our last evening in San Sebastian.

The next morning we headed to the train station. Instead of catching a cab or the bus the Missus (of course) chose to walk.

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Actually, it was a nice walk. We had a cup of coffee in the train station, then caught the train to Hendaye, then Saint Jean de Luz.

Recently Consumed

I haven't done one of these in a while, so here goes.

It always amazes me that the Missus can eat the same dish over and over again for weeks on end. For Christmas; along with cooking for Her potlucks the Missus wanted my oxtail soup. So I obliged Her. She requested that I add some daikon this time around. Man, She ate it for 5 meals in three days! As much as I love oxtail soup my enthusiasm was really waning at the tail end. So I bought some Sun Noodles and made this for me.

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And had for two of those meals.

Heat the bowl……add the greens….

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In go the noodles……

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Top with da' good stuffs…..

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It seems the Missus just didn't get enough beans when, by request I made kind of Cassoulet. The weekend after New Year, She wanted Red Beans and Rice. I've adjusted my recipe a tad, perhaps one day I'll update….anyway, this was good for another 5 meals.

IMG_6221 IMG_6311Currently, the Missus is a bit obsessed with a sauce I through together after grilling some lamb. Duck Fat, Avocado Oil, Harissa, Cumin, Cayenne, Ghost Pepper Salt, Salt, Pepper, Black Vinegar and most importantly Sichuan Peppercorn. It's that suan-tian-ku-la-Xian with a nice dose of "ma". So we've been eating a lot of lamb; in the form of merguez patties and lamb meatballs….that sort of thing.

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That sauce goes great with lamb and I went through an entire tube of harissa having to make this four times…….

One of these days I'll post recipes for Balsamic Brussel Sprouts that I sometimes make four times a week for the Missus's lunches that I often alternate with Kelaguen and Finedene……

Green China Grill

Back in September, I noticed some activity in Plaza del Sol, a place named "Green China Grill" was opening up. I asked the Missus to translate the Chinese and was told it really didn't give a clue regarding what regional type of food the place might be serving. The in the middle of December Eater indicated that Langzhou Hand Pulled Noodles aka "Lamian" (牛大碗) was going to be the specialty. My sources indicated that the place had opened up only serving two versions of Beef Noodle Soup and Kirbie's post indicated that was true. Still, when Candice and I decided to meet up for lunch, we decided on checking the place out.

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Boy was the interior of the place bright!

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And yes, there was basically two beef noodle soups on the menu. From what little I know about Gansu cuisine; other than wishing I could try some "Silk Road Camel Hoof" and the various mutton dishes, it's the clear soup version of beef noodle soup that the region is known for. However, with only two items; other than cold dishes on the menu, we had to try both right?

One more thing. After my initial lunch with Candice, I mentioned the place to Lily, who is from Shanxi and loves her noodles….well, twist my arm and all that. So I ended up going twice in the space of a week. Though I really didn't take too many photos during my second visit. In terms of service; well, it's still a bit unorganized, but the folks are very nice.

So first, on my visit with Candice, there was some Liang Cai available. Very mild in flavor, the best item was probably the cucumbers. Still, nice and refreshing.

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The Clear Soup version also had the thinner noodle. During my first visit, the broth was rich, but very mild in flavor.

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The noodles? Well, from what I recall, hand pulled noodles usually have a good amount of gluten worked out of it, so having that perfect texture is a real skill. On the first visit, the broth was a bit weak and the noodles on the mushy side.

On my second visit, the broth was much darker.

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Perhaps missing that richness from my previous visit, but the flavor was much more assertive, more anise, a nice "ma" (numbing) sensation, though perhaps a bit heavy on the MSG. The noodles were also much better. Not too impressed with the beef which doesn't seemed to be braised in anything flavorful therefore lacking that nice taste. It was also a bit too tough for my taste on both visits.

I do prefer the "brisket" (aka braised beef) which uses noodles which are bit thicker. On my first visit it was much too doughy, but had vastly improved by the second visit.

Green China Grill 06 IMG_6211I enjoy a bit of pull with my noodles and on the second visit it had improved. The broth was decent; while not especially beefy there was nice anise, again slightly numbing, but also a bit too much MSG. There was a light touch of sour which brought things together well. It is not remarkable, but still good by San Diego standards. The beef in this version was much better, more beefy, nice and tender.

Green China Grill 07So now we wait and see….what else will Green China Grill have to offer. 

Also, it seems that the dough is kneaded by machine and then worked through a noodle rolling machine. Then it looks like it's folded and stretched and pulled a few times. Hopefully I'm wrong? Say it isn't so? I'll check more carefully next time. And that overuse of MSG? I hope they cure that….

Green China Grill
4688 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111
Open Daily – 11am – MN

PDX MISC: Pho Oregon, Saturday Market, Queen of Sheba

Ed (from Yuma) wants to thank Kirk and Cathy for keeping mmm-yoso!!! going year after year and letting him post today some stuff about Tina and his adventures in Portland OR.

Pho Oregon

We flew in on a Saturday and just wanted a simple inexpensive meal. The cool weather and light rain made soup inviting. So after taking the wrong freeway exit and driving around a bit, we arrived at Pho Oregon: IMG_0709

In a previous life, it had probably been a large Chinese restaurant and still had a lot of space and tables: IMG_0710

Tina suggested that we start with Tau hu ky: IMG_0713

It was really good. Crunchy fried tofu skin, mild dipping sauce, and seafoody interior: IMG_0715

And we both liked our soups. I had Pho Dac Biet: IMG_0716

The broth was mildly beefy, slightly sweet, and pleasant. But not great. The noodles, however, were plentiful and not all clumped up, and the meats were quite good: IMG_0723

The rare steak was flavorful, the fatty brisket and flank fall apart tender and rich, the soft chewy tendon abundant, and the meatballs nicely seasoned and not rubbery. Just a tiny amount of tripe, but I couldn't complain.

Tina is fond of Hu Tieu Dac Biet, here served with a pleasant light and porky broth and plenty of perfect noodles: IMG_0718

While the shrimp were slightly overcooked, the fish balls were very tasty. I don't recall the pork liver (Tina wolfed it down), but the sliced pork was chewy and dry.

What made both of the soups even better were the abundant herbs and vegetables: IMG_0717
Look at all of the sawtooth and cilantro. Jalapeño and basil hiding somewhere on the plate but not in the picture.

So a week later, on another rainy evening, we returned. First, Banh Xeo – which certainly looked good flanked by all those herbs: IMG_0946

Opened up, however, not as impressive: IMG_0948

Yeh, plenty of bean sprouts, but few shrimp and they were sliced in half lengthwise. The two half slices of pork chewy and flavorless. Not great.

Tina decided to play safe and have the Pho Dac Biet. It was as good as previously. I decided to test the kitchen by ordering Bun Mam: IMG_0951

The bowl looked pretty good, but it lacked the strong pungent fragrance of good Bun Mam. I could imagine Kirk taking one whiff, looking sad, and shaking his head. The broth tasted mostly of fish sauce, somewhat thin and slightly acrid, and there was no shrimp paste among the condiments to funkify it.

On the positive side, look at the abundant rau thom; that's a huge portion of herbs and vegetables, all fresh and tasty: IMG_0950

And the soup was packed with good noodles, vegetables, and proteins. Everything, except for the pork, was really first rate. The shrimp were not overcooked, the catfish had no hint of muddiness and tasted especially fresh, and the eggplant couldn't have been better. All stirred together, the Bun Mam looked like this: IMG_0955

Saturday Market

Many years ago, a freeway ran along the western bank of the Willamette River in Portland. Unbelievably, they tore down that freeway and replaced it with a long green park that stretches for over a mile, separating and uniting downtown Portland and the river: IMG_0726

Called the Governor Tom McCall Waterfront Park to honor the visionary environmentalist who helped convert the Willamette from polluted sewer into the beautiful river that it is today (picture looking upstream from Willamette Falls): IMG_2022

McCall Park is a great place for sitting on benches, walking around, IMG_1683

or racing Segways: IMG_1736

Speaking of segues, at the north end of the park, adjacent to the Burnside Bridge, IMG_1723

on Saturdays (and Sundays too) for most of the year, you can find the Saturday Market: IMG_1685

In large part, the market is much like it was when Kirk visited nearly10 years ago.

There is still a small bandstand IMG_1715

and all sorts of handcrafts and art. For some reason or another I didn't photograph any of the beautiful and interesting artworks, but I did take some pictures of a few locally made T-shirts. Some of the shirts have typical funny slogans, IMG_0737

others are unique to Portland, IMG_0738

and some are perfect for a foodblog: IMG_0739

All this looking around and walking made us hungry, so we went to the food court area: IMG_0943

Numerous choices of all kinds of cuisines, but the Beirut Catering booth seemed to be doing a good business, and Tina and I were in the mood: IMG_0732

I ordered a shawarma and Tina the falafel sandwich. The pita bread for each of the sandwiches was warmed separately on a flat top: IMG_0729

The shawarma showed up first: IMG_0731

It was really good. The lamb had some gamy flavor, a bit of char, and just enough tenderness.

As we were tasting it, the man (it was a one-man show) scooped out two greenish balls of chickpea mush, and dropped them into bubbling hot oil: IMG_0728

When the falafel sandwich showed up, it looked magnificent: IMG_0736

And it tasted great. The exterior was dark and crunchy, the interior nicely balanced between smooth and coarse. The pita, falafel, tahini, tabouli, and veggies made memorable food music together. Outstanding! 

We found a table nearby, sat down, had some conversations with other folks (people still talk to strangers in Portland), and watched the procession of beautiful well-trained dogs that strolled through and alongside the market. It was like a dog show. Of course, Tina and I forgot to take any pictures of the dogs. So, to make up for that, here is a picture of a local out walking his goat: IMG_2010

Portland is weird, and we had a great time.

The Queen of Sheba

My first experience of Ethiopian food took place well over 30 years ago in Portland at Jarra’s, which I believe was the first Ethiopian restaurant in the area. All I remember was a warm and gracious owner/manager/waiter who served us a fall apart tender and fiery hot lamb shank. OMG good.

Anyway, Tina and I were in the mood for Ethiopian, and our friend Joanie told us that her family has been enjoying the Queen of Sheba for years. As you can see, the restaurant is in the fuzzy part of Portland: IMG_0957

The menu offered a page of vegetarian choices, IMG_0959

and a page of meat options: IMG_0958

I really wish that we had been able to visit this restaurant several times and try some entrées that I don't recall seeing in San Diego Ethiopian restaurants, like fish stew, chickpea cracker stew, lentils and okra, etc.

Especially interesting to us were the numerous mushroom options, so we ordered chicken and mushrooms in the milder alicha sauce and a combination of vegetarian sides.

As expected, the meal arrived covering a large thin injera pancake, which had a pleasant touch of sour tang.

We loved the chicken and mushrooms; a nice balance of textures, and the sauce was complex and interesting, giving the mushrooms, which soaked it up, an extra boost of flavor: IMG_0963

The yellow split peas were earthy and creamy: IMG_0964

The mustard greens, perfectly stewed, had a slight vegetal bitterness: IMG_0965

The golden brown shiro was a little soupy, but otherwise smooth and tasty.

The rather ordinary looking combination vegetables were well seasoned and presented a combination of textures and colors: IMG_0966

And the ordinary lettuce salad was fresh and lightly dressed IMG_0967

We left the Queen of Sheba full and happy, wishing we could return.

So I guess that's just one more reason why Tina and I have to get back to Oregon again (and again?).

Revisit: Song Huong – Mira Mesa

**** This location of Song Huong has been replaced by Saigon Corner

Time sure does fly, doesn't it? It's easy to forget about places you mean to revisit when they are tucked away from the main drag; such is the case with Song Huong almost hidden behind Vinh Hung Market. In fact, I'd totally forgotten about the place until someone mentioned that Chibugan, which had once occupied the Song Huong space; then moved next door had closed. It had me wondering about how Song Huong was doing. Then, as chance would have it, I heard someone recommending the Bun Bo Hue at Song Huong; I did recall it being decent, but nothing special. Still, you didn't have to remind me a third time…..

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I had decided to go into the office on a recent weekend to catch up on things, so I decided to take a little detour to Song Huong.

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Not sure if it was the strange set-up of the tables, which stretched from the booths…sticking out with four to six seats added. Or the sticky floors and tables. Or perhaps the overall mustiness of the place. It did seem that time has not been to good to Song Huong.

The women working here are very nice; though communication was a bit difficult at times. I did manage to order the Bun Bo Hue, now $7.

Song Huong Rev 04 Song Huong Rev 05This was kind of an odd bowl of BBH. First off, no pork hock. The flank was super tough and the small slices if what looked like pounded beef tasted a bit off and was very tough. No cha lua, just some fish cake. The broth seemed to be dressed up pho broth, with mild hints of spice, but almost no lemongrass or even that quick fixer upper mam tom flavor. It was scalding hot though.

Song Huong Rev 06I'm not sure what to say about the noodles, which were different from the bun I'm used to having in BBH. This was hard and very, very slippery….more like undercooked wheat based noodles. The greens and herbs were plentiful, but starting to discolor and mostly comprised of  lettuce.

I really don't know what to say about this bowl of soup. Maybe it was an off day? I gotta say, this was a rather strange bowl of Bun Bo Hue. It just seemed thrown together. It's been five years since I'd last visited….I don't think I'll be back anytime soon.

Song Huong
10550 Camino Ruiz
San Diego, CA 92126

San Sebastian: Monte Urgull and Bar Bergara (Gros)

After a nice self catered lunch and a short nap, the Missus decided we needed to "do something".

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Not quite sure what "something" was, we headed out. The streets had definitely gotten much more lively with both tourists and locals. As we arrived at the port, the Missus looked up, pointed, and said, "this is where we're going"…..

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She had pointed at the Statue of Christ at the top of Monte Urgull.

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So we headed off……

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There's a church located at the port and there was a wedding taking place. And you know….the (amateur) paparazzi just love a wedding.

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Especially when, whom I think is the Flower Girl, looks so adorable…..

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Even the washroom attendants have to watch!

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I really enjoyed the port area……even though there are touristy restaurants, the aquarium and all that, there's still a "lived in" feeling to the place.

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The walk up the Mount Urgull was nice….there weren't too many people to be found…..except small groups of young folks partaking of the…ahem….."cash crop".

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For some reason, I really like cannons….don't ask me why. Even when they seem to be pointed in the wrong direction. These were aimed back at the city.

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We really enjoyed the views…..

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I love this view….the Isla de Santa Clara (Santa Clara Island) which lies right in Concha Bay.

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06072015 1120 06072015 1121The view at the top is rather anti-climatic, though it's a nice little walk and the views are quite nice. I'm sure on a clear day, it's quite stunning. We'd always look to find the Cathedral, which rises quite distinctly above the San Sebastian skyline.

There was this pair of street kids…..ahem musicians we kept seeing; first earlier in the day at the bandstand; then outside Brexta Market asking for money. We saw them up here having a nice "smoke" as well. The Missus told me, "you know, when we start seeing the same people over and over, it's time to go, right?"

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But, there were more cannons to see!

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We headed back down on one of the trails which actually led back to Old Town.

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And so we ended up back in Old Town. The Missus however, wanted to see more. So I told Her, why not head on over then Urumea River to Gros; which kind of looks like San Diego with a decidedly Spanish vibe. I was told this is San Sebastian's version of Surf City. My bad for not taking photos of the beach….which…well, being from Hawaii and living in San Diego…you know…

Gros was interesting. It seemed more local. I had a recommendation which I followed up with some research of a tapas shop that had won a bunch of awards named Bar Bergara.

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So, I really thought it would not be right if I left San Sebastian without trying just regular tapas, the stuff from the counter.

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And there's no denying, the stuff here looked very pretty.

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As a whole it was a mixed bag, for me, the bread really did not stand up well. Especially with the Piquillo Peppers and the Anchovy. The flavors though, were quite good.

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The Foie Gras was very tasty; but again, the bread had suffered from sitting around.

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The one item that really did well was the "De Pato al Calvados", basically duck in a apple brandy in puff pastry. The pastry held up quite well, the pine nuts really added to this this.

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Overall, a very inexpensive meal, though I'm not sold on the counter top tapas. Very nice folks, the place has the feel of a fast casual restaurant. And while I'm still not sold on the stuff lying along the bar….the presentation at Bergara is quite stunning.

Bar Bergara
General Artetxe Kalea 8
San Sebastian, Spain

06072015 D60 152 06072015 D60 157As we walked back….of to try more tapas; it became quite clear. There's unfinished business here; we'd arrived on the wrong days, there was much more to see and eat, we'd have to return some day soon. And all of this before our last stop of the day!

San Sebastian: Brexta Market, Aitor Lasa, and Galpasoro

We love exploring public markets whenever we travel. We were just a block away from Brexta Public Market, so we were obviously going to pay them a visit. Along the side of the two large market buildings have been turned into a shopping center……

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There's a nice produce "market" set-up alongside the buildings.

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And heading down below the shopping center…..

06072015 1056 06072015 1025You'll find a wonderful meat and fish market, with tons of stalls. The selection is quite amazing, especially the various charcuterie, cheese, and cuts of meat. You could literally spend and hour or more just wandering around. There are prepared food stalls and vendors selling all sorts of Basque food items.

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06072015 1019 06072015 1032We soon left the market however, as the Missus wanted to check out places out side of the Old Town. So we headed out. Past the statue of the Drummer and the Plaque with the lyrics to La Marcha de San Sebastian, which I was told is San Sebastian's City Anthem. Each January 20th marks Tamboradda in the city. From midnight on the 19th to midnight on the 20th drums pound constantly and there's….well, a party of course, which lasts (gasp) 24 hours! It must be quite and event.

06072015 1033  06072015 1038 As we expected; San Sebastian Centro is different from the Old Town. But, there was still an old world charm; just with more coffee shops, and some nice, upscale, shopping.  We enjoyed just meandering up Calle de Urbieta, first taking a short break for a cup of coffee. 06072015 D60 130 Before arriving at the impressive Catedral del Buen Pastor de San Sebastián (Cathedral of the Good Shepherd). The Basilica of Santa Maria del Coro lies almost directly across from the Cathedral. It is said that you can even see the doors of the Cathedral from the stairs of the Basilica.

We took a walk inside the massive cathedral which was rather austere. It was very quiet in contrast to the busy traffic on the street outside.

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Leaving the cathedral, we headed back to the Old Town. Of course the subject of lunch came out. We were getting hungry and it was still early. So we decided to self cater. I'd read about a market named Aitor Lasa right across the street from Brexta Market.

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The rather tiny little market stocked a nice variety of cheese and charcuterie.

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And we ended up purchasing some cheese, head cheese, eggs, and chorizo.

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While paying for our groceries, we noticed some beautiful mushrooms. One especially caught my eye since I'd never seen it before.

06072015 1064 06072015 1059The mushrooms are displayed in the top right of the photo above. I was told they were "cepes"……fresh porcinis! How could I not get a few? With all of this, bread was a must, so we asked the woman working the produce. At first she tried to sell us the bread stocked at the store. But soon enough, she wrote down the name of a place and drew a dot on my nap.

We loved the folks working here.

Aitor Lasa
Aldamar Kalea 12
San Sebastian, Spain

Next we decided to head back down the stairs of Brexta Market and head for a stand that had caught our attention during our earlier visit.

06072015 1019 06072015 1195The gentleman behind the counter was so friendly, handing out samples to everyone. We had decided to taste some of the olive oils for sale and decided to get a very nice Arbequina Olive Oil; mildly grassy with a nice pepperiness to it. We also got some olives; sin sel….light on the salt. The olive was perfect; we finished the last of it in Bordeaux right before flying back to Madrid.

We also headed off to the fish market portion of the market which we had skipped earlier.

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We loved the displays….some of them seemed artistic and somewhat whimsical to us. What do you think?

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We then headed back upstairs and off to getting some bread.

The shop was located right on Calle Mayor. We'd passed it a couple of times, but never even noticed it. There was no missing it on this morning. Check out the line!

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So we stood in line and eventually got our bread. It was quite good; perhaps not on the level of what we had in Bordeaux, but it sure did well for lunch.

Galparsoro Okindegia
Calle Mayor 6
San Sebastian, Spain

06072015 1077 06072015 1088And while the kitchen wasn't too well stocked; luckily I had the olive oil. There was salt, pepper, and also some red wine vinegar. Still, this was so good! The Missus still mentions the earthy, yet mellow flavor of these. It turned out to be a nice, simple spread. Quick with minimal prep and clean-up.

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After I cleaned up, it was time for a short nap……

What’s the Missus Craving? Tamales from El Salvador Pupuseria y Restaurante

The Missus has a weakness for tamales. And even though She'd consumed quite a bit over the Xmas holiday…..it was just not enough. She rolled out of bed one morning and told me She "needed"; yes "needed" some tamales. Specifically tamales from El Salvador Pupuseria y Restaurante. Now, based on my last visit to the place, I really wasn't into it. But there was no denying the Missus. So I figured, no pupusas for me

  Craving El Salvador Pupuseria 01 Craving El Salvador Pupuseria 02As with my previous visits, the women working here are quite friendly….so I just ignored the terrible curtido and the slightly stale chips this time around. And the Missus started things off with some Plantano Frito.

Craving El Salvador Pupuseria 04 Craving El Salvador Pupuseria 03Nicely fried; just sweet enough, not greasy. That crema was nice and mild and paired well with the plantains. The frijoles however, were gummy and bland, not a great combination for me when it comes to beans. The Missus got one chicken and one pork tamale….She actually prefers Salvadoran Tamales; wrapped in banana leaf, or even Guatemalan Chuchitos, to the standard issue Mexican style tamales. The Missus really enjoyed the pork tamales and had me order four more to go….for later. So it must have fixed the craving!

I ordered the Yuca Frita con Chicharron. Fried yucca…fried pork….fried…..

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That fried yucca was a work of art. It was just perfectly fried; crisp exterior, nice moist interior. Totally delici-yoso! The pork was not so great. It was quite lean making the meat quite dry and tough. It was also too salty. The faux curtido and the veggies really didn't do much else for the dish. Still, that yucca made me happy enough…..

If we're coming back again the next time the Missus gets a tamale itch; it'll have to be yucca frita and something else.

El Salvador Pupuseria y Restaurante
3824 University Ave
San Diego, CA 92105

Midweek Meanderings: (Blue) Korea House Becoming Prime Grill, Another 99 Ranch Market Opening in Kearny Mesa, and Mama’s Grill Closes

Some openings and closings for hump day.

(Blue) Korea House is Becoming Prime Grill:

IMG_6278 IMG_6279At least that's what the posted piece of paper says. You really couldn't miss seeing the façade for Korea House was gone. So we'll see about this one…here's hoping for some stellar Korean BBQ – I'll ping my sources to get more info. With this parking lot, it'll take some really good food to draw people in…here's hoping for the best.

4620 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111

The Former Albertsons (and Haggen) is Becoming 99 Ranch Market:

I really couldn't put Haggen there, because it was only open for such a short time. According to Eater San Diego, it's now going to be 99 Ranch Market! So we'll have two locations within a couple of miles?

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Actually, I'd love a Gelson's; but figured the area would be the wrong demographic. And BTW "CC", there's supposed to be a 99 Ranch Market coming to 505 Telegraph Canyon Road as well. I'm sure welcomed news for our friends in the South Bay.

5950 Balboa Ave
San Diego, CA 92117

Mama's Grill has closed:

I was planning on doing a sandwich follow-up on a couple of places in Clairemont/Kearny Mesa, so I dropped by Mama's Grill and found the place stripped down and closed.

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I thought they made a decent sandwich, but I guess they couldn't keep up with all the other fast and not-so-fast food places in the strip mall.

7420 Clairemont Mesa Blvd
San Diego, CA 92111

Thanks for reading!