Chartres (Before Covid) – Chartres Cathedral and Lunch at La Table du Marche

Here's another quick pre-Covid travel post. 

On the second day of our short visit to Paris, the Missus wanted to explore a bit. We had visited Versailles on a previous trip, so this time around I thought we'd check out Chartres and the Cathedral, often said to be the best Gothic Cathedral in Europe.

Getting there was quite easy from Gare Montparnasse.

IMG_3109

And it seems that everyone is invited to take the one hour ride to Chartres.

And once there; well, it's easy to find your way to the Cathedral.

IMG_3110

You really can't miss it.

While walking to the Cathedral we passed this amazing mural.

IMG_3111 (2) IMG_3116 (2)  Doing some research, I found that the mural is of Jean Moulin a hero of the French Resistance in World War II who lived in Chartres. Read more about him in the link to the Wikipedia page above.

The Cathedral is indeed grand. It is said that there were four to five churches on this spot, dating back to the 4th century!

There is quite a bit to see if you have the time. We just decided to stroll around and enjoy some of the highlights.

There's a worn statue in Place de la Cathedrale. It is of Fulbert of Chartres who was Bishop of the Cathedral when it burned in 1020. Fulbert devoted his time to rebuilding the Cathedral which was completed around 1145.

IMG_3117

IMG_3164

IMG_3128

There are beautiful Rose Windows over every entrance.

IMG_3130 (2)

The Church is dedicated to Mary and there are signs of that everywhere.

IMG_3139
IMG_3139

IMG_3140 (2) IMG_3163  Many pilgrims come to the church to see the Black Madonna (above). There's some really good information on why the Madonna is black here. But you might say, the Madonna pictured above isn't black. Well, several years back the Cathedral was part of a huge restoration project and all those years of soot and such was removed from the statue; it was very controversial to say the least.

IMG_3141 (2)

A few blocks from the Cathedral is the Marché aux Légumes – the produce market. And since it was Saturday, we took some time to check ot out.

IMG_3143
IMG_3143

IMG_3151

IMG_3147

It's always fun visiting these places and watching the locals go about their daily lives…..

IMG_3149

By this point we were getting a bit hungry. Right at the edge of the market is La Table du Marché – the Market Table. So we thought why not?

IMG_3161

IMG_3152

The staff was very friendly and welcoming. At places like this, it's always helpful to check out the plat du jour….and we ended up ordering two of the daily specials.

The friendly woman working was delighted that the Missus ordered the Andouillette, which She had loved in Lyon.

IMG_3158 (2)

While not quite at that level; it was literally bursting with offal-y goodness.

IMG_3160 (2)

I was thrilled to see Boudin Blanc as a daily special.

IMG_3154 (2)

And while, like the Missus, this wasn't quite as good a my favorite, it was quite mild, but nicely sautéed and I enjoyed the dressing on the greens.

The service was very warm; the prices, since we're used to Paris prices seemed like a bargain; 10 Euros for the Andouillette and just 7 for the Boudin Blanc!!!

La Table du Marché
11 Place Billard
28000 Chartres, France

We left satisfied and ready for a nap when we returned to Paris!

Paris (Before Covid) – Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Terroirs d’Avenir, Fou de Pâtisserie, and Dinner at Fleur de Pavé

*** Yet another condensed post of our trip in November, 2019    

As we strolled thru Passage du Grand Cerf, it really looked like the Missus still wanted to explore. And so, by the time we hit Rue Bachaumont, where this pooch was having a great time fetching the Frisbee, I decided to make another stop.

IMG_3055 (2)  IMG_3060 We pass the Church of Saint Eustache on a daily basis when we're in the area and had never visited, so I thought this might be a good time to check it out. There was also something I wanted to see.

The church took a century to build, from 1532 – 1632 and contains one of the largest organs in France; the nave is humongous!

The interior of the church is quite grand and I'd read about the stained glass and had one set specifically in mind.

The church is located right next to Les Halles, which was Paris's central market for almost 800 years. So, of course they would be benefactors of the church. In fact the professional pork butchers association, the "Corporation des Charcutiers" has their own chapel. When was the last time you saw sausages and a pig in stained glass?

IMG_3057

This sculpture by Raymond Mason commemorates the closing of Les Halles; it's titled "Le départ des fruits et légumes du coeur de Paris, le 28 février 1969" ("The departure of fruits and vegetables from the heart of Paris, February 28, 1969").

IMG_3065

IMG_3059_02
IMG_3059_02
IMG_3059_02

There's beautiful stained glass and some beautiful art work at Saint-Eustache; we'll definitely visit again one day…..hopefully.

The Missus really enjoyed this stop and wanted to keep on going; so we ended up walking all the way to Sacré-Cœur!

IMG_3066 (2)

And enjoyed the view.

IMG_3068

We were getting a bit hungry on the walk down and decided to make a couple of stops.

On Rue du Nil, along with the very popular Frenchie empire, is a group of shops which includes a cheesemonger, a butcher, and of course a boulangerie called Terroirs d’Avenir. So we made a croissant stop at the bakery.

IMG_3072

We then headed back down to Rue Montorgueil and to a place I'd read about named Fou de Pâtisserie.

IMG_3080

This specialty shop is a conglomeration of curated pastries form some of Paris's most well known pastry chefs like Pierre Hermé.

The pastries looked beautiful and of course the Missus had a difficult time choosing just one.

IMG_3073

But She finally made a decision and we had some tea which we took to one of the two small tables outside.

While the croissant fell short; nice texture, but the butter-salt ratio wasn't quite to our taste…..

IMG_3077
IMG_3077 IMG_3076  The Missus loved Her choice, called
L'Equinoxe. So, here's another place I'm sure we'll return to.

Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Terroirs d'Avenir
3 Rue du Nil
75002 Paris, France

Fou de Pâtisserie
45 Rue Montorgueil
75002 Paris, France

After this we took a well earned break (nap). For dinner I had selected a restaurant that had just opened during the summer of 2019 and had created a bit of a buzz; Fleur de Pavé. Folks sang praises of this restaurant; the chef Sylvain Sendra had garnered a Michelin Star at his former restaurant, Les Itinéraires which he closed in 2017. He and his wife spent the next, almost two years travelling the globe and exploring various cuisines. The result of which is Fleur de Pavé. The restaurant is also very vegetable friendly as it gets much of it's produce from Asafumi Yamashita a farmer who only sells his produce to certain selected chefs of his choosing.

IMG_3105

We were really looking forward to this meal. The restaurant was lovely, the staff very courteous, though service was quite slow. It actually took 30 minutes after we finished our meal and a "L'addition, s'il vous plaît" from me to get our check. Of course, the place is new; and as of 2020 they have received a Michelin Star, so I'm figuring they've straightened that out.

We decided to order form the menu and things started out with a trio of amuse:

IMG_3082

IMG_3083

IMG_3088

From top to bottom; a Parmesian Tart with Tzaziki and Carrot; Blakc Rice Crisp with Labneh and Eggplant Caviar; and the thinly sliced Cauliflower with Madagascar Vanilla and Salt….which looked lovely and had a wonderful texture, but was a bit too sweet for our taste.

Up next was the "Scottish Bread", which looked like Parker House rolls…….but was a nice fluffy brioche.

IMG_3085

We were excited to try the Salade du Jardin M Yamashita, which was topped with aged Parmesan. 

IMG_3089

The dressing could have used more acidity.

The Kabocha Carbonara with Mimolette sounded interesting.

IMG_3095

Like other dishes; this was on the sweeter end of things and there wasn't enough textural contrasts for us….the dish just seemed to be mushy.

Our favorite dish of the night – the Scallop Carpaccio with Oyster Sorbet and Sea Urchin – so many complex flavors.

IMG_3093

That worked together well.

Though the Roasted Monkfish with Pig Ear Tabbouleh and Red Wine Sauce was a bit much.

IMG_3100

IMG_3097

The Missus did enjoy the dessert and the wine pairing though.

IMG_3102
IMG_3102

Overall an interesting dinner; the place seems to be trying really hard and the presentations were wonderful……and I guess that paid off with a Michelin Star.

Fleur de Pavé
5 Rue Paul Lelong
75002 Paris, France

IMG_3108

Paris (Before Covid) – Revisits to Jefrey’s and Boulangerie Régis Colin and Lunch at Artisan de la Truffe BHV

**** I know that "FOY" Kerri has been kind of looking forward to these posts; so here goes

Man, November of 2019 seems so long ago….. I've kind of held back on these posts; but thought I'd just better get them done. I'm going to do rather condensed posts. This was a trip the Missus was really looking forward to; Her favorite city; Paris, travel to Israel, Jordan, and Provence. And though it didn't end up quite the way we planned (more on that later) it was still quite memorable.

We arrived in Paris at around 730pm, which, since we'd been to Paris a couple of times already wasn't a big deal. We caught the RER from CDG and got off at Les Halles. We were staying at the same apartment that we'd booked for our last stay in Paris, so we knew the drill. How to pick up the keys; where the apartment was located, etc……

IMG_8991
IMG_8991

We'd eaten on our flight to Paris; but really wanted a nightcap; so we headed off to a cocktail bar we enjoyed on previous visits; Jefrey's.

**** Jefrey's has closed

IMG_3016

IMG_3016

They were having some special cocktails during this week; so we tried a few…..

IMG_3012
IMG_3012

IMG_3015

And of course I enjoy Monkey Shoulder; so we enjoyed ourselves. Folks here are very welcoming and since it was a Thursday night the place wasn't overly busy.

Jefrey's
14 Rue Saint Sauveur
75002 Paris France

We enjoy Paris at the end of November……

IMG_3020

As the Christmas season swings into gear.

IMG_3019_02

The next morning I was up early as usual. The Missus wanted a croissant from a place we had enjoyed during our last trip; Boulangerie Régis Colin, so I headed on out.

IMG_3022

**** Boulangerie Régis Colin has closed

IMG_3023

Sadly, the croissant was disappointing this time around. Unevenly baked, lacking in butter, and too doughy…..

IMG_3024

Boulangerie Régis Colin
53 Rue Montmartre
75002 Paris, France

After having our light "breakfast" the Missus needed Her caffiene (and people watching fix), so we headed on down the street to Café Montorgueil for our Café Allonge.

IMG_3028

And to check out folks heading out for the day and doing their "morning stuffs"…….this pooch was focused on something in the gutter…must have smelled good.

IMG_3027 IMG_3033

Café Montorgueil
55 Rue Montorgueil
75002 Paris, France

And then we headed out….with no plan, we just wanted to wander around and take in Paris. You know, the Flâneur/Flâneuse thing. We headed up Rue Saint-Denis to start things out. I'm sure you've heard of the Arc de Triomphe, but did you know there's one located on Boulevard St Denis. The Porte Saint-Denis was originally the site of a gate of the city walls of the city. The arch was built in 1672 by François Blondel to honor and celebrate the King Louis XIV's victories in the Rhine and in Franche-Comté.

IMG_3034 (2)

From here we wandered over to the 4th and then the 3rd Arrondissements…….

IMG_3038

Until we were getting a bit hungry. Since we had enjoyed eating at Maison de la Truffe during an earlier visit, I thought we'd hit up Artisan de la Truffe located in the BHV Department Store.

IMG_3039
IMG_3039

We got the Foie Gras with Truffle along with the Charcuterie with Truffle "Planche". For several reasons, we didn't enjoy this as much. The temperature of the foie gras, cheese, and charcurterie were too cold, the bread seemed to be getting a bit "old"….it just didn't do it for us. But hey, we did get enough calories to keep us going for the rest of the day, right?

IMG_3042
IMG_3042

Artisan de la Truffe (in the BHV Department Store – 3rd Floor)
52 rue de Rivoli
75004 Paris, France

From here we headed off and just enjoyed the city…..

IMG_3045

And of course we had to see what was going on at Notre Dame……there didn't seem to be much happening on this day.

IMG_3050

We eventually headed back up to the area where we were staying. While walking thru Passage du Grand Cerf…..

IMG_3053

I had an idea for another stop…….

Stay Tuned!

Roadtrip (During Covid-19) – Returning to Cambria and a Revisit to Madeline’s

Just trying to finish up posts on our May road trip here. 

After having a wonderful dinner at Les Petites Canailles in Paso Robles, then enjoying a nice walk the following morning at Montana de Oro State Park, we headed to our next destination. We had enjoyed Cambria so much during our November road trip that we decided to return for an evening. 

It was a bit early for check-in when we arrived, so I headed over to the East Village where the Missus "caught up" on some shopping at the charming little shops.

IMG_2916
IMG_2916
IMG_2916

Not sure why this pooch was so tuckered out, but he didn't move a muscle as customers came and went……it was quite amusing.

IMG_9054

We decided to pick up some snacks for lunch and headed over to Soto's True Earth Market.

IMG_9057  IMG_9067 It's a lovely little market with everything from sandwiches and cheese, to local produce and snacks. Folks were very friendly and we enjoyed the little shop…..I even purchased a shopping bag.

Soto's True Earth Market
2244 Main St.
Cambria, CA 93428

I had noticed tables and seating arranged outside the charming Cambria Historical Museum which was closed due to the pandemic.

IMG_9063

It was a beautiful day, so we decided to have our snacks here.

IMG_9058 IMG_9062  Though we did ask permission from the local "security detail".

Soon enough I received a text message letting me know our room was ready. Just like Paso Robles, we were doing a repeat stay….we had really enjoyed the El Colibri Hotel & Spa on our previous visit to Cambria, the staff at El Colibri are very welcoming and friendly, we enjoyed the quiet location as well, just a short walk to the West Village where I had made dinner reservations at yet another "repeat" location. We had enjoyed our meal at Madeline's during our November road trip, so the Missus and I decided for another visit. It was just as good….so I won't dwell too much on the details and leave you mostly with photos.

IMG_9068
IMG_9068
IMG_9068
IMG_9068

The Missus loves the scallops and the "Spanish Octopus", but also really enjoyed the seasonal salad……. Which had….a bacon vinaigrette.

IMG_9076

So guess who had to make bacon vinaigrette when we got home? Actually, it was pretty easy as our Server asked the chef about the recipe…..we didn't get a recipe; but got a ingredient list.

They even split our main; the Aubergine Gratin without us having to ask.

IMG_9078

The weakest dish of the meal as for some reason the bechamel really didn't bring out the flavors of the eggplant…….

But that's ok as the other dishes were wonderful.

IMG_9079

And the Missus enjoyed the Chocolate Truffle Mousse Cake for dessert, while I enjoyed a nice Tawny Port.

IMG_9080 IMG_9081  And we got the same lovely outdoor table as on our previous visit. When I mentioned that we enjoyed this table, we were instructed to request "Patio 1" the next time we visit. And….I think there will be a next time. There's something about the vibe and staff that we really enjoy here.

Madeline's Restaurant & Wine Tasting Room
788 Main St.
Cambria, CA 93428

We finished up dinner and walked back to the hotel. Since this was at the end of May, the sun wouldn't set until after 8pm. So, like we did on our previous visit to Cambria we took the short walk down to Shamel Community Park and took in the beautiful sunset.

IMG_9082
IMG_9082
IMG_9082

IMG_9090
IMG_9090 IMG_9096  A perfect end to our day. Back at the room, I had a brew as a nightcap as I will often do on trips. It always gives me time to think about and ponder how blessed we are…….especially during these times to have our health, each other, and even though we'd obviously love to be in Paris, I've come to appreciate a part of California that I think is vastly underrated.

Thanks for stopping by!

Roadtrip (During Covid-19) – New Frontiers Natural Marketplace (Solvang) and Les Petites Canailles (Paso Robles)

We had enjoyed our time in Solvang and this was the view we awakened to at the Hotel Corque.

IMG_8928

It was quite charming in some ways…..during the night before we saw an older couple sitting on the patio having a Dominos Pizza, just enjoying themselves….later during this morning I spied them sitting outside once again having their morning coffee….it's all good, different strokes for different folks and all that.

We saw a market on the way into town; called New Frontiers Natural Marketplace that we decided to stop into before heading on our way. It's really somewhat "Whole Foods" like, but perhaps even better focused on snacks…

IMG_2819

They even had Ojai Pixie Tangerines which had just come into season.

IMG_2818

However, unlike the watermelon and cherries we were already lugging along the Missus wasn't too interested.

So, I just grabbed some light snacks while the Missus went and got us coffee…..

IMG_8930_03

I'm not quite sure what "Bird Friendly" coffee is, but this was not bad.

IMG_0315

And the rest of the "snacks" I had held me over until dinner…..

IMG_8933

The folks here were so very friendly…….that I'd gladly come back here again…..after all, who doesn't want to be "bird friendly".

New Frontiers Natural Marketplace
1984 Old Mission Dr.
Solvang, CA 93463

Solvang seems to have changed a bit since we last visited.

We made the hour-and-half drive up to Paso Robles with no problem. Our hotel wasn't quite ready for an early check-in, but that wasn't an issue as the Missus had really enjoyed Paso Robles the last time we visited. As on the last visit, we were staying at the Oxford Suites a couple of blocks from downtown. We parked our car and headed up to downtown…..

IMG_8935

All the while enjoying all those familiar sites from our previous visit.

IMG_8951

Once arriving in the charming downtown area around the city park, the Missus immediately headed to the General Store…..where one could spend a good amount of time (and money).

IMG_8937

IMG_2829
IMG_2829

Yes, it touristy, but the folks working here are so nice…..and it's full of things you never knew you needed……

IMG_8956 IMG_2833 It's a fun stop, at least for us……we ended up visiting twice! It's just a nice place to stop and visit.

General Store Paso Robles
841 12th St.
Paso Robles, CA 93446

Our friends love the cookies from the Brown Butter Cookie Company, though we've never actually bought them for ourselves….so that was an obvious stop for us as well.

IMG_2835

And on this trip, the Missus wandered in and out of various shops….it gave me the chance to take a look at the Downtown City Park.

IMG_8953
IMG_8953 IMG_8944 I wondered about the statue next to the Paso Robles History Museum of Ignacy Jan Padereweski, wondering why this Polish musician and composer is featured here in Paso Robles. It's quite the story, Paderewski was born in Poland in 1860, while in his late 20's he became well known in places like Vienna, Paris, and London. His talents were in high demand and over work resulted in problems with his hands. His friends in San Francisco recommended a stay in Paso Robles, with treatments from the hot springs to bring relief to his pain. He eventually bought property in Paso Robles on which he planted Zinfandel and started a winery, York Mountain Winery. His wine and music are celebrated in Paso Robles each November at the Paderewski Festival. IMG_2842

After making one last stop, to restock on olive oil from Pasoilvo Olive Oil, we headed back to the hotel and our room was ready. We took a nice breather before dinner.

As for dinner; well, after our last experience, I spent a bit more time looking over menus and such and decided on a fairly modern French restaurant named Les Petites Canailles. We opted for outdoor seating and this being a Monday didn't expect the place to be very busy. Well, we were quite surprised when we arrived for our reservations and seeing the place almost full! Tables were nice spread out and we sat outside the tent area for more circulation.

The staff to customer ratio was amazing as was our Server, "Ally" who knew all the dishes, preparations, wine, by heart. She told me that she often eats here on her days off….that says something. The other thing we quickly noticed was that all the customers knew each other and the staff by name. I guess Monday is the local's night to eat out.

Even though it seemed like we were part way into the parking lot, we loved our table. In fact, one of the women on the other table told me, "you have the best outdoor seats"! It was interesting to watch the flow of customers…….

IMG_8961

And by the time we placed our order, the place was full.

IMG_2850

We had pretty much decided on our dishes for the evening, we'd be sharing four appetizers and a "side". Ally took our order and said, "wonderful, it's a five course meal"! And we left it to her and the kitchen to decide the order of the dishes. One note, just to give you a hint on the service here….our plates and silverware were changed with every course!

We started with the Jaune et Rouge (Yellow and Red) Endive Salad ($17).

IMG_8958

This was very refreshing, the endive had been nicely prepared, crisp, cold, the bitterness smoothed out and went quite well with the classical pairing of a blue cheese, in this case Fourme d'Ambert.

The next dish was superb; the Rabbit Terrine ($17).

IMG_8959

Served with wonderfully crisp and smoky toasts; the terrine was surprisingly light in texture, it had a mild gamey-sweetness…..this was so good!

The Octopus "a la Basquiase" ($22) was solid in preparation.

IMG_2849

Served over chorizo veggies, with tapioca chips, the texture was perfect…..the highlite of this dish was the wonderful sweet-pungent black garlic oil paired with a nice parsley oil. It just went so well with this dish.

Hands down; my favorite dish of the night was the Beef Tartare ($24).

IMG_8965 IMG_8969  Served at the perfect temperature; made in a fairly classic style, capers, shallots, and with the perfect amount of pungency from horseradish. The acidity helped cut the richness of the dish. The beef had a tender and almost creamy texture…..and of course that confit egg yolk just added more creaminess to the dish…..this was just a decadent version of steak tartare.

We had also wanted to try the Grilled Asparagus ($14) with Confit Egg Yolk.

IMG_2854

This is on the menu as a side dish. It fell kind of short as the asparagus sorely needed more acidity to bring out the sweetness in the asparagus.

This was my favorite meal of the trip. From the service to the presentation, to the wonderful flavors, an excellent meal overall. When Ally asked us about dessert we told her we'd be going to the Alchemist Garden for liquid refreshment, she laughed and said "perfect. If you're there long enough you might even see me there!" Like I mentioned before, there's something about the vibe and people in Paso Robles that we love. IMG_8960

Les Petites Canailles
1215 Spring St.
Paso Robles, CA 93446

And I'm pretty sure we'll return here.

Roadtrip (During Covid-19) – Sensorio, Dinner at BL Brasserie, and Cocktails at The Alchemist Garden

When planning for our trip to Paso Robles I read about an art installation by Bruce Munro named Sensorio, a "field of light" exhibition made up of 58,000 solar powered fiber optic lights. I went ahead and decided to get VIP tickets which allowed us priority entrance at anytime, along with a private seating area, and a free drink each. I arrived right at opening time, which is before sunset….we went to the front of the line, got our temperatures checked, tickets checked, and then headed to the VIP section. I'm not really going to add much more….this is very visual, so I'll let the photos tell the story.

IMG_7582

IMG_7589

IMG_7594

As the sun started to set, we headed out and strolled the trails along the 15 acres of lights…..

IMG_7599

IMG_7609

IMG_7616

It was quite the experience watching all the lights "come alive" as the sun set.

IMG_7629

IMG_7637

We headed back to the VIP area; the Missus and I had a glass of white wine and then headed off to dinner.

This was a fun experience; if you're interested in checking it out, Sensorio had been closed for a while during the pandemic shutdown, but has now reopened and I believe the field of light will continue to at least September.

Sensorio
4380 CA-46
Paso Robles, CA 93446

For dinner we chose a highly recommended and beloved Paso Robles institution, Bistro Laurent. However, a while back, the restaurant changed concept and became BL Brasserie. I was told however, that the chef and management were still the same; so I made reservations. We arrived and walked into the restaurant, which freaked us out; even though Paso Robles was at an Orange Tier while San Diego was in Red, the dining room just looked packed. Luckily, I had reservations for outdoor dining, which was in sort of a tent, which kind of defeats the purpose in my mind; but this being November, it seems that no one wanted to eat outside.

IMG_7652

The Missus started with a glass of white, I had a glass of champagne and we placed our orders. Our Server wasn't the most friendly woman….I think she was a bit irritated that we were the only folks eating outdoors and she had to come outside to serve us, but whatever.

We started off with the Crispy Shrimp ($15.50).

IMG_7645

The shrimp was over-cooked and what I assumed were strips of phyllo dough where really almost burnt. 

Speaking of burnt; check out the "odd man out" Crispy Crab Croquettes ($17).

IMG_7646 IMG_7647  The one croquette was just about incinerated, really burnt and bitter….why would they serve something like that? I was thinking of calling our Server to complain and return this; but the Missus asked me to taste the other croquettes which had hardly any crab in it. Our Server was already not in a great mood serving us, so I figured let's just leave that croquette alone and see what happens……which was nothing……as it just sat there the whole meal.

Speaking of "interesting" service, a few minutes after receiving our croquettes our bread arrived.

IMG_7642
IMG_7642

Sadly the butter was ice cold……

Next up would be the "best" (it's all relative) of the night, the Crab and Avocado Salad ($15.50) 

IMG_7651

A bit heavy handed on the mayo and the balsamic reduction was way too strong and it just strong-armed what crab there was.

Our last dish was the Belgian Endive, Apples and Smoked Duck ($15.50).

IMG_7655

Three small strands of smoked duck……..I'll leave it there.

Dinner did take a while…….you know social distancing is great for separating tables and groups of people….it ain't so great when your Server seems to want to permanently social distance themselves from you. I'm wondering, was this an off night? Was the "B" team on…..that's bit of a stretch on a weekend night. The inside of the restaurant was packed; perhaps the kitchen and staff was overwhelmed? I had heard and read so many good things about Bistro Laurent, perhaps the change to a brasserie concept really changed things……. Quite sad overall.

BL Brasserie
1202 Pine St.
Paso Robles, CA 93446

We were kind of bummed…..we had really enjoyed Paso Robles so far. 

Yet, we still had one more stop for the evening. And the Alchemist Garden would totally turn our opinion of Paso Robles right back around!

The place was basically across the street from BL Brasserie and was fairly busy, but the bar area was empty and asked for seats there, which turned out to be an excellent move. The Mixologist was amazing, friendly, professional, efficient…… At this time, there was a requirement that food had to be ordered along with drinks. He quickly told us, "if you've had dinner already, just o for the popcorn", which is what we did.

IMG_7664 IMG_7665 He then asked us what we wanted to drink. I explained that I enjoyed a good Mezcal Old Fashioned, I love the smokiness, along with the bitter, etc. He told me, "no problem, leave it to me" and proceeded to make me a custom Mezcal Old Fashioned…..not just a plain Mezcal Old Fashion, but with a twist.

He brought out the "heavy equipment" and started work……..

It was quite a show to say the least.

IMG_7659
IMG_7659

I was worried that the drink would be too smoky for my taste; but it was nicely balanced, smoky but smooth, rich, nice acidity, just a hint of sweetness. Perhaps the best Old Fashion I'd ever had.

IMG_7661  IMG_7663 The Missus loved Her cocktail as well. We loved watching the mixologist work, such perfect coordination, minimal wasted motion….he entertained us….chatting while making a zillion cocktails for his other customers.

Funny how these experiences really mold your visit. And Paso Robles was back on our "revisit" list.

The Alchemists' Garden
1144 Pine St.
Paso Robles, CA 93446

After our cocktails we headed back to our room. Other than dinner, we'd had a great time in Paso Robles.

The next morning, it was time to head back home. We made one last stop at Spearhead Coffee, which did a pretty good job impressing the (coffee nerd) Missus. She said the pour over was not bad at all.

IMG_7666

IMG_7667

Spearhead Coffee
619 12th St.
Paso Robles, CA 93446

So I guess we would be heading back to Paso Robles……….sooner than we thought actually!

Thanks for reading!

Paris – Boulangerie Collet, Dinner at Pertinence, and the View She Never Tires Of

It had been a fun day so far and after taking a short break at the apartment; the Missus wanted to head on out again. So, off we went to the Marais, and resumed our "lèche-vitrine". We eventually came across a wonderful green space; Paris is full of these little parks. This one had a lovely garden, benches (of course), and wonderful waterfalls. I came to find out that this was Square du Temple.

IMG_1377

It was a lovely little oasis.

IMG_1379

On the way back to the apartment, the Missus said She was feeling a bit "peckish" and I mentioned checking out another Boulangerie right around the corner from the apartment, Maison Collet.

IMG_1383 IMG_1385And we got ourselves a croissant aux beurre to share. This was a bit overdone, hard, dry, and lacking in the amount of butter I enjoy.

Well, it was good to try. Another one for the books.

Boulangerie Collet
100 Rue Montorgueil
75002 Paris, France

We managed to get in a short nap, then got ready for dinner. We had reservations at a restaurant in the 7th Arrondissement, Pertinence, which held a Michelin star. As has been our habit in recent years, this one was helmed by a Japanese Chef, Ryunosuke Naito from Japan and Kwen Liew from Malaysia. The little restaurant serves only 14 covers a night!

The sun was still shining rather brightly as we finished our walk to the restaurant. It was the end of May (2019) and the sun doesn't set until past 930pm during this time of the year.

IMG_1389

It's a clean, spartan dining room and the only folks working were the two chefs!

IMG_1390_C

There is what looks like some kind of sleek manhole cover in the middle of the dining area, which turned out to be a hatch to the cave below. During our meal, the Chef had to run down to grab a bottle, the fellow eating at the other table went "ooooh" and looked at me humming the tune of Mission Impossible. I answered with "Monsieur James Bond"! And he cracked up….who said the French don't have a sense of humor?

Speaking of wine; we took the 6 course tasting menu (105/€). The Missus got the wine pairing, which cost a supplement of 70/€ and was enough for the both of us to share…..as for me; I got the caviar supplement at 30/€ which was worth every last bit of money.

IMG_1391

IMG_1392

After the wonderful and warm bread bites, the amuse was brought out; a Green Pea Foam, light as a feather, with a slight sweetness and tart from the kiwi jelly.

IMG_1395

And then the first dish……the Langostein which came with a Konbu Sauce and a Miso Sauce. Check out that caviar; which really complemented the plump, sweet-briney langostein.

IMG_1397

I preferred the konbu sauce with this as it heightened the nice seafood flavor. Also loved that nothing was over-seasoned.

The Missus loved this bottle of wine the best.

IMG_7811

Man, look at the size of that Foie Gras…….

IMG_1399

And yet, it was the thin slices of pickled daikon that really impressed me. It also was a nice foil to the rich-livery foie gras. Not a big fan of the Amaretto sauce though.

When the Red Mullet came out; I really didn't know what to think as it looked like a solid piece of fish; but it was amazing and my favorite dish of the meal.

IMG_1401

The skin was light, yet very crisp, it was a treat indeed. The flesh was perfectly moist and mild in flavor….cue in the caviar. The grilled lettuce had a nice sweetness to it; but it was the celery micro greens that were really amazing, packing quite a punch of flavor!

Next up, the pork neck, which was done medium rare – yes medium rare…..I trust places like Pertinence. And this was very tender, considering it was pork neck, and had a touch of anise lingering on the tongue.

IMG_7816

Man, I was pretty full after this……I usually leave dessert totally up to the Missus; but this time it was Roquefort with Umeboshi Caramel Camambert. How could I resist???

IMG_1403

IMG_1405 IMG_1407 This was a fine and enjoyable meal. Service was excellent and relaxed, the dishes well paced, quite impressive with the restaurant staffed with only the two chefs. It was well worth the price!

Pertinence
29 Rue de l'Exposition
75007 Paris, France

Since we like to eat rather early; our timing was perfect as we left the restaurant and headed up to Rue Saint-Dominique and then up Avenue de la Bourdonnais crossing the Seine on Pont d'Iéna to see the sight the Missus never tires of.

IMG_1410_C

And then we headed back to the apartment……

IMG_1416

And then off to sleep. Where I'm sure the Missus was dreaming of the "City of Lights".

IMG_1412

Thanks for stopping by!

Road Trip (During Covid-19) – Harmony, Cambria, and Dinner at Madeline’s

**** This is kind of a long one; so you might want to save it for when you more time to read.

We headed out from Morro Bay for Cambria where we'd be staying for two nights. But there was one stop to make. In doing my research for this trip, I'd come across a little town about 15 miles North of Morro Bay and 5 miles south of Cambria named Harmony. Population 18. Yep, you read that right, 18. At least that's what "Gladys the Town Cow" says.

IMG_1611 IMG_1615Once upon a time the community was a dairy settlement; originally established by Swiss and Italian immigrants. There was a lot of competition which led to intense rivalries; which eventually resulted in a killing, you can read about it here, along with how a desire to restore peace, the town was named "Harmony". Eventually, the creameries closed down. For many years, the only business in the one street, one block town was the post office. Now, it has a winery, and is home to a small group of artisans who produce pottery and blown glass. It has a fun, funky feel to it. Along with the Gladys the cow; there's the "Holy Cow" to the right which celebrates the history of the town.

IMG_7204
IMG_7204

IMG_7997 IMG_7212We spent about an hour in the town visiting the two businesses; the pottery shop and the glass works, purchasing a couple of gifts along the way.

There's also a Creamery and Dairy shop; basically an ice cream shop which was closed during our visit.

IMG_7214

IMG_1618 IMG_7211There's also a charming and plain adorable Chapel. After all; like the tag line goes for the Chapel's website goes: "Shouldn't every wedding begin in Harmony?"

You can read more about the venue here.

The little town was such a pleasant and fun surprise, we're glad we stopped by and will probably do it again in the future.

Harmony Pottery Works
2191 Old Creamery Rd.
Harmony, CA 93435
Hours:
Daily 10am – 5pm

Harmony Glassworks
2180 Old Creamery Rd.
Harmony, CA 93435
Hours:
Daily 9am – 5pm

IMG_7209

After our visit we drove the short distance to Cambria. I'm not sure why I picked the village, but it turned out to be a wonderful stay. We were staying at the El Colibri Hotel & Spa, right on the otherside of Highway 1 from the village. The actual shopping area is made up of the East Village and the West Village which is separated by about a half mile. Since we were still quite early for check-in, we headed to the charming East Village to do some shopping.

IMG_7217
IMG_7217

We found parking and went about our way. When doing research on Cambria two things kept coming up; Linn's, which has a restaurant, café, a boutique/bookshop, and a gourmet goods store in town. And a Farmstand about 5 miles out of town. The second thing I read about were Olallieberries, a cross between Loganberries and Youngberries developed at Oregon State in 1949. Even though it was developed in Oregon, growing it there proved difficult and it is mainly grown in Central California. And Linn's is know for their Olalliberry Pies and preserves.

IMG_7215 IMG_7216We ended up buying a bunch of preserves for friends and some "hot jelly" (to have with cheese).

We walked around a bit more; then headed to our hotel. While our room wasn't quite ready, I had a plan for our afternoon anyway. The El Colibri is located right at the South end of the Moonstone Beach Boardwalk; which is why I chose the place. And so we headed off and did the approximately three mile walk along the boardwalk. It was easy and picturesque.

IMG_7221

Of course we had some "supervision" along the way.

IMG_7220

We enjoyed the walk.

IMG_7225
IMG_7225

There were very few people along the way.

One of our lasting memories of Cambria are the benches; which we first started seeing along the Boardwalk.

IMG_7231

This one is one of my favorites….for some reason; I just fine the location somewhat romantic.

IMG_7233

As I guess many other folks do.

IMG_7232

It was a nice little jaunt for the afternoon.

We got back to the hotel, checked in, freshened up….I check in at work to make sure things were going ok.

After relaxing for a bit we headed out to dinner. I'd picked a restaurant named Madeline's. First off, it was in walking distance. Second of all; the wine by the glass list looked really good. During the day, along with serving lunch, Madeline's is a wine shop until 5pm. I'd made reservations for outdoor dining at 530 pm. So, with the sun setting, we headed out, crossed over Highway 1, onto Main Street, pass the Gas Station….we were a bit early and the Missus wanted to do some shopping. Unfortunately, it seems like many of the shop were closed due to Covid-19.

IMG_7234

We did stop in at a shop named Bali Gems. The owner was so nice; we chatted for almost a half hour. He told us that the stones found on Moonstone Beach aren't really Moonstones, but a combination of different minerals like agate, jasper, and such. He asked us where we'd be having dinner and when I mentioned Madeline's, I was told that it is the "best restaurant in town", and not like other "touristy" places. He also provided a nice little map for us. The Missus really wanted to buy something, but couldn't find anything to Her taste….maybe next time….

We got to Madeline's and were seated promptly at a nice table….everything was spaced out wonderfully and the heaters worked well. Our Server was a very nice fellow whose name I believe is Oscar. He was efficient, very knowledgeable, and had the perfect combination of professionalism and friendliness. As we often like to do; we ordered a bunch of appetizers making our own tasting menu.

The bread was nothing to write home about.

IMG_7236

The Missus picked Her wine, though I waited until our first dish arrived; the Diver Scallops ($18).

IMG_8017

The scallops were nicely seared, still wonderfully rare in the middle. The searing added a nice crispness that held out well. The beurre blanc wasn't too heavy with some nice acidity. I went ahead and ordered a Viognier which went quite well with this. Strange, the Missus had never had a Viognier before???? She loved it and because Madeline's is a wine shop; actually ordered a bottle to take with us……which She's enjoyed here at home.

The Spanish Octopus ($18) was cooked perfectly; tender, with the slightest pleasant toothsomeness.

IMG_7241

Nice smokiness, the citrus tones came thru nicely to cut the saffron. By this time; I just trusted Oscar to pick a wine to match. He was awesome; he ended up picking wine that weren't on the "by the glass list"; but rather had been part of tastings that afternoon.

The only dish we didn't enjoy much was the Stuffed Quail ($16).

IMG_7243

The lemon beurre blanc overwhelmed everything on the plate and while the wild mushroom stuffing had very nice earthy-nutty-mildly sweet tones; the quail was really dry and tough. Oh, but the wine chosen for us…..by this point, the Missus and I were just sharing a single glass that was picked for us.

Sorry to say I never got a shot at the acorn squash in the Fall Salad ($11), but the Missus assured me that it was quite good.

IMG_7245

I really enjoyed the mild bitterness of the baby arugula, combined with the mild, almost spicy flavor of the Gorgonzola, and the balanced tartness of the pomegranate vinaigrette.

The Missus enjoyed Her Chocolate Truffle Mousse Cake ($11).

IMG_7247 IMG_7237While I had a nice digestif to finish things off.

This was a nice meal. But, as is often the case, it's the staff and service that elevated the meal, into something memorable. We'll be back!

Madeline's Restaurant & Wine Tasting Room
788 Main St.
Cambria, CA 93428

Arely (one more time, eating outdoors)

mmm-yoso!!! is a food blog.  Usually Kirk writes here, but he is taking a short vacation with His Missus.  Cathy is writing today.

In this time of COVID-19, everything has changed.  Although I haven't written about Arely since 2017, The Mister and I have dropped in pretty regularly.  84567496-9C73-41A2-B494-72E6ADA0F925_1_201_a
84567496-9C73-41A2-B494-72E6ADA0F925There is seating out front as well as indoors.  When you order and pay, the table where you will be seated is noted and food will be brought to you.F4F5C616-F4E5-4155-8B0F-4CFF6D68B8D6The strawberry cream cheese stuffed French Toast (a white board special, $8.95) is wonderful.  The cream cheese melted inside the middle of the thick sliced egg and cinnamon battered bread; the fresh strawberries on top added enough sweetness (it did not need the accompanying 'breakfast syrup').FB1E3354-4FBC-465F-9873-C6D797576115 BCC01D7D-3B21-4BFA-9223-3A1B39A3A690
BCC01D7D-3B21-4BFA-9223-3A1B39A3A690The Arely Scramble ($12.95) is served on top of a toasted English muffin.  The eggs are scrambled with a lot of bacon. There is sliced avocado and the freshly made hollandaise, which  was almost-but not quite- breaking (either the egg yolks were too hot or there was too much butter, darn it!). The bites of this were kind of perfect.

84567496-9C73-41A2-B494-72E6ADA0F925 We usually always order the French onion soup when here for lunch.  It is flavorful and the broth is not salty.  The melted cheese and crunch of French bread/'crouton' make it perfect, even though eating out of a reusable bowl is different. D2BE4B32-671A-4AD0-AF63-D515EFD6AF21A slice of quiche is accompanied by a small salad and some slices of baguette. This is ham and cheese and there are many chunks of ham, a great custard (with a slight nutmeg flavor) and plenty of cheese.  
D2BE4B32-671A-4AD0-AF63-D515EFD6AF21 F1C37DC3-ED39-44E5-94D0-D120EA43B80A The chicken Florentine (mushroom-spinach) crepe ($10.25) was covered in a delightful cream sauce which went well with the 
CC9C6F7B-C8BD-4F90-97CC-06FFD42E6394 accompanying side of home potatoes.  Bell pepper and onion and crispy browned potato chunks made for a good leftover portion.D2BE4B32-671A-4AD0-AF63-D515EFD6AF21 We can't resist ordering some sort of sweet from the bakery counter.  The fresh made (still warm) almond croissant is always a good choice. 

Still going strong after all these years and during COVID-19 times. A great neighborhood bakery cafe.

Arely French Bakery 4961 Clairmont Drive San Diego 92117 (619) 270-1910 Currently Open Monday 7 a.m.-4 p.m., Tues-Sat 7 a.m.-8 p.m., Sun 7:30 a.m.-7 p.m.

A49B2B87-ECBA-499A-BE38-15585C286A70

The French Oven-revisits

Thanks for stopping to read mmm-yoso!!!, a food blog since May 26, 2005. Cathy is writing today's post; Kirk has a job with assignments which have deadlines.

I did write a post in August of 2018 about The French Oven, an obscurely located (it's in the middle of a neighborhood, across from a public park) locally owned Bakery and Cafe.  With the onset of Covid-19, whenever we do go out to eat, we've made a conscious effort to remain 'local'- both in terms of the businesses where The Mister and I make purchases and distance from home if no outdoor seating is available. The French Oven has become a 'regular' stop. 

351610C4-F937-46E6-B43D-CBFFA6F0396C Only two people at a time are allowed inside and there is sometimes a bit of a line outdoors, but it does move fast. EAFB420C-9834-4A10-9468-3AE560C9CC68 There is a table at the door where pre-paid orders are placed to be picked up. B2785214-DAF2-4905-A098-E88B61420B66 There are paper menus available just inside the door, if you want to 'plan' your purchase while waiting.69431716-3CCA-4DE0-AD46-023A6762CE2469431716-3CCA-4DE0-AD46-023A6762CE24 Let's start with the 'Breakfast' part of the menu.  Egg bites ($3) are available in three flavors: Ham, Veggie and Sun-dried tomato.  This is the non-vegetarian choice-ham, bacon, Swiss, tomato, parsley and caramelized onions.  It is quite large and the flavors are each distinct, melding well together.  It can (and should) be warmed.

912EA337-BD76-421B-8F2B-28DED3567F1F F19855A9-AE86-4552-AC5B-4B43C35910FB The Ham and Cheese croissant ($4.75) is topped with cheese and filled with Black Forest Ham, Swiss and Béchamel. Creamy interior with a bit of a crunch from the croissant, distinct flavors and even better when warmed.
912EA337-BD76-421B-8F2B-28DED3567F1F 3D763E0B-1BE9-4851-BDA7-545740A5014FThe lox for the Salmon lox croissant ($9) is cured here (not smoked).  A very plentiful amount of salmon, served on a fresh croissant with sliced cucumbers, sliced onion, capers and a dill creme fraiche. Large enough to share, but sometimes I want it all.  
EAFB420C-9834-4A10-9468-3AE560C9CC68In the refrigerator section (below the pastry display case) are beverages, salads and quarts of soups ($10).  This one is French onion and (of course) it was wonderful.  The complimentary cheesy croutons make the reheated soup bowls just perfect.  736BA3B9-F318-458C-8DC1-1C27D0F4F47D  18CA550F-0E40-41E1-91C0-3DA697B17DB5The soup selections vary each week and last week it was chilled sweet pea (meant to be served cold) with croutons.  We had the first two bowls with some home made egg salad on a Batard purchased that day.  I could taste sugar snap peas, lemon and mint in this 'French gazpacho'-which was a refreshing break on those hot days we had last week.
EAFB420C-9834-4A10-9468-3AE560C9CC68 The Caprese Sandwich ($8) is served on a fresh baguette with fresh mozzarella, tomato, pesto, basil, olive oil and balsamic.  Always a good choice.5BE22F72-5727-4D23-8C94-605876CFDDA4 The Turkey avocado BLT ($8.50) is also a quite perfect sandwich.  It has all of those ingredients plus a herb aioli.  So many flavors, but none overwhelms. The way a sandwich should be.   

2CC59165-F0B9-44E8-A20F-0F5A675168EF A2FDA6BC-8E34-4C39-B8AA-F6E610AF7EE8 3884CBC3-915F-4AD1-B149-4C527DA260E2 The chicken curry sandwich ($8) has a layer of mango chutney which is not overwhelmed by the mild curry, pickled onions, mixed greens or tomato.  An interesting blend of unique flavors.
EAFB420C-9834-4A10-9468-3AE560C9CC68 C918A8D2-620C-4929-9D86-4A6494A79BF0 We have been using the excuse of 'needing bread' as our reason to drive here and the purchase has always been the Batard ($3.50).  It is a simple, fresh made, chewy, flavorful bread.  Shorter but wider than a baguette, so over three days, we have different size sandwiches or toast.

FFE9CBDF-65B6-41D5-81B7-087872371C7CFFE9CBDF-65B6-41D5-81B7-087872371C7C 92D9042C-1ED5-4A94-BD9D-B7E1210765A6 There is usually something 'special' on the counter or in the refrigerator each week-jams, sauces or, at this visit, house made pate ($8). Oh my, the paste containing liver, fat, herbs, spices, cognac had an abundance of flavors.  We 'rationed' it out (needed to- very rich) serving it on slices of baguette along with some burrata on a batard (and some wine). 
EAFB420C-9834-4A10-9468-3AE560C9CC68R.A.C-Raspberry, almond and chocolate croissant ($4.50) is far more complex than an almond croissant.  Almost overwhelming in flavors except that the croissant is not overfilled, keeping a good balance.39779804-7E99-4480-BA3C-7DB9636D93CD The pear tart ($4.95) is made with a sugar dough crust, lined with almond cream and topped with sliced pears.  Always a good choice. 
39779804-7E99-4480-BA3C-7DB9636D93CD The apricot tart ($4.95) is made with some flavorful apricots and also has an almond cream filling.  F11DD97F-063E-46EB-B4F0-128F428CEB73 The fruit tart ($4.95) also has an almond cream topped with a jam and seasonal fruit.  Every piece of fruit is amazing.
F11DD97F-063E-46EB-B4F0-128F428CEB73 The raisin brioche ($3.25) satisfies my craving for raisin, custard and buttery brioche.  It needs coffee to make it perfect, though.

The French Oven is a great local place. Kirk has been here, here is cc's visit, Lynn from Oh So Yummy has a recent post.

The French Oven 10299 Scripps Trail San Diego 92131 (858) 766-8706 Closed Mon-Tue Open Wed-Sat 7-3, Sun 7-2 Website

03089877-1EC5-4256-9636-AD7903D778EF