Paris – Revisiting Pere Lachaise Cemetery and Lunch at Dong Phat

There were a couple of places the Missus wanted to revisit during this trip to Paris. One of those was Pere Lachaise Cemetery. We were a bit overwhelmed during our previous visit and couldn't find a lot graves and sites we wanted to see. This time we were a lot more organized as we got to the Porte Gambetta entry to the cemetery.

The first thing you past as you make your way up L'avenue des Combattants are the various war memorials.

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And you soon come to the Crematorium. The building is surrounded by tons of small niches; cubicles for the cremated. We spent some time wondering the courtyard and came across some really fascinating niches.

I found the following really touching.

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"Toi et Moi" it simply says….."Me and You".

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There are some interesting niches in the structure.

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Must've been a Rolling Stones fan?

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Painter and Poet.

And of course; the famous soprano Maria Callas.

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One could spend a good amount of time here.

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Many families have crypts for entire families.

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There are graves that look ancient ruins……

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To the sweet and touching.

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Close by is this tomb.

IMG_1975 IMG_1976This is where Oscar Wilde is buried. It is one of the most visited tombs in Pere Lachaise; there's quite a story behind the build. It had become a tradition for women to put on lipstick and leave an imprint of a "kiss" on the tomb. It would be covered with thousands of kisses; the cleaning effort was causing damage to the stone; so they put up a plastic barrier around the tomb.

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Monument to national airline disasters.

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Gertrude Stein's grave.

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IMG_1986 IMG_1987There's an entire area which memorializes the victims of Concentration Camps and the Nazi Resistance.

Gaunt, haunting statues top the memorials with names like Dachau, Auschwitz, Buchenwald, Oranienburg and Sachsenhausen.

The concentration camp at Ravensbrück was created specifically for women prisoners and was used from 1939 – 1945. I had never heard of this concentration camp until I saw the memorial. After which, I came home and looked it up. Of the over 130,000 women imprisoned during the period of 1939 – 1945; only 15,000 survived.

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My good friend Ale is a big fan of Edith Piaf; so I promised that I'd find her final resting place for her.

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Her daughter who died at the age of two is buried beside her.

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Bernard Verlhac might not be a name you recognize.

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He was one of the twelve people assassinated in the Charlie Hebdo shooting.

Other famous gravesites.

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Molière

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Chopin

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Colette

I guess you're really famous when everyone knows you by just one name. I already took a photo of Jim Morrison's grave on my previous post; so while we walked by, I refrained.

Though I couldn't help but take another photo of this one.

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We got back to the apartment in the 7th a bit pooped. It was a pretty damp and cold day. So, we decided to head up two blocks to Restaurant Dong Phat. Some pho sounded like just the thing. The menu is rather small; the seating tight, the two young ladies working fairly nice.

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The place was quite busy and it seemed like most of the folks really liked the shrimp chips?????

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The Missus went with the Pho Tai and I went with the Pho Sate.

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Man, these folks love their sauces….from the cup of Hoisin to the jar of chili sauce; folks on other tables were just dumping it into their soup. Also, notice that mint seems to be a standard herb for pho 'round these parts.

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This was a pretty small portion for over ten Euros. It was pretty weak and bland….no wonder folks were dumping all of that stuff into their pho. Just a few slices of rare beef; decent fat, but on the tough side and very squeaky beef balls. The Banh Pho used were really wide and undercooked.

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The Missus fared no better with her cloudy, bland, beef ball filled bowl.

I'd read good things about this place and with the history of the French in Vietnam, I thought that would be one cuisine that would be excellent in Paris. Well, this made it "oh-for-one".

Dong Phat
10 rue Malar
75007 Paris, France

Well, at least I was fairly certain dinner was going to be good…..

Thanks for stopping by!

Isshido Ramen (Soft Opening)

After a bit of a wait, Isshido Ramen finally opened in the middle of last month and is in soft opening mode. Since the opening; I've been able to visit three times.

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Located in the former location of a Submarina; I read that the owners are from Fukuoka, home of tonkotsu (Hakata) style ramen. So, I was intrigued; especially since the place was basically right across the street from Menya Utlra's Mira Mesa shop. Calvin was also quite excited to try the place out; so we headed on over. In an interesting development, we were seated, then told that the kitchen wasn't quite ready so there would be a 20 minute wait. Well, lucky for us; we had some extra time on this day.

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The shop is nice sized; 45-50 seats; wood paneling, you get it, right? The ramen menu features nine variations….but of course you know what I was going to try, right?

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We were thoroughly starving by the time our orders were taken; so we ordered a couple of appetizers.

Starting with Chicken Karaage.

Isshido 04 Isshido 04aVery light in color; more crumbly than crisp, for some reason the flavor profile reminded me of RakiRaki's karaage, except more mild in flavor….it had that hint of curry/turmeric or something similar, but really needed a good squeeze of lemon. At least the chicken was nice and moist.

I was also curious about the Potato Salad as I do enjoy a nice Japanese style (mashed) potato salad. I inquired about the portion size and the really nice (all the young ladies working here are very nice and eager to please) Server about the serving size. She walked over to the window; came back and made a circle with her hands about 3 1/2 inches in width. So I ordered it. What came out was this.

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Jesus; almost twice the width! The young lady brought this and looked at us sheepishly and said, "I'm sorry, this is way bigger than they told me". Well, at least it wasn't smaller, right? This really needed more salt; and even more mayo as it was more mashed potato than salad. Still, it was not bad.

And then there was the Signature Paitan ($11.95); in this case it's a tonkotsu broth, so no chicken involved. Because of the description, I expected a milky white broth, which was not quite what I got.

Isshido 06 Isshido 07The broth was salty and there was a strange unpleasant bitterness to it. We pulled several pieces of burnt garlic from our spoons which probably contributed to the flavor. I also would have preferred something a bit richer as well. The egg looked lovely; but was ice cold and really salty. The chashu was a bit on the waxy side; but tender enough, with a nice shoyu-mild sweetness.

I had expected the typical Hakata style noodles; but these were firm, slightly curly, and prepared well.

Overall, pretty mediocre, and definitely in need of some refining.

There was one, kinda gimmicky ramen on the menu I wanted to try, so I returned a week later. This time, all the folks waited outside until 1114 to be let in. One of the guys recognized me from Menya and asked me how it compared. I told him, I'd only been here once, but I thought it was not in the same league, especially with attention to detail.

So, I got a seat and ordered the Truffle Shio Ramen ($12.95).

Isshido 08 Isshido 08aHoly smokes; the shio ramen, at least on this day was way more "kotteri" than the tonkotsu I had. This is supposedly made with a truffle tare; but I could barely make out the fragrance of truffle. Large slices of oyster mushroom were torched like chashu to replace the pork; but while the texture was decent; it was really bland, and lacking the woodsy-lightly sweet flavor typical of this type of mushroom. They need to do something with the slices of mushroom than just slice and torch it so it can stand up to the broth. The sautéed button mushrooms had some earthy-buttery flavor and did well in this bowl, as did the crunchy menma (bamboo shoots). Perhaps some adjustments to the marinating liquid for the egg is due, as it was again super salty.

The noodles were a bit different this time; thinner, more straight, and over-cooked. So, no, I couldn't be bringing the Missus here.

And as I was leaving, the guy who for some reason remembered me from Menya said: "you're right, this ain't no Menya Ultra".

And so, this would have been the post, except that I had lunch with one of my ex-coworkers who was around for a meeting and really wanted to try Isshido. So I relented and we made our way over. This time, they had their act together and opened on time.

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Though I really didn't want more ramen, I decided to stick with the other side of the menu.

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Unfortunately, because we're still in the soft-opening period, all the bentos and fried rice aren't available. So, I ordered what I could.

I ordered some Gyoza.

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Brittle wrappers, very moist, but super salty filling; I wouldn't be surprised if these weren't made inhouse.

Since it was a cold and rainy day, I also went with the small Oden ($6.95), which was quite a bit for the price.

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So, let's imagine you bought some Hon Tsuyu; instant broth mix, and then put in half the water you were supposed to…in other words; it was so salty as to be undrinkable. The daikon had obviously been soaking in this and was super salty. The fish cake though, had not been exposed for too long and thankfully were edible and everything was hot. The young lady asked me why I didn't finish this dish and I told her it was way too salty. Isshido 13

And my dining companion was equally disappointed in the ramen.

I like the young people working here. I hope they get things straightened out.

Also, I took a gander at the website for Isshido and noticed this:

"Our story begins in Hakata Japan with our Master Chef, Mr. Ishida, who grew up in Hakata mastering the ramen recipes and tastes of his hometown passed down from his family for centuries. After 20 years of diligent study and mastering his recipes, he has brought his family’s legacy to the United States for the first time with Isshido in San Diego,CA."

Strangely, all the folks working the ramen line on my three visits were the same, they looked no older than maybe late 20's, early 30's. So, I'm figuring either "Mr Ishida" is not around to train, QC, and get the systems straight….or maybe one of these guys (all of which spoke perfect English) started their "diligent study" when they were maybe 7-8 years old?

Perhaps I'm mistaken; but if you visit, let me know if Mr Ishida is there!

Too bad, because in spite of the influx of ramen shops, there's always room for good ramen. Especially since I think we'll soon hit critical mass with regards to ramen shops.

So, I'll check back in a couple months and I'm hoping for some better ramen.

Isshido Ramen
8250 Mira Mesa Blvd
San Diego, CA 92126
Hours:
Wed – Mon 11am – 3pm, 430pm – 9pm

Woomiok (Soft Opening)

At the end of February Eater announced the business that would replace Red Cate had opened. I was quite happy to learn that it was a Seolleongtong shop. This year; the weather has been perfect for Seolleongtang, so of course I headed right on over first chance I had.

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The shop is nicely put together; clean lines, and of course the inevitable wood paneling.

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While the place is still in Soft opening mode and the folks seem to be rushing around a bit; I gotta say, the service was quite good.

Of course I had to order the Seolleontang. Out first was the panchan; which were nice and spicy, not too salty, and decent by San Diego standards. In other words, I'd love for someone to have really good fermented panchan. Still, this wasn't bad.

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I laughed when the next items came out…….

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The container of scallions totally reminded me of Seoul.

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Soon enough, my bone soup arrived.

Woomiok 06 Woomiok 07I forgot to take a photo of the rice; which for some reason, I thought was excellent. The broth, while not overly thick, nicely coated my tongue, and with a dose of salt, had a nice beefiness. When I mentioned his place to one of the folks at work; he mentioned that he had read (I found out on the four lettered site) that the soup was really bland. I had to explain to him that you needed to add salt to your taste to it…aiyah…. The brisket was nice and beefy; I was surprised that the tendon, which looked tough was nice and tender. Though there's not a large amount of meat in the broth, what there is was quite good.

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This was quite a satisfying meal; so I soon returned.

I ordered the Galbitang; but after placing my order, the nice woman informed me that Galbitang wasn't available, so I had to order something else.

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So, I decided to try the Donkkaseu (aka "Tonkatsu"). The panchan on this day was even better, especially the kkakdugi (radish kimchi); which had a nice spice, sourness, and was fairly refreshing.

Whoa; check out the pork cutlet.

Woomiok 10 Woomiok 11Even though it was pounded thin like schnitzel; it was quite large; I could finish just a bit over half of it. It was by the book, fairly moist and tender, but nothing special. I'm not a big fan of the runny and fairly bland sauce that typically accompanies the donkkaseu. In fact when I order this from Bann, I bring my own Japanese Katsu sauce. The rice was once again excellent. Cabbage drizzled with ketchup and mustard and a routine macaroni salad completed things.

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You couldn't complain about the portion size; that's for sure. But I sure wished they had what I originally wanted. Oh well, the hazards of visiting during soft openings.

I mentioned trying this place out to the Missus; who enjoyed Seollongtang and She asked me; "Is it as good as Imun is Seoul?" Geeez… My response? "Well, Imun has been around for 115 years, and Woomiok for like 2 weeks, give them a try." Which is what seemed to be happening as most of the customers on my two visits were older Korean folks trying out the new kid in town. I'm hoping they do well (and last longer than Great Wow and Red Cate) and hope they have the galbitang when I return.

I guess everyone thinks it's perfect weather for this; check out Kirbie's post here.

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Woomiok
3860 Convoy St
San Diego, CA 92111
Hours:
Tues – Sun 11am – 9pm

Lunches at Kokoro

Recently, the Missus and I have been talking about Japan quite a lot. We're obviously missing Japan; but with how far ahead we plan our trips; it's been hard trying to fit another visit with our timelines.

Recently, after a rather long morning, I just wanted a nice peaceful lunch and maybe something that'd would remind me of Japan. It had been ages since I'd had lunch at Kokoro; a place that was a favorite of the late Ed from Yuma, it seems that he'd eat there at least once on his visits. Having a meeting close by gave me the perfect opportunity to drop in for lunch.

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There was only one other table occupied when I arrived. It was three generations of Japanese women having lunch.

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This was exactly the kind of atmosphere I wanted. It was easy to find what I wanted for lunch on the menu. It was right on the first page.

You have your choice of Miso Soup or Udon…I've always enjoyed the miso soup here; but decided to try the udon.

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Loved the texture of the noodles; which were nice and firm. The broth was really salty. The crisp and fresh greens were dressed with a typical Asian vinaigrette; I loved the tomato which had a good deal of acidity. But enough about that…..

On to the main course; the Chirashi ($20).

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I'd recently had a poke bowl in San Diego that nearly cost me this much and was terrible. So, when looking at things that way….. Anyway, the sushi meshi, while perhaps a bit heavy on the vinegar did a nice job, along with the ginger of cleansing; then prepping my palate for each slice of fish. The tako was nicely tender; the maguro standard issue; the Hamachi nice and buttery….but it the shiromi (the whitefish) that made this particularly good….and those nicely prepared slices of saba and kampachi. The piece of hirame hiding in the back had a nice mild sweetness to it.

This was a really nice lunch.

So; I decided to return a week or so later.

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And while I was sorely tempted to have the chirashi again, I turned over the menu and ordered something from the other side of it.

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This time I started with the miso soup; which was as good as ever; nice miso flavor, with a bit of thickness to it.

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I ordered the sashimi and chicken karaage combo ($14.95).

Kokoro Lunch 09 Kokoro Lunch 10The karaage was straightforward chicken thighs, skin on, seasoned with salt and black pepper, and lightly dusted. It was quite plain and without crisp or crunch, nor with any complex umami flavors.

The sashimi was basic; the Hamachi being the best of the bunch; the tako was again very tender, but did not have the light briney flavor of the previous meal. The maguro was fine; no off flavors.

Kokoro Lunch 11 Kokoro Lunch 12It wasn't bad by any means; but I'm going to stick with the Chriashi. The older woman who works here is so very gracious and when things are slow I really enjoy the vibe of the place. I've got to have lunch here more often.

Kokoro Restaurant
3298 Greyling Dr
San Diego, CA 92123
Hours
Mon – Tues  1130am – 2pm, 530pm – 10pm
Wed         530pm – 10pm
Thurs – Sat 1130am – 2pm, 530pm – 10pm

Clearing Out the Memory Card – Revisits to Menya Ultra (Mira Mesa), Tim Ky, and Mien Trung

We've sure been getting some extended soup weather this year; and I'm not complaining one bit. Of course, going to the same old places would make for some pretty boring posts. So, please bear with me for tonight….I got these photos just taking up space.

Menya Ultra (Mira Mesa):

Yes, yet again. Though "FOY" Jason had been asking if I tried the Miso Ramen. So guess what Jason? I finally did.

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And it was indeed very good; though to be perfectly honest, I still prefer the clean richness of the tonkotsu.

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Menya Ultra
8141 Mira Mesa Blvd
San Diego, CA 92126

Tim Ky:

Yet another place that I've posted on a bajillion times since they opened.

I did notice a whole different set of employees working on this visit.

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And of course I got my Beef Sate Egg Noodle "Dry"……

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No complaints from me…..

Tim Ky Noodle
9330 Mira Mesa Blvd
San Diego, CA 92126 

Mien Trung:

And yes Mien Trung yet again.

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For my Bun Bo Hue fix. After a few bumpy visits; my visits over the last year have been pretty consistent. I'm getting my Bun Bo Hue while things are still nice and cool.

And some Hen Xuc Banh Trang too.

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Peppery and spicy!

Mien Trung Restaurant
7530 Mesa College Dr
San Diego, CA 92111

Thanks for stopping by. I'll be back with (hopefully) a more interesting post tomorrow.

Lana’i – A Revisit to Richard’s Market

We slept in a bit on our last morning on Lana'i. I could see my In-laws out the window walking and enjoying the peace and quiet. While the Missus slowly woke; I went and filled up the Jeep. The Hotel Lana'i provides breakfast; but the Missus and I just had some coffee and then headed out…..our flight didn't leave until 11; so we had some time to just hang out and enjoy.

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You could say Dole Park is the heart of Lana'i City. Built in the 1920's, most of the businesses surround the park. There are a couple of interesting places in the park like the Community Center and the Lana'i War Memorial that honors those from Lana'i who made the ultimate sacrifice for our country.

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We met up with the In-Laws while crossing Lana'i Avenue and we walked on over to the Lana'i Cultural and Heritage Center, which I mentioned before. This might be the only place where you'll actually see a pineapple plant on the island. They decided to plant some in front of the building; which used to be the Dole Administration Building because, as the really nice volunteer working this day told me; "folks think pineapples grow on trees, so we thought we should show them what a pineapple plant looks like!"

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My Mother In Law was especially interested in the displays and I had a great time chatting with the woman volunteering…she is just a bit younger than me; so there's a lot to talk about. She also filled me in on what Pulama Corporation is doing on the island……and other stuffs like why there's so much wire mesh around trees and plants…it's because the Axis Deer are quite populous and bold enough to walk down the street to get some "good grindz".

After a really fun time we decided to get "breakfast". You know what we were having, right? Yep, it was back to Richard's Market…..

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For the large poke bowl – 3 different poke…real poke, not the mainland "chi-poke" stuff on brown rice, and the Missus wanted some kimchi on top, which they gladly added no charge.

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Maybe it's because I can't get a decent version here; but I enjoyed the Ahi Limu. Decent quality fish and a bargain for $9.99, enough for the Missus and I.

Richard's Market
434 8th St
Lanai City, HI 96763

After eating we wandered around a bit. Soon enough, it was time to head to the airport and our flight back to Honolulu. At the airport; I left the Jeep as I had found it; in the 72 hour parking, unlocked, keys and paperwork under the mat. Slow down

It was a refreshing joy to revisit Lana'i….a different slice of life; sort of how things used to be. It was great to recharge, refresh, and, well…..slow down. Things we all need to do sometimes!

Revisits – Chicago Fire Grill and R & B Filipino Cuisine

A couple of revisits for a quiet Tuesday

Chicago Fire Grill:

I'll often just drop by to hear what the owner has got on his mind….he's a hoot! And doesn't hold back.

And of course; for a totally decent Chicago Dog.

Chicago Fire Rev 01 Chicago Fire Rev 02This place has gotten better over time. The roll, while not being the classic "S Rosen Mary Ann Poppy Seed Bun" was less crumbly and not as dry as usual. It was "dragged through the garden" in the typical Vienna Beef style; with all the typical players in place….fluorescent green relish? Check. Sport Peppers? Check. Celery Salt? A nice amount.  Tomatoes? A bit riper than usual. The typical Vienna Beef dog had a decent snap as well.

The natural fries; while not my favorite; is done in thypical Chicago style.

And for dessert; well, I get to listen to the owner……this time he was grumbling about all those online food ordering and delivery platforms: "Geez, what the hell is going on with those Uber eats and stuff? Don't people get out from behind a desk and actually go get lunch these days? That's why they are so f*&%#@g f@+. They need to get out from that desk." I quickly and gently reminded him that he isn't the skinniest guy in the world. He stared at me; squinted and said; "hey, I like you….." I told him, "yeah…for now…until I order some ketchup on my dog." He cracked up. Priceless.

Chicago Fire Grill
8935 Towne Centre Dr.
San Diego, CA 92122

R & B Filipino Cuisine:

Speaking of getting fat eating behind my desk……

R and B Rev 01 R and B Rev 02Well, it had been awhile since I've had anything from a turo-turo place and even longer since I'd had anything from R & B. Plus; I ended up giving away half of my plate anyway.

The beef mechado was greasy; though the slices (cut too large) of beef were tender. The carrots weren't cooked, but at least the stew had a nice bit of tangy-acidity.

I got half rice – half pancit. The pancit was very mild and on the bland side; though at least it wasn't mushy and over-cooked.

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Timing does matter with these type of places and we lucked out as a new tray of sisig came out of the kitchen when we were in line. Like I mentioned in my previous post; I think the sisig here has gotten better over time. It's still not top notch; but the chopped lechon kawale wasn't to waxy and had both crisp pieces and some with a nice chew. Good vinegar, pungent onions, and a decent spice. The person I gave half my plate to came by later and asked me what this was….I guess he'd never had sisig before. He loved it….I told him he "needed to get out more."

R & B Filipino Cuisine
11257 Camino Ruiz
San Diego, CA 92126

Lana’i – Dinner at Nobu

My In-laws had really enjoyed Lana'i so far….there was something about the freshness of the air, the relaxed vibe, and for us, being about 8 degrees cooler than Oahu. After a nice nap; we awoke and decided to take a short stroll.

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Dole Park is basically the center of the city. Most of the businesses line the street around the park. As do buildings like the city's district court.

Let me ask you; have you ever seen a Court House that looks like this?

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Soon enough it was time to head off to dinner. Initially, I had wanted to try the Lanai City Bar and Grill which we had tried on our previous visit. I'd heard some really good things about the new Executive Chef. Unfortunately, it was Monday and the restaurant was closed. So, I decided to make dinner reservations at Nobu….yes, Nobu, which opened several months after our previous visit.

We arrived for dinner reservations; the dining area is very nice; with great views of Manele Bay.

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IMG_6531 IMG_3544Our Servers were excellent; professional and yet quite friendly.

I started with a perfectly decent Pisco Sour; though the Missus lamented the lack of "eggy-richness" like what She's had in Peru.

For pupus we started with the Grilled Shishito with Den Miso ($10) and Edamame with Truffle ($12).

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We'd have preferred our shishito peppers with a bit more color to them as they weren't "grilled" enough to develop the deep roasted pepper flavor, nor make them more tender. The peppers had retained too much of the chlorophyllic green flavor.  The miso-sugary Den Miso did fairly well on this, but would have been even better had the peppers been roasted/grilled properly.

The Edamame was fine; still very firm and had a light drizzle of truffle oil…..a very light drizzle.

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The Whitefish with Dry Miso ($28) was next.

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One of Nobu's signature dishes; a firm whitefish is topped with dehydrated miso; olive oil, sliced garlic. The fish was super dry and tough….even for shiromi. The garlic chips make things a bit too bitter and for some reason; the miso powder was very bland.

One of the dishes the Missus, a real mushroom lover, wanted to try was the Crispy Shiitake Salad ($26).

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The deep fried mushrooms were really mild in flavor; lacking that sweet-earthiness. The greens were very fresh and lovely, but the dressing had too much rice vinegar for our taste and really over-shadowed the truffle oil in the dressing….you barely knew it was there.

Our favorite item of the evening was the Warm Mushroom Salad($29).

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Again; the greens were excellent, crisp, fresh, with a sweet-bitterness. The mushrooms were sautéed to perfection; not overdone, the texture firm yet yielding. There was the perfect balance of seasoning, salt to acid to really bring out the best in the mushrooms.

Our least favorite dish of the night was the Crispy Rice with Spicy Tuna ($28).

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Man, that rice was hard, not crisp, hard, and the centers; which should give way to some softer-creamier rice was also hard. And this coming from a guy who loves Yaki-onigiri. The scrapings used for the spicy tuna was more fishy than we prefer.

Since there were four of us; I ordered the Black Cod Miso in Butter Lettuce ($9/piece – $36).

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This was fine; though the fish wasn't as fatty as I prefer. Still, not bad, mild richness, balanced sweet-umami tones. My MIL agrees with the Missus that they prefer my (based on my Mom's) recipe as this was on the mild side for them.

The last dish was the Pan Seared Opah, Crispy Ong Choy, with Truffle Yuzu Soy ($32). Man, this could have been a winnah! However……

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We were forewarned that this was going to come out medium; which made my heart sing. Opah is terrible when over-cooked, making it leathery and dry. When this arrived; well, it had been overcooked, and was so dry. The yuzu-soy; though again very light on the truffle had a nice savory-umami-sour-light sweetness and went quite well with the super tender and almost sweet broccoli; which I'm assuming was local.

In the end; our service was great….which is what made the meal, as the food was uneven and somewhat disappointing; especially at this price-point. The Missus and I have had several meals at different locations of Nobu over the years and for some reason have never been "wow'd" by our meals. Not sure what it is as I've made items (with some adjustments) from a couple of his cookbooks over the years which have turned out well.

Nobu (at the Four Seasons Manele Bay)
1 Manele Bay Rd
Lanai City, HI 96763

Well, at least it was a beautiful night in Lana'i City!

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Yes, It’s Jury Duty – Coava Coffee, Abandoned Horton Plaza, and a Return to Sultan Baklava

**** Coava Coffee has closed

Yes, it was that time again, and I caught the bus, then trolley downtown to perform my civic obligation.

I decided to stop for my caffeine fix at Coava Coffee Roasters, a branch of the very popular Portland based roastery/café which opened up in the Westin on Broadway.

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Had a very inexpensive Kenyan pour-over; which while as distinctive in flavor as what we get at Birdrock had a nice mild fruitiness and acidity.

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And gave me just enough of a boost for the morning.

You can read CC's post on Coava here.

Coava Coffee Roasters
400 W Broadway
San Diego, CA 92101
Hours:
Mon – Fri 6am – 6pm
Sat – Sun 7am – 6pm

This was my first JD since they moved things over to the Central Courthouse where the "lounge" is located on the third floor. Of course, we were excused for like a two hour lunch break. I had a place in mind and took my time getting there. Last time, I walked over and checked out Horton Plaza Park. I'd read that Horton Plaza had been sold and have also read of it's impending demise, so I thought I'd take a look.

Horton Empty 03
Horton Empty 03
Horton Empty 03 Horton Empty 08It was quite eerie; all the closed shops, not a single customer. It reminded me of some movie set.

The only two main shops still open are Macy's on the North side and Jimbo's on the Southwest corner.

I took a look at the directory to see what tenants were still in place. It was very sparse and quite deceiving…..take a quick look and you'll see Macy's listed 10 times!

Both Cathy and CC mentioned remembering when Horton Plaza opened back in 1985.

It was quite sad.

Even Horton Plaza Park was quite empty….this on a very sunny (it was before the last storm system hit) day. Seems that the businesses there were closed down as well.

Horton Empty 09
Horton Empty 09

I'm hoping the proposed redevelopment is successful.

Horton Empty 02
Horton Empty 02
Horton Empty 02

As I made my way to the South end of the mall; I noticed that 24 Hour Fitness and Jimbo's was doing well. I also noticed that the mall was quite clean and in good shape.

Horton Empty 10
Horton Empty 10

It was, as a whole depressing….I needed some lunch.

Call me a creature of habit; but just like last time I headed back to Sultan Baklava. When Sultan was opened in El Cajon it was a regular stop for us. These days….well, we're older and sometimes just getting around downtown is a hassle. But Jury Duty is the perfect time for another visit.

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The owner was setting up the baklava when I entered and greeted me heartily, I had a seat, and quickly got some warming Tea.

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The fragrance of bergamot wafting up to my nose.

Being the fairly boring person I am…plus not wanting to over eat because I still had an afternoon (and what turned out to be another full day) in front of me. I ordered the same two items I did last time.

IMG_6782 Sultan Rev 04Starting with my favorite meze; the Antipezme (acili ezme). This was much better than what I'd had on my previous visit; nice smokey tones of paprika, good acidity, and a surprising dose of spice. The lavas however was too hard and crumbly; lacking any stretch.

I was worried about my Lahmacun, but it was very well done and quite satisfying.

Sultan Rev 05 Sultan Rev 06From the nice crisp edges to the tender center. Nicely balanced and well seasoned meat, this turned over some nice memories for me. Sweet-savory-acidity, it does the trick. I know I always say this….but I gotta return more often.

Sultan Baklava
770 4th Ave
San Diego, CA
Hours:
Mon – Thurs 11am – 1030pm
Fri – Sum   11am – 1130pm

Sultan was one of those places for the Missus and I….it inspired us to travel to Turkey, not once, but twice all those years ago. Sitting, finishing up my tea all those memories returned.

From the bustling and historic Istanbul.

Vacation 2011 01 134
Vacation 2011 01 134
Vacation 2011 01 134

To the exotic land of "fairy chimneys", "underground cities", and cathedrals build into mountainsides; Cappadocia.

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Vacation 2011 D60 01 1037
Vacation 2011 D60 01 1037

To the historic ruins of Ephesus and even the wonderful Mediterranean city of Antalya.

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Vacation 2011 D60 01 198

We saw, learned, and ate so much. Those images are imprinted in my mind…….

Bologna – Trattoria Tony

IMG_0533After exploring San Petronio Basilica and having a snack at Sfoglia Rina we wandered around a bit. There is quite a bit to see in Bologna and we only scratched the surface during our time here. We were ending our trip to Emilia-Romagna in Bologna and we still had two more fairly busy days ahead, so we decided just to take in the city a bit and wander around.

When visiting the city; you really can't miss "Le Due Torri"; the Two Towers one of the symbols of the city. It is said that there were once over a hundred of these towers in the city which were used to symbolize wealth, power, and for a more practical purpose; to protect and watch over the owners holdings. Today there are about 20 of these left.

We headed down bustling Via Rizzoli and took a random right on Via dell'Indipendenza, then took another left and ended up at what looked like a church. IMG_0539

This is the Chiesa dei Filippini Madonna di Galliera e Filippo Neri….wow, talk about a mouthful. Curious, we decided to take a look.

The structure was badly damaged by bombs in 1944, but was painstakingly restored to its current state and reopened to the public in 1999.

It was a fun stop for us; a nice little respite on this walk.

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IMG_0541

It was time for us to check into our apartment; so we headed back.

Down this somewhat ominously named street.

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The street of "discontent"?

As we got close to the apartment; we noticed a crowd around his window.

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So we took a look…..and saw….well, what looked like a stream?

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Apparently there once was a whole system of canals throughout the city….most of which are now underground. This is one of the few places where you can catch a glimpse of Bologna's "hydraulic" system that once powered the city.

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We relaxed a bit and took a short nap. We decided to stay fairly close by for dinner and just randomly chose this little Trattoria.

IMG_0557 IMG_3694The place soon filled up with people who looked like they were headed home from work; the odd family, students, and well, us….the token tourists.

The menu had all of the regional standards. We read that this little trattoria has been here since 1968.

Soon enough the paper bag of bread landed at our table.

We never really enjoyed the bread in Emilia-Romagna; it's hard, dry, and pretty much tasteless. Though we did try the one that looks like it belongs at the end of a medieval weapon.

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IMG_0549

The Tagliere Salumi e Forgaggi was quite good; especially the Parmesan Reggiano; it was obviously aged a bit because of all the tyrosine crystals.

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The mortadella was the best of the salumi.

This time it was the Missus who went with the Tortellini en Brodo.

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The pasta was nice and tender; the filling well flavored. The broth was a little light and needed salt.

You do not get Spaghetti Bolognese in Bologna….in fact, there is no such dish in Bologna…except perhaps at a tourist restaurant. What you do get is the tagliatelle al ragù.

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Hand made fresh pasta; with a slow cooked meat based sauce. The pasta was quite nice; good pull and texture. The meat in the sauce was rather hard and chewy. I enjoyed how the pasta was dressed as this could be on the rather rich side.

Overall, an okay dinner, it was also perhaps one of the cheapest meals we had on this trip. And, as you can tell, we didn't leave hungry.

Trattoria Tony
Via Augusto Righi 1/B
Bologna, Italy

We headed off to bed rather early…..tomorrow was going to be quite a busy day for us with lots of food involved.

Stay Tuned!