Munich – A Morning Walk, Weisswurst at the Viktualienmarkt, and “No Please Do Not Call it…..”

Our Monday in Munich was going to be our "walking day", as the Missus had a broad outline worked out. We headed out from our apartment and a few blocks away got to the Missus's starting point, a large square officially known as Karlsplatz, but which most folks in Munich call "Stachus".

IMG_1001

Right past the square as you head toward the city center, you pass through Karlstor. While the city walls of Munich were torn down near the end of the 18th Century; three of the gates remain.

IMG_0999 Brunnenbuberl fountain 02 This gate is one of the entrances to Munich's "Pedestrian Zone". It is obviously one of the main shopping streets as well.

We were surprised at all the "little surprises" we found on our way to our breakfast stop. It was fun and there was a lot to catch our attention and I'm sure we missed quite a bit as well.

I thought the fountain to the right was quite interesting. It's named Brunnenburbel – "Fountain Boy". It was quite interesting; apparently the fountain depicts a Satyr spitting water on a boy. The story goes that the boy was trying to stop the Styr from peeing, so the Satyr grabbed the boy and started spitting on him. I mentioned this to someone and was told; "it is very German….you see, in Belgium, they celebrate a boy peeing (Mannekin Pis)…here, even the little boys know it's wrong, and try to stop it, even at a cost". I dunno know about that, but it's very quaint, no?

IMG_0998

During our walk down Neuhauser Strasse we saw a few things that reminded us of places we had been to before.

The first was at this place.

IMG_0973
IMG_0973

This is the German Hunting and Fishing Museum. And no it wasn't the giant Wels catfish outside; but rather this fellow, do you recognize him from a previous post?

IMG_0971

Yes, it's a copy of Il Porcellino…..you recall that in Florence, I managed to "feed Mr Piggy"…..so, according to legend, I'm supposed to return to Florence one day!

And just a bit further down we came across this fellow!

IMG_1007 IMG_1015Shades of Salzburg. We had just come from Salzburg, where you couldn't help but run into Stephan Balkenhol's "Sphaera". And here, leading to a shopping lane named Kaufingertor Passage was this sculpture. I had a bit of a time trying to find out the name of this one. After a bit of work; I found that the name of this piece was simply “Man with outstretched arms and white shirt”. Go figure.

And of course all roads….or make that pedestrian streets leads to Marienplatz.

Even on a Monday at right before 9 am, the place was fairly busy.

IMG_1014 IMG_1021On our way back, later in the day, we'd actually get a chance to see the Glockespiel on the New Town Hall go off. It's quite entertaining.

It might be obvious to you; but Marienplaz literally means "Mary's Square". The column that stands near the middle of the square is named Mariensäule "Mary's Column", a Marian column that dates back to 1638 and was created to celebrate Bavaria's victory over Swedish Troops during the Thirty Years War. At the top of the column a golden statue of the Virgin Mary stands on a gold crescent moon, befitting her title of "Queen of Heaven".

In case you were wondering what happened to the Old Town Hall; well, it's right there at the end of the square.

IMG_1022

In retrospect, the Missus and I were quite surprised at all the church's in Munich, we ended up visiting quite a few. Our last stop before "breakfast" was St Peter's Church.

IMG_1030 IMG_1026St Peter's Church is said to be the oldest Catholic Church in Munich. It is also noted that as far back as the 8th Century monks lived around a little church on this hill. This church dates back to the 12th Century.

I found of this interesting and I really enjoyed the ceiling Frescoes.

But there was one main reason I wanted to visit. In one of the side Altars of the church you'll find a coffin of glass. The skeleton in that coffin is covered with a bejeweled body stocking….gold and jewels abound. The skeleton's eyes are glass.

Jeweled Skeleton of Saint Munditia - St Peters Church

This is the skeleton of Saint Munditia who is the Patron Saint of….wait for it…..Spinsters! Her remains have been interred in the church since 1675.

Well, after that visit…..it was time to grab a rather late breakfast.

IMG_1032

We had enjoyed our short visit to the Viktualienmarkt on the day we arrived in Munich, so I really wanted to check the place out again and I also wanted the Missus to try some Weisswurst and it had to be eaten at the right time…..according to tradition Weisswurst should never be eaten after the bell chimes for noon. Traditionally, Weisswurst were made without preservatives fresh each morning, so they needed to be consumed before midday.

IMG_1033

The Viktualienmarkt Beer Garden doesn't open until 10am, which is why we spent the morning wandering around a bit. After arriving we went and checked out some shops and produce stands.

IMG_7722
IMG_7722
IMG_7722
IMG_7722

Thing were fairly laid back and quite relaxed when we arrived.

IMG_1040

And after exploring for a bit; we headed off to the Beer Garden.

IMG_1048

And ordered the Missus Her Weisswurst. No beer for us; 10am is too early for "beer o'clock"….at least for us….even in Munich.

IMG_7720 IMG_1046I instructed the Missus to peel off the casing before eating. I'd read that Weisswurst is white because no nitrites. which preserve color are used in making this pork, veal, and fatback, sausage. The Missus loved it! This was fairly mild in flavor, not salty, you could make out a bit of porkiness, some almost citrus tones….it was quite good. The Missus is now sold on Weisswurst…….She even prefers it without mustard. She also enjoyed the Sauekraut as well. This as enough for both the Missus and I for a pseudo brunch.

IMG_1052 IMG_1054As we were leaving the Viktualienmarkt  area I passed the little shop above. I saw the sign…..displayed to the right and something caught my eye. Leberkässemmel….for 2 Euroes! Leberkäse is a Bavarian and Austrian specialty that folks compare to bologna. This was a nice slice of meat product tucked into a roll (semmel), with mustard to cut the porkiness and salt. I really enjoyed this.

IMG_1055

You know, the flavor is very familiar. As we were walking up the street, I told the Missus, "you know this really tastes like…." when a tall gentleman turned around and in a very kindly voice said, "sir…please no not say Spam….please……" Okay, then……..let's just say it was delicious, how's that? (pssst, it does kinda taste like you know what…….)

IMG_1056

We were having a lot of fun in Munich and our day wasn't even half done!

Thanks for stopping by!

Munich – A Quick Visit to the Viktualienmarkt and Dinner at Werneckhof by Geisel

IMG_0863When planning our trip last year that started in Budapest and ended in the Missus's favorite city….yep, Paris, I needed to find stops in between. While the Missus does humor my desire to travel by train; She requested that no trip be longer than three hours or so. So, when planning our exit from Salzburg, I had to keep that parameter in mind. After providing a few options; the Missus agreed on Munich. It seemed an interesting city, we'd never been to Germany….and frankly, I'd always wanted to check out an honest to goodness Beer Garden.

Once, I started to do a bit of research, I got a bit excited when I read about Werneckhof by Geisel, lead by a German-Japanese Chef; Tohru Nakamura. I managed to snag reservations quite easily, considering the place has 2 Michelin Stars.

We arrived at the huge sprawling Munich Central Train Station after a uneventful two hour ride from Salzburg. I had made arrangements to stay at an Airbnb on Schillerstrasse a quick stroll from the train station. The rather "International" and slightly seed feel to the neighborhood bothered the Missus at first. But, in the end, She took to the area.

Of course, after settling in, the Missus wanted to head out right away….some things never change. I had wanted to check out the Viktualienmarkt, Munich's popular and very well known open air market. So, we headed on over. The Market has a long history, dating back to the 15th century….though it became a market by official decree in 1807.

Considering that the market is centrally located in Munich; it's amazing to consider that it covers an area of five-and-a-half acres!

Wanting just to quickly check things out; we started at the Maypole, which along with a bit of history, also lists out, like a typical traditional one, the various specialties of the region.

IMG_1035

Among the many traditions that surround the Maypole is the mischievous one where rival villages try to steal their neighbor's Maypole. Here's a funny story of a group from the tiny village of Neufinsing (population 4300) who managed to pull off a heist of the Munich Maypole! When the terms of ransom was settled; the thieves managed to get two meals and beer out of it! You gotta love it!

IMG_0865

We found folks in Munich and Stuttgart to be very well mannered and yet friendly in a reserved kind of way.

IMG_0869
IMG_0869 IMG_0870And also very social.

We'd return to the Viktualienmarkt and actually have a meal and spend a bit more time shopping later on during our stay.

We decided to take a quick walk to the Marienplatz ("Mary's Square"), considered to be the hustling-bustling heart of Munich. The massive New Town Hall ("Neues Rathaus") with its famous Glockenspiel takes up one entire side of the square.

IMG_7635

We'd return here several times during our stay as well.

For now; it was time to head back to the apartment to take a short rest before heading out to dinner. Dinner was in the North Eastern part of Munich. We ended up taking the U-Banh from the Goetheplatz station and got out at Giselastrasse. From there, Google Maps was my friend and we found Werneckhof by Geisel.

IMG_0929

The exterior is very low keyed; we were greeted immediately after entering the restaurant, shown our table, and then taken to meet the chef. We were the first customers this evening; so it was nice chatting with Chef Nakamura; whose father is Japanese and Mother German. The Chef was also interested in why we chose to dine at Werneckhof by Geisel. We mentioned our affinity for Franco-Japanese cuisine, we loved how well the flavors melded together, the precise cooking and presentation, how some places edged more on European and others more Asian. We then rattled off some of the places we'd been to; Sola, Takao Takano, Alliance, and the Chef smiled and mentioned cooking with these Chefs during events and having actually worked in the same kitchen as well. IMG_0883

Dinner started with nice aperitifs, then the appetizer course. We were thrilled that the appetizers revolved around white asparagus which was in season. Each using white asparagus in different preparations.

The pickled asparagus was a sight to behold, wonderfully presented, the tofu and sorrel vinaigrette amazingly smooth. The raw asparagus was amazingly sweet and was balanced out with rocket and camelina. The grilled version was probably the most mundane of the trio; though you really couldn't complain about the quality of the product. The preparations was a nice way to enjoy and appreciate how delicious white asparagus is.

IMG_0875
IMG_0875

IMG_0882

IMG_7641

The Missus and I each took one of the tasting menus so, even though there was some overlap we'd be able to get a nice, full range of dishes.

Up next for me was the "Hamachi". Basically a Yellowtail Tatare and some sliced like sashimi.

IMG_0887

This was a wonderful range of textures; the firm, yet buttery Hamachi, the thick, rich parsley sauce, and in an interesting touch, the marinade in buttermilk, which added a pleasant milky-acidity to the dish.

First up for the Missus was the Langoustine in Shiitake Aspic, with Oyster and Anchovies.

IMG_7642

I wasn't sure how all these really strong flavors would work together; but there was a good amount of balance in the earthy versus the oceany-savory…..and that langoustine basically melted in your mouth!

We both had the Bavarian Salmon Trout (Steelhead) as our next dish.

IMG_0891

The sesame and kombu beurre blanc was quite interesting adding a mixture of nutty-slightly briny flavors to the very tender fish. Yuzu added a nice acidity that helped to cut the richness. In a fairly humorous moment, the Maître'd Markus, a very mellow and friendly young man, ambled on over and started explaining what Yuzu and Kombu was……I started laughing and told him "I'm Japanese" and he cracked up saying that most of the customers, especially the German customers have no idea what these ingredients are and for many, the flavors are still mysterious and exotic. I really enjoyed chatting with Markus and his twin brother, who is the Sommelier, Tobias.

Next dish up, the Gilthead Seabream, another overlap in our tasting menu.

IMG_0893

The rice was a bit underdone; but the pressed octopus and especially the fish based sauce was an amazing umami bomb. The fish was perfectly tender; I'm thinking it might have been sous vide.

At this point, we were asked to stretch out legs and led downstairs.

IMG_0894

And we were taken to….."Shibuya"!

IMG_0895

In the restaurant's wine cellar, a little bar was set-up along with the fixins for some Kushi Shabu. And some great entertainment from the "Mad Professor"…..

IMG_7645

We got sake or shochu, and a couple of skewers……

IMG_0898

We were regaled with stories of the chef and other staff, various jokes, and of course everything ended with the perfect photo-op as well!

IMG_7646

We returned to our table for the "main courses". By now the dining room was starting to fill up.

IMG_0902

Next up for me was a super tender, rich, and delicious Luma (a company from Switzerland which specializes in Aged Pork) Pork Belly topped with wonderfully earthy morel mushrooms.

IMG_0906

The Missus had nice, though rather forgettable (compared to the pork belly) BBQ Eel.

IMG_0908

And the meal's crescendo for me was the Ozaki Wagyu……whoa man.

IMG_0910

And that truffle sauce….with a nice savory-spicy touch of Gochujang…….

The Missus's Koji Brined Grilled Saddle of Venison was also a big winner.

IMG_0913

The lovely, flavor of the pasture, perfectly cooked, fork tender, the jus amazing….a touch of wasabi…good lord; an amazing dish!

And as a palate cleanser…the Missus absolutely loved Erna….the name of the Kombucha's Scoby…..

IMG_0914

Dessert here were no joke……the Missus was in heaven.

Shiso, Medlar, Elderflower, and Yogurt.

IMG_0916

Mara de Bois Strawberries, Tahitian Vanilla, Tonka Bean, and Sansho.

IMG_0920

Hojicha, Raspberry and Lemon Balm.

IMG_0923

I thought the snacks that were brought out with the check were presented wonderfully, on a map of Munich where these confections were created.

IMG_0925

And I really enjoyed the fortune cookies.

IMG_0927 IMG_0900We really enjoyed our meal at Werneckhof by Geisel. And much like our meal at Takao Takano a mere six months before; it was definitely one of the best meals we've had. We loved the effcient yet relaxed service and vibe; not stuffy in the least, a nice playfulness, but with seriously executed food. Markus and Tobias were amazing…….I still remember their names. And that's a photo of Chef Nakamura stirring the pot as a child to the right……he's been cooking for a long time!

I seriously think we'll try to return.

Werneckhof by Geisel
Werneckstrasse 11
80802 München, Germany

We caught a taxi back to the apartment….there were some road closures, so we had the very friendly cabbie drop us off a couple of blocks from our residence. The short walk back actually did us good. We'd get a great night's sleep and wake ready for another busy day!

Thanks for stopping by!

Grocery Shopping in the Time of Covid – 19…..Mostly a Bunch of Photos

***** Some really great comments on this post. Check them out!

Unless you've just returned from several months on another planet; you know about our current Covid-19 outbreak. So, I'm just going to mostly go with photos….with just a smidge of text.

Covid shopping 01

The first time I really ran into things was when I needed to make food for Frankie….I needed chicken thighs; I usually get them from Costco…but heck, there's no way I was going to make it in there. So, I tried to find some….going to everywhere from Sprouts….to Smart and Final….to Zion Market…..etc, etc, etc……

Covid shopping 02
Covid shopping 02
Covid shopping 02
Covid shopping 02

I finally found some at Sprouts on Genesee and managed to make him some food….I'm going to have to make more this weekend; but things have gotten a bit under control…..though I think rice (and toilet paper) seem to be in demand.

Covid shopping 04

And soon enough, there were limits placed……

Covid shopping 07

Along with modified hours.

And now, with social distancing in place……there are limits on amount of folks allowed in at once. I first ran into this at Seisels.

Covid shopping 08

Here's the line today at Nijiya around 1030. They are opening at 10am and will close at 6pm.

Covid shopping 09

It was very orderly and wonderful young lady working would ask if you want a basket or wagon and would spray sanitizer on it before turning it over to you.

Covid shopping 10

And overall, I have noticed that people have been kind, thoughtful, and patient……other than that guy at Costco Gas who yelled at me, "you people are why we have Coronavirus". There's always one, isn't there?

And heck, if you're wondering if you have enough TP; you might want to use this tool (???). According to this I should have enough for 48 days at least.

I hope you are all in good health. Hang in there!

Happy New Year!

Happy 2020 to you all!

Not much to see here that's different from previous years. Like the past fourteen New Years Eves, I started my day by checking out the Osechi at Nijiya, Mitsuwa, and Marukai.

NYE 01
NYE 01

These days it seems that most folks preorder their Osechi. Still, traditions die hard……

And in them of traditions; like we've done the last 2 NYEs, we had an early dinner at Et Voilà! 

Didn't take many photos as we just kind of enjoyed the evening…..

NYE EV 02
NYE EV 02
NYE EV 02 NYE EV 01We haven't been to ET in a while and I just noticed the "Break Me. Don't Cut Me!" Sticker on the baguette……

An enjoyable meal overall.

Et Voilà!
3015 Adams Ave
San Diego, CA 92116

As for today…well, I made the Missus Red Cooked Wagyu Shortribs, while I did my usual, traditional soba.

New Year Soba

And so we turn the page on another year……

And we'd like to send out our best wishes for a wonderful and delici-yoso 2020!

Happy New Year!

Lyon – Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse and Lunch at Chez les Gones

We were really enjoying our short time in Lyon, from the Silk Festival and Vieux Lyon, to the Basilica and an amazing dinner at Takao Takano. We'd seen a lot during that long first day, but there was another place I just needed to visit.

But first, we decided to take a nice morning walk.

IMG_2821

Down to Place Bellecour it's such a vast square right in the middle of Presqu'ile.

IMG_2822

There's the Equestrian Statue of Louis XIV, which was an important landmark for us.

IMG_2823

We had to catch our train back to Paris from Gare de Lyon-Perrache not our arrival station Lyon Part-Dieu. We had asked for some directions earlier and was basically told to follow Louis's "bout du cheval"…the "horse's butt" straight, ahem, down Rue Victor Hugo. Which were very accurate directions.

We headed toward the Saône and just ambled along……

IMG_2824
IMG_2824

IMG_6019

Right past the Passerelle du Palais de Justice we found a outdoor market…..not very crowded on this rather chilly morning. This is the Marché Alimentaire Saint-Antoine Célestins which runs Tuesdays to Sundays from 6am to 1pm.

IMG_2827
IMG_2827
IMG_2827
IMG_2827

The market is located on Quai Saint-Antoine between Passerelle du Palais de Justice  and Pont Maréchal Juin.

IMG_2839

Being right at Rue Grenette meant it would basically be a straight shot to our next destination which La Part-Dieu neighborhood. IMG_2840

I mentioned Paul Bocuse in my first Lyon post, much revered, especially in his home of Lyon…..a man who was called the "Culinary Pope"; for those who are Anthony Bourdain fans, just look at this picture. 'Nuff said.

I wanted to visit the marketplace that bore his name; Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse.

Plus, I love these market halls……I always get a better understanding of the cuisine of a city, when I get to walk around the marketplaces.

IMG_2876

And there were indeed some top notch products for sale.

IMG_2847
IMG_2847
IMG_2847

Visiting made me wish we had more time….as it was, we had meals planned out.

IMG_2854

We were getting a bit hungry, so we searched among the seemingly endless stands that wind their way thru the gleaming market hall.

IMG_2858

And settled for one that served some traditional Bouchon fare and one dish I had been waiting to try as well.

IMG_2861 IMG_2862We were seated at one of the small tables and the Missus ordered some sparkling water and a glass of wine for Herself.

I ordered the food……..which took a while…..actually a good sign to us.

The Missus had enjoyed Her Andouillette so much at Bouchon des Filles that She ordered it here.

IMG_2865 IMG_2866Which was served with some mushy vegetables and pretty tasty, but super buttered Gratin Dauphinoise (Scalloped Potatoes).

Like the previous version, this basically exploded upon being touched by a knife. This one was pretty funky and really chewy, the mustard sauce did it no favors.

IMG_2868

I ordered the Tablier de Sapeur (The Sapper's Apron).

IMG_2870 IMG_2871The tripe was nicely breaded and fried; layers of different textures; the crunchy breading, the chewy layer of tripe, and some additional meaty crunchiness of the rumen. It was very mild in flavor and the sauce gribiche helped things along.

Like with the Missus's dish; I didn't care for the vegetables or potatoes much.

This was an interesting meal; much more rustic than what we'd had two nights before at the Bouchon. Still, it was fairly inexpensive…and I got to have dish I'd been wanting to try.

Chez les Gones – In Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse
102 cours la Fayette
69003 Lyon, France

After the meal the Missus had Her eye on dessert.

IMG_2874

And we took our sweet time getting back to the apartment.

Church of the Immaculate Conception

Stopping to do some shopping along the way.

IMG_2880
IMG_2880

By the time we got back it was mid-afternoon.

It was time for a nap…..and then….well, dinner of course!

Thanks for stopping by!

The Croissant Files – The French Oven, Bread Bar (Little Italy Mercato), and Prager Brothers (Little Italy Mercato)

The Missus and I were planning a trip….well, this one is basically four trips out, and we started ruminating about croissants…..do we miss Paris, and even there, it can be hard to find a good croissant….to be honest, we've had our share of not so good croissants (au buerre) in Paris as well. The discussion reminded me that I had a couple croissant photos just waiting for a post. I guess today's the day. So, "allons y"…..

The French Oven:

Several folks in the office, who live in the Scripps Ranch area kept on telling me about The French Oven, telling me it's run by a fifth generation Boulanger from France. So, a few weekends later, I headed on over to a little strip mall in Scripps Ranch.

French Oven 01

French Oven 02 French Oven 03Man the place was hopping!

Service was fast, I believe the owner was working the front of house as he and another gentleman were speaking in French. It kinda made my morning.

As for the croissant, while it was the best of the three in post, well, it was okay…..light with a decent flakey-crispness, but really lacking in butteriness, and when broken lacked that hint of yeastiness we love.

French Oven 04

Not bad.

You can read Cathy's post on The French Oven here.

The French Oven Bakery
10299 Scripps Trail Suite E
San Diego, CA 92131

Bread Bar (at the Little Italy Mercato):

The following week, I dropped by the Little Italy Mercato to do some shopping. And decided to pick up a couple of croissants for the Missus and I to try. First, was from Bread Bar.

Bread Bar 01

Bread Bar 02 Bread Bar  03This was more crumbly than flakey and crisp. It had enough salt, but lacked a good buttery flavor and was too dry. It also had that fishiness that pastries in the states sometimes have, usually from the eggs used, which both the Missus and I don't care for.

Bread Bar in the Little Italy Mercato.

Prager Brothers (at the Little Italy Mercato):

We enjoy the bread from Prager Brothers and should probably head up to their bakery in Carlsbad. But until then…..

Prager Bros 01

The croissant was not bad; but lacking in enough butteriness, salt, and yeastiness to us. The texture of the interior was a bit too soft for us.

Prager Bros 02

We'll stick to getting their wonderful breads.

Prager Brothers at the Little Italy Mercato.

So….the search goes on…..

Colmar – Dinner at Brassierie Heydel, a Morning Walk Around Colmar, and Some Self-Catering

We'd had a wonderful day visiting the colorful villages of Alsace. Christopher was an amazing guide and even called and made reservations for dinner when I mentioned a specific Alsatian dish called Fleischschnacka.

When we headed out for dinner; it was already fairly dark in Colmar. Looking out from our terrace; Pont de Rue de Turenne was nice and quiet.

IMG_2531

The restaurant was centrally located, though not quite in the tourist center.

IMG_2540

IMG_5885

The folks working were quite friendly and the place was pretty quiet when we arrived. There just seemed to be few regular customers in the place.

IMG_5884

Though it filled up pretty quickly as we were ending our meal.

The Missus just had to have Her favorite; the Choucroute and figured my dish was going to be pretty hefty. We also got the Foie Gras entre to start.

IMG_2533

This was smooth, rather mild in offal tones, rich, and quite good.

The Missus enjoyed Her Choucroute.

IMG_2535

Though She said it was not a crisp and refreshing as the version at Le Petit Venise.

And then there was my "snails of meat" – Fleischschnacka. Man, this was a pretty hefty dish.

IMG_2537

Think of ground meat rolled in pasta; the two slices were a bit too much for me and fairly mild in flavor. I loved the potatoes and the green salad.

I'm not going into too much detail about Heydel; because, at least according to their Facebook page as of June 17th, the business is in the process of changing ownership.

Brasserie Heydel
45 rue des Clefs
68000, Colmar, France

IMG_2541

As you can see; Colmar is quite stunning at night as well.

It was wonderful waking in the morning and taking your espresso on the terrace.

The next morning we decided to explore Colmar's Old Town. The Pont de Rue de Turenne was quiet at this time of the day. You can see our apartment's terrace at the upper left of this photo.

IMG_2544

IMG_2545

Things were being set-up for the Christmas Market which was going to start that weekend.

IMG_2547

We used Rick Steves walk as a guide. We started at the Koïfhus; the Customs House. Trade made Colmar a wealthy city in the Middle Ages and the Customs House was the center of it all. Colmar had been granted Free Imperial City status by the Holy Roman Empire.

IMG_2553

Above the door on the south side of the building is this door. The plaque above the door designates Colmar as being an Imperial City.

IMG_2548

Above one of the portals you'll see this plaque.

IMG_2549

Jean Rapp, one of Napoleon's chief consuls was born in Colmar; supposedly here in the Customs House where his dad was a janitor.

In the square in front of the Customs House is this fountain.

IMG_2551

The fountain statue is of Lazarus von Schwendi. Who supposedly (it is considered a myth) brought the Tokaji (remember our dinner in Budapest) to Alsace. The statue was made by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi who also created something known as the Statue of Liberty.

From here we walked down Rue des Tanneurs. There's a channel right across the street. As we had learned in Modena, you need a close running water source for tanning leather. This is where the tanner in Colmar used to reside.

IMG_2555

From here we circled back a bit along the Marché Couvert.

IMG_2557
IMG_2557

And then up to Rue des Marchands ("Merchants Street").

IMG_2558

IMG_2560 IMG_2564Right up the street is one of the distinctive buildings in Colmar; Maison Pfister. Built in 1537 in Renaissance style, with biblical stories and figures painted into the walls. It's a beautiful and impressive building.

Right across the way is the carving that folks call the "Meter Man". It's the sign for a drape maker and he is holding the standard measure of length, Colmar's version of the meter. 

It's all quite entertaining……..

IMG_2562

As you can tell when looking at the photo of Maison Pfister….right past the structure is St Martin's Church, where we spent a few minutes lingering.

IMG_2566 - St Martins Church
IMG_2566 - St Martins Church

I'm always fascinated by clocks in these churches……

IMG_2569

We wandered down Rue des Boulangers…..

IMG_2573
IMG_2573

And since this was the "street of bakers" spent a bit of time shopping for gifts.

IMG_2576 IMG_2582From here we took a right on Rue des Tetes (street of heads) and came upon the façade of the Maison des Tetes ("House of Heads"). Now a luxury hotel; this structure was built in 1609 by a wine maker. Many heads, masks, and faces adorn the façade.

The most interesting one is found to the left of the entrance to the courtyard.

There you'll see what looks like a court jester; his belly sticking out, with hoofs in the place of feet. Go figure…..

IMG_2583
IMG_2583

It's quite a sight…..

IMG_5896

Though I haven't spent time on it; I need to mention all the wonderful signs that adorn the buildings…….

IMG_4488

From here we turned back and headed down the colorful streets of Colmar.

IMG_2586

And back to the Marché Couvert. We were staying in such a lovely apartment that we decided to take advantage of it and do some self-catering.

IMG_2588
IMG_2588

And combined with the cheese we Riquewihr and the cookies that Christopher had given to us as a gift; we had a very nice meal.

IMG_2594
IMG_2594
IMG_2594

IMG_4489 IMG_4490There's much to love about Colmar and Alsace in general. Beautiful half-timbered buildings, history and charm; with some humor thrown in.

I thank you for stopping by and sharing this with us!

Alsace – The Four Wonders of Alsace Part 2. Riquewihr and Kaysersberg

Like my previous post yesterday, there's not much food in this one. But I hope you'll enjoy more of the wonderful sights of Alsace!

After leaving Ribeauvillé, we headed a short way south to the medieval town of Riquewihr.

IMG_2439

Yet, another charming and beautiful village. During our drive time, we had a nice time chatting with Christopher. And he quickly picked up the fact that the Missus and I both enjoy food. So the first stop on that beautiful cobblestone street was this place.

IMG_2445

IMG_2441

Where Christopher and the really friendly young man working here plied us with cheese…….

IMG_2443

And when we decided to buy; they made sure to give us another round of tastings to make sure we were getting what we wanted.

IMG_2444

And what we wanted was Tomme….lots of Tomme; de Brebis (sheep), de Chevre (goat), and the Cave Aged Tomme. Man, it was good!

We'd end up having the cheese for lunch the following day back in Colmar.

Les Caves d'Affinage de Riquewihr
16 Rue du General de Gaulle
68340 Riquewihr, France

IMG_2446
IMG_2446 IMG_2449I mentioned earlier that Riquewihr is a medieval village. It was and basically still is a fortified town with ruins of the ramparts dating back to the 13th century still surrounding much of the town.

At the top of the main street is the "Dolder" (Belfry). We were told that the tower was originally built in 1291. The belfry was added in the 19th century and used to warn and inform the residents of approaching threats and groups.

There's actually a pretty little street outside the tower that runs along what is the ramparts of the town.

IMG_2452

And here is the "Obertor" ("Tall Gate") which helped to protect the city.

IMG_2482

IMG_5861 IMG_5864You can see that there was once a drawbridge to keep intruders out. The moat area is now a wonderful grassy parklike area.

That statue of the woman riding on a horse; was, if I recall, "La Dame du Parc".

The area along the ramparts is quite photogenic and makes for a nice stroll.

We were really enjoying our time in Alsace…..

IMG_2457
IMG_2457
IMG_2457

We were given some time to shop and perhaps grab some lunch in Riquewihr.

IMG_2466
IMG_2466

So we headed back down the main street; just taking our time…….

IMG_2467

We weren't very hungry; so just stopped by a patisserie on Rue du Général de Gaulle, named Patisserie Chez Chloe and got our caffeine fix, a quiche (which was terrible), and some sweets for the Missus.

IMG_2471
IMG_2471
IMG_2471

Patisserie Chez Chloe
24 Rue du Général de Gaulle
68340 Riquewihr, France

Well, at least the coffee perked me up! We then took to wandering some of the side streets and spent some time in the Christmas shop pictured near the top of this post; Féerie de Noël Käthe Wohlfahrt . Man, the buildings are so colorful here!

IMG_2481
IMG_2481

We even found a War Memorial down one of the side streets.
IMG_2481

Riquewihr; like Ribeauvillé is on the Alsace wine trail. And just walking a block or two down a street; you'll come to a sight like this.

IMG_2480

We then headed back up to the Obertor and met Christopher who took us outside the city for a view of the vineyards.

IMG_2485
IMG_2485

Speaking of wine; our next stop was a fun visit to Bott Frères Winery. We had such a great time that I pretty much forgot to take photos during the tour.

IMG_2493
IMG_2493

We ended up buying a case of wine and had it shipped back to San Diego. The Riesling Gran Cru was a favorite of the Missus's and also Frankie's Aunt Alle's Mom loved it as well!

While we were driving to our next stop Christopher asked us if we had heard of Kaysersberg. I said yes, and was asked what I knew about the city. I told him Nobel Prize winner Albert Schweitzer was from Kaysersberg. I'd taken quite a few Philosophy courses in college, you could say it was one of my "majors", though I really don't remember much about what I learned all these years later; I recall reading The Decay and the Restoration of Civilization and being quite affected by it. Christopher smiled and nodded; he then asked us if we had heard of Anthony Bourdain…..and then it came to me….I'd totally forgotten that he had committed suicide in Kaysersberg! You can read about the rest of the conversation at the end of this post.

We parked outside the village and strolled in.

IMG_2495
IMG_2495

The River Weiss runs through town, just adding to its beauty. No wonder Kaysersberg, like Eguisheim, won the Préféré des Français as favorite French Village this time 2017.

IMG_2506

IMG_2504

Christopher pointed out the details; like the platforms where women used to do the laundry in the river and details on the houses…..

IMG_2497

Of course, I was just distracted by the ducks…..

IMG_2505

The village is very charming and with Christmas around the corner at the time of our visit; there was a festive air to things…..

IMG_2507
IMG_2507
IMG_2507

Even the Fontaine Constantin was ready for the holidays!

IMG_2510

Christopher took us into the Eglise De l'Invention De La Sainte-Croix, Church of the Holy Cross.

IMG_2517
IMG_2517

The dramatic and impressive altarpiece dates back to the 16th century.

After our visit to the church we checked out some of the shops in the town.

IMG_2519 IMG_5871First stopping at the workshop of a shop that made hand blown glass. And then next to a an amazing shop full of Cuckoo Clocks. The really sweet young lady proceeded to set all the clocks to go off while we stood and watched….talk about over stimulation! It was a wall of chaos! Hilarious…..

As we wandered the side streets it seemed that Kaysersberg was much more populous than the published number of less than 5,000!

Like the other villages; take a short stroll one or two blocks down a side street and you're out in the vineyards. In this case with a castle as a backdrop!

IMG_2520

As we strolled thru town; Christopher asked us if we wanted to see the hotel where AB died; we instantly said "no", he seemed relieved….apparently many of his customers from the US make visiting the Chambard Hotel their primary goal when visiting Kaysersberg. I understand that Bourdain changed the way many look at travel, food, and culture……but…..

IMG_2530
IMG_2530

I can just imagine how this makes the residents of this beautiful village feel….most of whom had never heard of the man before his visit.

IMG_2524 IMG_2597There's a magical and like I said before, almost fairy-tale like feel to visiting these villages in Alsace. You are transported light years away from the hustle and bustle of big city life. We really enjoyed having Christopher as our guide, he gave us some cookies as a gift, and as we were headed back across the River Weiss, we were discussing various dishes we'd tried or were looking to try in Alsace. Upon me mentioning Fleischschnacka, he smiled and said, "I know just the place for you…." And proceeded to call a restaurant and make reservations for us for dinner! I think that says it all……

Dreamy, fairytale like villages and warm, friendly, hospitable people. That's Alsace.

Thanks for stopping by! 

Alsace – The Four Wonders of Alsace Tour Part 1. Eguisheim and Ribeauvillé

Not much food in this, and my next post. But if you love fairy tale like streets and lovely half-timbered houses, you might enjoy this post.

I got up early on our first full day in Alsace. We'd really come to enjoy Alsace the previous winter when we visited Strasbourg. Though it was a week before the Christmas Markets opened in Colmar, we had enjoyed the previous evening. On this day we had arranged for a small group tour from Alsace Original Experiences called the Four Wonders of Alsace, which visited four different villages in Alsace.

But first, even though we were still satisfied from our rather large dinner the night before, we needed some sustenance. While the Missus woke up; I headed down Rue Turenne.

IMG_5839

Of course, I had to walk over to the bridge and take a look at our wonderful balcony.

IMG_2372

I had seen an Artisan Boulangerie on our street the night before, so I walked on over to Maison Alexandre.

IMG_5841

And picked up two croissants for breakfast.

La Maison Alexandre
34 Rue Turenne
68000 Colmar, France

I got back to the apartment and the Missus popped a couple of pods in the Nespresso Machine and we had espresso and our croissants.

IMG_2373

Unfortunately, these weren't very good; it lacked a nice crisp flakiness and butteriness. Oh well……

A short while later, we headed downstairs to be picked up for our small group tour. A few minutes later, our driver/guide arrived. We got really lucky as there were no other people on the tour for this day. So, we basically had our own private tour. And our guide, Christopher, was amazing!

The Missus and I felt like we had stepped into a Fairy Tale as we walked the cobblestone street of our first stop; Eguisheim.

IMG_2374

The colorful half-timbered houses, the tiny streets, the charming décor just transported us. And, in fact, two of the villages wed visit on this tour, Ribeauvillé and Riquewihr was the inspiration for Belle's hometown in Beauty and the Beast! And while both of those villages were charming and lovely, it's Eguisheim that still stands out in our mind. In fact, in 2013, Eguisheim won the Préféré des Français and declared the "Favorite Village in France". And we could see why.

IMG_2377

As we headed up the beautiful Rue du Remparts, Christopher pointed out a ton of little details to us. That cute skinny house in the middle of the photo above, now the home of a business, Le Pigeonnier, dates back to the 15th century.

IMG_2381

Even in winter; the street bursts with color and adorable ornamentation.

IMG_2383
IMG_2383
IMG_2383

Christopher went through small details on the structures and I took photos, though I should have taken notes so I'd have remembered what these small details told about the families, vocations, and social standing of the folks who once lived here.

IMG_2387
IMG_2387
IMG_2387
IMG_2387
IMG_2387

Storks are symbols of fertility and good luck in Alsace. They are treasured and build their nests on top of roofs, steeples, and other high areas. IMG_2382

They were once threatened with extinction in Alsace, but a conservation program in the region has allowed for a rebound in mating pairs. And though they usually migrate South for the winter; Christopher pointed out a couple of stray "couples"(most White Storks are monogamous and share duties for raising their young) still hanging around in late November.

Christopher told us we were extremely lucky to see storks this time of the year and it must be a good omen.

IMG_2385

As we made a circle back to the main road, we passed the rather hulking looking Church of Saint Peter and Paul.

IMG_2390

Christopher took us in; there was something he wanted us to see.

IMG_2391

Off on the "porch" to the side is a wooden Vierge Ourvante, an "Opening Virgin". Which dates back to the 13th or 14th Century.

IMG_2392

This is a very rare artifact and is quite striking.

IMG_2393

The center of this charming village is the Place du Château Saint-Léon, the former site of a castle. This area had been settled by first the Gauls, then the Romans.

IMG_2409

Notice the statue and the church? Well, a former Pope and Saint; Leo IX was born in Eguisheim in, get this 1002! That chapel is named Chapelle Saint-Léon IX and was built and dedicated to Saint Leo in 1894.

IMG_2406

It's a quaint, tiny chapel, which houses relics of the former Pope and Saint.

IMG_2404

The frescoes in the chapel represent the seven scenes from the life of Saint Leo.

IMG_2401

And though it was rather dark when we entered……

IMG_2397

A coin in the machine changes that in an instant!

IMG_2400

IMG_2405

Our next stop on the tour was the charming, but bustling town of Ribeauvillé.

IMG_2411 IMG_2415The old town is charming and as you'll quickly notice has quite a few "music" oriented statues, symbols, and icons.

Originally known as Rappoltsweiler, then becoming Rathaldovilare, in the 8th century, the village was passed on to the noble family of Rappoltstein. The Lord of Rappoltstein was the protector of the wandering minstrels of the land, who paid him a tax for protection. In fact, the minstrels had their own chapel in the village and even their own patron Saint! They used to celebrate at the chapel on September 8th and something similar still occurs on the first Sunday in September in Ribeauvillé; a festival called Pfifferdaj ("Fiddler's Festival"), which claims to be the oldest festival in Alsace.

IMG_2417

Christopher lead along the main street making stops along the way to tell us stories about Ribeauvillé.

IMG_2418

The main square is named Place de Mairie and a large gate and tower; named the Butcher's Tower (Tour des Bouchers), named after the slaughterhouse and butcher stalls that were located at its base.

IMG_2419

The gate separates what was once the upper and lower towns of Ribeauvillé.

Speaking of butchers……this wonderful half timbered house……

IMG_2431

Sits atop a very popular Boucherie named Siedel Hubert.

IMG_2432

We ended up spending some time in the shop and purchasing some foie gras on the way back down.

Siedel Hubert
78 Grand'Rue
68150 Ribeauvillé, France

A bit further up the street was a beautiful square Place de la Sinne and the wonderful half-timbered houses.

IMG_2427

Minstrels once used to gather around this fountain and in the inns that lined the square.

Christopher also pointed out various signs along the way……

IMG_2426

And then asked us if we'd like to do some exploring and shopping on our own. So, after setting up our meeting place (the piper statue), we wondered around, did a bit of shopping.

IMG_2428

And spent a good amount of time at Siedel Hubert, before meeting Christopher at the location designated.

We were charmed and taken in by these villages in Alsace.

IMG_2412
IMG_2412

And there were still several more stops to go! Stay tuned!

Thanks for stopping by!

Ol’ Rodeo’s Market and The Yogurt Mill- Lunch and dessert in El Cajon (Bostonia)

Thanks for stopping by to read about food here on mmm-yoso!!! today.  Kirk is enjoying the weekend and Cathy is writing.  

El Cajon has some interesting, local places which have withstood the test of time. I haven't written or even photographed some of my 'little secrets' in over ten years of blogging and finally have gotten around to it.  

Located at the South East corner of Broadway at Mollison, this small market is known for its meats, fresh tortillas and small kitchen, located just to the right when you walk in.Fullsizeoutput_cd3
Fullsizeoutput_cd3 The menu is uncomplicated.  Everything is fresh and prepared to order, by taking the meats straight from the sales counter over to the kitchen area.  There are a few (5) tables in the center of the store (which has a small Produce area, wall of refrigerated beverages, wall of refrigerated staples and one (two sided) set of shelves). 

IMG_9066IMG_9066IMG_9066IMG_9066These photos were all taken from my seat at the table.  Ol' Rodeo's is small.  
Fullsizeoutput_cd3 Soon enough, our 'Combination Plate' ($6.99) order of birria (choice of goat or beef; this is goat) was brought over (also, four freshly warmed tortillas, not pictured). This flavorful, rich, spicy stew hits all the taste points.  IMG_9070The obligatory leftover photo; you can see bay leaf and some bones and gristle.  This large bowl of stew had close to a pound of meat in it. The rice and beans here are very good in addition to the fresh corn tortillas.
Fullsizeoutput_cd3 We also ordered an adobada taco ($2.49), so we had something to eat while the other person was enjoying the birria.  As mentioned, the meat for grilling was pulled from the meat counter (where it is $3.99/lb).  The pork pieces, marinated in red chile sauce with vinegar and oregano was so fresh and flavorful.  I was asked if I wanted avocado or guacamole on top.  No extra charge. 

Superior quality food, wonderful people working here (it's a Mom and Pop place).  Known for its carne asada, which will be a separate post.  

Ol' Rodeo's Meat Market 927 Broadway El Cajon 92021 (619) 401-7351 

Want dessert? Go out to the parking lot…

Fullsizeoutput_cd4This landmark building used to be a pizza place called "The Leaning Tower" (there were two other locations in San Diego; one is still partially standing (last photo) and the other, which anchored Clairmont Square, is gone).  This family run frozen yogurt business has existed for 41 years and this location was purchased when the Leaning Tower of Pizza went out of business, around 1988. 
Fullsizeoutput_cd4 IMG_9051 The menu changes a bit each day and there is always one dairy free and one sugar free option, as well as two or three low fat yogurts in addition to nonfat choices. There are plenty of topping choices, but we are purists. 
Fullsizeoutput_cd4 Tart Mango and Pomegranate Blueberry, Baby size ($3.60)- a lot of frozen yogurt to share (especially after that birria). Tart, well flavored, quality yogurt.

Yogurt Mill 935 Broadway El Cajon 92021 Open daily Mon-Thur 10-10, Fri-Sat 10-11 Sun 11-10

This is why you can walk from Ol' Rodeo to The Yogurt Mill…
Fullsizeoutput_cd4