Jordan (Before Covid) – Petra

**** I need to dedicate this post to two "FOYs", Kerri, who I know has been waiting for this one and RonR who emailed me – "This morning for the third year in a row I cancelled (postponed?) our 3 month European tour which of course included Tel Aviv, Israel, and Petra. Then, of course I opened up my favorite website every morning and there you are talking about Tel Aviv. Aaarrrggghhh!" Oh man, I'm so sorry Ron, I hope you'll be able to visit Petra and Wadi Rum soon!

Also, not much food in this one….even though I'm going to try to keep verbiage to a minimum, it's pretty looong….so I wouldn't be bothered at all if you decide to come back tomorrow for a more food focused post!

After a nice, relaxing evening at the Intercontinental Aqaba a van arrived to pick us up in the morning. We saw the landscape change as we drove from Aqaba to the town of Wadi Musa.

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We stopped twice for bathroom breaks; once at a viewpoint above Wadi Musa and Petra….which was interesting…..you'd never know what lay in the valley below from here.

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We arrived a Wadi Musa and transferred to a larger van with several other folks' including a wonderful couple from Australia whose company we really enjoyed! The tour company, Eco Desert Tours was amazing. They dropped our luggage at our hotel while we were dropped off at the rather chaotic ticketing area.

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Where we met up with our guide. Once everyone was accounted for, we headed off, down the Bab el-Siq, the path and valley that leads to the Siq. 

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There are actually tombs and what is called Djinn Blocks, carved blocks of stone. The word means something along the lines of "spirit" in Arabic, but is also credited with being the origin of the word "genie".

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And soon enough you reach the Siq, the narrow gorge which leads to into Petra.

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There's a lot to see here as well, like the Niche Monument, a shrine created with two Djinn blocks.

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IMG_3501 IMG_6460  This of course, is just an "appetizer" as most folks come to see what right ahead. It goes without saying that the last few steps to view Al-Khazneh, known as the Treasury is quite dramatic in its own right.  First, you get a peek, then as you walk closer, it comes slowly into view….the pink-hued wonder, with intricate designs chiseled on it.

One could imagine the moment that Swiss explorer JL Burckhardt, disguised as a Muslim Scholar, became the first Westerner to enter Petra, and laid eyes upon this amazing structure.

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It's about a mile to get to the Treasury; which of course, is the most crowded area of Petra. With folks selling Camel rides to various other items……

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If you're not inclined to walking…well, you can catch a wagon, camel, or even a mule to get around…….

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The portion past the Treasury is called the Outer Siq and is comprised of burial chambers of various designs.

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We walked on over to the Street of Facades, a collection of more tombs, these crowded closer together.

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Carved into the mountain right past the Street of Facades into El-Khubtha Mountain are what's called the "Royal Tombs".

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And then beyond that; the actual city of Petra.

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And then, it was lunch time. We had chosen just the simple lunch. We were then told we'd have free time to explore and the meeting place and time were indicated to us.

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Which was perfectly fine. Actually, the falafel were not bad at all.

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And then we set off exploring……..and had a great time exploring the City….the Great Temple and Qasr al-Bint, a Nabataean Temple.

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Of course the Missus couldn't help but climb and explore the Royal Tombs.

After which we headed back to the Treasury.

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It was amazing how the colors seemed to change as the sun moved across the sky.

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The Missus had seen folks standing on the cliff across from the Treasury…and so…She just had to get there…..sigh.

So, we found a trail across from the Treasury and started climbing up. As I was set to start climbing I saw a gentleman wearing a long black robe and a clerical collar…my goodness; it was a priest climbing and inching his way down the rocks! I stuck out my hand and helped him down the last few steps. He smiles at me and said: "thank you my son"!

Anyway, it wasn't a super hard, but not an easy climb up. But of course, the Missus made it look easy.

I will say, the view was amazing.

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Pretty amazing huh?

Of course, the climb down was much harder than going up. But…I'm here right? So I obviously made it.

By now we met our guide, whom we tipped, and told the nice guy that we'd just walk back to the hotel we were staying, the Petra Palace. We chatted on the way back to the hotel and decided to return and do the Petra by Night light show. But first; it was time to check in, hydrate, and most importantly, take a nap!

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If you stuck around to the end of this post I thank you.

Have a great week!

Roadtrip (During Covid-19) – Revisits to Les Petites Canailles, the Alchemist Garden, and Spearhead Coffee (Paso Robles)

At the beginning of last October, the Missus and I decided to do yet another roadtrip……this time to Yosemite. We decided to make stops in Paso Robles at both ends of the trip. We were excited to revisit a couple of our favorites, Les Petites Canailles and the Alchemist Garden. I'll keep verbiage to a minimum since I've posted on these places several times already. LPC Rev 02

We started the evening at Les Petites Canailles and this time were seated indoors. Things were spaced out quite nicely and we felt comfortable with the set-up.

Sadly, the Rabbit Terrine we had enjoyed so much on our previous visit was no longer on the menu.

And overall, this meal did not quite hit all of the "high notes" as the last time we had visited.

Still, LPC makes one of my favorite versions of Beef Tartare, served at the perfect temperature, great balance in flavors and textures.

Still a winnah!

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The Spanish Octopus was not quite as good this time around as it was on the the tough side.

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I was interested in the pasta dish since the conchiglie, basically shell pasta was made locally by Etto. The texture of the pasta was perfect and it was dressed well. Sadly, the pistachio pesto was way too mild and there just wasn't enough acidity brought on by the sun dried tomato. 

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We would however, drop by Etto's shop in Tin City on our way back and bought some of their pasta.

The Mushrooms en Persillade with confit egg yolk was fairly good….though it needed a bit more salt and seasoning in our mind.

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The Leeks a la Plancha was quite good, as the leeks were nicely charred, bringing out the herbaceous sweetness, the Espelette Pepper added a nice smokiness and just the lightest touch of heat; we actually wished there was more. Loved the mild sweetness, nutty – butteriness, and distinct flavor the pine nuts brought to this dish…..which it surely would have added to the pasta dish.

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Overall, I enjoyed this meal more than the Missus (I could have that beef tartare weekly)…….I'm not sure we'll be returning here for a while.

Les Petites Canailles
1215 Spring St.
Paso Robles, CA 93446

Of course our next stop was the Alchemist Garden….it was our third visit and it did not disappoint.

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While the Missus got one of the cocktails off the menu……I wanted something custom made….so, I asked for an Old Fashioned, mentioning I like smoky tones….and the Mixologist was off to the races.

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He torched some sage and then covered it to get a more smoky flavor and made me an amazing Old Fashioned.

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I guess the Missus really wasn't too satisfied with our meal LPC….She ordered some fries; which were pretty good.

AG Rev 05 IMG_3660  Which meant that I could have another cocktail. This time the gentleman had something else up his sleeve. He asked me if I'd ever had a "Clear Old Fashioned"….I told him that I'd heard of it; but had never had one…….so….we were then off to the races!

He explained making the cocktail to me while putting it together. He took his time trying to finds the perfect ice cube; saying that "it had to be clear enough that after stirring a bit, it would be transparent when the cocktail was served"!

He told me that in his opinion Rosemary was the perfect match for this cocktail and set off to smoke some for the drink.

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And yes, it's difficult to make out the ice cube when the drink was served.

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Man, these folks are artists……….

The Alchemists' Garden
1144 Pine St.
Paso Robles, CA 93446

The next morning; while I went to refuel the car, the Missus went across the street to get us some coffee at Spearhead Coffee.

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The Missus got Her pour over and I a cold brew and were we ready to hit the road.

Spearhead Coffee
619 12th St.
Paso Robles, CA 93446

There's something we really enjoy about Paso Robles…the vibe, the people….the sense of humor and artsiness…..

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Thanks for stopping by!

Where in the World Were We?

Man, when was the last time I typed that out? Well, it had been quite a long time since we "really" travelled, I mean the domestic road trips were fun, but we missed travelling internationally. So, back in November, when it looked like Delta was waning, we started making plans….nothing too far mind you; in fact we planned to visit the last place we visited outside the US, back in February of 2020…..man, it seems like a decade ago.

And then Omicron came along…….sigh. So, we had a decision to make……

In the end, with both the Missus and I fully vaccinated and boosted, having no pre-existing conditions, we decided to go ahead. I had also heard from our good friend "Alle" that folks in Mexico were really compliant with regards to wearing masks….and she wasn't kidding….almost everyone wore KN95s too! They even wore the masks outdoors…….the only folks not wearing masks were….well…..you know from where. We had temperature checks before entering most shops; were asked to sanitize….there were a few exceptions and I'll note my observations in future posts. In fact, when entering one of the restaurants were were misted with……..vinegar!?!?! 

Anyway, we really enjoyed our trip. 

We got to revisit some favorites of ours…..

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And are slowly working our way thru the "list" of places we want to check out…..

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We hired a private driver for take us to our next destination……where checking out at least one rooftop restaurant/bar is a must. And you can clearly see why.

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And such colorful streets…..

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We were the only folks staying at our 6 room B&B, which we really enjoyed.

And had some pretty darn good food as well.

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Our third and final stop was our favorite……

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We actually took a private walking tour which was the highlight of our trip. 

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Where we learned some history about this fine city…….

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And our favorite restaurant of this trip was here as well……we loved it so much that we returned on our last evening…….

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The overall travelling experience felt somewhat surreal at times; though we appreciated the warm and friendly people and the Covid precautions as well. We felt safe during our stay.

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Yes, "Viva la Vida"….but also care about your fellow man, have compassion, respect……..

Hope everyone is doing well! Take care!

From Israel to Jordan (Before Covid) – Masada, the Dead Sea, and the InterContinental Aqaba

**** Not much food in this one as I try to get our pre-Covid trip posts done.

We decided to use guides during our trip to Israel-Palestine-Jordan because things were a bit spread out and transportation a bit more complicated than we wanted to deal with. We also wanted to learn about the sites we visited and also just enjoy the ride. We contracted the company, Desert Eco Tours to help with coordinating our tours thru Israel and Jordan. They were wonderful to deal with and we got a private tour of Masada and the Dead Sea and some really fun group tours to Petra and Wadi Rum.

On this day, our guide, David was perfectly on time and we headed off. First visiting areas near Ein Gedi so we could get a bit more familiar with the area.

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From our viewpoint we had wonderful views and could see folks headed toward the oasis and waterfall.

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From here it was off to Masada, a place I was a bit fascinated in since I had to read a book for a book report waaaay back in Intermediate School (that would be "Middle School" for most folks). There are three different "paths" you can use to walk/hike up to the fortress, but we took the Cable Car to the Visitors Center and then out into the plateau and amazing views of the ruins.

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There was one very interesting thing about David……he does his tours barefoot! He told us that it "keeps him in touch with the earth and history"….

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Also, when we arrived he broke out a conch shell and just like Hawaii, proceeded to blow into it!

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I came to learn that the "Conch Shell Trumpet" played a large part in many cultures!

And I was captivated by the crows who seemed to "guard" the area…..which belonged to them.

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A lot of what is known about Masada was written and compiled by Josephus Flavius, who wrote that the first fortification of Masada began in the 1st century BC; though that has never been confirmed. Between 37BC and 31BC Herod the Great built two palaces. It provided a protected and fortified winter haven, which included cisterns, storerooms, and a casemate wall. If you're like me; the first time you really read about Masada was about the siege where a group of Jews, less than a thousand who then held off the Romans for 2 years before the walls were breached. According to the story, upon having the fortress breached, the Jews dispatched each other rather than surrender to the Romans.

You can still see the remains of the Roman base camps from the mountain.

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We wandered the ruins from the Columbarium Tower Ruins.

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To the Western Palace, to the Hanging Palace which had three terraces.

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You could actually see folks hiking up the mountain. I'm quite glad that we chose the cable car!

The terraces were my favorite part of the ruins.

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The Northern Palace - Masada
The Northern Palace - Masada

This complex, called the "Hanging Palace" was Herod's private residence. The views were quite dramatic…..

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At least that's what this little fella' kept telling me…..

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The Northern Palace - Masada

It was quite an amazing place to visit.

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We had a quick bite to eat in the restaurant before heading to our next stop.

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Where I got to swim….well, actually float in the Dead Sea. Because of the high salt concentration; over 30%, the water feels very "thick" and floating is easy….I did a back float and because of the density of the water, I had to work to stand back up. An interesting experience.

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From here David drove us to the Eilat Border Crossing; where we crossed on over to Jordan.

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A representative from the tour company greeted us as we crossed the border and then got us a taxi to our accommodations for the evening; the Intercontinental Hotel Aqaba.

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A beachside resort…..the rooms were quite comfortable.

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Dinner was a pretty standard buffet.

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And we took a nice walk around the pool area after dinner.

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We slept well and had a light breakfast.

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Before checking out and meeting our driver. Next stop?

Petra!

Thanks for stopping by!

Tel Aviv (Before Covid) – HaBasta, Abu Hassan, and Falafel Ratzon

*** Here's a condensed post as I try to finish up all our pre-Covid trip reports.

Our flight from Paris to Tel Aviv on EL AL was on time and uneventful.

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We were fed pretty well on the flight and arrived at Ben Gurion Airport right before 5pm. Getting a taxi to our hotel was also very easy and took about half an hour. Not quite sure about how long it would take, I made reservations at a restaurant I wanted to try, which was a nice walk from our hotel at 8pm. The restaurant is right next to the Carmel Market and I'd read a bit about the place.

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On this Sunday evening, things were pretty quiet….and we really enjoyed the wonderful flavors and freshness of the food.

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From the Cauliflower with Tahini….

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To the Creamy-Smoky eggplant, to the slightly tangy-acidic Matbucha (a Arabic/Moroccan Roasted Tomato dish).

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And the savory Cured Fish with Soft Egg…..

IMG_3219 IMG_9043  This was a wonderful meal and a great way to start our visit to Israel. I wish we were a bit more hungry and were able to try more dishes, but we left quite satisfied.

HaBasta
HaShomer St. 4
Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel

The next morning; our only full day in Tel Aviv, we headed out early. Taking a walk thru the very quiet (on this morning) Carmel Market.

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The fragrance of spices floating thru the air…..

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And then past Hassan Bek Mosque….

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To Charles Clore Park, where we could see Old Jaffa ahead of us.

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We walked along to the beach area, where we saw this cat…..

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Who was undoubtedly checking out these pooches having a great day at the beach!

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We took a quick detour to check out the the Clock Tower and Saraya House in the old town.

IMG_3245_02  51709643798_30bb8b80f9_oThere is so much much history here.

We took time to check out the Clock Tower which was built by the Ottoman's in 1901. 

That structure to the left of the clock tower is the Saraya House and was once the residence and offices of the Turkish Governor. It was blown up by the Lehi a militant group.

We walked along the street checking out various churches and folks just going thru daily life.

DSC00724 IMG_3255 (2)  There was quite a bit to take in here…… from the Monastery of St Nicholas to many other places which had no signs…….

There always seemed to be something that would catch your eye.

I was starting to get a bit hungry and really wanted to try a place that wasn't too far away so we headed up the stairs from Nemal Yafo Street connecting to HaShahaf Street….

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To a place I'd a good deal about Hummus Abu Hassan, a very low keyed, but very busy little shop.

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The folks here were very nice and even though the place was bustling we ordered and found a table. 

Even though it was not even 10am, the place was busy. Our order arrived in minutes and just look at this will ya'….it is by far the most delici-yoso hummus I've ever had.

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IMG_3266 IMG_3269 The Masabacha was amazing. And one of the old timers even showed us the proper way to eat it. You take the wonderful pita and dip it in the peppery lemon sauce, then the hummus, then you eat it was some of the sinus clearing onion! It was sooooo good.

During our short "brunch" we saw two taxis stop in front of the restaurant and older women get out of the car, walk up to the counter and pick up their hummus! This place really lived up to what I had read. In fact, twice during our stay in Jerusalem we mentioned this place and kinda impressed the locals!

Hummus Abu Hassan
Ha-Dolfin St. 1
Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel

We finished up and walked back to our hotel.

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And wandered the streets along the way.

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We had a nice cup of tea back at the hotel…..

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And then it was nap time.

We awoke later that afternoon and went back out for a stroll…spending most of our time around the beach area, walking from one end to the other.

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The people (and pooch) watching was fun.

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This being near the end of November, the sun would set around 430pm, and we were treated to a beautiful one.

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After the sun went down we wandered around a bit more; then decided on some dinner. We just wanted something quick and easy and another place; fairly close to our hotel came to mind; Falafel Razon.

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I had wanted to try some falafel; so this was our chance….

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IMG_6304 IMG_3307  And whoa; much like the hummus, this was a game changer for us. I'd never had falafel that was so crisp outside, but almost creamy inside. 

Man we were eating well.

Falafel Razon
King George St. 17
Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel

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We really enjoyed Tel Aviv; it was laid back and the folks were nice. We had only one full day in the city, but it was fun.

Tomorrow would be a busy day; we'd headed to Masada, the Dead Sea, and then off to Jordan!

Mexico City (Before Covid) – The Two Day Taco Crawl and Other “Stuffs”

**** Just summing up our last trip before the pandemic to CDMX.

It was quite apparent that during our visits to CDMX we hadn't addressed one important "food group"…..tacos! And so, before our trip I set about trying to create a nice "taco crawl" of sorts…which ended up stretching into two days. So here's a brief summary.

We started off at the farthest stretches from where we were staying….to an interesting (at that time) concept called El Auténtico Pato Manila.

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The place was quite busy….though we were both amused and confused by the name and what was on the menu.

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On one hand you had the name…"Manila"…on the other hand; you had a statue of Chairman Mao…..

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And the place was known for their "pato" – duck tacos served in a flour tortilla, in place of the usual pancake….

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With hoisin sauce to say the least……not quite sure…..but this really didn't hit the spot. The proteins were dry….not sure what I expected; but it wasn't this.

El Auténtico Pato Manila
Culiacan 91
06100 Ciudad de México

Next we moved up a couple of blocks and got an outside table at Taquería El Califa. 

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Which seemed quite popular.

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This would end up being our favorite for the evening…great service and heck, they don't mess around when you order a side of avocado.

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The Al Pastor was crisp and flavorful and I ordered the bistek "campechano" which came topped with chicharrons……

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Our favorite place by far.

Taquería El Califa
Altata 22
06170 Ciudad de México

The next stop I picked because of it supposed "historical" significance….you see; El Tizoncito claims to have invented Tacos Al Pastor….it sure is quite busy to say the least.

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We sat next to an amazing young man (like 6 years old) and his dad…..the kid was game for anything and I admired him….for he was from the Midwest US but was just willing to try it all!

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The Al Pastor was disappointing though; tough and lacking in caramelization and quite bland overall.

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El Tizoncito IMG_0212
Tamaulipas 122
06140 Ciudad de México

Our last stop was one that I'd read much about, Taqueria el Greco…..which served what they call "Arab-style" tacos. It's quite popular as you can see in the photos, though we did fins a table inside the small restaurant.

The Missus went with a typical taco of grilled steak…i.e. carne asada; while I went with a "Doneraky" (spit roasted) style taco in Arabian Bread (sort of like a pita).

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IMG_5438 IMG_5440  The Missus's taco fared better than mine; which I thought was quite bland, overshadowed by the cheese and avocado.

Taqueria El Greco
Michoacán 54
06100 Ciudad de México

From here we headed back to our hotel and called it a night.

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The next morning we headed out to stretch our legs…coming across a "bike day" on Avenida Mazatlan.

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After taking care of a couple of things; we headed off to a taco shop a couple of blocks from where we were staying……Tacos Don Juan

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IMG_0228 IMG_0229  We had passed this place during one of our walks in the area and I wanted to check them out.

Both the Arrachera-Tocino and the Chuleta Ahumada were quite good. Very solid, delicious tacos.

A solid no frills neighborhood spot – we'll be back.

Tacos Don Juan
Calle Juan Escutia 35
06140 Ciudad de México

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From here we walked on over to Parque Mexico….it's always a fun walk and on this day they had a dog adoption program going on.

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After which we stopped at Volador Café for a caffeine fix.

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They sure love their pooches in CDMX.

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Volador Café
Amsterdam 135
06100 Ciudad de México

As I often have said; there's something about his area in CDMX that reminds me of Europe.

When dinner time arrived; I had yet another taco shop in mind….but first we returned to a place close by; Temporal, for a Suerte de Dragon (Lucky Dragon) and some Gulf Crab Sopes…..just so we'd have enough energy to make it to dinner…right?

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Restaurante Temporal
Saltillo 1
06140 Ciudad de México

It was a bit of a walk to to El Farolito, which I had seen the night before.

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The place seemed quite popular with the locals…..

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Maybe because the Al Pastor is roasting right in the dining area?

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We sat at the counter and had some cerveza and al pastor and buche tacos……which were quite good.,

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El Farolito
Altata 19
06100 Ciudad de México

Funny thing is…..El Califa is right across the street….hmmm….maybe next time….

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And then we had a nice stroll back to our room….we had an early flight the next day. We thought we'd be back to CDMX in no time at all and then the pandemic hit…..so, until we're back again!

Thanks for hanging in there for this rather onerous post!

Mexico City (Before Covid) – La Casa de Toño, Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela, Mercado de San Juan, Museo del Calzado, Pastelería Ideal, and Cafe Jekemir

Here's another (hopefully) quick post (abbreviated) on our last trip before Covid struck from back in February, 2020.

The Missus decided that She wanted to do some "exploring" the day after visiting visiting Teotihuacan, so of course I had to plan something out. Of course I wanted to start out with something to eat, IMG_0142 so we headed to La Casa de Toño…..because the Missus wanted some Pozole at the Zona Rosa location.

So, basically, I'll equate this to something like a Denny's….a chain that's very popular. The Missus wasn't enamored with the pozole….there are several choices in terms of meat available….She stayed safe with Maciza….while I went full "cabeza de cerdo" (pig's head) which turned out to be the better choice.

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IMG_5340 IMG_5341  This was pretty mild in terms of porkiness…at least it made the Missus appreciate the pozole I make.

La Casa de Toño (Many locations in CDMX)
Londres 144
06600 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico

From here we headed to our next stop…..

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The Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela.

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Which…my goodness, had a huge selection of items you never knew you needed….

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IMG_5348 IMG_0145  Man, there sprawling alleyways and shops……I ended up needing a break after a while.

Luckily we found a cafe….and a cafe de olla came to the rescue.

Lest you think this marketplace is for tourists, I've been told that many local come here to shop for various items though I never did ask what those items specifically were.

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We also took a walk thru Ciudadela Park across the street.

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And saw this group practicing ballroom style dancing.

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It was so sweet and charming. Notice the fellow dancing by himself? I'm wondering what the story might be behind that?

We enjoyed the green spaces in the city.

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The next stop was purely for me….the Mercado de San Juan.

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I always enjoy visiting these markets when I travel. There's always something interesting.

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The "Chinatown" street, Dolores (which I've posted on before) is just a about a block away, so we headed up the street.

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From here, I had an interesting place I wanted the Missus to see….the Museo del Calzado….yep, the footwear museum.

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Up a discreet stairway is an interesting collection of footwear…from the historic…to, well, the famous.

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IMG_0159  IMG_5393 It's a fun stop whether you have a "foot/shoe" fetish or not.

Museo del Calzado"The Borcegui"
Calle de Bolívar 27
Mexico City, 06000 Mexico

Right down the block was another interesting sight….an Ottoman Clock – the Reloj Otomano. IMG_5395

You can read more about it at Atlas Obscura.

CDMX is indeed an international city!

And full of surprises.

The next stop was a recommendation of an acquaintance who said it was his favorite "bakery in the world".

Pastelería Ideal is located a few blocks away and is easy to identify…..just look for the towering cakes in the window.

You can't  miss it! And the throngs of folks shopping for their favorite pastry. Everyone is in sugar heaven!

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I was instructed to head to the second floor…..

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IMG_0184 (2) IMG_0187  Where there was a "showroom" of sorts for cakes. I cracked up as each cake was labeled with how much it weighed? Just in case you wanted that 10 kilogram panda cake!

Pastelería Ideal
República de Uruguay 74
06000 Ciudad de México

Boy, after inhaling all that sugar. I needed something to wake me up! Luckily, I had a cafe on my "list" that was just a few blocks away named Cafe Jekemir.

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Which proved to be just what we needed.

Cafe Jekemir
Calle Regina 7
Mexico City 06000 Mexico

In spite of the caffeine I was bushed….so we called an Uber and headed back to Condesa for a short nap….which would come in handy since we'd end up walking quite a bit for the dinner I had planned.

Thanks for stopping by!

Paris (Before Covid) – Restaurant ERH and Golden Promise Whiskey Bar

Yet another quick pre-Covid travel post. 

We returned from our little day trip to Chartres and took a nap and rested a bit. For dinner, I chose a restaurant close to where we were staying. We'd be flying out to Tel Aviv the next morning and just wanted something close by. That didn't mean it would be just another dinner though. I had made reservations at Michelin starred ERH restaurant. The restaurant as basically two blocks from where we were staying.

Noting that ERH shares an address with a sake bar and a whiskey bar, we arrived early for our 730 reservation; and notified the restaurant that we'd be having a aperitif at the Whiskey Bar named Golden Promise.

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We each enjoyed a cocktail whilst waiting for our table.

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Soon enough our table was ready.

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The restaurant is very low-keyed and was were really interested in the tasting menu since the chef, like many of our previous fine dining meals in Paris was Japanese, Keita Kitamura. IN fact, ERH stands for eaux (water), riz (rice), and homme (man), as a homage to the three necessary ingredients for sake.

I'll try to keep this post brief from this point forward.

The amuse:

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Jerusalem artichoke with Ikura was amazing! The Parmesan Crisp was nice, the potato cream tasted like taro….

As was the monkfish fritter with sate and basil.

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The scallop was so very sweet.

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The veal tartare was also quite good.

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That radish and haricot vert cream just blew me away.

The Foie Gras dish was served in a novel manner.

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In a pastry of sorts, with mango and beets to add some interesting textural and flavor contrasts.

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The "Bar de Ligne" (Eropena Bass) with Oyster dish was a bit underwhelming.

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Really salty, the persillade (parsley) sauce not really adding much to the dish.

The Carnard de Chaland with Chou Vert, which seemed to be Brussel Sprouts rather than cabbage was quite nice.

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Great complexity, sweet – sour – bitter.

And the Missus enjoyed the desserts.

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A very nice experience; one which we'd gladly do again.

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ERH
Golden Promise Whisky Bar
11 Rue Tiquetonne
75002 Paris, France

As I had my usual beer before sleeping, I again thought about how lucky I was to be able to have these experiences.

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The next day we were up early and caught the RER to CDG………

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Next up…Tel Aviv!

Thanks for stopping by!

Chartres (Before Covid) – Chartres Cathedral and Lunch at La Table du Marche

Here's another quick pre-Covid travel post. 

On the second day of our short visit to Paris, the Missus wanted to explore a bit. We had visited Versailles on a previous trip, so this time around I thought we'd check out Chartres and the Cathedral, often said to be the best Gothic Cathedral in Europe.

Getting there was quite easy from Gare Montparnasse.

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And it seems that everyone is invited to take the one hour ride to Chartres.

And once there; well, it's easy to find your way to the Cathedral.

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You really can't miss it.

While walking to the Cathedral we passed this amazing mural.

IMG_3111 (2) IMG_3116 (2)  Doing some research, I found that the mural is of Jean Moulin a hero of the French Resistance in World War II who lived in Chartres. Read more about him in the link to the Wikipedia page above.

The Cathedral is indeed grand. It is said that there were four to five churches on this spot, dating back to the 4th century!

There is quite a bit to see if you have the time. We just decided to stroll around and enjoy some of the highlights.

There's a worn statue in Place de la Cathedrale. It is of Fulbert of Chartres who was Bishop of the Cathedral when it burned in 1020. Fulbert devoted his time to rebuilding the Cathedral which was completed around 1145.

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There are beautiful Rose Windows over every entrance.

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The Church is dedicated to Mary and there are signs of that everywhere.

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IMG_3140 (2) IMG_3163  Many pilgrims come to the church to see the Black Madonna (above). There's some really good information on why the Madonna is black here. But you might say, the Madonna pictured above isn't black. Well, several years back the Cathedral was part of a huge restoration project and all those years of soot and such was removed from the statue; it was very controversial to say the least.

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A few blocks from the Cathedral is the Marché aux Légumes – the produce market. And since it was Saturday, we took some time to check ot out.

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It's always fun visiting these places and watching the locals go about their daily lives…..

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By this point we were getting a bit hungry. Right at the edge of the market is La Table du Marché – the Market Table. So we thought why not?

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The staff was very friendly and welcoming. At places like this, it's always helpful to check out the plat du jour….and we ended up ordering two of the daily specials.

The friendly woman working was delighted that the Missus ordered the Andouillette, which She had loved in Lyon.

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While not quite at that level; it was literally bursting with offal-y goodness.

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I was thrilled to see Boudin Blanc as a daily special.

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And while, like the Missus, this wasn't quite as good a my favorite, it was quite mild, but nicely sautéed and I enjoyed the dressing on the greens.

The service was very warm; the prices, since we're used to Paris prices seemed like a bargain; 10 Euros for the Andouillette and just 7 for the Boudin Blanc!!!

La Table du Marché
11 Place Billard
28000 Chartres, France

We left satisfied and ready for a nap when we returned to Paris!

Paris (Before Covid) – Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Terroirs d’Avenir, Fou de Pâtisserie, and Dinner at Fleur de Pavé

*** Yet another condensed post of our trip in November, 2019    

As we strolled thru Passage du Grand Cerf, it really looked like the Missus still wanted to explore. And so, by the time we hit Rue Bachaumont, where this pooch was having a great time fetching the Frisbee, I decided to make another stop.

IMG_3055 (2)  IMG_3060 We pass the Church of Saint Eustache on a daily basis when we're in the area and had never visited, so I thought this might be a good time to check it out. There was also something I wanted to see.

The church took a century to build, from 1532 – 1632 and contains one of the largest organs in France; the nave is humongous!

The interior of the church is quite grand and I'd read about the stained glass and had one set specifically in mind.

The church is located right next to Les Halles, which was Paris's central market for almost 800 years. So, of course they would be benefactors of the church. In fact the professional pork butchers association, the "Corporation des Charcutiers" has their own chapel. When was the last time you saw sausages and a pig in stained glass?

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This sculpture by Raymond Mason commemorates the closing of Les Halles; it's titled "Le départ des fruits et légumes du coeur de Paris, le 28 février 1969" ("The departure of fruits and vegetables from the heart of Paris, February 28, 1969").

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There's beautiful stained glass and some beautiful art work at Saint-Eustache; we'll definitely visit again one day…..hopefully.

The Missus really enjoyed this stop and wanted to keep on going; so we ended up walking all the way to Sacré-Cœur!

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And enjoyed the view.

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We were getting a bit hungry on the walk down and decided to make a couple of stops.

On Rue du Nil, along with the very popular Frenchie empire, is a group of shops which includes a cheesemonger, a butcher, and of course a boulangerie called Terroirs d’Avenir. So we made a croissant stop at the bakery.

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We then headed back down to Rue Montorgueil and to a place I'd read about named Fou de Pâtisserie.

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This specialty shop is a conglomeration of curated pastries form some of Paris's most well known pastry chefs like Pierre Hermé.

The pastries looked beautiful and of course the Missus had a difficult time choosing just one.

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But She finally made a decision and we had some tea which we took to one of the two small tables outside.

While the croissant fell short; nice texture, but the butter-salt ratio wasn't quite to our taste…..

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L'Equinoxe. So, here's another place I'm sure we'll return to.

Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Terroirs d'Avenir
3 Rue du Nil
75002 Paris, France

Fou de Pâtisserie
45 Rue Montorgueil
75002 Paris, France

After this we took a well earned break (nap). For dinner I had selected a restaurant that had just opened during the summer of 2019 and had created a bit of a buzz; Fleur de Pavé. Folks sang praises of this restaurant; the chef Sylvain Sendra had garnered a Michelin Star at his former restaurant, Les Itinéraires which he closed in 2017. He and his wife spent the next, almost two years travelling the globe and exploring various cuisines. The result of which is Fleur de Pavé. The restaurant is also very vegetable friendly as it gets much of it's produce from Asafumi Yamashita a farmer who only sells his produce to certain selected chefs of his choosing.

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We were really looking forward to this meal. The restaurant was lovely, the staff very courteous, though service was quite slow. It actually took 30 minutes after we finished our meal and a "L'addition, s'il vous plaît" from me to get our check. Of course, the place is new; and as of 2020 they have received a Michelin Star, so I'm figuring they've straightened that out.

We decided to order form the menu and things started out with a trio of amuse:

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From top to bottom; a Parmesian Tart with Tzaziki and Carrot; Blakc Rice Crisp with Labneh and Eggplant Caviar; and the thinly sliced Cauliflower with Madagascar Vanilla and Salt….which looked lovely and had a wonderful texture, but was a bit too sweet for our taste.

Up next was the "Scottish Bread", which looked like Parker House rolls…….but was a nice fluffy brioche.

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We were excited to try the Salade du Jardin M Yamashita, which was topped with aged Parmesan. 

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The dressing could have used more acidity.

The Kabocha Carbonara with Mimolette sounded interesting.

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Like other dishes; this was on the sweeter end of things and there wasn't enough textural contrasts for us….the dish just seemed to be mushy.

Our favorite dish of the night – the Scallop Carpaccio with Oyster Sorbet and Sea Urchin – so many complex flavors.

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That worked together well.

Though the Roasted Monkfish with Pig Ear Tabbouleh and Red Wine Sauce was a bit much.

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The Missus did enjoy the dessert and the wine pairing though.

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Overall an interesting dinner; the place seems to be trying really hard and the presentations were wonderful……and I guess that paid off with a Michelin Star.

Fleur de Pavé
5 Rue Paul Lelong
75002 Paris, France

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