Roadtrip (During Covid-19) – Peidras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, Pacific Grove, and Dinner at Passionfish

We had really enjoyed our time in Cambria; from dinner at Madeline's to walking the wonderful trails at Fiscalini Ranch. But it was time to head to our next destination. I walked into Cambria and back to Cambria Coffee Roasting Company for our caffeine fix, we packed, then headed on out. Our next two evenings would be spent in Pacific Grove. The Missus had been to Monterey several times; I've always thought it too touristy for me and decided that perhaps we should stay just a short stroll away. Plus, there was a restaurant I'd always wanted to try out.

We stopped several times along the way, first at William Randolph Hearst Memorial State Beach.

IMG_7324

And took a walk along the wooden pier. 

IMG_1654

On this day, it was a peaceful and scenic spot…….the breeze from the Pacific lightly caressing your face…..a lovely November (2020) day.

IMG_1653

Just a few miles up the road was our next stop; the Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery.

IMG_7332

There was a lot of parking and a nice boardwalk where you can view the Elephant Seals. This was November, when according to this website, the large male Elephant Seals will start arriving.

No huge males on this day….just a bunch of adorable Elephant Seals relaxing and sun bathing.

IMG_8107
IMG_8107

And the occasional seal taking a dip to cool off.

IMG_7339

We both found this stop relaxing and entertaining.

IMG_7330

Maybe next time; once it's back open, we'll check out the lighthouse further on up the road. 

We drove up Highway one thru Big Sur (this was before the portion of Highway 1 collapsed). Only stopping once near Big Sur Station.

IMG_8119

We made good time to Pacific Grove and arrived before check-in. Which, in the time of Covid was done touch free……everything was done by key code; we never saw a single employee during our stay. I called the provided number and was told we could check in an hour earlier than scheduled. Still, there was a bit of time to kill. So, we found parking on the street near where we were staying and decided to do some exploring.

Pacific Grove is known as "Butterfly Town USA", so we decided to walk on over to the Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary down Lighthouse Avenue. 

First thing I noticed were how charming many of the homes were.

IMG_7353

In fact, this would lead us to a fun little walk later on during our stay.

Loved this sculpture at the Post Office on Lighthouse Avenue; it's called "Butterfly Kids".

IMG_7343

IMG_7344

It was a nice walk to the Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary.

IMG_7345
IMG_7345

Monarch Butterfly's usually start appearing in October to stay over the winter.

IMG_8126

And yet we saw none as we walked the trails…..

IMG_7346_02

IMG_7347_02

And so we decided to sit on one of the benches for a while. After a few minutes we saw two Monarch Butterflies….unfortunately, those would be the only two we would see. 

And while we were a bit disappointed to only see two; it has now turned to sadness upon reading this

IMG_7352 IMG_7351  Our accommodations were at the historic Pacific Grove Inn, a Queen Anne style mansion built between 1904 and 1908.

The Missus was a bit leery about staying in an old house like this, creaky floors and all; but I got us a huge room on the top floor, which was way more room than we needed. I mean, how often are you able to stay in such an historical house….with no one to bother you?

IMG_7350

I'm sure that in times not driven by the pandemic there might be some great amenities; but I truly liked being left alone to my own devices.

IMG_1664

Dinner was a place I'd been wanting to check out for years; a favorite of the late Ed from Yuma, Passionfish. In fact, Ed did a three part post on the place. Of course, with Covid-19 I wasn't sure what was in store. It was all outdoor dining in the area at this time and the restaurant had done a wonderful job setting up on the patio upstairs in front of what looked like a nail salon.

IMG_7355

Service was very efficient and professional, the restaurant had even created a satellite drink/wine station upstairs so customers could get served quickly. Ed had mentioned the amazing pricing of wine at Passionfish; bottles are sold at retail prices. Of course, we really weren't going to do entire bottles, so the Missus got Hers by the glass and thoroughly enjoyed things.

We started things off with some Buttermilk Biscuits.

IMG_7360

My goodness; these were some of the best I've ever had; perfect, moist, wonderful flavor, a great balance in texture……man this was good!

The Spicy Fish Stew was a bit of a disappointment. It was quite bland; really tasting like a watered down mariscos consomme that one could get from a Taco truck.

IMG_7362

Dungeness Crab Salad was excellent.

IMG_7365

The sweet-savory crab meat, along with the almost buttery avocado was a nice one-two punch. The vinaigrette added a perfect touch of aciditiy.

Sea Scallop was perfectly seared; still rare in the middle. We both loved  the caper-walnut topping.

IMG_7367

Though we found the artichoke risotto cake to be a bit too mild in terms of flavor.

Smoked Trout Ceviche Tostadas were a bit overwhlemed by the spicy salsa and the mild tones of the smoked trout were lost.

IMG_7368

Passionfish was a pioneer with regards to serving sustainable seafood and we were excited to try at least one fish dish. So we ordered the Rockfish, with a Jicama-Mint Salad, Rice Crisps, and Cashews. The fish was cooked perfectly; tender and moist. The spicy nuoc mam sauce might have been a bit too much for such a delicately flavored fish, but you couldn't complain about how well the fish had been prepped. Not a big fan of the grapefruit, but the Missus liked it. Loved the greens, a nice combination of bitter-savory-sweet and the cashews added another layer of savory-nutty tones.

IMG_7373 IMG_7375  All in all a very nice meal; a couple of dishes that missed the mark a bit; but wonderful service and the Missus and I talked about Ed….how he'd be viewing the pandemic, etc.

Passionfish
701 Lighthouse Ave.
Pacific Grove, CA 93950

On the way back we noticed something in the window of this art store.

IMG_7379

It was a cat!

IMG_1685

We loved it! From this point onward, we'd always stop and check out the "art store cats" to see what was up! They kept us entertained on our walks back to our accommodations.

IMG_7349

We were really enjoying Pacific Grove!

Thanks for stopping by!

Paris – Snack Shopping at Le Comptoir de Mathilde, À la Mère de Famille, and Jacques Genin. Cheese Tasting at Le Cheese Geek.

After our lunch at Maison de la Truffe the Missus had planned on picking up some "treats" for Her friends and coworkers. Of course, She had already purchased a few items from La Grande Epicerie, but wanted to stop at a few more places. I had done a bit of research the previous night; lookin at options fairly close to where we were staying. So, we headed back to the 3rd and onto Rue Rambuteau for our first stop – Le Comptoir de Mathilde.

IMG_1424

Part of a chain of shops and franchises across the country.

By this time; the Missus was focused on caramels and chocolates. 

IMG_7826

Quite chain like and commercial….but fun to stroll thru.

Le Comptoir de Mathilde
42 rue Rambuteau
75003 Paris France

Less than a block away we were now in the 4th, was another popular chain; this one based in Paris named À la Mère de Famille.

IMG_7800 IMG_7801  The woman working was so nice and friendly that we bought a couple of boxes of chocolates.

À la Mère de Famille
23 Rue Rambuteau
75004 Paris, France

The shop I saved for last was Jacques Genin also in the Marais. You can read more about the Chef and his shop on David Lebovitz's post. Anyway, just looking at the place tells you quite a bit.

IMG_7804
IMG_7804

I just hung back and let the Missus do Her thing.

She put together quite a lovely (and expensive – but of course you can tell that, right?) box for Herself.

Jacques Genin
133 Rue de Turenne
75003 Paris, France

After which we headed back to our accommodations.

For our last evening in Paris I wanted to do something fun. I had read about Le Cheese Geek on a wonderful post from Madame Fromage and ended up booking a cheese tasting.

Our tasting took place at Fromagerie Saisons which was pretty close to  where we were staying. Everything about our booking was easy. We ended up at the cheese shop a few minutes before our tasting and were quickly welcomed in. The tasting took place in the "cave" below the shop….but first; we had to pass all the tempting cheese for sale.

IMG_1470

Our guide thru this tasting was Fabrice; who was engaging and had a great sense of humor. Our group of ten was diverse; from "curd nerds" to their friend who just came along for the ride.

Typical question – "is it ok to eat the rind?"

Fabrice – "yes, of course…" and he went on to to explain.

My remark – "just don't do that with the babybel, ok….unless you like rubber…."

IMG_1454

We had a nice selection with a nice pairing.

IMG_1452

IMG_1456  IMG_1455 First up was a farmer's cheese made from raw goat's milk in ash named Le Roumé. This was so very light, with a mild acidity, with a nice clean finish.

It was a nice start.

This was paired with a very nice and clean Sauvignon.

IMG_1457

Next up was a wonderful Brebis.

IMG_1458  IMG_1460 This amazing Brebis d’Estive from the mountains of the Aspe Valley is from the farm of Maxime Bajas whose entire herd consists of 100 sheep! It was so wonderfully savory and nutty to my palate, with a mildly rich finish.

This was served with Candied Piment d’Espelette and was served with a nice Gamay.

IMG_1463   

This was an amazing duo of Comté, a Comté Jeune aged 8 months and a Vieux Comté aged from 36 – 42 months. Both from Montmorot. This was nice example of a difference in taste and texture of aged chesses.

IMG_1465  IMG_1461 Next up was my favorite duo of a wonderful Camembert de Normandie, so deeply savory and earthy, made from a maker whose entire herd consists of 80 cows; paired appropriately with a nice apple cider. And the Munster, very ripe and "footy" from Alsace.

IMG_1464  IMG_1468 The last cheese was a wonderful Roquefort, made by a small producer Maison Carles which works with mold from the local rye bread. This was served with a Tawny Port….something I hadn't tried before this tasting, but has now become part of my routine with Roquefort.

Our tasting with Fabrice and  Le Cheese Geek was delicious, educational, and most of all a lit of fun. Since our visit, Le Cheese Geek now has a permanent location in the 10th Arrondissement. As with most of these type of events, things are currently paused due to Covid; but by all means give them a try once we're over this pandemic.

Le Cheese Geek
31 Rue Sainte-Marthe
75010 Paris, France

IMG_1471  IMG_1475 This being the end of May (2019), it was still quite bright outside as we walked back to our accommodations. And though we had initially thought that perhaps we'd grab a small bite to eat on the way back, we were pretty full.

As is kind of my tradition on my last night in a locale, I purchased a beer on the way back to the apartment.

Where we just packed up, caught on emails and messages, then relaxed.

I'm always so thankful that we're able to travel and have these wonderful meals and experiences. And even more thankful to be able to share them with you. IMG_1472

Yes, we may still be stuck at home right now; but one day, hopefully soon, we'll be able to travel again. And we'll make the best of it.

Thanks for stopping by!

Paris – Boulangerie Régis Colin and Maison de la Truffe (Since closed) in La Grande Epicerie de Paris

We slept well after our wonderful dinner at Pertinence. Though the Missus got me up at 630am……because, well, She needed you know what. Yes, this was the Paris moment I mentioned in my Gala Chicken/Zion Market post. Sigh…….well, I needed to head on out. I showered and got dressed, then headed out to find a Pharmacy.

IMG_1418

Things were pretty quiet on Rue Montorgueil at 7 in the morning. Mostly just delivery trucks and such. I headed down, then back up the avenue checking out the Pharmacies; all of them closed. I later learned that most Pharmacies in Paris open between 800 – 900 in the morning. I passed Pharmacy after Pharmacy, all closed. Man, I was having a longer hitless streak than Chris Davis! Finally, in the Marais, I came across an open Pharmacy and walked in. I headed to the Fem Hygiene aisle…..and was kinda stumped; so I started taking photos and sending them via text message to the Missus. Soon enough, I heard a loud clearing of the throat behind me…..yes, I was busted by the Pharmacist…..a fairly serious looking woman…..with one eyebrow raised, checking out the Asian guy with a maxi-pad obsession. 

"Monsieur, what are you doing???"

"Ummmm, I need to buy pads for my wife."

"Hmmmm…..but why the photos Monsieur?" Yeah, like she really believed me.

Right then the Missus replied to my text instructing me on what to purchase. Relieved, I showed the woman the text, grabbed the package and we walked over to the register to pay. After ringing me up, she looked at me, warmly smiled, and said:

"Monsieur, you are a good man!" And handed me my package. Ah yes, more souvenirs from Paris.

On the way back to the apartment I decided to reward myself and grab a croissant. I'd seen a place on Rue Montmartre, which runs parallel to Rue Montorgueil that I wanted to try. By this time of the morning; folks were starting to get out and about.

IMG_7822

The Boulangerie I was interested in was Régis Colin as I had seen the le Prix du Croissant sign near the doorway earlier.

**** Boulangerie Régis Colin has closed

IMG_1420

So, I went in and got a croissant aux beurre. The system was interesting, you tell the nice saleswoman what you want; she bags it and enters it into the register; you then pay via a machine….so the staff never touches currency…..a hygiene thing I guess.

The croissant was delicious; nice balance of butter to salt; flakey, light and airy, moist……..a definite winner!

IMG_1422

Boulangerie Régis Colin IMG_1423
53 Rue Montmartre
75002 Paris, France
Hours:
Monday – Friday 630am – 8pm

After finishing up the croissant we headed out, but not very far for our morning "pick-up" at Café Montorgueil and people watched for a bit.

IMG_7824

After getting our caffeine fix, we headed off……with not much in mind.

I had wanted to check out La Grande Epicerie de Paris, a fairly high-end ("haute") food/grocery store so we headed off to the 6th and 7th. I've stated that there always seems to be something interesting to see; no matter how many times you've been down a street. This time around, I noticed this impressive building on Rue du Renard.

IMG_1425

Apparently, this is the Syndicat De L'épicerie Française, originally built in 1901, which used to (I believe they still have an office in the building) the grocer's union.

And off course a little more than a block away is the Hotel de Ville – that would be City Hall to us American folks.

IMG_1429

Crossing over to Île de la Cité.

IMG_1431

It was a beautiful day in Paris. Of course, we took another look at Notre Dame (this visit was at the end of May 2019). The tragic fire had just occurred about 6 weeks earlier.

IMG_1433
IMG_1433

It was such a sad sight to see…….

Crossing over the Seine to the Left Bank, down Rue Saint-Jacques, then taking a right turn on Boulevard Saint-Germain we came across a street market which kept us occupied for a bit.

IMG_1439

From here we strolled down the street, then turned on Rue de Sèvres…..

IMG_1441

Stopped for a short; ahem, break at the Hermes store…..luckily, the Missus didn't find anything She was interested in and my credit card lived to see another day. Finally, across the street from Le Bon Marche we got to the La Grande Epicerie de Paris. I probably should have taken more photos in the huge store; but was just plain distracted.

IMG_1443

After all this walking….well, I was feeling a bit hungry. And just at that moment I saw Maison de la Truffe…….I looked at the menu…foie gras and truffle? Croque-Monsieur with truffle……smoked salmon with truffle? Are you kidding me? We decided to grab a "light" lunch here. 

Sadly, as I was getting some general info on Maison de la Truffe, I read that the place has closed…….so I'm just going to mainly post photos.

IMG_1445

I will note that the young man waiting on us was a joy and the food was surprisingly good…..of course with things like truffle oil, truffle chips, and truffle salt…..

IMG_1447

And the Croque-Monsieur with Truffled White Ham and Gouda…..and a few nice, fragrant shaved truffles for the heck of it.

IMG_1448
IMG_1448  IMG_1444 It's too bad this shop closed as we really enjoyed our shared meal. There are other locations around Paris and I hope to be able to check them out one day. On our second trip to Paris in 2019 we'd visit another similar shop in BHV Department Store which wasn't nearly as good as this one.

Oh well……..I'm glad I got to try them out.

And also buy some fairly pricy food gifts for friends.

La Grande Epicerie de Paris
38 Rue de Sèvres
75007 Paris, France

Paris – Boulangerie Collet, Dinner at Pertinence, and the View She Never Tires Of

It had been a fun day so far and after taking a short break at the apartment; the Missus wanted to head on out again. So, off we went to the Marais, and resumed our "lèche-vitrine". We eventually came across a wonderful green space; Paris is full of these little parks. This one had a lovely garden, benches (of course), and wonderful waterfalls. I came to find out that this was Square du Temple.

IMG_1377

It was a lovely little oasis.

IMG_1379

On the way back to the apartment, the Missus said She was feeling a bit "peckish" and I mentioned checking out another Boulangerie right around the corner from the apartment, Maison Collet.

IMG_1383 IMG_1385And we got ourselves a croissant aux beurre to share. This was a bit overdone, hard, dry, and lacking in the amount of butter I enjoy.

Well, it was good to try. Another one for the books.

Boulangerie Collet
100 Rue Montorgueil
75002 Paris, France

We managed to get in a short nap, then got ready for dinner. We had reservations at a restaurant in the 7th Arrondissement, Pertinence, which held a Michelin star. As has been our habit in recent years, this one was helmed by a Japanese Chef, Ryunosuke Naito from Japan and Kwen Liew from Malaysia. The little restaurant serves only 14 covers a night!

The sun was still shining rather brightly as we finished our walk to the restaurant. It was the end of May (2019) and the sun doesn't set until past 930pm during this time of the year.

IMG_1389

It's a clean, spartan dining room and the only folks working were the two chefs!

IMG_1390_C

There is what looks like some kind of sleek manhole cover in the middle of the dining area, which turned out to be a hatch to the cave below. During our meal, the Chef had to run down to grab a bottle, the fellow eating at the other table went "ooooh" and looked at me humming the tune of Mission Impossible. I answered with "Monsieur James Bond"! And he cracked up….who said the French don't have a sense of humor?

Speaking of wine; we took the 6 course tasting menu (105/€). The Missus got the wine pairing, which cost a supplement of 70/€ and was enough for the both of us to share…..as for me; I got the caviar supplement at 30/€ which was worth every last bit of money.

IMG_1391

IMG_1392

After the wonderful and warm bread bites, the amuse was brought out; a Green Pea Foam, light as a feather, with a slight sweetness and tart from the kiwi jelly.

IMG_1395

And then the first dish……the Langostein which came with a Konbu Sauce and a Miso Sauce. Check out that caviar; which really complemented the plump, sweet-briney langostein.

IMG_1397

I preferred the konbu sauce with this as it heightened the nice seafood flavor. Also loved that nothing was over-seasoned.

The Missus loved this bottle of wine the best.

IMG_7811

Man, look at the size of that Foie Gras…….

IMG_1399

And yet, it was the thin slices of pickled daikon that really impressed me. It also was a nice foil to the rich-livery foie gras. Not a big fan of the Amaretto sauce though.

When the Red Mullet came out; I really didn't know what to think as it looked like a solid piece of fish; but it was amazing and my favorite dish of the meal.

IMG_1401

The skin was light, yet very crisp, it was a treat indeed. The flesh was perfectly moist and mild in flavor….cue in the caviar. The grilled lettuce had a nice sweetness to it; but it was the celery micro greens that were really amazing, packing quite a punch of flavor!

Next up, the pork neck, which was done medium rare – yes medium rare…..I trust places like Pertinence. And this was very tender, considering it was pork neck, and had a touch of anise lingering on the tongue.

IMG_7816

Man, I was pretty full after this……I usually leave dessert totally up to the Missus; but this time it was Roquefort with Umeboshi Caramel Camambert. How could I resist???

IMG_1403

IMG_1405 IMG_1407 This was a fine and enjoyable meal. Service was excellent and relaxed, the dishes well paced, quite impressive with the restaurant staffed with only the two chefs. It was well worth the price!

Pertinence
29 Rue de l'Exposition
75007 Paris, France

Since we like to eat rather early; our timing was perfect as we left the restaurant and headed up to Rue Saint-Dominique and then up Avenue de la Bourdonnais crossing the Seine on Pont d'Iéna to see the sight the Missus never tires of.

IMG_1410_C

And then we headed back to the apartment……

IMG_1416

And then off to sleep. Where I'm sure the Missus was dreaming of the "City of Lights".

IMG_1412

Thanks for stopping by!

Paris – Jefrey’s Cocktail Bar, Stohrer, Sainte-Chapelle, and Café Montorgueil

**** Sorry, not much food in this one, but if you like amazing stained glass…..

Our train from Stuttgart arrived right on time to Paris 'Est. We then caught the metro to Les Halles to the apartment where we'd be staying. On our last visit to the Missus's favorite city, we found that we really enjoyed staying on the Right Bank and I found an apartment close to a street we loved on a prevous visit. After getting the keys to our flat and freshening up for a minutes….well, you know the Missus, She wanted to get out and about. I had a route in mind and we headed East on Rue Grenata and then took a quick turn on the corner. The Missus was wondering why I seemed to be going around in a circle when we came to my first destination….to which I replied to Her "voila!"

IMG_1258 IMG_1257This is Passage du Grand-Cerf, a shopping arcade if you will. Created in the 19th century, these glass ceiling shopping arcades once numbered over a 150….but most are now gone. There are a few left; the most well known….at least to me is Galerie Vivienne. There is such charm in places like this….it transports you to a different time. The window shopping….or as the French call it "lèche-vitrine" which literally means "window licking" is fun. I'm guessing those folks with their faces right up to the windows….steaming it up with their breath do look like they are licking it. We've all seen (or done) that, right?

From here we headed down to the Seine, taking Rue Sainte-Denis until we came upon this square right in back of Les Halles.

IMG_1263

The rather lovely looking square has quite a grisly history. It is now called Les Fontaine des Innocents and was once the site of a cemetery. I had read that the cemetery had become so full that the bodies were pushed into the cellars of nearby residents. Eventually orders came down from Louis XVI to move cemeteries out of the city for sanitary reasons.

And so the residents of Holy Innocents' Cemetery were moved. But it doesn't quite end there. Apparently, all the intact skeletons were moved to what is now the tourist draw, the Catacombs of Paris.

And it's not only large squares and fountains. Right on the corner of Rue de la Reynie and Rue Saint-Denis I saw this.

IMG_1265

Which for some reason grabbed my attention. After doing a bit of searching…luckily the inscription on the monument is readable; I came to find out that this is a monument to Eugene Scribe a IMG_1305 popular Playwright and Author.

That's the Tour Saint-Jacques ('Saint James's Tower'), which is all that remains from a church, Church of Saint-Jacques-de-la-Boucherie ('Saint James of the Butchers') which was sponsored by the butchers at the nearby Les Halles. The church itself was destroyed at the end of the French Revolution. But by contract the tower was saved. There's something around every corner in Paris it seems.

Our last trip to Paris had been in November of 2018 (this was the end of May 2019) before the horrible fire at Notre Dame in April of 2019. We were horrified watching it on the television. We took a walk past….the fire had just occurred the month before and we were wondering what we'd see.

IMG_1269

We were happy to see that Notre Dame was still standing; but saddened at the damage.

We crossed over to the Left Bank on he Petit Pont and strolled around for a bit…this is the lovely Square René-Viviani.

IMG_1270

Then passing the super crowded (with tourists) Shakespeare and Co.

IMG_1273

And then decided to go turn around and head back…..and grab a café allongé on one of the cafe's near to where we'd be staying.

IMG_1278
IMG_1278

And so, we ended up at Café du Centre on Rue Montorgueil a half block from where we were staying.

IMG_1280

There's something about this mostly pedestrian market street that we enjoyed.

It was lively. And yes, there are tourists. But there seemed to be the hustle and bustle of everyday like as well.

IMG_1282
IMG_1282

I'm wondering how much Covid-19 has affected the café culture in Paris. There's something wonderful about sitting outside with our café allonge….you can spent 10 minutes or 3 hours with your coffee if desired….you can read a book, a paper, socialize, or just be like us and watch the world go by. It just seemed so therapeutic.

Losing this would be tragic.

Café du Centre
57 Rue Montorgueil
75002 Paris, France

After spending a good amount of time just chilling, we headed back to the apartment.

The evening we had reservations at a place I posted on earlier. Before dinner, I wanted to grab a cocktail from a nearby Cocktail Bar I had read about named Jefrey's. It was just one street down from where we were staying.

**** Jefrey's has closed

IMG_1296

It's a cozy little place with both upstairs and downstairs seating. We had two of the four seats at the bar. We loved the service here; the folks working were so friendly.

While working through a round of the standards….you know, an Old Fashioned for me, etc. We chatted with the bartender who was so knowledgeable and friendly.

IMG_1298

After mentioning that I enjoy smoky flavor profiles he recommended that I try the "Smokey Monkey" made by, well, Monkey Shoulder. It was really wonderful. Sorry to say, I was told that while Monkey Shoulder is available in the U.S.; Smokey Monkey is not.

IMG_7836 IMG_7837We were happy to have found a place to grab a cocktail in the neighborhood and would revisit on later trips.

Jefrey's
14 Rue Saint Sauveur
75002 Paris France

Sadly our dinner at Le Pont de Sichuan didn't live up to the first visit. But that was ok……

The next morning I got up and did a couple of things online; then it was time to grab a croissant.

IMG_1300

I decided to head to the oldest Patisserie in Paris, Stohrer which has quite a history, dating back to 1730 and just happens to be on Rue Montorgueil.

IMG_1382

Another claim to fame that Stohrer brought the Rhum Baba to France. It is claimed that the modern version of this cake was in this spot sometime around 1835.

IMG_1301

I stood in line and ordered a croissant au beurre, which looked lovely, nicely lacquered, crackly, but on the dry side and not quite to our taste in terms of the butter flavor.

IMG_1303

It was not bad….perhaps I should have gotten a rhum baba as well, but it seemed to early in the day.

Stohrer
51 Rue Montorgueil
75002 Paris, France

After having the croissant, we headed out. I had purchased advance tickets for Sainte-Chapelle and the Conciergerie. We got to the location right before opening and were quickly allowed entrance.

The very gothic exterior of Sainte-Chapelle is somewhat obscured by the surrounding buildings. And you really don't get the full scope of the chapel.

IMG_1310

IMG_1346

And then you enter and are simply awestruck at the beautiful stained glass.

There are over 1,000 biblical scenes depicted in the stained glass of the upper chapel in the photo below!

IMG_1328

And the lower chapel!

IMG_1324
IMG_1324

Originally built over the period of ten (!) years – 1238-1248 as a Royal Chapel by Louis IX to house relics including the supposed Crown of Thorns. 

The chapel was damaged during the French Revolution, but restored in he 19th century.

IMG_1311
IMG_1311

Amazing!

Sainte Chapel resides in a large complex of structures originally called Palais de la Cité, now called the Palais de Justice.

IMG_1348

Right next to the Palais de Justice is a place with a grim and dark past; once a palace, the Conciergerie became a place of detention after the French Revolution. It is where the Revolutionary Tribunal tried "enemies of the Revolution". During a two year period (a year of which is called "The Reign of Terror") almost 2800 people were executed by guillotine.

Entering the barren and haunting halls is quite an experience if you know just a bit of French history.

IMG_1350

And even in the most somewhat innocuous places, the reality strikes you. The lovely courtyard looks so peaceful…..

IMG_1369

Until you look up and notice the scary looking spikes; still in place, to keep prisoners confined.

IMG_1371

There's a memorial room in La Conciergerie that lists out the 2,780 names of those condemned to death, with some very familiar names.

IMG_1361

Whew….we needed a break.

So, we headed back to the apartment and decided to stop for another caffeine break. This time at the place next door to Café du Centre, Café Montorgueil. We actually found that we enjoyed this café quite a bit….it had more of a relaxed local vibe and was actually cheaper than the place next door, go figure?

IMG_1374

We enjoyed our Café Allonge; while watching time and people slowly pass……

IMG_1376

Café Montorgueil
55 Rue Montorgueil
75002 Paris, France

Before we knew it, an hour had gone by. We decided to head back to the apartment for a short break……

IMG_1375

Before heading back out to do more exploring, shopping, and then of course; dinner!

For those that took the time to read this rather long and rambling post, I thank you! And I'd especially like to thank both Kerri and LaurieH who both mentioned missing our travel posts….thanks so much for the kind words!

Cambria (During Covid-19) – Fiscalini Ranch, Cambria Coffee, Shamel Community Park, and Dinner at Black Cat Bistro

During our roadtrip last November, our second stop was in Cambria. We had really enjoyed our dinner at Madeline's the night before. From the food, wine, and wonderful service….it was such a nice experience. We were looking forward to our full day in the town. Man, it really felt good to be travelling for a bit. We had really missed it.

I had gotten up early in the morning. The office had an urgent request so I was on my laptop and the phone for a bit. After my call, the Missus wanted a cup o' Joe. So I got dressed and headed out.

I crossed Highway 1 onto Main Street, which was quite sleepy at this time of the morning.

IMG_7249
IMG_7249

I really enjoyed the quaint, artsy, but unpretentious vibe of Cambria…..and a definite sense of humor!

IMG_1648

A few blocks down was my destination; Cambria Coffee Roasting Company.

IMG_7253

IMG_7320

While I understand that there's a deck seating area upstairs with a view of the street; at this time, due to Covid restrictions it's closed. Basically, a table was set-up in the doorway and you could place your order.

IMG_7252

And then you stand aside until you are called. I was happy to note that Cambria Coffee does pour-over…..which would make the coffee snob in the family (the Missus) happy. So, I got a coffee and a pour over for the Missus.

It was nice to see locals seeing each other….during these times, with the social distancing and such, I'm sure it's a treat for those on fours legs as well for those on two.

IMG_7321

I went and walked on back to our room. The Missus enjoyed Her coffee. While not quite on the same level as Birdrock, She did enjoy it.

Cambria Coffee Roasting Company
761 Main St.
Cambria, CA 93428

Bolstered by caffeine, the Missus was ready to head out. I had done a bit of research and planning for this trip to keep the Missus busy. One thing that caught my attention was Fiscalini Ranch Preserve. Previously owned by the Fiscalini family since the late 1800's as a cattle ranch, it was sold in the 1980's to a developer. The plan was to create a residential area, much like what surrounds the ranch. Fortunately (for us), the developer went bankrupt and the North Coast Small Wilderness Area Preservation was formed and raised 11 million dollars to purchase the property. The preserve consists of over 400 acres of trails which straddle both sides of Highway 1. You go from one of the last Monterey Pine Forests to the beautiful coast.

There are at least 17 trails available all of which are well maintained and makes for rather easy hiking. I decided that we should start at Huntington Road entrance, basically just an gate with street parking and walk along the Ridge Trail.

IMG_7258

Where we quickly came upon an interesting bench.

IMG_8057

This one is known as the, well, Dolphin Bench of course. We'd come to really enjoy the wonderful and quite artistic benches crafted with driftwood along the way.

We hiked along the Ridge Trail coming upon the pine forest.

IMG_7261

IMG_7266

IMG_7270

And then meandered down to the Bluff Trail, which was scenic and beautiful.

IMG_7272
IMG_7272

And course there are those benches that I mentioned earlier….they really looked like works of art to us.

IMG_8048
IMG_8048

We took our time, sitting on the benches and enjoyed the views along the way.

IMG_8030

IMG_1647

These were the Missus's favorite benches.

IMG_8041

IMG_8041

Once we reached the North Windsor Boulevard Entrance, we headed back up the SeaClift Trail and eventually back from where we started.

IMG_7278

IMG_7287

Fiscalini Ranch Preserve was a fun, relaxing, and needless to say beautiful way to spend our day in Cambria.

IMG_7286

IMG_7285

It was time well spent.

After our hike, we headed into Cambria's East Village to do some shopping.

IMG_7289

Which was a lot of fun……

IMG_7292 (2)

We headed back to our very comfortable room at the El Colibri for, at least for me was a well earned afternoon nap.

I had made dinner reservations for this dinner at a restaurant in the East Village. I asked the Missus to get ready a bit early….She was a bit perturbed, but went along. We got into the car and instead of heading across Highway 1 I took a right turn down Windsor Boulevard and right at the turn down the hill stopped and parked at Shamel Community Park.

IMG_7293

As we walked from the parking lot to the beach, the Missus got it…..

IMG_7296

And boy was it beautiful!

IMG_8070

IMG_7302

Doesn't get much better than this, does it?

IMG_7304

After the stunning sunset, we headed to our dinner destination, finding parking on the street. And enjoying the wonderful fun and artsy décor along the way.

IMG_7306

Dinner was at Black Cat Bistro. The menu looked interesting…. We were seated in a covered porch area. During this time SLO County was under the Red tier and had 25% indoor, we requested outdoor. There were only two other couples during our whole meal….all from out of town and the other two parties had such cute and well behaved pooches with them.

IMG_7310

IMG_7309

The meal started in fine fashion with a delicious Crab Cake and Shrimp Salad ($17).

IMG_7312

The shrimp was fried perfectly, the batter was light and crunchy, the shrimp sweet, plump, and oh so tender. The crab cakes was well made, full of crab meat, moist, the breading stood up well in the face of the remoulade sauce. The arugula added a nice balance as the mild bitterness helped to cut the richness. This was easily the best dish of the night, a memorable dish.

Next up was the "Paso Robles Pork Belly" ($15).

IMG_7314

Love the addition of Gigante Beans; the pork belly was fine, the sauce was too salty and sweet for our taste.

Next up; the Gnocchi ($14). The gnocchi is fried giving it an interesting texture…..but beyond the light crispness, the interior was too mushy.

IMG_7315

We did enjoy the earthiness of the mushrooms paired with the pleasant bitterness of the radicchio. This added a nice dimension to the plate, though that cream sauce just wasn't to our taste.

The last dish of the evening was the main reason I decided to book our dinner at Black Cat Bistro; the Strozzapreti ($25). The Missus loves strozzapreti and strigoli, the wonderful toothsomeness of the pasta. This was a vegetarian version which the Missus was more than happy to order.

IMG_7319

There was just too much going on in this dish and the pasta was over cooked and on the mushy side, lacking in that nice chewiness the Missus enjoys. We enjoyed the purple cauliflower and Romanesco….the Missus just loves Her cauliflower. The currants seemed a bit too much for the dish as was the cream sauce. We would have preferred a bit more restraint in the saucing of the dish….but hey…..this is the US, not Italy. Sometimes, simple is best.

Overall a nice meal; friendly staff, the other two parties were from out of town and come to Cambria yearly. The Black Cat Bistro is a favorite of theirs. The Missus enjoyed the wine pairings as well.

Black Cat Bistro
1602 Main St.
Cambria, CA 93428

As you can see; we didn't go to bed hungry!  We really enjoyed Cambria and will be sure to return.

Clearing Out the Memory Card – Teotihuacan, Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe, and a Revisit to Pasillo de Humo (CDMX)

Well, the Missus keeps insisting that we had only one trip this year; our recent roadtrip. I reminded Her that we did two trips early in the year, San Francisco and Mexico City. I went ahead and started showing Her our photos. Honestly, I don't blame Her for thinking those trips didn't happen this year….January and February just seem so long ago now.

Anyway, while I was looking at some of my photos; I thought I'd better get me act together and start doing posts. I'm going to try to limit my verbiage from this point on and let you enjoy the photos, though I think I'm not going to be very successful.

Before our trip to CDMX, I contacted a Driver named Aaron Cruz that came highly recommended by a couple of the Missus's coworkers and heck is even the subject of this thread in TripAdvisor. Anyway, contacting and arranging was easy. And on the day of pick-up, I went out and quickly picked up some croissants from our favorite bakery down the street.

Aaron was on time and got us to Teotihuacan in no time at all. Both the Missus and I had read about this amazing UNESCO World Heritage Site and were excited about our visit. Needless to say; it delivered.

IMG_5200

IMG_5212
IMG_5212

IMG_7349 IMG_7353Entering from the Southwest entrance, the first thing you come upon is La Cuidadela (the Citadel), which is theorized to be the main square of the city.  Within the walls is the Templo de Quetzalcoatl ("Temple of the Feathered Serpent") which is said to be the last of the three pyramid built at Teotihuacan. There are six levels of the pyramid each of which is decorated with the sculptured heads of Fire and Feathered Serpents. Discoveries are still being made to this day around and under the temple.

IMG_5222

The main street that lead past the Pyramid of the Sun and ends at the Pyramid of the Moon is called Calzada de los Muertos ("Avenue of the Dead") currently runs for about 2 kilometers and is thought to have been even longer during the height of Teotihuacan's existence.

There are what appears to be former dwellings and structures along the west side of the avenue and there's quite a bit to see here as well.

IMG_5226 (2)
IMG_5226 (2)
IMG_5226 (2)

IMG_5237_03

Right across the way is the very impressive Pirámide del Sol ("Pyramid of the Sun") which stands at 216 feet (65 1/2 meters) tall.

IMG_0099

It's a fairly steep climb to the top, but totally worth it.

IMG_5242

The views from the top are amazing.

IMG_5244

IMG_5245_02

We celebrated making it to the top by having our croissants…

IMG_5247

While enjoying a wonderful view of Pirámide de la Luna ("Pyramid of the Moon").

IMG_5249

You notice the photos of dogs above……they all seemed well behaved and really mellow. The most impressive dog was the one that was sleeping at the top of the Pyramid of the Sun! Man, to think this pooch climbed up all those steep stairs!

IMG_7366

We headed back down and made our way to the Pyramid of the Moon. It's not just all huge structures at Teotihuacan. There are some interesting murals; like this one of a Puma.

IMG_5259

And then we made it to the end of Avenue of the Dead.

IMG_0113

And soon enough the Missus had me climbing up the Pyramid of the Moon; which for some reason seemed even steeper than the Pyramid of the Sun!

IMG_0115

IMG_5261

And the views from here were no less outstanding. The area in front of the pyramid is known as the "Plaza of the Moon" and the part of it with the central altar is known as the "Teotihuacan Cross".

IMG_5262_02

After carefully working my way down the pyramid; we headed toward the Northwest Entrance where we'd be meeting Aaron and took some time to visit the Palace of Quetzalpapálotl to take in the wonderful carvings and bas-reliefs.

IMG_5263
IMG_5263
IMG_5263

And soon enough; it was time to be on our way.

IMG_0119

Aaron mentioned that we still had some time and recommended visiting the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe. So naturally, we said "of course".

IMG_5276

We parked on a side street; under the altar and headed up Calz de Guadalupe. There are actually two Basilica's here. The "Old" Basilica.

IMG_0122

Which was finished in 1709. Because of unstable ground the church started sinking and; if look at it from an angle it is actually leaning.

IMG_5303

Because of this; a "New" Basilica was completed in 1976, which looks very modern.

IMG_5304

The Old Basilica was closed and went under repairs for many years and had just recently been reopened; so we got to check it out.

IMG_5280
IMG_5280
IMG_5280

The entire complex called Villa de Guadalupe is composed of several churches, chapels and is where Juan Diego saw the apparition of the Virgin of Guadalupe (the Virgin Mary) on December 12th, 1531.

IMG_5290

At the top of the hill is Capilla del Cerrito.

IMG_5291

Along with other structures like "Las Velas del Marino", which from what I was told is an offering of gratitude for being saved from at shipwreck in the 18th century. It was rebuilt in the 20th Century.

IMG_5293

There is much to see here; like La Ofrenda by Aurelio G.D. Mendoza.

IMG_5295 IMG_5298And while exploring the various temples and churches, whether it's on an fault line and slowly separating from it's foundation; yet still standing upright due to "the will". Quite interesting to say the least.

Or perhaps the oldest church on this site, dating back to 1649…the Antigua Parroquia de Indios, it's all quite amazing to see. Faith plays out everyday here.

And then to end things off, we visited the "New Basilica" to end our visit here.

IMG_5296
IMG_5296

IMG_5306

IMG_5309

IMG_5302

This was quite an amazing day and frankly we were bushed. Luckily, I had reservations at a place right down the street that we enjoyed on our previous visit, Pasillo de Humo. I'm not going into detail here, you can read my previous post. I will say, service was great and, at least for us, doing the appetizer thing might be the best way to go here.

IMG_5315
IMG_5315
IMG_5315

IMG_5319
IMG_5319

IMG_5322

And when picking from the Mezcal "trolley", my favorite is the "Ojo de Tigre"…..

IMG_5324 (2)

IMG_5325

IMG_5330

IMG_5328_02

This was just as good as the last time we visited.

Pasillo de Humo
Av Nuevo León 107
06100 Cuauhtémoc, CDMX, Mexico

Stuttgart – Weingut Franz Keller, Breakfast, and You Know Where We’re Headed Next, Right?

After dinner at Alte Kanzlei we headed back to the hotel. We took the "scenic" route, passing thru Schlossplatz once again. It was nice to see folks out and about…..everyone socializing (before Covid-19 of course), no one glued to their smartphone.

IMG_7760

The "Golden Hour" was fast approaching and the square took on a different look in the light of fading afternoon

IMG_1236

We decided to sit at one of the benches for a few minutes to just watch folks coming, going, and some were having a drink too!

IMG_1238

We walked on over to the Neues Schloss and it looked quite stunning at this time of the day.

IMG_7766

After which we headed back down Königstrasse……

IMG_1241
IMG_1241

And took a quick look at the Hauptbahnhof; the train station which was basically right across the street from our hotel.

IMG_1243

As we were about to head into the hotel, the Missus and I spotted the external entry to the hotel restaurant…….there was a wine bar named Weingut Franz Keller next to the restaurant.

IMG_1245

IMG_1244 IMG_7769During our trip the previous winter, the Missus developed a fondness for the wines of Alsace and She was curious if She's enjoy German Rieslings and Muskats as well.

The prices were nice for half-pours, the wines aren't a sweet as American Rieslings, it was a nice digestif stop for us, as we had two glasses each.

The young man who Served us was so sweet, very kind, friendly…..a really nice guy and made the whole experience fun.

Weingut Franz Keller
Schillerstrasse 23
Stuttgart, Germany

Our train the next morning wasn't until almost 11am….so, we could sleep in…….which we kind of did. We usually wake quite early when travelling….well, check that, I wake early all gthe time these days. Our room had a nice view of the park next to the hotel.

IMG_1254

Since we wouldn't be getting into our next stop until after 2pm; we decided to take advantage of the hotel buffet breakfast.

IMG_1251
IMG_1251

IMG_1247

Which, like most buffet breakfasts in Europe was actually not too bad.

IMG_1249
IMG_1249

And after heading back to our room…where I actually took a perfect 20 minute nap, we were soon enough heading to our next stop; to the Missus's favorite city. You know where right?

50720437418_7d68b5f14b_o

Thanks for stopping by!

Stuttgart – The Stiftskirche and Dinner at Alte Kanzlei

IMG_1204After a nice snack at Metzgerei Schneider, we explored and shopped for a bit more, until the Missus decided it was time to head back to the hotel and perhaps find a spot for dinner along the way.

While walking back we came across a grand looking church and since it was still open, we decided to have a look inside. A quick search on my phone indicated that this is the Stiftskirche, which dates back to the 11th century.

There are quite a few burials in the church as Stuttgart became the home to the House of Württemberg in the 14th century.

IMG_1208

IMG_1214

IMG_1212 IMG_1211One side of the nave is lined with statues of the Counts of Württemberg.

And until 1677 all Württemberg rulers were buried in the church.

That's the tomb of Count Ulrich I and his second wife Agnes of Schlesien-Liegnitz, both of whom died in 1265.

There was another tomb with a name that I faintly recognized, but couldn't place until I got home and did some research.  It's the tomb of Johannes Brenz a famous Reformer and Lutheran leader.

IMG_7759

All told, we spent nearly an hour in the church. And there was a striking fountain in the square outside the church named Sparkassenbrunnen.

IMG_1205

I did a quick translate on my phone expecting the name to mean something exotic or historic; instead Sparkassenbrunnen is translated to smoething along the lines of the ""Savings Bank Fountain". Apparently, there was a bank in front of this fountain in 1912 and in 1919 a fountain was built in this spot. The fountain was destroyed in World War II and this was created as a replacement in 1955.

IMG_1218
IMG_1218

As we crossed through Schillerplatz, I noticed a restaurant that I had on my short list for Stuttgart. Located in the former Chancellery Building, Alte Kanzlei serves up traditional Swabian Cuisine. While things seem pretty bright; this was the end of May and the sun didn't set until after 9pm. It was already nearly 6 and we thought we'd get something to eat here before heading back to the hotel. The place was actually quite busy.

IMG_7764

Our Server was quite efficient and professional. Since we had eaten our sandwiches a bit later than usual; the Missus wanted to try the Asparagus Soup (since She loved all the asparagus we had during this trip).

IMG_1230 IMG_1227The bread was quite nice.

The Missus enjoyed Her soup, which had a nice mild vegetal-sweet flavor with a clean finish. As for the almonds….well, we couldn't really taste them in the soup. There was a mild butteriness to the soup as well.

There was one dish that I had read about and wanted to try; Maultaschen, often called "German Ravioli"; it's basically meat mixed with spinach and onions in pasta. There were two variations on the menu. Our nice Server recommended the version coated with eggs and roasted.

IMG_1231 IMG_1232Man, this was a lot of very hearty food for 12,9 €! Along with some simple boiled potatoes and a salad, this was enough for both the Missus and I. I'm glad we only ordered one main and the soup.

We found the Maultaschen to be quite mild in flavor, almost bland. The textures were interesting, but the pasta was mushy and filling was on the tough and chewy side.. The Missus loves anything with eggs….well, almost anything as She didn't care much for this. Not bad, but I really expected a bit more. Oh well, can't win 'em all, right? IMG_1234

The service was good and the prices very reasonable. And needless to say, I didn't leave hungry.

Alte Kanzlei
Schillerplatz 5
70173 Stuttgart, Germany

 

Munich to Stuttgart – Leberkäse From Metzgerei Schnieder (You know, it tastes like…..)

I'm sure I've mentioned this before. I love traveling by train; whether it's Japan (amazing) or Europe; or even the US I could easily spend an entire day on a train. The Missus though, does not have the same belief, though She does humor me. So, when I was in the planning stage for our visit to Munich, of course our final destination for the trip was Paris, I found that the "fast train" times from Munich to Paris timed in at a bit over 5 1/2 hours. The Missus does not want to spend more than 4 hours on a train, so I had to come up with a plan. Doing a bit of research; I found that train times for Munich to Stuttgart was about 2 1/2 hours and Stuttgart to Paris clocked in at a tad over 3 hours. After doing a bit of research; it seemed like Stuttgart might be a nice place to spend an evening. And so it came to be.

IMG_1170

We were staying a short stroll from Munich Central Train Station and also staying right across the street from the Stuttgart Hauptbahnhof.

IMG_7751

Our ride was uneventful and our room was ready when we arrived. We freshened up and, you know the Missus we headed out. The pedestrian only Königstrasse was literally outside our door. The shopping area consisted of mostly chain stores; you know H&M, Zara, and something called TK Maxx? We stopped in a food store and the Missus was immediately engulfed in Haribo products, which She enjoys.

IMG_1171
IMG_1171

The Missus was less than amused when I mentioned forgetting to tell Her that Haribo was founded in Germany. Anyway, it was a bit of over stimulation which caused purchasing paralysis and the Missus eventually lost focus and just bought a couple of items. So at least for the moment "Meine brieftasche wurde gerettet".

At the end of the street is a large and lovely square, Schlossplatz, the palace square.

IMG_1184

IMG_1178

It was a lovely day and this being the end of May (2019), folks were taking advantage of the lovely weather.

IMG_1176

On one side of the square resides the Neues Schloss ("New Palace").

IMG_1183

Along with other historic buildings like the Kunstgebäude ("Art Building").

IMG_1182

Other historic buildings, a lot of green spaces and some interesting memorials.

IMG_1188

That's the Memorial to Victims of Nazis above and the Mercury Pillar below.

IMG_1187

By this time; the Missus and I wanted something small to eat. It was mid-afternoon and we just needed something to hold us until dinner. A block away from the Schlossplatz is the Markthalle (Market Hall), so I suggested we take a look there.

IMG_1189

IMG_1191

And while it was fun oogling the produce…..we spent an inordinate amount of time looking at white asparagus…..

IMG_1195
IMG_1195

Right at the other end of the Market Hall is another pedestrian street; Hirschstrasse. And as we strolled down the street, I saw this shop.

IMG_1200

While the Missus had a seat; I decided to take a look. And though I wasn't able to read the menu…..

IMG_1203

I saw a few things I was interested in and I think the friendly woman working got a kick out of me trying to figure things out. In the end, I got the Missus a Spam ummm, Leberkässemmel (remember the "sir…please no not say Spam….please……"). This was quite good; even better than what we had in Munich.

IMG_1198

That roll was yeasty and crusty; the formed meat was fairly tender, and yes, it tasted like a cross between bologna and "you know what"…..

I enjoyed hat I had ordered even more; Paprika Leberkäse, which along with the good roll, was crisp around the edges.

IMG_1202

Loved the pickles and red peppers that was studded in the meat. There was a slight smokiness to this as well. Really cheap (like 2 Euroes each) and (more than) enough to hold us until dinner.

Metzgerei Schneider
Hirschstrasse 8
Stuttgart, Germany

Hunger sated, we headed off back in the direction we had come from. The afternoon would soon be heading into evening and we still wanted to do a bit more shopping and exploring.

Thanks for stopping by!