Travel – Page 9

Genoa – Traditional Food Tour

March 14, 2025 mmm-yoso Cinque Terre/Genoa, Liguria - Italy, Italian Restaurants, Italy, Travel

Over the years, the Missus and I have become advocates of small group or private traditional food tours with locals. Especially in places that have so much to offer like Emilia – Romana or places like Genoa; where we weren't too familiar with the traditional cuisine. And I thought since we basically spending one full day in the city, we might enjoy walking the streets and tasting traditional cuisine. After doing a bit of research; I settled on Do Eat Better Experience's Traditional Genoa Food Tour.

We met at Vascello Neptune, a replica of a 17th century Galleon that was actually created for the movie Pirates.

Located at the Old Port, Porto Antico, it was just two blocks away from our hotel.

It was a small group; just 8 of us. Funny thing, 4 of the folks were actually on a cruise that stopped in Genoa for a day.

We strolled past the Palazzo San Giorgio, which I mentioned in an earlier post.

And were off to "graze"….

It was a drizzly day, but not too cold.

The Missus and I hadn't really heard a lot about Genoa and were quite taken by all the ornate sculptures and monuments, like this one of the Virgin Mary in the cornerstone of a building.

Our first stop was a little shop to try traditional Focaccia Genovese.

The focaccia cannot be thicker than 2 centimeters and it is lightly coated with Ligurian Olive Oil. The crust is crisp, the interior very light, and it is a staple of the typical Genovese diet.

Focaccia e Dintorni
Via di Canneto Il Curto 54
Genova, Italy

The next stop was this little shop.

That's our guide Marina above. The place smelled heavenly!

Here we got to try Farinata which the locals call Fainá, a flat bread made of chickpea flour, quite nutty with the olive oil flavor coming thru. And Focaccia al Formaggio (aka Focaccia di Recco) which is two thin layers of slightly flaky dough with Stracchino Cheese in the middle. The Village of Recco is most famously known for making this layered focaccia.

Le Delizie dell'Amico
Via di Canneto Il Lungo 31r
Genova, Italy

We passed some interesting looking buildings and churches as we made our north to our next stop.

Which was this restaurant.

Here we had Pesto Lasagne and Minestrone alla Genovese.

The lasagne was quite rich and I was told that it is typical to use a bechamel in this version. The minestrone was quite hearty. Both were bursting with peppery Ligurian pesto flavor.

Ristorante Zimino
Vico delle Scuole Pie 4
Genova, Italy

By this time, it became quite obvious that we needed a short break so we strolled over to bustling Piazza San Lorenzo.

And were given some time to explore the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (Genoa Cathedral).

Apparently, there has been a church here since the 5th or 6th century. This version was first completed in the 11th century.

The altar is quite stunning and there's a ton to see here, but we only had 30 minutes, so we just wandered around.

This is the tomb of Ibleto_Fieschi.

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There are two lion sculptures at the entrance to the Cathedral. The one to the left is famous for looking very sad.

From here we headed more inland, to the East.

We actually passed Christopher Columbus's House, but that photo didn't turn out.

And then we got to our next stop.

Where we had a wine tasting…..

And more wonderful focaccia…..

Topped with a variety of items; pesto (of course), local cheese, salumi……

Man, I was stuffed!

Locanda Tortuga
Via di Ravecca 13r
Genova, Italy

At this point, the folks on the cruise had to head back, and we bade them farewell.

There was just one more stop. Down a quiet alleyway was this chocolate shop.

Which has been around since 1866!

We went to the gelato portion. Then over at the chocolate shop, the Missus stocked up a bit.

Cioccolateria Romeo Viganotti
Vico dei Castagna 14R
Genova, Italy

From here, we strolled back to the Porta Soprana, one of the two surviving ancient gates of the Walls of Genoa.

Where Marina bade us farewell and gave us instructions on how to get back to Porto Antico….which was straight down the street!

Overall, we enjoyed this tour, it was fun tasting and getting a better understanding of Genovese Cuisine.

But now it was time for a nap!

Genoa – Vegia Zena

March 8, 2025 mmm-yoso Cinque Terre/Genoa, Liguria - Italy, Italian Restaurants, Italy, Seafood, Travel

We enjoyed the nice walk along Porto Antico as we strolled back to our hotel.

Yes, it was somewhat touristy….check out all the cruise ships.

But, things were still pretty relaxed and mellow. And the ship were already leaving port as we passed.

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We checked into our hotel and tried to figure out where to get dinner; I wasn't able to get reservations at my first two choices, so I did the obvious. I strolled down to the front desk and asked the really friendly gentleman working for a recommendation of a place that made good local style cuisine. He told me that when he has friends and family staying nearby, he recommends Vegia Zena. He told me look at what the other tables of locals were getting and not pay attention too much to the English menu. The place was a short two streets away, tucked down one of the atmospheric "caruggi"; the alleyways that weave thru the city.

We found the restaurant and entered. It was very brightly lit in comparison to the caruggi. The place was half full; we were quickly seated.

And two menus; basically placemats were placed on the table; one with the Italian menu; the other with an "English" menu. As you can see; the Italian menu had many more items.

Some bread and foccacia were quickly provided.

The foccacia was quite good; crisp, then soft, light saltiness……I got a hint of why folks had mentioned focaccia Genovese to me!

We placed our orders….this being Genova; home to the world pesto championships, of course I had to get the Trofie al Pesto.

While being perhaps a bit over-sauced; the pesto tasted so fresh; peppery-garlic tones-I could really taste the pine nuts in this! Oh the peppery-anise flavors as well. The pasta was perfectly cooked; the slight "twists" holding the sauce well. This was our fourth Trofie al Pesto in Liguria….I could tell the Missus was getting tired of it; though I could have kept on having it!

One thing the Missus wasn't tired of was the seafood; especially the Mussels.

This was a huge portion. Sweet, plump, wonderful brininess….no grit to be found!

For our final item; I had noticed a dish that looked quite good on another table; so I discreetly pointed it out to our Server and ordered it.

Not quite sure what the name of the dish was…I'm thinking it's the Misto Mare Vegia Zena? Man, more wonderful mussles; that langostino! The highlight was the stack of pesto enriched seafood in the middle of the plate. It was so delici-yoso!!!!

And the Missus enjoyed Her dessert.

The meal was a pleasant surprise and the nice fellow at the hotel desk earned himself a good tip as well!

Service was a bit on the serious side; except for the woman working who was quite nice. Overall, a very nice meal!

Vegia Zena
Vico del Serriglio 15R
Genova, Italy

After dinner we took a stroll away from the port and down the alleyways into the city.

Getting a first glance at some of the more ornate buildings heading to the historical center of the city.

Until we got to the Basilica of the Santissima Annunziata del Vastato.

From here we decided to head on back to the hotel. I'd become quite interested in the cuisine of Liguria; so much like we did in Emilia-Romana, we'd be doing a small group food and history tour the following day.

So it was time to head back to our room and get some rest!

Thanks for stopping by!

Cambria – Redwood Cafe

February 25, 2025 mmm-yoso Breakfast/Brunch, Diner, Dog Friendly, Paso Robles/Cambria/San Luis Obispo County, Road Trip, Travel

We made it to Cambria from Morro Bay/Cayucos in record time! It was much too early to check in so we headed to the "East Village" where we had enjoyed the shopping on our previous visits.

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Most of the shops were obviously dog friendly.

And if I wasn't sure, I'd let the Missus enter and wait with JJ outside. And more often then naught, I'd be waved on in.

The Missus really enjoys shopping and browsing in Cambria.

I think that Cinnabar is one of our favorite shopping stops here.

Soon enough, it was time for an early lunch. After checking out a couple of places, we thought that the Redwood Cafe, located in the lot where we had parked our car seemed to have a nice outdoor dining area.

We waked over and were told to go ahead and pick a table; which we did.

The service was very…shall we say "relaxed" and things happened at a slower pace; not a bad things since we were on holiday and didn't know when our room would be ready.

The Missus got the special of the day; Chilaquiles. The eggs were nice and runny. The beans were very…ummmm…"gringo" and pasty.

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The chips were nicely drenched in a red sauce; which was super sour and puckery.

I got a bowl of the Cilantro Chicken Soup.

Lots of tomato and celery. Also super sour! We ended up asking for some hot sauce and once we added some Tapatio to our dishes, things evened out a bit. I could then actually taste some chicken flavor.

Well, it was a nice day, the weather so pleasant and JJ enjoyed hanging out in the shade.

Redwood Cafe
2094 Main St.
Cambria, CA 93428

In fact, JJ kinda enjoyed the "hocus pocus" of Cambria!

And just as we were paying for our meal, I got a text that our room was ready! Nice! We'd be able to check in a couple of hours early and squeeze in a nap!

Genoa – Antica Friggitoria Carega and Eataly

February 22, 2025 mmm-yoso Cinque Terre/Genoa, Liguria - Italy, Italian Restaurants, Italy, Markets & Grocers, Seafood, Travel

We were sad to leave the Cinque Terre. We had really enjoyed our stay. My first instinct when planning our trip was to head back to Milan. But while planning things out, I watched Stanley Tucci's Searching for Italy and in the episode on Liguria he visited Genoa and basically indicated that it was the "home of pesto". The episode featured a restaurant, Il Genovese, yes I made sure to call Genoa, "Genova" during my time in Italy. Anyway, the owner of the restaurant established the Pesto World Championship. And heck, we'd had pesto almost everyday during our stay in Liguria, so it made sense to stay in the city, right?

It was a mere hour-and-a-half train ride from Monterosso to the main train station in Genoa. We were staying in near the Old Port, Porto Antico. It was an interesting half hour walk from the train station as we got an introduction to the Caruggi di Genova, the narrow alleyways of the city. Our hotel, the Best Western Hotel Porto Antico Genoa was right down one of these side streets. We had arrived too early to check in, so we stored our luggage and went for a walk.

There are quite a few things to see in the area. It seemed quite touristy during the days, but quiet during the evenings. We quickly figured out things when we saw two cruise ships in port. Still, in spite of having a population of over a half-million, things seemed so relaxed.

It was interesting to watch folks line up for the Bigo a lift on cranes which give you views of the city.

We decided to just relax, especially after all the walking and hiking we did in the Cinque Terre. Just take our two nights and enjoy things.

While walking down the lovely porticos of the waterfront we noticed this little shop. The smell of frying seafood wafting in the air.

Looking things over, we got a "Misto a Piacere" (mixed seafood), "medio" (medium) for a mere 9,5€!

The Missus didn't want the calamari, so we got just the Gamberi Fritti (Shrimp) and Fritto di Pesce (Anchovy). Man the shrimp was fried nicely, still crisp, and quite briny-sweet.

I loved the crisp-savory anchovy. Like I said before, the seafood in Liguria!

Nothing like some good fry-o-lated seafood to get started in Genoa!

Antica Friggitoria Carega
Via di Sottoripa 113r
Genova, Italy

We decided do a bit more exploring before heading back to the hotel. There's quite a bit to do. The Genoa Aquarium is right across…well, across and under highway SS1 which hugs the shoreline, there's Vascello Neptune, a replica of a Spanish Galleon. It was market day at the port.

Part of which ran right under the highway.

We took our time checking things out.

And though we didn't find anything we were interested in; this little one seemed to be happy with its purchase!

We passed this historic building. It's the Palazzo San Giorgio, which is currently the HQ of the Port Authority. This lovely building was built in the 13th Century and the palace was once a prison.

Which housed the one and only Marco Polo. It is said that during his time in the prison, Marco Polo dictated his travels to a fellow prisoner; the writer Rustichello da Pisa. The manuscript which eventually became The Travels of Marco Polo!

A bit further down the port we noticed a location of Eataly.

Well, we'd been to Eataly locations in Copenhagen, Florence, and Bologna, so we thought why not check it out?

As always, there's much to tempt you if you have the $$$$ or in this case the €€€€.

The cheese looked quite enticing, but we were only spending two nights in the city.

And we'd find better ways to spend our Euros.

Still, it was a fun exploring…..

Eataly Genova
Edificio Millo, Calata Cattaneo 15
Genova, Italy

As we left the shop, we figured it was time to check in and take a break before heading out to dinner.

We were enjoying our time in Genova!

Thanks for stopping by!

Road Trip – La Parisienne (Morro Bay) and Luna Coffee Bar (Cayucos)

February 7, 2025 mmm-yoso Bakery, Caffeine Fix, Paso Robles/Cambria/San Luis Obispo County, Road Trip, Travel

We had a decent night's sleep at our hotel, the Harbor House Inn, which was super dog friendly. Of course JJ was still a really young pupper and had to go potty at 3am, but the hotel has a designated green space for that.

After waking and feeding the pup breakfast, we gave him time to "settle" then headed on out for a morning walk before checking out. On our last visit, we had spent time at the shops and such. This time around, we walked north toward the "rock". We had noticed a bakery of sorts during our last visit right off the Embarcadero and Front Street. In need of something for a light breakfast, this time we headed on in to the shop, named La Parisienne.

After looking over the rather large selection; I decided on getting a quiche and ended up choosing the Bacon and Caramelized Onion Quiche. I ordered a coffee for the Missus who was waiting with JJ at the table outside.

The really nice woman working heated up the quiche and even delivered it to our table outside.

She even provided two forks without me asking! This was pretty good, sweet-savory, nice crisp top, creamy-rich interior. Well worth the $5.75 to me!

Not bad at all!

La Parisienne
1140 Front St.
Morro Bay, CA 93442

On our last visit to the area we didn't take the time to check out "the rock", so we decided to walk on over.

Though JJ seemed to prefer the Ice Plants…..

In Coleman Park is this Plaque. Morro Bay is where the first Filipinos landed in the United States on October 18, 1587!

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Well, didn't the Pilgrim's land in 1620???? So….maybe we should be having Adobo for Thanksgiving? Hmmm……

Based on how many folks we'd seen the night before, we were surprised to find the park around Morro Rock to be quite quiet and peaceful.

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The views of the coast were also quite nice.

The Missus asked me what that town was in the distance. I told Her it's Cayucos. I also mentioned that there's a pier with some nice views, so we decided that should be our next stop. So, we walked back to the hotel, packed up, and checked out and drove the short distance to Cayucos.

It was fairly busy, but we still found parking on North Ocean Avenue and made the stroll down the pier.

I admired those surfers, cause the water looked fah-reezing!

We then took a stroll down Ocean Avenue with JJ. I had thoughts about having brunch at The Hidden Kitchen, but the line was crazy long, so we looked for a coffee place instead and saw this sign.

And went down the little passage way to this coffeehouse.

Which had a quaint patio.

And JJ and I had a seat, while the Missus went in and ordered a Latte for Her and a Cold Brew for myself. The breakfasts looked quite large, so we decided to just get our caffeine fix.

The Cold Brew was fine, it did the job; the Missus thought Her latte was on the weaker end of the spectrum, but we enjoyed the vibe here.

Luna Coffee Bar
84 North Ocean Ave.
Cayucos, CA 93430

As a bonus, right next door to the coffee shop is a location of the Brown Butter Cookie Company. We had been to the Paso Robles location, so we knew it was a nice place to grab a few omiyagi for folks.

Brown Butter Cookie Company
98 North Ocean Ave.
Cayucos, CA 93430

We enjoyed the beach town vibe of Cayucos and will think about staying here or perhaps at Avila Beach in the future.

So folks, between Cayucos, Avila Beach, or Pismo Beach, which so you prefer?

JJ would like to know!

Morro Bay – Giovanni’s Fish Market And Galley

February 6, 2025 mmm-yoso Markets & Grocers, Paso Robles/Cambria/San Luis Obispo County, Road Trip, Seafood, Travel

JJ seemed to be enjoying Morro Bay. After taking a short break, we decided to head out for dinner.

Like I mentioned in previous post, I had forgotten that it was MLK Day, but during our pre-dinner walk, things didn't seem to busy. Well, when we set out for dinner it was a whole 'nother story. Places were packed; we stopped by the Galley which didn't take reservations hoping that because it was winter folks wouldn't be sitting on the patio…well there was an hour wait for a table! We went down my list and the story was the same…..man, it was busy!

In the end, we decided to check out the place we'd stopped by before Giovanni's Fish Market And Galley, which I recalled had an outdoor dining area to see what was going on.

So, the Missus went to take a look at the market, while went to the walk up window.

And while still waiting in line, the Missus returned with Her bounty. I ordered to supplement what She had bought.

She had gotten the smoked fish, which was mild in flavor.

IMG_5187b It was very moist; though it had a ton of bones. Still it was not bad.

She also got the smoked mussels, which had some "grit" and was on the chewy side, but still retained the oceany-sweetness and a touch of smokiness. Also not bad.

Of course, the important accompaniment was the Pitcher of Modelo.

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Our favorite item of the meal were the Garlic Fries, which had been dusted, thus making it quite crisp.

They weren't shy about the amount of garlic or cheese, which made this quite enjoyable.

I also got a Dozen Oysters.

They also strangely gave me some packets of Tapatio….and after tasting the oysters I knew why. I'm always a fan of the "finish" when having oysters; these were on the chewier side and really mild in flavor. The Missus lamented the lack of a Mignonette, which cracked me up….as this was just a food stand of sorts.

It wasn't quite the dinner we had in mind.

Giovanni's Fish Market And Galley
1001 Front St.
Morro Bay, CA 93442

Though JJ wasn't complaining about things.

In fact, I think he offered to catch dinner for us; but I quickly pointed out the "No Fishing" sign……

And our after dinner walk was quite lovely!

Thanks for stopping by!

Liquria – Visiting Levanto, a Pesto Class at Cinque Sensi, and dinner at Taverna del Capitano (Vernazza)

February 1, 2025 mmm-yoso Cinque Terre/Genoa, Liguria - Italy, Italian Restaurants, Italy, Seafood, Travel, Wine Bars/Wineries

We were at the train station in Corniglia, wondering what to do. Well, we had already been to all five villages of the Cinque Terre, but I had an idea. The Northernmost stop on the train route is the town of Levanto, known for the beaches, surfing, and resorts. Getting there from Corniglia took less than 15 minutes!

It was about a fifteen minute walk from the train station into the Old Town. There's a daily market in the covered market hall, but it had already closed when we arrived.

We walked into the Old Town on Via Garibaldi where a gate dating from the 1700's marks the start of a charming pedestrian only street.

It was so calm on this day….which was a Saturday!

Via Dante Alighieri is one of the streets that go to the beach.

Interestingly, there's a "promenade" that rises above the shore, you need to cross thru one of passages under the promenade or go up cross the street, then back down the other side to access the beach.

It was quite a lovely winter day and not very crowded. We loved watching this pooch enjoying his "back scratch" moment!

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There were folks enjoying a winter days at the beach and a couple of surfers as well.

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I was told Levanto is a nice option to the busy Cinque Terre as it is still a short train ride from the villages, has beaches, is cheaper, and a bit more laid back.

I've also read that there's quite a bit to see and do beyond the beach as well.

And lots of history as well.

As for us, well we just did a quick hour or so walk before heading back to Vernazza.

Well, in contrast to Levanto, Vernazza was buzzing on this Saturday afternoon.

The Missus wanted to do some shopping then relax. So, I decided to take a pesto class, wine and olive oil tasting at one of the wine bars right past the train station.

I had noticed that Cinque Sensi had pesto classes three times a day; the 3pm and 530 pm classes also did a wine and olive oil tasting. Not cheap at 50 Euros, but this ended up being a lot of fun.

I learned that there are over 60 varieties of basil in Liguria! Also, you should never use a food processor; heat is the enemy of basil, so the colder the temp the better.

And of course, we had to pick the basil leaves by hand!

First crush the garlic; then the pine nuts. You add salt to the mortar, then the basil leaves and crush. To types of cheese are used Parmigiano Reggiano and Pecorino Sardo.

This is what my final product looked like.

Of course, just as we were about to taste guess who showed up? Yep, so the Missus got a chance to taste the pesto, which She said was delicious and could not believe I made. And also some wine and olive oil.

This was a fun hour-and-a-half class.

Cinque Sensi Vernazza
Via Roma 71
Vernazza, Italy

We took another stroll down to the piazza and harbor.

It was much calmer on this afternoon.

We then headed back to the flat and took a break. And since I know, no post in Vernazza is complete without a photo of stairs…..

This was the view from the living room as the sun went down.

We decided to head on down to the harbor and piazza for our last meal in Vernazza. This being the winter season, not all the restaurant are open. The only other place we hadn't tried was next to Ananasso Bar, a place specializing is seafood named Taverna del Capitano. We had been forewarned that the service here was awful, but we decided to go ahead and try it out. A big plus was that it was a decent evening and we had a table outside.

And our experience with the service was fine. A bit slow, but of course a Negroni makes everything better right?

The bread offered was terrible; sorry to say I forgot to take a photo. Our strategy stayed the same; go for local seafood, don't order anything too fancy, keep it simple. Which worked out for us again.

The smoked swordfish was quite meaty; though not as "smoky" in flavor as we like. The Balsamic did add some personality to the dish which would have been pretty bland otherwise.

The house preparation of Anchovy – three ways was a winnah!

We were told that these came from Monterosso; the fried version was crisp and salty; so umami. The version with lemon was tart and rich, the soaked in olive oil on the potent oily-rich scale. All different, all enjoyable in their own way.

Of course we got the Mussels.

Plump, sweet, this version had more butter and a more pronounced acidity, which really added to the flavors. We polished it off in no time.

Not a bad last dinner at all!

Taverna del Capitano
Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 21
Vernazza, Italy

Now here's were it gets a bit interesting. Remember how I mentioned that being in a little village during the slow season means you'll notice things? Well, while we were eating, we noticed this woman having a drink at Taverna del Capitano.

Well, we had seen her the night before having a drink at Ananasso Bar and then at the bar at Gianni Franzi and on our first night at the bar across from 5 Terre Bistrot. Always alone; always wearing the white jacket.

We went to have a drink to mark our last evening in Vernazza at Ananasso Bar.

And guess who was getting another drink there?

By this time we'd gotten to know one of the Servers at Ananasso Bar and we mentioned the woman to him. He looked at us and smiled saying "ah yes, mystery woman, she showed up a few weeks back by herself and has been here since!" Mystery woman?!??!

Oh the stories that must ride the tides in the Cinque Terre!

Well, for us it was getting late, it was time to head on back to finish packing and hopefully get a good night sleep before heading out the next day.

The next morning we did the typical espresso routine, took a last stroll around the town, packed, then dropped off the keys to the flat at one of the restaurants. We caught our train to Monterosso for our transfer to Genoa.

There's a nice bar/cafe at the train station, Bar Della Stazione, which has a nice view.

The Missus and I got a caffeine fix and shared a panini for a light lunch.

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And soon we were off to our next stop; Genoa! It was going to be interesting to see how we'd deal with a big city after enjoying the relaxed confines of winter in the Cinque Terre!

Thanks for stopping by!

Cinque Terre – Castello Doria (Vernazza), Corniglia, and Caffè Matteo (Corniglia)

January 31, 2025 mmm-yoso Breakfast/Brunch, Caffeine Fix, Cinque Terre/Genoa, Liguria - Italy, Croissants, Italy, Travel

It was our third full day in the Cinque Terre, but it for some reason, it felt like we'd been here for a while. We kept running into a very friendly Aussie couple, like 2-3 times a day. They were staying in a flat we could see from our window with a patio overlooking the sea. We'd see them having wine every evening. We gotta stay there next time!

By now, our morning coffee routine was a visit to Ananasso Bar.

Where the views from one of the tables overlooking the harbor is wonderful.

The wind and the rain from the night before had made for fairly clear skies and the winter air was crisp.

This seemed like a perfect time to visit Castello Doria (Doria Castle) and the tower of the ruins which stands on the edge of a ridge overlooking the village and the sea. Of course, there were a good number of stairs to climb!

The views from the tower are fantastic; especially on a clear day like this was.

From one side you could see the south shoreline.

From the other the North.

And of course a postcard view of Vernazza below.

While admiring the views, the Missus and I discussed our plans for the day. Well, it ended up being pretty easy; we'd been to four of the five villages f the Cinque Terre. There was just one left, Corniglia. We decided we needed to complete the "set".

So, it was back to the apartment to get our stuffs….yes, more stairs…..

On the way up to the train station, we decided to take a peek at the tiny chapel on the main street, Via Roma.

This lovely little temple is the Chapel of Santa Marta.

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And then we were off to Corniglia; the train there takes only 4 minutes! Corniglia has the distinction of being the only one of the five villages not on the ocean; instead it is perched on a hill above the water. Though the train station is at the bottom of the hill.

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So, to get up to this village of 150, you need to catch the shuttle……or…..

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Yep, you guessed it; take the stairs, all 382 of them! Guess which option the Missus picked?

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No, I didn't count them. It actually wasn't too bad because they were nicely maintained and quite even.

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Once near the top, you simply walk thru some narrow streets and end up where the shuttle buses actually stop.

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We strolled along Via Stazione into the charming little village. And ended up at a lovely little square in front of a church.

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This is the lovely Chiesa Di San Pietro.

Which was built way back in 1334!

While enjoying the white marble interior, we quickly noticed a pooch walking thru the church. The dog had a harness on and we thought he was with the nice gentleman and his son. However, when they left the church, the pup did not!

He just hung around and greeted people.

And when folks started coming in for what appeared to be services, he took his leave! Such a well mannered pooch!

You'd weave your way between buildings.

And then suddenly find yourself on the edge with a view.

Crossing over we entered what looked like the "downtown" of Corniglia, there were some cafes and restaurants and a nice little square. And an interesting chapel.

With an even more interesting…and kinda gory statue in the front.

Later on, I did a search in Google maps and found that this is the Cappella dei Flagellati Corniglia, the "Chapel of the Flagellants". Which explains the statue; because you know what Flagellants are, right?

It's quite a lovely area.

Following the instructions of Rick Steves Cinque Terre guide we walked down the little street named Via Fieschi.

Which led us to a lovely terrace known as Santa Maria Belvedere, which had beautiful 180 degree views of the Ligurian Coast.

Corniglia was so chill!

We decided to get a very light brunch and some espresso and headed back to the square, Largo Taragio. Where the Caffè Matteo was doing some good business! This was the most folks we saw in Corniglia.

And they had a bunch of breakfast deals going.

The Missus got a croissant and coffee for 3 Euros; I got the croissant, coffee, and OJ for 5 Euros. The prices were indeed quite fair; even though the croissant, as expected was not very good.

The exterior hard, the interior too brady and doughy, not enough butter…but of course, we expected that.

Between the carbs and the coffee; well, that was enough to keep us until later in the day.

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And at 8 Euros for two?

Caffè Matteo
Via Fieschi 157
Corniglia, Italy

And carbs were good, because well, remember those 382 steps???

I also loved this sign that was in the cafe…..

As the Missus and I waited for the train; we made a decision on where we'd be going to next….since we'd been to all five villages in the Cinque Terre; we thought we'd visit one to the North where the local train ended.

Stay Tuned!

Road Trip – Ojai Rotie Revisited (Ojai)

January 26, 2025 mmm-yoso Dog Friendly, Lebanese Restaurants, Paso Robles/Cambria/San Luis Obispo County, Road Trip, Sandwiches, Travel, Ventura County

We just got back from a short two night road trip with JJ. It was actually going to be longer, but then the wildfires that have ravaged SoCal happened, and with me monitoring things (Watch Duty is a awesome app), we cut two nights out of the trip (donated the funds to fire relief) and just decided to do Morro Bay and one of our favorite towns in SLO County, Cambria.

We always regretted not taking Sammy and Frankie on Road Trips and we wanted to make sure to have no such regrets with the "J". JJ also seemed to do really well during car rides though he barks and whines like a banshee when waiting for the ride to begin and once the car permanently stops. We're not sure how he knows we've reached our destination, but he strangely does. Hopefully his puppy classes will ease that. However, during the drive he is a perfect angel!

Well, we were amazed to find that JJ handles the drive quite well. In fact, we made one stop at a usual place, which I've posted on three times already in Oxnard. Traffic on the 101 seemed quite typical and while there was haze and smoke it didn't seem too bad. I was concerned about the Auto Fire, but it was fully contained before we left and we really didn't notice much smoke or ash when we stopped at The Collection and took JJ for his "break". He was such a champ.

In fact, when we were back on the 101, the Missus saw the exit to Ojai, another town we enjoy, and requested a detour for lunch. So, off we went. It was Sunday, so the Ojai Farmers Market, another favorite of ours was taking place. Man, the town was packed! I had forgotten that it was MLK weekend! Anyway, we found parking down one of the side streets. We quickly noticed, that unlike our previous visits, with the friendly locals, this was tourist heaven, many of whom were quite pushy and plain rude. The Missus did a quick walk thru the Farmers Market while I took JJ for a walk….dogs are strictly not allowed at the market, folks would be waiting for their partners at the entrance with their pooches.

And then we headed off to find a place for a dog friendly lunch.

We noticed that Ojai Rotie, which we visited before (remember that cool shirt the guy gave me?) was just opening, so that would be it for lunch. I did wish I had brought my "Ojai Psychic Friends Network" t-shirt. Folks and families were cutting in line to get in and all.

Folks didn't know that once in, unless you had reservations you needed to order at the counter. Once in, I headed right to the counter, only to have folks cut in front of me again. When I casually mentioned this to the four guys who cut in front of me they told me "we were in front of you in the other line, so f-off". Nice, huh? The folks A really felt bad for were the locals working, who were just as nice as on our previous visit.

Anyway, I just went and ordered a Grilled Eggplant Sandwich ($19). I told them to pack it to go "just in case", though the Missus and JJ did find a two top.

As before, the sourdough bread was wonderful. It was grilled nice and crisp, slight yeastiness, mild yogurty-sourness, very pleasant.

As for the rest? Well, the pepper-bitter arugula sprouts really dominated the sandwich. We really couldn't make out the pesto. The texture of the eggplant was good, but again, the seasoning-flavor was nullified. At least the milky-nutty Manchego cheese did come thru.

IMG_5158a

Not terrible; good bread, but if we return we'll try something else next time.

Ojai Rotie
469 E Ojai Ave.
Ojai, CA 93023

We then got the heck out of town as quick as we could. We were really thinking about doing a road trip here. If we do, we'll make sure it's in the off season and also not during a holiday weekend!

The trip to Morro Bay took a bit less than 3 hours and JJ did perfect. We booked the Harbor House Inn which was described as being dog friendly, which it was indeed. They even had a little welcome bag for JJ. It was just a few blocks from the Embarcadero. After checking in, we took JJ right down to the harbor and strolled past all those familiar places.

And had a photo-op or two…..

Before taking a short pre-dinner break. JJ seemed to be enjoying things; which made us happy.

Thanks for stopping by!

Cinque Terre – Back to Monterosso al Mare, Aperitivo at Ananasso Bar, and Dinner at Gambero Rosso (Vernazza)

January 18, 2025 mmm-yoso Cinque Terre/Genoa, Liguria - Italy, Cocktails, Italian Restaurants, Italy, Seafood, Travel

After enjoying our time in Riomaggiore and Manarola, the Missus decided She wanted to revisit Monterosso. Which was not a big deal since it was just a 12 minute train ride to Monterosso and boy was I happy we weren't hiking there! My knees were still stiff from that one! Like before, we got out at the station in the New Town and walked thru the tunnel to the Old Town. This time we went further up the main street, Via Roma.

Along the way, we came across something that kinda reminded us of Japan in a way. A vending machine. This one is like a portable pharmacy!

We enjoyed doing the "Flâneur" thing. After a busy morning, just wandering in the largest village of the Cinque Terre with a "massive" population of 1,300, away from the major tourist stops was relaxing.

It gave us time to really appreciate the beautiful colors of the Cinque Terre.

As we got closer to the train tracks and the shoreline more businesses appeared, but because this was the winter season, things seemed quite sedate.

Sometimes, just meandering around can be more fun then having to see all the required sights.

As we headed back to the New Town and the train station, the Missus decided She wanted another gelato from Gelateria La Scogliera. And of course we needed to sit and have that view of the bay as well.

Gelateria La Scogliera
Via Fegina 20
Monterosso al Mare, Italy

Back in Vernazza, we climbed those stairs back to the apartment and relaxed, before heading back out. We strolled down Via Visconti toward the breakwater to get that "typical" view of Vernazza Harbor and Piazza Guglielmo Marconi.

It seems that more than a few folks had the same idea in mind.

Then it was time for something I'd really taken to during our stay in Milan; aperitivo time. And the lovely Piazza Guglielmo Marconi seemed like the perfect place.

So, we were back at Ananasso Bar, where we'd had our morning espresso. We actually sat at the two top right out the door of the shop. And guess who decided to take a "break" below my seat?

Yep, it was the ferocious feline we saw earlier in the day! Of course, I wasn't going to try to make it move, nor even bother it at all!

As for our aperotivo.

The Missus ordered the "non si sa", the "bartender's choice"! In this case an interesting aperol with tequila and mezcal, which was right down the Missus's alley. I got the Negroni Basilico; made with Cinque Terre Basil and Cocchi Americano which added a nice bitter-sweet tone; the basil added some interesting peppery-anise flavors.

Ananasso Bar
Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 30
Vernazza, Italy

We also got some free entertainment, courtesy of this fellow.

I guess he's one of the caretakers of the piazza. He came on down singing, greeting everyone, playing "air guitar" on his broom!

Such a nice and friendly fellow.

By this time, the waves started picking up.

Quite dramatically.

At one point, the first couple of tables nearest the beach on the piazza got splashed. I'm glad we sat where we did!

For dinner, we picked a spot next to Gianni Franzi where we'd had dinner the previous night. We were told that Gambero Rosso was the "finest" restaurant in the area, so we had to check it out, right?

It had started drizzling and the waves were pounding the shore, so we dined in the warm, stone walled dining room.

The service was a bit rushed, but the place was pretty busy. Prices were a bit more than on the previous night. Sticking with local seafood/products and uncomplicated dishes had served us well thus far so we weren't going to deviate.

First up was the Misto de Acciughe alla Gambero Rosso. The house style anchovies. Basically both fried and filet of anchovies.

These were fine; the fried version crisp and savory, the salted filets fine, though not as full of umami as we'd had the night before.

The Trofie al Pesto was better than we'd had the previous night, though not as enjoyable as what we'd had at 5 Terre Bistrot.

The real "winnah" of the evening were the Mussels. Oh my, so plump, mildly sweet – oceany, not a bit of grit to be found!

Cooked simply and perfectly. We plowed thru this in no time!

Like I said, simple and local…….

Ristorante Il Gambero Rosso
Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 7
Vernazza, Italy

Things were quite damp when we left the restaurant. And not all of it due to the mild drizzle.

Looking between the buildings you could see what the waves had brought ashore. In fact, waves were hitting the window of the living room of the apartment! I wish I had taken a photo of that!

We were really enjoying ourselves. The charming and colorful villages, the views, the wildness of the sea….but, to be honest, it was those little special moments that really made our stay memorable!