Paris (2022) – Circling Back to Arnaud Nicolas and Romance is Alive in the City of Lights

We had a nice little nap after our lunch at Ippudo. Also, we had dinner reservations in the 7th and of course the Missus would want to walk there and back, so we'd be putting in a few miles on this day….I wanted to get in a bit of rest.

I knew that our walk to Arnaud Nicolas was going to be about 3 miles each way and we had reservations for right when they opened at 7pm. So we headed out at around 530 to give us some time to window shop, dawdle, and make stops to check things out.

Sunset was after 9pm in Paris, so it still looked like a bright and sunny Saturday. Look how busy it was along the Seine.

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We actually took a longer route because the Missus wanted to see how things were coming along at Notre Dame.

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Things were much more calm in the 7th……

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We got to Arnaud Nicolas right at opening time. Arnaud Nicolas had sort of become a tradition for us since we first ate here at the end of 2017. We made it a point to try and revisit whenever we could. We had reservations for our last night in Paris back at the end of 2019, but due to getting stranded by the transit strike we never made it. So we were looking forward to this meal. Once seated we noticed a couple of things…..the staff, though still friendly were not quite up to snuff….our Server was so nice, but really couldn't tell us about the wine or even the dishes…I'm guessing Covid staff shortages and such. The place also filled up quite quickly, which is not the norm in Paris where folks eat a bit later…..after a few moments it became quite clear, all the customers were either Ex-pats or tourists.

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Listening in to what folks ordered was interesting as no one ordered any charcuterie; which to us is what Arnaud Nicolas winner of the Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) at the young age of 24 was known for. And soon, again probably due to Covid staffing, the three staff were pretty much in the weeds.

As for us……this is what we got…

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The Asperges Vertes – green asparagus dish was fine.

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The asparagus, in season during our visit was sweet and tender, the egg yolk added a creamy-richness, though the popcorn seemed a weird addition; perhaps it was added for texture, but it really didn't seem to belong in this dish.

Of course the Foie Gras Mi-Cuit was delicious.

IMG_2432 IMG_2434  Perfectly textured, with a wonderful balance of offal-sweet tones, it's one of my favorites versions.

Sadly, another favorite of mine, the Pate en Croute of pork and foie gras really fell short. In the past, it was the crisp, light pastry that really made this a favorite of mine. This time it was really hard and chewy….it was even difficult to cut! It was also very cold, which detracted from the flavors as well.

The Fromage de Tete – head cheese also wasn't quite the same as before as it lacked the complex combination of flavors from the different porky pig head parts…..it was strangely on the bland side. We were happy to have the nice and punchy Sauce Gribiche on hand.

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The Missus had always enjoyed the Rum Baba here and I was relieved that She still liked it.

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While I had a Calvados as my digestif.

Overall, we were a bit disappointed with this meal….perhaps we had expected too much…perhaps Covid had really affected supplies…..we did give the place a pass on the service because of it.

Perhaps next time we'll just order takeout from the deli and have a foie gras picnic.

Arnaud Nicolas
46 Avenue de la Bourdonnais
75007 Paris, France

After dinner, the Missus wanted to see one of Her favorite views of the Eiffel Tower, so we headed across the Seine to the area around Trocadero.

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Where She snapped a ton of photos.

I noticed how peaceful things looked along the Seine so we went down the stairs and walked along the river; where we came across something wonderful.

A group of folks had gathered both on the sidewalk above and along the river.

IMG_5601  IMG_5599There was a sign was set-up, candles, photographers, a violinist! Music was playing! All with a view of the Eiffel Tower!

A nervous looking gentleman in a suit paced back and forth……it looks like a marriage proposal was going to happen.

As time passed more people gathered…all here to watch the spectacle. All strangers sharing in a special moment.

We figured that the proposal was to go down when the when the lights of the Eiffel Tower were sparkling!

How romantic!

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That time came and went…..it seems the bride to be was a bit late.

Regardless, a few minutes later, a young lady appeared on the walkway and covered her mouth in surprise as she saw the sign…….we all cheered at her arrival. The Missus has an actual video of this, but it was kind of on the dark side, so I didn't include it.

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The music played, the crowd cheered, and I'm fairly certain she said "yes".

We were thrilled to have seen this…….

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The Missus and I kept smiling during our walk back to the apartment.

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Louvre

Romance is indeed alive in the "City of Lights". Wouldn't you agree?

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Roadtrip (During Covid) – Coffeholic (West Covina), Eddie World (Yermo), and Dinner at Partage (Las Vegas)

My attempt at using up all my vacation days led us to schedule another road trip a mere 6 weeks after returning from Yosemite. This time we'd be headed to Zion, Monument Valley, and Sedona….with a couple of stops along the way; which included the SGV and Las Vegas, We again stayed at the Courtyard Monterey Park and again ate at Bistro Na's; so I won't even post on that.

The next morning we headed out to Vegas, first stopping for our caffeine fix in West Covina at a place named Coffeholic.

IMG_0734 IMG_4146  This shop was in an interesting location; in the Lakes Mall, near Edwards Cinema, near a bunch of shopping center-chain looking places, banks, and offices. Needless to say, at 8am on a Tuesday, there was not another soul around.

So….service was quick, I had my usual….and the Missus got a pour over (of course), which was super cheap at 5 bucks…..and of course, She got what She paid for.

Regardless, we got our coffee sat and sat for a bit.

Coffeeholic
1240 Lakes Drive Unit B
West Covina, CA 91790

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Since we hadn't been to Old Town/Downtown in ages…..like over 20 years we also took a stroll down South Glendora Avenue…..it was so quiet here, almost spooky in a way…..hard to believe this is West Covina.

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And after getting in our fix, we headed off…..

It used to be that we'd stop in Barstow for fuel and a "bio break"….but the last time we drove up to Vegas, our usual stop, the Barstow Outlets seemed to be getting somewhat run down. So, I decided that our refueling stop should be at place in Yermo named "Eddie World", which is supposedly the largest gas station in SoCal….. And much like Bravo Farms has restaurants, a huge candy shop….

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IMG_4150 IMG_4148  And all kinds of snacks and "stuffs" that you never knew that you needed. The restrooms were super clean and it was fun walking around checking things out.

Also, we usually bring nuts and beef jerky on our road trips to cure the pangs of hunger should they set in. This time we hadn't brought jerky; so I bought some stuffs from Jedidiah's Jerky in Eddie World.

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We then topped off our tank and headed to Vegas.

EddieWorld
36017 Calico Rd.
Yermo, CA 92398

We got to Vegas in good time. As I mentioned before, the Missus isn't a big fan of staying on the strip, so we stayed at the Homewood Suites on the other side of the I-15 from the strip. Man, had it been over 8 years since we'd been in Vegas? And then of course, there was the question of "where to eat"? Of course, there were places off the strip that had been favorites of years past.

But since we'd be staying on or near National Parks and such, there's not a lot of great choices for eating. I figured we'd be back on the "burger bandwagon" again….so like our previous road trip, I set-up nice "bookend dinners" for us.

After doing a bit of research, I found a French inspired tasting menu only restaurant named Partage, located on of all places Spring Mountain Road, Las Vegas's unofficial "Chinatown" where many of the best Asian restaurants in the city can be found.

I had full intended on driving to the restaurant, but of course the Missus had other ideas and decided we should walk the almost two miles to Partage. 

And so it came to be that we walked to the restaurant.

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Partage is located in the same strip mall complex as places such as Shokku Ramen, Pho Kim Long, King Fu Thai and Chinese, and Lee's Sandwiches; so yes, it does kind of stand out.

We arrived at the designated time and were seated.

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The menu card has the story of Partage.

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The Missus and I both took the 7 Course Tasting ($125) menu; the Missus took the wine pairing ($55) and I selected the Foie Gras and Oxtail supplement ($27). Service was quite professional if a bit stiff and our Server was quite sweet but really didn't know the dishes too well.

Thing started with the Amuse – a Pomme de Truffle. Which was delicious.

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A crunchy potato round with truffle….man, this was good!

The first dish was the Butternut Squash Veloute with a Coffee-Truffle Foam.

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Loved the earthy mushrooms, which also, along with the croutons added a nice crunch. The coffee-truffle foam tasted a bit odd and the dish was perhaps a bit too sweet for my taste.

The Lobster Cannelloni with Leek Foam, and Lobster Bisque was good.

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For me, the wonderful bisque was the hightlite of the dish; wonderful sweet-oceany flavors, velvety texture. The Mimolette cheese in the cannelloni added a nutty texture; though I wish the lobster flavor came thru a bit more in the cannelloni.

The Rabbit Boudin Blanc was amazing, while the Rabbit Brulee had a wonderful texture, but was again on the overly sweet side.

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Love the seasonings in the sausage and the mildly gamy flavors of rabbit seemed to fit in so perfectly in a boudin blanc.

The Missus and I shared the Foie Gras supplement, which was quite generous in size.

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The foie gras was seared perfectly and was so wonderfully decadent. The passionfruit powder was a perfect addition to the dish and the gingerbread wasn't overly sweet. The was delici-yoso!!!!

The Halibut and Sunchoke two ways was a good dish; the hailibut perhaps a bit overcooked, but still moist and tender.

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We enjoyed the unique nutty-sweetness of the sunchoke puree and the hazelnut crusted sunchoke was also quite tasty. A nice variation of textures.

The Oxtail Supplement was an Oxtail Croque Monsieur, which like the Foie Gras supplement was worth the price of admission!

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Such amazing beefiness! Having the shaved black truffle didn't hurt at all either!

By this point in the meal, the Missus wasn't really wow'd by the wine pairing. We quickly noticed that almost everyone in the restaurant were having cocktails and not wine. And with good reason….they made some very good cocktails.

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The meat course for the evening was a pretty much by-the-book preparation of Beef Tenderloin.

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The beef was a bit tougher than I prefer; though I loved the sweet-buttery leek confit and the brioche went surprisingly well with the jus. The red wine reduction wasn't overbearing and added to the flavor of the beef as well.

And the Missus enjoyed the desserts…..

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Even though the Missus wasn't too impressed with the wine pairing; I think the very innovative pairing from Six Test Kitchen was still fresh in Her mind; this was an enjoyable meal and a nice start to our road trip.

Partage
3839 Spring Mountain Rd.
Las Vegas, NV 89102

While having dessert, the Missus mentioning wanting to walk back to our hotel via the strip and the sweet young lady looked surprised and recommended we take an Uber. But of course the Missus wasn't having any of that……

And so, we walked down Spring Mountain Road and onto Las Vegas Boulevard. We were kid of freaked out at all the folks milling about maskless…….

It seems like Vegas, looked just like….well, the Vegas we remembered.

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We walked all the way to the MGM, before heading back to the hotel. Well, at least I got my walking done on this evening, right?

And tomorrow we were headed to Zion!

Thanks for stopping by!

Wormwood – A Quick Look

Over the years; I've made it a habit of visiting a place in San Diego multiple times before posting. I've always thought it only fair to try several items on the menu and that anyone can have an off day. On vacation or trips it's just not realistic to do that and really….when you're visiting a place you will probably only have one shot at it, right? And so, there have been many possible posts (Trust, Juniper & Ivy, Born and Raised come to mind) that have met the "recycle bin"…….and there have been many reasons why we wouldn't return with food not to our taste, terrible service, and price, key among those reasons. There have been some posts like my "never made the cut" or "COMC" posts and more recently during Covid my "visits BC" post….the actual one and done is at the end….can you guess where that is?

But times have changed…….Covid has changed things and of course, prices have gone up like crazy. Even if we like a place it doesn't mean we'll be returning in a reasonable time just based on price alone. 

And so, I thought I'd try and do a some posts on places we dined at recently; which haven't been relinquished to a folder for an extended amount of time. And you can tell me what you think of these.

Again, I have my reservations (no pun intended) about doing these…..but thought because of the Covid rollercoaster, prices and such, I'd just do some quick posts this week. Call it "a quick look" week.

I will reveal at the end if we plan to return in the future or not…..

Wormwood Q 01

Our visit to Wormwood was somewhat serendipitous. We had planned on dining elsewhere but our designated dining spot was a bit too busy for us. I had heard that Wormwood in the former Wormwood Q 02 location Jayne's Gastropub location was a rather difficult online reservation to get. We just decided to walk on over….and managed to get a one of the tables located in front of the restaurant. Yes, it was kinda windy and got pretty cold; but the young lady manning the host stand was a joy! She was a dog (and cat) lover and seemed to know most of the pooches that walked by….and gave us "heads up" on several……we had a blast dog watching.

The menu seemed interesting; kind of French influenced with an international flair……and we like this type of menu. 

While like the namesake of the restaurant indicates Wormwood specializes in Absinthe based cocktails and such. Though on this evening, neither the Missus nor I were in the mood…..
So we stuck to the food; starting with the "Champignons" – Basically Mushroom Tartletes ($14).

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These were very crisp and light, topped with Golden Thread Mushrooms, the tartlets resting on the potato puree. This was a bit light in the earthy-mushroom flavor department, but the crispness was quite enjoyable.

Next up; our favorite dish of the evening….the Missus is leery of ordering mussels at restaurants because many times the shellfish aren't cleaned well, over-cooked and tough, sandy, or taste a bit "off". In this case, the Moules and Merguez ($17) were done quite nicely.

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The Mussels were plump and tender, with a light briny-sweetness. The Missus loves Merguez and though there wasn't much of it in the Poblano Cream Sauce, what was there was tasty. The cream sauce was nicely balanced. The addition of preserved lemon added a nice savory-acidic tone that refreshed the palate.

The Confit de Canard ($25) had some potential which was squandered as the dish was very salty. In fact, since I make duck confit at home a lot,  Perhaps they weren't wiping the salt cure off the duck before cooking….or possibly….are they reusing the duck fat for cooking too many times?

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The texture of the potato gnocchi was perfect……but again, we really couldn't taste much except for salt…….and couldn't finish this.

I had been craving some beef tartare since returning from Paso Robles, so of course I ordered the Wagyu Tartare ($23).

Wormwood Q 06

We really didn't care for this at all. First, the chilled beef was placed on a hot bone and bone marrow……a no-no in my book. Second, the beef was chopped too coarsely chopped and was really tough. Third, the guajillo based sauce overwhelmed everything. 

Like I said, the young lady manning the host stand was wonderful. She even said to call or drop by for reservations as they reserve tables for those customers. As for us; well, I think you can figure that out. Maybe one day…….maybe…

Wormwood
4677 30th St.
San Diego, CA 92116

So there you go……in the "old normal" I would have never done this post……or perhaps, just maybe, waited a year or two and start over…….

What do you think?

Roadtrip (During Covid-19) – Revisits to Les Petites Canailles, the Alchemist Garden, and Spearhead Coffee (Paso Robles)

At the beginning of last October, the Missus and I decided to do yet another roadtrip……this time to Yosemite. We decided to make stops in Paso Robles at both ends of the trip. We were excited to revisit a couple of our favorites, Les Petites Canailles and the Alchemist Garden. I'll keep verbiage to a minimum since I've posted on these places several times already. LPC Rev 02

We started the evening at Les Petites Canailles and this time were seated indoors. Things were spaced out quite nicely and we felt comfortable with the set-up.

Sadly, the Rabbit Terrine we had enjoyed so much on our previous visit was no longer on the menu.

And overall, this meal did not quite hit all of the "high notes" as the last time we had visited.

Still, LPC makes one of my favorite versions of Beef Tartare, served at the perfect temperature, great balance in flavors and textures.

Still a winnah!

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The Spanish Octopus was not quite as good this time around as it was on the the tough side.

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I was interested in the pasta dish since the conchiglie, basically shell pasta was made locally by Etto. The texture of the pasta was perfect and it was dressed well. Sadly, the pistachio pesto was way too mild and there just wasn't enough acidity brought on by the sun dried tomato. 

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We would however, drop by Etto's shop in Tin City on our way back and bought some of their pasta.

The Mushrooms en Persillade with confit egg yolk was fairly good….though it needed a bit more salt and seasoning in our mind.

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The Leeks a la Plancha was quite good, as the leeks were nicely charred, bringing out the herbaceous sweetness, the Espelette Pepper added a nice smokiness and just the lightest touch of heat; we actually wished there was more. Loved the mild sweetness, nutty – butteriness, and distinct flavor the pine nuts brought to this dish…..which it surely would have added to the pasta dish.

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Overall, I enjoyed this meal more than the Missus (I could have that beef tartare weekly)…….I'm not sure we'll be returning here for a while.

Les Petites Canailles
1215 Spring St.
Paso Robles, CA 93446

Of course our next stop was the Alchemist Garden….it was our third visit and it did not disappoint.

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While the Missus got one of the cocktails off the menu……I wanted something custom made….so, I asked for an Old Fashioned, mentioning I like smoky tones….and the Mixologist was off to the races.

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He torched some sage and then covered it to get a more smoky flavor and made me an amazing Old Fashioned.

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I guess the Missus really wasn't too satisfied with our meal LPC….She ordered some fries; which were pretty good.

AG Rev 05 IMG_3660  Which meant that I could have another cocktail. This time the gentleman had something else up his sleeve. He asked me if I'd ever had a "Clear Old Fashioned"….I told him that I'd heard of it; but had never had one…….so….we were then off to the races!

He explained making the cocktail to me while putting it together. He took his time trying to finds the perfect ice cube; saying that "it had to be clear enough that after stirring a bit, it would be transparent when the cocktail was served"!

He told me that in his opinion Rosemary was the perfect match for this cocktail and set off to smoke some for the drink.

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And yes, it's difficult to make out the ice cube when the drink was served.

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Man, these folks are artists……….

The Alchemists' Garden
1144 Pine St.
Paso Robles, CA 93446

The next morning; while I went to refuel the car, the Missus went across the street to get us some coffee at Spearhead Coffee.

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The Missus got Her pour over and I a cold brew and were we ready to hit the road.

Spearhead Coffee
619 12th St.
Paso Robles, CA 93446

There's something we really enjoy about Paso Robles…the vibe, the people….the sense of humor and artsiness…..

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Thanks for stopping by!

After Waiting Almost Two Years….is it still “Happy Hour” at Et Voila?

Last week, we finally did it, after waiting almost two years, we decided to return to Et Voila for Happy Hour. The place had been a Happy Hour favorite of our for years; and while they they did takeout for a period, it was never the same. We picked a day early in the week and arrived right at 430 to minimize contact. The place was empty and the Owner, Ludo was so happy to see us. Since this was Happy Hour, we sat in the bar area; which they've opened up and put screens up, and also dividers between pairs of seats. Just two other couples arrived during our time at Et Voila, one pair for HH and the other dining in.

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The Missus started with a glass of wine and I got the Huckleberry Bourbon ($12 at Happy Hour)

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A bit weaker than I recalled, but still fine.

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We ordered our usual for Happy Hour……….

The Beignet de Champignons ($10 during HH) were perfect; hot, nicely fried, perfectly salted.

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Crisp on the outside, creamy – earthy finish. 

The Missus got Her Raviolis aux Champignons ($13 during HH).

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We've had occasion when this dish is a bit too sweet for us…and my goodness, they are really loving the foam these days. But this was well done, a hint of truffle, saltiness from Parmesan cheese, earthiness of the mushrooms.

And we also got the Terrine de Porc et Pistaches ($11 during HH).

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Rustic porkiness; a hint of sweetness, this really made me miss Paris and our favorite charcuterie restaurant.

So, did Et Voila deliver? Yes, they sure did. It had been so long….there were moments when the Missus and I took bites of food, looked at each other and laughed out loud. This felt….just so normal and right. Something that had been missing from our lives for a while now. I'm not sure when we'll be doing this again, but I wasn't having those thoughts on this evening….I was just enjoying the moment.

Et Voilà!
3015 Adams Ave
San Diego, CA 92116
Current Hours:
Tues – Thurs 430pm – 9pm
Fri – Sat 430pm – 930pm
Sunday 430pm – 8pm
Closed on Mondays
Happy Hour – Served at the Bar Only
Tues – Thurs 430pm – 730pm
Fri – Sat 430pm – 6pm

We hope all of you are doing well!

Paris (Before Covid) – Restaurant ERH and Golden Promise Whiskey Bar

Yet another quick pre-Covid travel post. 

We returned from our little day trip to Chartres and took a nap and rested a bit. For dinner, I chose a restaurant close to where we were staying. We'd be flying out to Tel Aviv the next morning and just wanted something close by. That didn't mean it would be just another dinner though. I had made reservations at Michelin starred ERH restaurant. The restaurant as basically two blocks from where we were staying.

Noting that ERH shares an address with a sake bar and a whiskey bar, we arrived early for our 730 reservation; and notified the restaurant that we'd be having a aperitif at the Whiskey Bar named Golden Promise.

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We each enjoyed a cocktail whilst waiting for our table.

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Soon enough our table was ready.

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The restaurant is very low-keyed and was were really interested in the tasting menu since the chef, like many of our previous fine dining meals in Paris was Japanese, Keita Kitamura. IN fact, ERH stands for eaux (water), riz (rice), and homme (man), as a homage to the three necessary ingredients for sake.

I'll try to keep this post brief from this point forward.

The amuse:

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Jerusalem artichoke with Ikura was amazing! The Parmesan Crisp was nice, the potato cream tasted like taro….

As was the monkfish fritter with sate and basil.

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The scallop was so very sweet.

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The veal tartare was also quite good.

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That radish and haricot vert cream just blew me away.

The Foie Gras dish was served in a novel manner.

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In a pastry of sorts, with mango and beets to add some interesting textural and flavor contrasts.

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The "Bar de Ligne" (Eropena Bass) with Oyster dish was a bit underwhelming.

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Really salty, the persillade (parsley) sauce not really adding much to the dish.

The Carnard de Chaland with Chou Vert, which seemed to be Brussel Sprouts rather than cabbage was quite nice.

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Great complexity, sweet – sour – bitter.

And the Missus enjoyed the desserts.

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A very nice experience; one which we'd gladly do again.

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ERH
Golden Promise Whisky Bar
11 Rue Tiquetonne
75002 Paris, France

As I had my usual beer before sleeping, I again thought about how lucky I was to be able to have these experiences.

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The next day we were up early and caught the RER to CDG………

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Next up…Tel Aviv!

Thanks for stopping by!

Chartres (Before Covid) – Chartres Cathedral and Lunch at La Table du Marche

Here's another quick pre-Covid travel post. 

On the second day of our short visit to Paris, the Missus wanted to explore a bit. We had visited Versailles on a previous trip, so this time around I thought we'd check out Chartres and the Cathedral, often said to be the best Gothic Cathedral in Europe.

Getting there was quite easy from Gare Montparnasse.

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And it seems that everyone is invited to take the one hour ride to Chartres.

And once there; well, it's easy to find your way to the Cathedral.

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You really can't miss it.

While walking to the Cathedral we passed this amazing mural.

IMG_3111 (2) IMG_3116 (2)  Doing some research, I found that the mural is of Jean Moulin a hero of the French Resistance in World War II who lived in Chartres. Read more about him in the link to the Wikipedia page above.

The Cathedral is indeed grand. It is said that there were four to five churches on this spot, dating back to the 4th century!

There is quite a bit to see if you have the time. We just decided to stroll around and enjoy some of the highlights.

There's a worn statue in Place de la Cathedrale. It is of Fulbert of Chartres who was Bishop of the Cathedral when it burned in 1020. Fulbert devoted his time to rebuilding the Cathedral which was completed around 1145.

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There are beautiful Rose Windows over every entrance.

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The Church is dedicated to Mary and there are signs of that everywhere.

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IMG_3140 (2) IMG_3163  Many pilgrims come to the church to see the Black Madonna (above). There's some really good information on why the Madonna is black here. But you might say, the Madonna pictured above isn't black. Well, several years back the Cathedral was part of a huge restoration project and all those years of soot and such was removed from the statue; it was very controversial to say the least.

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A few blocks from the Cathedral is the Marché aux Légumes – the produce market. And since it was Saturday, we took some time to check ot out.

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It's always fun visiting these places and watching the locals go about their daily lives…..

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By this point we were getting a bit hungry. Right at the edge of the market is La Table du Marché – the Market Table. So we thought why not?

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The staff was very friendly and welcoming. At places like this, it's always helpful to check out the plat du jour….and we ended up ordering two of the daily specials.

The friendly woman working was delighted that the Missus ordered the Andouillette, which She had loved in Lyon.

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While not quite at that level; it was literally bursting with offal-y goodness.

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I was thrilled to see Boudin Blanc as a daily special.

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And while, like the Missus, this wasn't quite as good a my favorite, it was quite mild, but nicely sautéed and I enjoyed the dressing on the greens.

The service was very warm; the prices, since we're used to Paris prices seemed like a bargain; 10 Euros for the Andouillette and just 7 for the Boudin Blanc!!!

La Table du Marché
11 Place Billard
28000 Chartres, France

We left satisfied and ready for a nap when we returned to Paris!

Paris (Before Covid) – Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Terroirs d’Avenir, Fou de Pâtisserie, and Dinner at Fleur de Pavé

*** Yet another condensed post of our trip in November, 2019    

As we strolled thru Passage du Grand Cerf, it really looked like the Missus still wanted to explore. And so, by the time we hit Rue Bachaumont, where this pooch was having a great time fetching the Frisbee, I decided to make another stop.

IMG_3055 (2)  IMG_3060 We pass the Church of Saint Eustache on a daily basis when we're in the area and had never visited, so I thought this might be a good time to check it out. There was also something I wanted to see.

The church took a century to build, from 1532 – 1632 and contains one of the largest organs in France; the nave is humongous!

The interior of the church is quite grand and I'd read about the stained glass and had one set specifically in mind.

The church is located right next to Les Halles, which was Paris's central market for almost 800 years. So, of course they would be benefactors of the church. In fact the professional pork butchers association, the "Corporation des Charcutiers" has their own chapel. When was the last time you saw sausages and a pig in stained glass?

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This sculpture by Raymond Mason commemorates the closing of Les Halles; it's titled "Le départ des fruits et légumes du coeur de Paris, le 28 février 1969" ("The departure of fruits and vegetables from the heart of Paris, February 28, 1969").

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There's beautiful stained glass and some beautiful art work at Saint-Eustache; we'll definitely visit again one day…..hopefully.

The Missus really enjoyed this stop and wanted to keep on going; so we ended up walking all the way to Sacré-Cœur!

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And enjoyed the view.

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We were getting a bit hungry on the walk down and decided to make a couple of stops.

On Rue du Nil, along with the very popular Frenchie empire, is a group of shops which includes a cheesemonger, a butcher, and of course a boulangerie called Terroirs d’Avenir. So we made a croissant stop at the bakery.

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We then headed back down to Rue Montorgueil and to a place I'd read about named Fou de Pâtisserie.

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This specialty shop is a conglomeration of curated pastries form some of Paris's most well known pastry chefs like Pierre Hermé.

The pastries looked beautiful and of course the Missus had a difficult time choosing just one.

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But She finally made a decision and we had some tea which we took to one of the two small tables outside.

While the croissant fell short; nice texture, but the butter-salt ratio wasn't quite to our taste…..

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L'Equinoxe. So, here's another place I'm sure we'll return to.

Boulangerie-Pâtisserie Terroirs d'Avenir
3 Rue du Nil
75002 Paris, France

Fou de Pâtisserie
45 Rue Montorgueil
75002 Paris, France

After this we took a well earned break (nap). For dinner I had selected a restaurant that had just opened during the summer of 2019 and had created a bit of a buzz; Fleur de Pavé. Folks sang praises of this restaurant; the chef Sylvain Sendra had garnered a Michelin Star at his former restaurant, Les Itinéraires which he closed in 2017. He and his wife spent the next, almost two years travelling the globe and exploring various cuisines. The result of which is Fleur de Pavé. The restaurant is also very vegetable friendly as it gets much of it's produce from Asafumi Yamashita a farmer who only sells his produce to certain selected chefs of his choosing.

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We were really looking forward to this meal. The restaurant was lovely, the staff very courteous, though service was quite slow. It actually took 30 minutes after we finished our meal and a "L'addition, s'il vous plaît" from me to get our check. Of course, the place is new; and as of 2020 they have received a Michelin Star, so I'm figuring they've straightened that out.

We decided to order form the menu and things started out with a trio of amuse:

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From top to bottom; a Parmesian Tart with Tzaziki and Carrot; Blakc Rice Crisp with Labneh and Eggplant Caviar; and the thinly sliced Cauliflower with Madagascar Vanilla and Salt….which looked lovely and had a wonderful texture, but was a bit too sweet for our taste.

Up next was the "Scottish Bread", which looked like Parker House rolls…….but was a nice fluffy brioche.

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We were excited to try the Salade du Jardin M Yamashita, which was topped with aged Parmesan. 

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The dressing could have used more acidity.

The Kabocha Carbonara with Mimolette sounded interesting.

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Like other dishes; this was on the sweeter end of things and there wasn't enough textural contrasts for us….the dish just seemed to be mushy.

Our favorite dish of the night – the Scallop Carpaccio with Oyster Sorbet and Sea Urchin – so many complex flavors.

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That worked together well.

Though the Roasted Monkfish with Pig Ear Tabbouleh and Red Wine Sauce was a bit much.

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The Missus did enjoy the dessert and the wine pairing though.

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Overall an interesting dinner; the place seems to be trying really hard and the presentations were wonderful……and I guess that paid off with a Michelin Star.

Fleur de Pavé
5 Rue Paul Lelong
75002 Paris, France

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Paris (Before Covid) – Revisits to Jefrey’s and Boulangerie Régis Colin and Lunch at Artisan de la Truffe BHV

**** I know that "FOY" Kerri has been kind of looking forward to these posts; so here goes

Man, November of 2019 seems so long ago….. I've kind of held back on these posts; but thought I'd just better get them done. I'm going to do rather condensed posts. This was a trip the Missus was really looking forward to; Her favorite city; Paris, travel to Israel, Jordan, and Provence. And though it didn't end up quite the way we planned (more on that later) it was still quite memorable.

We arrived in Paris at around 730pm, which, since we'd been to Paris a couple of times already wasn't a big deal. We caught the RER from CDG and got off at Les Halles. We were staying at the same apartment that we'd booked for our last stay in Paris, so we knew the drill. How to pick up the keys; where the apartment was located, etc……

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We'd eaten on our flight to Paris; but really wanted a nightcap; so we headed off to a cocktail bar we enjoyed on previous visits; Jefrey's.

**** Jefrey's has closed

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They were having some special cocktails during this week; so we tried a few…..

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And of course I enjoy Monkey Shoulder; so we enjoyed ourselves. Folks here are very welcoming and since it was a Thursday night the place wasn't overly busy.

Jefrey's
14 Rue Saint Sauveur
75002 Paris France

We enjoy Paris at the end of November……

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As the Christmas season swings into gear.

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The next morning I was up early as usual. The Missus wanted a croissant from a place we had enjoyed during our last trip; Boulangerie Régis Colin, so I headed on out.

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**** Boulangerie Régis Colin has closed

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Sadly, the croissant was disappointing this time around. Unevenly baked, lacking in butter, and too doughy…..

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Boulangerie Régis Colin
53 Rue Montmartre
75002 Paris, France

After having our light "breakfast" the Missus needed Her caffiene (and people watching fix), so we headed on down the street to Café Montorgueil for our Café Allonge.

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And to check out folks heading out for the day and doing their "morning stuffs"…….this pooch was focused on something in the gutter…must have smelled good.

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Café Montorgueil
55 Rue Montorgueil
75002 Paris, France

And then we headed out….with no plan, we just wanted to wander around and take in Paris. You know, the Flâneur/Flâneuse thing. We headed up Rue Saint-Denis to start things out. I'm sure you've heard of the Arc de Triomphe, but did you know there's one located on Boulevard St Denis. The Porte Saint-Denis was originally the site of a gate of the city walls of the city. The arch was built in 1672 by François Blondel to honor and celebrate the King Louis XIV's victories in the Rhine and in Franche-Comté.

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From here we wandered over to the 4th and then the 3rd Arrondissements…….

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Until we were getting a bit hungry. Since we had enjoyed eating at Maison de la Truffe during an earlier visit, I thought we'd hit up Artisan de la Truffe located in the BHV Department Store.

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We got the Foie Gras with Truffle along with the Charcuterie with Truffle "Planche". For several reasons, we didn't enjoy this as much. The temperature of the foie gras, cheese, and charcurterie were too cold, the bread seemed to be getting a bit "old"….it just didn't do it for us. But hey, we did get enough calories to keep us going for the rest of the day, right?

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Artisan de la Truffe (in the BHV Department Store – 3rd Floor)
52 rue de Rivoli
75004 Paris, France

From here we headed off and just enjoyed the city…..

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And of course we had to see what was going on at Notre Dame……there didn't seem to be much happening on this day.

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We eventually headed back up to the area where we were staying. While walking thru Passage du Grand Cerf…..

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I had an idea for another stop…….

Stay Tuned!

Roadtrip (During Covid-19) – Returning to Cambria and a Revisit to Madeline’s

Just trying to finish up posts on our May road trip here. 

After having a wonderful dinner at Les Petites Canailles in Paso Robles, then enjoying a nice walk the following morning at Montana de Oro State Park, we headed to our next destination. We had enjoyed Cambria so much during our November road trip that we decided to return for an evening. 

It was a bit early for check-in when we arrived, so I headed over to the East Village where the Missus "caught up" on some shopping at the charming little shops.

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Not sure why this pooch was so tuckered out, but he didn't move a muscle as customers came and went……it was quite amusing.

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We decided to pick up some snacks for lunch and headed over to Soto's True Earth Market.

IMG_9057  IMG_9067 It's a lovely little market with everything from sandwiches and cheese, to local produce and snacks. Folks were very friendly and we enjoyed the little shop…..I even purchased a shopping bag.

Soto's True Earth Market
2244 Main St.
Cambria, CA 93428

I had noticed tables and seating arranged outside the charming Cambria Historical Museum which was closed due to the pandemic.

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It was a beautiful day, so we decided to have our snacks here.

IMG_9058 IMG_9062  Though we did ask permission from the local "security detail".

Soon enough I received a text message letting me know our room was ready. Just like Paso Robles, we were doing a repeat stay….we had really enjoyed the El Colibri Hotel & Spa on our previous visit to Cambria, the staff at El Colibri are very welcoming and friendly, we enjoyed the quiet location as well, just a short walk to the West Village where I had made dinner reservations at yet another "repeat" location. We had enjoyed our meal at Madeline's during our November road trip, so the Missus and I decided for another visit. It was just as good….so I won't dwell too much on the details and leave you mostly with photos.

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The Missus loves the scallops and the "Spanish Octopus", but also really enjoyed the seasonal salad……. Which had….a bacon vinaigrette.

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So guess who had to make bacon vinaigrette when we got home? Actually, it was pretty easy as our Server asked the chef about the recipe…..we didn't get a recipe; but got a ingredient list.

They even split our main; the Aubergine Gratin without us having to ask.

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The weakest dish of the meal as for some reason the bechamel really didn't bring out the flavors of the eggplant…….

But that's ok as the other dishes were wonderful.

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And the Missus enjoyed the Chocolate Truffle Mousse Cake for dessert, while I enjoyed a nice Tawny Port.

IMG_9080 IMG_9081  And we got the same lovely outdoor table as on our previous visit. When I mentioned that we enjoyed this table, we were instructed to request "Patio 1" the next time we visit. And….I think there will be a next time. There's something about the vibe and staff that we really enjoy here.

Madeline's Restaurant & Wine Tasting Room
788 Main St.
Cambria, CA 93428

We finished up dinner and walked back to the hotel. Since this was at the end of May, the sun wouldn't set until after 8pm. So, like we did on our previous visit to Cambria we took the short walk down to Shamel Community Park and took in the beautiful sunset.

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IMG_9090 IMG_9096  A perfect end to our day. Back at the room, I had a brew as a nightcap as I will often do on trips. It always gives me time to think about and ponder how blessed we are…….especially during these times to have our health, each other, and even though we'd obviously love to be in Paris, I've come to appreciate a part of California that I think is vastly underrated.

Thanks for stopping by!