Paris – Petit Palais and Dinner at Onii-San

Our train from Strasbourg was on time and we got into Paris-Est right around 1230. From there it was a snap getting back to our apartment.

IMG_4650

After two nights at various Christmas Markets and watching me enjoy myself whether it was doing the flanuer thing, spending the morning on Rue Montorgueil, or just deciding where I was getting my morning croissant from, the Missus was ready to get into "shopping mode".

And so we unpacked, put in a load of laundry, and headed on out.

IMG_4651

Passing thru some very familiar places.

IMG_4652

IMG_4654

And places we had just recently gotten to know.

IMG_4656

Past Place Venodome.

IMG_4661

All dressed up for the season.

IMG_4659

Down Rue Saint-Honore.

IMG_4665

The Missus knew the way by heart.

IMG_4664

As before, we were treated like royalty at our destination with a personal shopper, some light refreshment……

IMG_4663

And as several times before, we left, the Missus happy, our credit card not so much….but such is life.

IMG_4680

Chanel
31 Rue Cambon
75001 Paris, France

We then headed out, with no objective in sight, just enjoying the day and came across the Petit Palais.

IMG_4670

Life many of the places we visited on this trip, we had passed by the Petit Palais many times and finally decided to visit. Free admission made things a lot more attractive as well. The Petit Palais is an art museum, housed in a beautiful building that was built for the 1900 Paris Exposition.

IMG_4673

It houses many several well known works and also temporary exhibitions (of which there is admission).

IMG_4671

We were here on a whim, so had no agenda in mind. We'd just be wandering and enjoying things.

IMG_4676

IMG_4693

There's a grand portrait of Sarah Bernhardt.

IMG_4683

It is by Georges Clairin and is said to be a favorite of the Actress who kept it all her life. It was donated by her son after her death.

Being that we're in the Les Halles area a good amount of time during our stays, we enjoyed this work.

IMG_4685

Which captures the busy, chaotic place that "the Belly of Paris" was during the 19th century.

We also noticed folks actually painting as well.

IMG_4687

It seems like this is an art group or class enjoying Petit Palais.

IMG_4695

We got some tea and coffee and settled in the Terrasse and just enjoyed the place.

IMG_4679

IMG_4678

Petit Palais
Av. Winston Churchill
75008 Paris, France

We then started to head on back to the apartment; doing our share of lèche-vitrine – window shopping (literally translated as "window licking" in French) along the way. Though not everyone wanted us "licking their windows" it seems!

IMG_4700

The Missus wanted something for le goûter (tea time) and we decided to stop at Fou de Pâtisserie on Rue Montorgueil again.

IMG_4702

She chose the La Tarte Citron.

IMG_4705

It was a "tart" tarte indeed, not overly sweet and the Missus enjoyed it.

Fou de Pâtisserie
45 Rue Montorgueil
75002 Paris, France

When it as time for dinner, well, a few days previous, we passed what looked sort of like a modern Japanese restaurant. The tiny place was packed and I cracked up at the name "Onii-San" which means "older brother" in Japanese. So, we walked on in and made reservations for dinner.

IMG_4728

We were welcomed and seated. Looking at the menu; it became apparent that this was a pseudo-Izakaya, featuring some interesting dishes. The staff; except for one person we saw in the kitchen was French, so this was going to be an interesting meal. I need to apologize for the photos as the lighting in the place was quite flakey.

We placed our order and soon enough, the dishes started arriving.

First off, the Tempuras de Legumes – Vegetable Tempura (14€/$15.25US).

IMG_4714

The batter was a bit too thick and heavy for tempura, the dashi was actually pretty good, nice savory tones. The vegetables were too hard.

The Shiitakes (15€/$16.35US) was interesting.

IMG_4716

There were only four halves of mushrooms in this…like 2 Shiitakes! The wakame cream was kinda weird in flavor, mildly savory-oceany, but also milky. There was a interesting bitterness to the dish. We later found out that there sansho pepper in this. The ikura were actually trout caviar and were quite good; salty, with a sweet finish.

The Aubergine (Eggplant – 15€/$16.35US) was another con-"fusion" dish.

IMG_4717

The eggplant was on the undercooked side for our taste. We liked the blanched watercress as it had a pleasant bitterness that went well with the sweet-soy-wasabi flavors in the sauce. Not sure about the cheese though as it just didn't seem to belong here.

Things took a nice turn for the better with the Tuna Tartare (26€/$28.40US).

IMG_4719

The tuna was chopped nicely; it almost melted in your mouth; the shiso really enhanced the dish as did the trout caviar The ponzu sauce added that savory-sour-tangy component and the wasabi cream added a nice richness. We weren't sure about the brioche, but this seemed more like Japanese milk bread and was quite good.

Speaking of Milk Bread, I saw Toro Sando (26€/$28.40US) on the menu and just had to order it. It was our favorite dish of te evening.

IMG_4723

Initially, I took a look at the fish and it sure didn't look like toro; but it was surprisingly tender. The breading, while not the best, still had a bit of crunch. The bread was fairly fluffy, buttery, with a mild sweetness. The wasabi mayo was a perfect match and the ponzu shallot worked so well with seafood. This was a surprisingly good sando!

IMG_4725 IMG_4727  On an interesting note; while searching for addresses I found that Onii-San opened a Sando shop named Ototo last years as well! Makes perfect sense.

While this wasn't a perfect meal, it was an interesting fusion, sometimes "Con"- fusion. While we've been used to French cuisine with Japanese touches; this place went in the opposite direction, with interesting results. Such is the ever changing state of food in Paris!

Onii-San
82 Rue des Archives
75003 Paris, France

Our accommodation was just 2 long blocks away. We passed the "very blue" Mairie de Paris Centre, the "Mayor's Office" along the way.

IMG_4729

IMG_4731

We had a day trip set for the next day, so it was off to bed early for us.

IMG_4726

Thanks for stopping by!

Big Island – Tex Drive In (Honokaa), a Revisit to Suisan (Hilo), and Liliʻuokalani Gardens

After enjoying our visit to the Waimea Town Market, we packed up, checked out, and headed back to Hilo. We could take our time since our flight wasn't until 230pm and decided to stop at Tex Drive In in Honokaa. It had been a bajillion years since we'd been here and decided it was time to try out the malasadas one more time.

IMG_5666

We were surprised that it wasn't very busy as this was a Saturday.

IMG_5665

We just ordered one plain malasada.

IMG_5667

IMG_5669  IMG_5670 It was as we remembered; a bit too dense and bready for our taste. But it was fun just to be here again after all these years.

Tex Drive-In
5-690 Pakalana St.
Honokaa, HI 96727

From here it was a clear shot down the Belt Road. We had been in these parts many times so we really didn't bother to stop until our "lunch" destination. You know what the Missus wanted, right? Yep, it was Suisan one more time! In other words "hana hou"!

IMG_5673

This time we got a plate; with the Ahi Shoyu and the Ahi Mango Habanero, a half pound of the Ahi Limu, and a Half pound of the Spicy Ahi.

IMG_5683

The quality of the fish in the Shoyu Ahi was much better this time; but still not the best. The ahi habanero was quite buttery and there was some decent spice and salt. I never knew that the Missus had never had Ling Hing Mango before! She just loved the stuff! The rice was a bit on the dry side but passable.

There was much more limu in the ahi limu this time around and the fish was nicely salted and tender. This was quite "old school" delicious.

IMG_5690

The spicy ahi was good as well. Mild spice, the fish tender.

IMG_5691

Suisan Company Limited
93 Lihiwai St
Hilo, HI 96720 

We were lucky and scored the bench right in back of Suisan.

IMG_5682

IMG_5694

IMG_5698

We still had a bit of time on our hands after lunch, so we decided to cross the street and check out Liliʻuokalani Gardens. Man, we hadn't been here in years!

IMG_5700

IMG_5701

The original 5 acres was dedicated by Queen Liliʻuokalani to be a public park in 1907. The park was increased in size to 17 acres in 1917.

IMG_5702

IMG_5705

The park was then dedicated to the first Japanese immigrants to the island and has claimed to be the largest Edo-style garden outside of Japan.

IMG_5710

There are lovely arching bridges over fish ponds, pagodas, torii, stone lanterns, and a wonderful view of Hilo Bay…..

IMG_5713

Funny thing, even though I've been here several times, I never knew the history of the park until after my return from this trip.

IMG_5719

You can find even more info here.

Soon enough, it was time to fill up the rental car, and head to the airport.

IMG_5719

I'm hoping we won't have to wait another decade before returning!

IMG_5692

Road Trip – Lunch at Vinaigrette, San Felipe de Neri Catholic Church, and a Revisit to Kitsune ABQ (Albuquerque)

After spending the morning at Petroglyph National Monument, we headed back to our accommodations to freshen up. It was getting kinda warm so we wanted something on the lighter side. I had Vinaigrette on my list during our previous visit to Santa Fe and recalled that they had a ABQ location as well. Turns out that the restaurant was just a 15 minute walk from the hotel. Plus, we'd be walking thru Old Town and could take our time and explore a bit on the walk back.

IMG_8318

The place was almost full when we arrived, but we got the last table outdoor table.

IMG_8316

We were glad to get that table as the only outdoor seating still available was this…..I wonder if folks actually sit here?

IMG_8308

As you can tell by the name, Vinaigrette specializes in various categories of salads; savory, sweet, "balanced", and so forth, along with some sandwiches and a few sides and soup.

I wanted something refreshing, so I ordered a concoction called the "Pepino", which featured cucumber and lime juice, along with club soda.

IMG_8309

This was quite refreshing and not overly sweet.

We also ordered the Kale Fritters.

IMG_8311

We enjoyed the crunchiness and earthy tones of the fritters, which went surprisingly well with the Sriracha Aioli. It was a tad on the salty side of things, but was not a bad dish overall.

The Missus got the "Omega".

IMG_8313

This was mostly lettuce and really didn't have as much kale as the Missus would have liked. She thought the toasted pine nuts would be great in a salad, though it really clashed with the provided Blue Cheese Vinaigrette. The avocado was just one small piece. This salad needed more acidity added to really balance out all those greens.

I got the Spinach Mushroom which was a much better choice for our tastes.

IMG_8315

The earthy, slightly sweet sauteed mushrooms, with savory bacon, and a slightly sweet-sour honey-balsamic vinaigrette was a nice combination. I wish there were a bit more onions for pungency and more boiled eggs to keep the Missus happy, but this was not bad.

The staff was very friendly, the crowd….well, as you can figure, very hipster-healthy-ish. Still, we didn't want anything too heavy and this did the trick….at least for me.

Vinaigrette
828 Central Ave. SW
Albuquerque, NM 87104

After lunch we took our time strolling back to the hotel. There seemed to be more businesses open on this day, but things were still really quiet.

IMG_8321

IMG_8325

We enjoyed wandering thru the various patios.

IMG_8324

There was a definite charm to this place…..

IMG_8320

While we had stopped to look at the Cottonwood Madonna the previous day, we had just walked past the San Felipe de Neri Catholic Church.

IMG_8334

There has been a church on this site since Albuquerque was founded. The original church collapsed in 1792 and San Felipe de Neri Church was founded in 1793.

IMG_8328

There's a museum and gift shop located in the Sister Blandina Convent onsite.

IMG_8330

IMG_8331

IMG_8335

And of course the Cottonwood Madonna.

IMG_8337

And if you want to read even more about the Cottonwood Madonna, you can read more here.

As interesting as San Felipe de Neri Catholic Church was, I found something even more interesting down this patio.

IMG_8347

As we were looking at various shops, something caught my eye.

IMG_8341

So I walked on in.

IMG_8342

It was a beautiful little chapel.

IMG_8343

This is the Chapel of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

IMG_8344

It has an interesting story and is even said to be haunted.

We enjoyed strolling around Old Town.

IMG_8351

We got back to the hotel and relaxed until it was time to head out for dinner. I had made reservations at a nearby Wine Bar & Bistro, but when we walked over our reservations our reservations were MIA. The place was quite busy and we didn't want to wait so we decided to head on back to Kitsune.

IMG_8354

And ordered our food and had a seat in the back patio this time.

IMG_8355

I found out that the cocktail that was made for me the night before was called the "Autumn" and featured Blue Corn Whiskey.

IMG_8360

Smoky, but not overly sweet.

Of course we got the Karaage.

IMG_8359

Which was just a good as the previous night.

And we also got the Pork Belly Rice "Bowl".

IMG_8357

The rice on this evening was much better than what we had the previous night; though I'm not sure about that mayo. The pork belly was a bit more chewy than I like, but the seaoning and sauce was pretty good; not overly sweet. The pickled onions handled the palate cleansing duties well.

Not bad for two nights in a row.

Kitsune ABQ
524 Romero St. NW
Albuquerque, NM 87104

We then walked on back to the hotel. On the way back, we stopped at a shop and got some liquid refreshment and a snack.

IMG_8367

And sat on the porch and watched the action below.

IMG_8363

IMG_8368

We went to sleep early as we'd be headed out to Pecos National Historical Park , then it was off to Santa Fe in the morning!

Road Trip – Old Town and the Cottonwood Madonna, Dinner at Kitsune ABQ, and Petroglyph National Monument

After heading out from Prescott and stopping for lunch at the Turquoise Room, we made our way to our next stop; Albuquerque. Though our final destination for this road trip was Santa Fe and Taos, we wanted to take our time, do some hikes, and explore some National Monuments/Parks if possible. I thought stopping in Albuquerque might make for a nice break. I decided on staying at the Hotel Chaco as it was close to the I-40, Old Town, and Petroglyph National Monument. We really enjoyed the hotel, ample parking, a nice patio, comfortable rooms. We got to the hotel early and our room was ready! We unpacked and decided to walk on over to the Old Town.

This was a Wednesday in May and the Old Town, which was basically a block away was fairly quiet.

IMG_8250

IMG_8251

The Old Town seemed much larger than San Diego's version and dates back to 1706! It was fun walking around the area.

IMG_8257

We noticed this church along the way.

IMG_8253

This is San Felipe de Neri Church, which we'd visit in detail the next day. What really caught our attention was this.

IMG_8256

After doing a bit of research this is what I found, this is known as the Cottonwood Madonna. It was supposedly carved by a parishioner of San Felipe de Neri in the 1970's. And according to the story, he died upon completion of this creation! You gotta love these stories!

The one place that did seem quite busy was the Old Town Plaza.

IMG_8255

One of the reasons I chose our hotel was that the Sawmill Market, a well regarded food hall was right across the street.

IMG_8258

Sadly, as we walked thru the stands, the Missus could not find anyplace She wanted to eat at…..

IMG_8259

So it was back to square one…..

We decided to head on back to Old Town and we came across a bar called The Taproom.

IMG_8353

What was interesting was that the bar was at 524 Romero Street, but there was also a 524 1/2 Romero Street. And the sign said "Kitsune", which caught our attention.

IMG_8260

So we headed on in. 

IMG_8354

Hmmm……I'm guessing that this is, or was the kitchen for the bar? The menu was an amalgamation of Asian fusion dishes…you know Kimchi Fried Rice, Karaage, Thai Fries…..you get the idea. Well, since we were here and there weren't many choices we were interested in, why not? So, we went ahead and placed our order and paid. Then headed on over to the bar and ordered some cocktails.

IMG_8273

Then had a seat at one of the tables. We enjoyed our cocktails.

IMG_8264

IMG_8272

Funny thing was….well a great thing actually is that we gave the bartender our taste preferences and he just made cocktails for us! And they were quite good.

Soon our food arrived.

Starting with the "Loaded Fries".

IMG_8267

The fries were quite good, crisp outside, creamy inside. The roasted pork was quite tender and nicely seasoned, the sweet-salty, slightly teriyaki-ish sauce went nicely with the pork. The only thing that felt out of place was the cheese as both the sour-palate cleansing pickled onions, a gastropub standard did well. 

The best item of the night was the Chicken Karaage.

IMG_8270

Crisp deliciousness, the chicken thighs had been nicely marinated and was very moist. I enjoyed the addition of Togarashi and is gave things a bit of zip and the mayo did a nice job of cooling things down. The seasoning was perfect on this; a great balance between salty and a hint of sweetness, with a touch of pungency from garlic and ginger.

The Fried Rice was decent. 

IMG_8271

The rice was a bit undercooked though evenly coated with a kimchi base. Of course the addition of Spam and that sunny side egg (which the Missus immediately poached) didn't hurt things in the least. The gochujang was a bit of overkill, but did add to the presentation.

This was pretty good bar food and we were pleasantly surprised, and after having a busy day, would end up here again the next day.

Kitsune ABQ
524 Romero St. NW
Albuquerque, NM 87104

We took a nice after dinner stroll in the really quiet Old Town.

IMG_8274

There only a few businesses open.

IMG_8275

IMG_8276

Back at the room, we just sat, relaxed, and enjoyed the view from our patio.

IMG_8280

We woke the next morning, grabbed some coffee, and then headed out to Petroglyph National Monument. We drove to the Visitor's Center which is actually several miles from any of the trails. We picked up a map and decided to do two of the trails; the Rinconada Canyon Trail, which is a easy loop trail, followed by Boca Negra Canyon.

Among the remnants of an eruption from over 150,000 years ago there are symbols carved onto basalt boulders along the trails.

The trails are quite easy' at least the one's we took.

 

IMG_8285

And things start out quite stark and you'll wonder if you've found the correct trail.

But soon enough, you'll come across basalt boulders.

IMG_8286

And soon you'll start getting a glimpse…..

IMG_8291

As to the age of the carvings; I've seen things written that some go back to 3,000 years ago, though the signage and the NPS site says between 400 to 700 years ago. As for actual dating; I'm sure there are Archaeologists at work trying to determine accurate dating of the petroglyphs. 

And looking at some, like these give a good clue as to the period.

IMG_8295

Because sheep are not native to North America and were brought with the Spaniards in the 1600's, so those must have been done after the arrival of the Spanish settlers.

IMG_8298

IMG_8299

We enjoyed our time here; though it was starting to get pretty warm (this was in May), so it was time to head back and grab some lunch!

IMG_8288

Thanks for stopping by!

Strasbourg – Exploring, Lamian Restaurant, and L’Atelier 116

One of the great things about being in Europe during the last of November until the end of the year are the Christmas Markets. We had really enjoyed the Christmas Markets in Strasbourg when we visited several years earlier. And the Missus just couldn't keep still for the two weeks we were in Paris, so I decided to book two nights in Strasbourg. It's less than a two hour train ride from Gare de l'Est. Because this was a rather last minute decision, I wasn't able to book anything on Grande Île. Instead, we stayed at the Hotel Tandem, which was quite comfortable right next to the train station.

IMG_4504

It's quite convenient and just a short walk (or you take the tram) to the Grande Île. That first evening, we just wandered the Christmas Markets, which brought back wonderful memories and ate at the market. I'll do an out-of-sequence post on that when we get closer to Christmas.

IMG_4435

IMG_4440

The next morning, we had a light breakfast and coffee at the hotel and decided to do a bit of exploring. During our previous visit, we hadn't spent much time in the area known as "Petit France", a neighborhood which is a UNESCO World Heritage site, with lovely cobblestone streets and half timbered houses. You might be thinking "wait, but this is France, right?" Well, Alsace is right on the border of France and Germany and thus, has changed hands many times. The area named Petit France is not named after it's nationality, but as I mentioned in an earlier post:

"the name "Petit France" is not named for its architecture, but because of a 16th century hospital that treated "zum Franzosel" (the French disease), aka syphilis while still a free city in the Holy Roman Empire. Apparently, the citizens of Strasbourg believed the disease was the fault of the French. Basically, the idea was to isolate those with the disease in a structure in this district."

There was one structure we saw on our earlier trip that we didn't visit. On the River Ill stands the Barrage Vauban a dam and bridge.

IMG_4530

That passageway on the bridge is the Passage Georges Frankhauser. There's a terrace and crossing above the passage with what looked like a nice view so we decided to cross into Petit France that way.

IMG_4512

What I hadn't read was about the passage itself.

IMG_4515

Lining the passageway were gates that almost looked like jail cells. And within the "cells" were various sculptures and castings.

IMG_4517
IMG_4517
IMG_4517

And the view from the roof was quite nice.

IMG_4524

IMG_4529

From here we crossed the Ponts Couverts.

IMG_4533

And we were in Petit France…..

IMG_4541

Love the charming houses and streets……

IMG_4545

And the canals…..

IMG_4550

If we hadn't already done it on our previous visit, we would have taken the canal tour.

IMG_4553

We wandered thru more Christmas Markets.

IMG_4548

Before ending up at Place Gutenberg and familiar territory…..

IMG_4565

IMG_4568

We grabbed a light lunch at one of the Christmas Markets and headed on back to the room. We took the ever popular Grand'Rue back to the Canal du Faux-Rempart to get back to the hotel.

Along the way, we passed a Boulangerie I had on my "list". The Missus wanted to get something to have with Her afternoon tea, so we stopped in.

IMG_4591

Man, the place was super busy, but the line moved quickly and the Missus got Her treats.

IMG_4592

She enjoyed these and we decided to head on back for some croissant and coffee before catching our train the next morning.

L'Atelier 116
116 Grand'Rue
67000 Strasbourg, France

We relaxed then once the sun set, headed on out to check out the markets and lights…..

IMG_4614

Soon enough, it was time for dinner. The Missus had already had Her fill of Alsatian Christmas Market cuisine and because our trip was made at the last minute, I wasn't able to make reservations at any of the places I as interested in.

So, we decided on……well, Chinese of course! There was a noodle soup shop I had on my "list" and while the Missus was highly suspicious of my choice She went along. The shop was also along Rue du Fossé-des-Tanneurs, on the way back from Place Kléber. The name; Lamian.

The place was pretty busy when we arrived, but there was no wait for a table. There was one of the chefs working the "lamian" action for all to see.

IMG_4640

IMG_4641

So yes, they made their own hand pulled noodles here. Of course, we had to order that.

We started with a nice cold beer and some Cacahuetes au Vinaigre Pimente (3,5€/$3.75US), basically boiled peanuts with vinegar and chilies.

IMG_4628

As for our noodle soup, we got the Soupe de Nouilles au Boeuf Braise – Legerement Pimente (14,9€/$16.35US), basically Beef Noodle Soup, slightly spicy.

IMG_4626 IMG_4627   No, this wasn't cheap, but the meat, while being a tad more chewy than I prefer was quite beefy, the broth had a nice beefiness, was decently rich, with good five-spice tones, not overly salty, with a mild spice to it.

The noodles, were slippery and stretchy and quite good as well.

The boiled egg was overcooked, the yolk hard and dry.

We got the Canard Laque (5,5€/$6 US) – literally translated to "Peking Duck". This was not quite Beijing Kaoya, but the skin was fairly crisp, the flesh on the dry side, but the flavoring wasn't too bad.

IMG_4630

And for the equivalent of six bucks US, this was perfectly fine. The version of "duck sauce" was terrible though.

We also ordered some Jiaozi, the Raviolis au Bouef et Celeri (5,5€/$6 US).

IMG_4635 IMG_4636  The dumplings were quite large; the wrappers too brittle and chewy. The filling for the jiaozi were very beefy, with nice celeri tones, seasoned quite well, but quite tough. We were surprised that the black vinegar-soy dipping sauce was not half bad. This was our least favorite dish of the meal.

Half the fun was watching all the customers; about one-fourth were Asian, the rest were not. We got a kick watching the woman on the table next to us eat Her noodle dish. She used a fork to twirl the noodles, like you'd do with Italian pasta. She was really enjoying her meal and seemed to relish her Tsingtao! She ordered a second one, but wasn't able to finish. And at the end, she went and made sure to take some photos of the noodle maker.

IMG_4637

Adorable! We had fun watching French folks eating Asian food on this trip; whether it was Jiaozi, Ramen, A Sando, Sichuan, hot pot, or yes, Niu Rou Mian, they seemed up for it!

There was quite a line when we left.

IMG_4624a

After all, what better on a chilly winter evening but some noodle soup, right? Even in Strasbourg.

Lamian Restaurant
20 Rue du Fossé-des-Tanneurs
67000 Strasbourg, France

We headed back to the hotel and had a nice night of sleep. The next day, we awoke our train back to Paris wasn't scheduled to leave until 1044, so we headed back to L'Atelier 116 to get some espresso and a croissant Au Buerre.

IMG_4647
IMG_4647

The croissant was nothing to write home about; the exterior was decently flaky, but it needed more butter and was too doughy. 

As we were enjoying ourselves, an interesting thing happened, the Missus heard someone call Her name! Oh my, it was one of Her coworkers! She was visiting Strasbourg with her parents to check out the Christmas Markets. The woman's parents were so much fun; they had just come from….well, Paris of course! And loved France. We had such a great time talking to them that we had to force ourselves to leave in time to check out and catch our train. Such a fun coincidence; running into the Missus's coworker and her parents, at a random Boulangerie….in Strasbourg! 

Life is amazing, huh?

Thanks for stopping by!

Chiayi – A Lou Shi Turkey Rice (阿樓師火雞肉飯), Wenhua Road Night Market (Again), and River Bird Coffee Roaster (江鳥咖啡- 嘉義吳鳳北路店)

After returning from Alishan we had some snacks at the 7-11. I was quite shocked to see draft beer "pulls" in the store….you can get draft beer at a 7-11!

IMG_7044

We returned to the hotel, took a short nap, then headed out for an early dinner. The Missus was really in Her element in Taiwan. She would chat up folks and get recommendations. We were so taken by the Turkey Rice that we wanted to have that again. The young lady at the Tea Shop right at the corner recommended a Turkey Rice shop named "A Lou Shi". She told us it opens at 4pm, so we headed on out and wouldn't you know, we found the place!

IMG_7045

And there was quite a line! Since this is Taiwan, the line was a good thing! It moves so quickly.

Check out who was waiting for some Turkey Rice right in front of us!

IMG_7046

One quick look at the counter and you knew what they specialized in.

IMG_7049

IMG_7054

The place was in continuous movement of folks ordering, eating, then vacating…..

We really enjoyed the stir fried veggies in Taiwan, so of course we ordered all of it!

IMG_7055

All the greens were prepped the same way, blanched, then sauced, then minced garlic were added.

IMG_7057

The ong choi was crunchy, there was a light sauce which heightened the flavor. The garlic added a nice pungency.

IMG_7058

The lettuce had what tasted like oyster sauce on it, along with the garlic.

The yam leaves had a texture like spinach, without the "gooeyess", but also had a nice mild sweetness along with the chlorophyllic flavor.

IMG_7060

All were quickly blanched so the flavors weren't leached and there was some crispness to things.

And of course, we loved the bamboo shoots.

IMG_7065

Crunchy, with a earthy-nuttiness and a hint of sweetness.

This place served Turkey Rice two ways. Sliced and a version more braised.

IMG_7061

IMG_7063  IMG_7048 The rice was perfect, but the sauce was greasier and milder in poultry flavor than what we'd had earlier and the turkey meat was more chewy/tough as well. 

Overall, we preferred A Hong Shi.

A Lou Shi (阿樓師火雞肉飯)
No. 102 Wufeng North Rd.
East District, Chiayi City, Taiwan

Still, check out the line as we left!

IMG_7068

We had to walk thru Wenhua Road Night Market on the way back to the hotel.

IMG_7069

IMG_7071

And the Missus decided to stop at this charming looking stand for some Douhua – beancurd pudding.

IMG_7088

IMG_7076

Which She enjoyed.

IMG_7077

And of course there was a "show" going on at the Central Plaza that evening as well…….

IMG_4241

There's always something happening here I guess!

In an earlier post, I mentioned having problems getting train tickets because of the Qingming Festival (i.e. Tomb Sweeping week). Well, in order to get back to Taipei, I ended up hiring a driver, which in terms of US prices is quite inexpensive. In fact, after doing this car hire, I went ahead and did the same for other "excursions" during our trip. One good thing about having your own driver is that you have greater control of your schedule. So, I timed things so we'd be getting to our hotel in Taipei right at check-in time. This meant that we wouldn't leave Chiayi until after 12.

So, after grabbing a snack at the Hotel, we checked out and stored our bags and decided to take a walk around Chiayi.

IMG_7085

IMG_7086

There was a kind of rusticness to Chiayi, making it quite different from Taipei and Taichung. Businesses dotted the landscape all along Wenhua and Wufeng Road.

IMG_7087

On Wufeng Road we came along this shop and decided to get our caffeine fix.

IMG_7091

It turned out to be quite the hipster coffee shop.

IMG_7092

IMG_7094

The young lady working was so nice and sweet, while also being a bada$$ barista!

She made the Missus's pour over and I got my cold brew.

IMG_7099

IMG_7097

And she gave us some "treats" to have with our coffee.

IMG_7100

IMG_7098

River Bird Coffee Roaster (江鳥咖啡- 嘉義吳鳳北路店)
No. 132 Wufeng North Rd.
East District, Chiayi City, Taiwan

After our nice caffeine stop, we decided to stroll on back to the hotel. We stopped to do some shopping (and sampling) along the way.

IMG_7101

IMG_7103

Right at the center of the city is a fountain that dates back to the Qing Dynasty when Chiayi was the center of the sugar industry. The fountain stands where the city wall stood during the Qing Dyansty. But there's something else that catches your eye.

IMG_4250

Yes, it's a baseball player; specifically a pitcher. This is known as the "Kano" statue. The statue is of the late Wu Ming-Chieh, star player of the Kano Baseball Team, the team from Chiayi was chosen to represent "Formosa" in the Japanese High School Baseball Championship in 1931 and against all odds made it to the final, losing in the championship game. Wu Ming-Chieh was the pitcher on that team. It is said that the success of the Kano Team encouraged Taiwanese to play the sport and now baseball is considered to be the national sport of Taiwan. An award winning movie was made about the team in 2014. And this is a wonderful article if you'd like to have more info! Everyone loves an underdog story!

We walked back to the hotel and in a few minutes our driver arrived and we were headed back to Taipei.

IMG_7064

Thanks for stopping by!

Chiayi – The Wenhua Road Night Market and Alishan National Scenic Area

**** Not much food in this one….though I did love that Pepper Bun!

I thought I'd give you a break on all my Paris/France posts and head on back to Taiwan……

After checking into our hotel and having lunch at Ah Hong Shi Turkey Rice, we relaxed for a bit. We were staying right off Wenhua Road, right across the Central Plaza. Wenhua Road Night Market is but one block away and we weren't very hungry after our lunch, so it was a natural pick for grabbing a light dinner and getting in a nice stroll.

IMG_6921  IMG_6919 And even though it seemed pretty busy along the whole 500 meter route, there was a laid back vibe to things. And so, we actually enjoyed this night market more than the Yizhong and Ningxia Night Markets. Of course Taipei and Taichung are the first and third most populous cities in Taiwan at 7.8 and 1 million, while the entire population of Chiayi County is 260,000. The city just seemed quite laid back and we could take our time to notice people….and their pooches!

It seems like folks really like to take their dogs around in dog strollers in Taiwan!

We did get to take our time visiting various stands.

IMG_6922

IMG_6933

And ended up getting some baozi; sorry the photos of that didn't come out.

And our favorite item of the night from this stand.

IMG_6926  IMG_6932 The woman working was quite a good salesperson. She saw the Missus and I walk up and immediately started conversing with the Missus. And apparently this tactic worked as we got a Hujiao Bing – a pepper bun. 

I found that I really enjoyed Hujiao Bing, a juicy meatball laced with scallions, a the flavor of white pepper dancing on your tastebuds….

IMG_6927

This was one of my favorite items on the trip….until we came across an even better version in Taipei.

IMG_6934

As night set in, we headed back to our hotel.

As I mentioned earlier; our hotel overlooked the Central Plaza. The hotel was a bit dated and kind of noisy, but it was interesting to watch the happenings at the plaza from our window. On this evening there was some kind of talent/music show going on.

IMG_6936

The next morning we woke and headed on over to Chiayi Station where I grabbed something quick from the 7-11, before we boarded the bus to Alishan.

IMG_6937

And we were dropped off right in front of the main gate to the area.

IMG_6940

IMG_6944

And very popular……

IMG_6945

IMG_6946

We found Alishan quite easy to navigate, with wooden walkways, easy trails, a pleasant experience for all.

IMG_6953

IMG_6955
IMG_6955

There are actually four villages within the confines of Alishan.

IMG_6947

IMG_6938

IMG_6969 IMG_6970_02 As you walk within the park, you'll come across amazing trees. An example would be the "three generation tree". Where one tree grew upon another, each serving as a base for the next generation, a symbol for all who some here.

All the trees are known and have names.

It's quite impressive.

IMG_6975

IMG_6979

IMG_6983

IMG_6984 IMG_6997   There were very nice wooden paths and bridges making Alishan a very easy visit. Perhaps too easy for the Missus as She was getting kinda bored with the whole place. Whereas I enjoyed the view and the trees. Oh the stories they could tell!

We eventually found our way down to where the Alishan Railway Station was. This would have been our transportation here had all our planning worked out; but of course I didn't know anything about the Qingming Festival at the time.

IMG_7001

IMG_7002

From here we headed off.

IMG_7004

This is the Tree Spirit Pagoda.

IMG_7005

The relations between Japan and Taiwan are quite complicated and I won't really get into that because there's much I do not understand. What we did see in Alishan was the Tree Spirit Pagoda. Which the sign describes.

IMG_7006

There are amazingly old Red Cypress trees, many of which have interesting shapes. This is called the Elephant Trunk Tree.

IMG_7014

This is the Xianglin Arch Bridge.

IMG_7016

Beyond which there was this wall, which was busy with people.

IMG_7019

They were all interested in this flower.

IMG_7021

The Missus tried to figure out the significance of this flower and asked several folks, but couldn't get a clear answer. Perhaps one of our "FOYs" can clarify for us!

IMG_7022

From here, it was a close walk to Alishan Shouzen Temple.

IMG_7030

IMG_7032

And there was one thing I wanted to see. I had read that in every April….we were here in the beginning of April, moths will roost on the statue of the Supreme Emperor of the Dark Heaven, whose birthday is the 21st of April. We were here during the first week of April and guess what?

IMG_7033

My goodness, do you see the moth? Whoa…..

At this point…well, the Missus needed some tea, with aiyu.

IMG_7036

IMG_7038

IMG_7039

From here we walked back to the main village making a atop at a tea shop…..Alishan tea is quite famous a renowned and the Missus wanted to sample some.

IMG_7040

And She ended buying  some tea.

IMG_7041

Before heading back to Chiayi….

IMG_7043

It wasn't quite noon when we headed back, so we'd have time to grab some lunch.

Thanks for stopping by!

Big Island – Dinner at Merriman’s and Waimea Town Market (Kamuela/Waimea)

During our last trip to the Big Island, we decided to stay the night. As I've mentioned in a previous post from almost 10 years ago, Kamuela holds a special place in my heart. I'm glad the Missus enjoys the laid back, gentrified, farm-village vibe of the town. This time around we decided to stay for the night; something we hadn't done in years. We stayed at the Waimea Country Lodge and enjoyed strolling around town. For dinner, I had made reservations at Merriman's. We'd had dinner there over two decades ago and really didn't enjoy it much. This time, I hoped for better.

We walked on over…..

IMG_5628

We arrived a bit earlier than our reservation; but the young man at the host stand told us "no problem" we have a table. We experienced this type of warm and accommodating service during our entire meal. It was such a pleasure dealing with folks who were efficient and professional, yet so very warm and kind.

IMG_5631

The place was about two-thirds full at 530 pm. The Servers and staff seemed to know quite a few folks eating, so I'm guessing many were regulars from this town of about 9500. The Missus and I were so impressed by the staff….there was a young man with obvious learning/cognitive disabilities having dinner with his parents. Apparently he's a regular. All staff members dropped by to tell him hello, they knew he was wearing his "favorite shirt", they knew his favorite dishes….they embodied the "Aloha spirit". And this reminded me of why I almost took a job there back in the early 90s!

It's totally a tasting menu here two starters and desserts and a main. What we really enjoyed was that you could order 2 first courses and bypass the dessert! We ended up ordering three starters and one dessert which suited us perfectly!

Peter Merriman is considered one of the pioneers of "Hawaii Regional Cuisine", something that I have a love-hate relationship with. At its best the food represents the melting pot of people and cuisines of my home. At worse it is a cliched, soul less con-"fusion" of flavors and textures. I was hoping for the best here and the wonderful service had us off to a good start.

The amuse was Smoked Ulu (breadfruit) with Taro Chips. Basically a version of pulehu ʻulu.

IMG_5632

I don't think the Missus has had ulu before. There were all the flavors She enjoys in this; a mild smokiness, a pleasantly sweet-rich flavor which harkens to a mix of sweet potato and roasted chestnut. She loved it.

Next up, the Shoyu Poke.

IMG_5634

The Ahi as of excellent quality, so tender, well marinated in shoyu, though we would have appreciated more inamona and ogo. The mashed avocado kind of dulled the flavor of the poke.

The shrimp in the Grilled Wild Shrimp Bulgogi was fabulous; sweet and briny.

IMG_5637

This really didn't need much and we were glad that the "bulgogi" flavoring did not interfere with the wonderful sweetness of the shrimp which were also cooked to perfection.

The Kalua Pork Quesadilla was our least favorite dish of the evening.

IMG_5639

The pork was too salty, the smoke flavor too mild, the "tortilla" was more too hard and brittle; the sauce too sweet. This could have used something with a bit of "heat" to it.

The Missus ordered the "Day Boat Catch". 

IMG_5642

The fish was mahi mahi and was quite fresh, nicely cooked, mist and tender. The prawns were the highlight of this dish; fabulously tender and sweet. 

This being cow country; I went with the Kua'Aina Beef Tenderloin. It was a great choice.

IMG_5644  IMG_5645 It was cooked to a perfect medium rare, loved the beefiness. I was told this is grass fed beef, so I expected it to be more toothsome. The cauliflower was delicious; at least that's what the Missus said as She quickly poached them all from the plate. The jalapeno mashed potatoes were quite creamy and not really spicy at all.

The Missus enjoyed the "Chocolate Purse".

IMG_5647

Overall, we enjoyed the meal and loved the service. We'll definitely return in the future.

IMG_5648

Merriman's Big Island
65-1227 Opelo Rd.
Waimea, HI 96743

I had picked the Waimea Country Lodge for a simple reason. Right next door is the Waimea Town Market, which opens at 730am on Saturdays! In fact, I could see the market, which takes place at the Parker School from our window.

IMG_5651

And we headed on over right after the market opened.

IMG_5652

We enjoyed our time there.

IMG_5664

IMG_5658
IMG_5658

And made some nice purchases.

IMG_5813

Waimea Town Market at Parker School
65-1224 Lindsey Rd
Waimea, HI 96743

On a fun note; the gentleman who was working the Akaka Falls Farm stand started chatting with us. He asked us where we were from and we told him "San Diego". He asked "where in San Diego"? And we said "Bay Park". He stuck his hand out to us for handshakes and told us, "North Clairemont baby!!!!" We cracked up.

Such a small world, huh?

Paris – Kodawari Ramen Tsukiji

Even though we had quite a bit of walking during the day, we decided to head back out toward the 1st and 2nd Arrondissement for a nice evening walk.

Heading West on Rue Reamur, then up Saint-Denis an interesting and "colorful" area.

IMG_4363

I've posted on some of the interesting characters in this neighborhood, the former red-light district that is becoming more gentrified with every visit.

IMG_4364

Walking thru Passage Choiseul yet again.

IMG_4365

The Missus exclaimed how distances in Paris were seemingly a lot shorter these days……

There was one church we had been wanting to check out in the area; Église Saint-Roch.

IMG_4372

We had walked by many times; but had never gone in. We decided to pop on in for a look.

The church itself was built between 1653, when Louis XIV laid the first stone, completed in 1740.

IMG_4366

Within its walls hung works of the most renowned artists of the day. Of course, the French Revolution was right around the corner and the church was looted and sacked. In fact, the famous French writer Denis Diderot was entombed at Saint Roch. When the church was looted, his grave was sacked and his corpse was left on the church floor. And his final resting spot is not known.

IMG_4371

IMG_4369

It's quite an impressive church! We should have visited earlier.

We decided it was time to get some dinner so we headed out. We could see the Ferris Wheel from the Tuileries Christmas Market down the street.

IMG_4373

Things did seem much "closer" in Paris these days…..

As for dinner; well, the Missus thought some ramen would be nice on a chilly winter night. There was a ramen shop I'd been wanting to try since I first read the story of a retired French Air Force pilot who opened a ramen shop because of his love of of the dish. Jean-Baptiste Meusnier first opened Kodawari Ramen (Yokochō) in the 6th Arrondissement. The restaurant's theme was a "Yokochō" a food alley. Since we were in the 2nd, we headed to Kodawari's second location, Kodawari Ramen Tsukiji, which is based on…yes, Tsukiji. We arrived at a fairly early dinner time, so the restaurant, while busy, did not have a queue. 

IMG_4376

The interior was festooned with boxes of fish and fish market themed items stacked everywhere, the floor had even been wet to give it a real fish market feel….lucky for us, the "seafood" in the boxes weren't real nor was there the "parfum de poisson" lingering in the air. It was pretty tight quarters in the restaurant.

Of course I needed to start with a "biru".

IMG_4378

By the time we placed our order there was a line outside of the restaurant. So we had some good timing.

IMG_4396

Looking over the menu, I knew this was going to be an interesting meal. Based on the theme of the restaurant; this location of Kodawari featured a broth that was based on sea bream and chicken. Now, I wasn't sure how the Missus would handle that; but this would turn out to be the Missus's favorite ramen in Paris!

There are some nice appetizers on the menu, we ordered 3 apps along with the Sea Bream Paitan Ramen.

The "Sardine Shelter" was savory, umami-land.

IMG_4383

A bit smoky, briny, good oil, rich lardo.

The Missus loved the Sea Bream Carpaccio.

IMG_4385

The fish was fresh and firm; the grilling added a nice smokiness, the miso sauce added a layer of savory.

The Sea Bream Tartare was refreshing, with a clean flavor.

IMG_4386

The sauce had a nice savory-slightly sweet miso and the shiso really did a nice job refreshing the palate.

As for the ramen; well, I ordered the Sea Bream Paitan Ramen. Based on previous experiences with similar versions of ramen; I wasn't sure the Missus would like this.

IMG_4388

I was wrong; the Missus loved this. The broth was rich enough to nicely coat the tongue; the chicken flavors weren't overly strong and there was a nice balance with the flavors from the bones of the sea bream that were simmered for 5 hours. The shio tare wasn't overly salty and the sea bream was so very tender and moist. The Pata Negra Chashu was quite porky f on the more chewy side. The chili paste was totally unnecessary as this was packed with umami. The tamago was decently cooked and marinated and was warm. The noodles, made inhouse were nice and firm, with a good chew.

The Missus loved the broth.

IMG_4393

I was worried when we got here that it was all kitsch and concept over substance, but I gotta say, Kodawari Tsukiji went past the over-the-top setting.

IMG_4395

Look at the line outside as we left!

IMG_4398

So yes, it was a fun setting, but the food was quite satisfying and by the Missus' request, we'd return later during our stay.

Kodawari Ramen Tsukiji
12 Rue de Richelieu
75001 Paris, France

Bellies warm and full, we enjoyed the walk back to the apartment.

IMG_4400
IMG_4402

IMG_4401

Needless to say, we slept well.

To give us a nice break, I had made reservations to stay in Strasbourg, so we could once again enjoy the wonderful Christmas Markets in the city. It's only a hour and forty-five minute train ride to Strasbourg, but of course, I needed to do the very French thing and get us some sustenance for the ride. On one of my earlier visit to Boulangerie Pezeril I noticed the group of police getting sandwiches from the shop….so heck, if they are getting food from there…..

IMG_4413

Our train left Gare l'Est right on time at 1255 and we enjoyed our lunch and desserts on the train.

IMG_4417

IMG_4419

Boulangerie Pezeril
183 Rue du Temple
75003 Paris, France

And we were looking forward to two fun nights in Strasbourg!

Stay Tuned!

Paris – Pierre Sang in Oberkampf and More Wandering Around the Marais

I'm quite "old school"…well perhaps, I'm just old? Anyway, when it comes to finding places to try on trips I check out blogs and various sites, and yes, even discussion forums….when was the last time you heard that term? As for Paris; well, the now defunct Chowhound had a lively Paris board, after CH shut down, many of the folks moved over to Hungry Onion. There can be quite a bit of "noise", but also some useful info; which is how we found that Aux Crus de Bourgogne a place we passed so many times and thought was a tourist stop, was worth a visit! And which is how I came across all the recommendations for Pierre Sang in Oberkampf. Now there are those who are going to take pause at the thought of dining on French-Korean. But, look at all the French-Japanese places we've dined at in Paris!

Pierre Sang Boyer came to prominence after appearing on France's version of Top Chef and now has a kingdom of several restaurants in Paris. The most highly recommended, at least on H.O. is the tasting menu only location on Rue Oberkampf in the 11th. So, being that we were in Paris for an extended time, I made dinner reservations.

IMG_4321

We walked on over to the restaurant, which has a few tables and a bar area. Checked in and were seated. The staff were very friendly, unusually so for Paris, and then we found out the "other part" of the process here for the 5 course menu. You were served and had to guess what you were eating! Which I thought was fun. 

My apologies for the poor photos; the lighting in the place was so dark.

Anyway course 1. This was an easy one.

IMG_4304

Obviously Salmon Tartare, flavored with sesame oil. No biggie, just a simple dish. I guessed that there was daikon in this; but it was watermelon radish.

Next up.

IMG_4307

This had some perfectly cooked lentils and I also correctly guessed kimchi and chorizo! The Server was kinda impressed. At least someone was impressed. This dish seemed so mild in flavor in spite of the kimchi, which there was too little of and soy sauce which we actually couldn't taste.

Dish 3

IMG_4312

Well I got the Beef Tataki part. The beef was a bit tough for our taste. I also guessed cho-jang, but was told gochujang. I'm thinking the tones of vinegar and sweetness tilted things to the chogochujang side of things. The pickled onions were quite good, crisp and bracing; there was a citrusy component to the dish as well.

Our favorite item of the night. This is an easy one.

IMG_4314

The duck was perfectly cooked, the skin crisp, the flesh fairly tender. The butternut squash puree added that little sweet-fruitiness complimenting the duck. The bok choy was still nice and crisp. The gochujang was too overpowering for the duck. In theory, it should work a la hoisin sauce; but the spice was a bit overpowering in this case.

The Missus enjoyed the dessert.

IMG_4319

Overall, a fairly unique and fun meal, but with more misses than hits. We liked the staff, but really don't think we'll return.

Pierre Sang in Oberkampf
55 Rue Oberkampf
75011 Paris, France

The next morning we got up and did what was now our routine; coffee and croissants at the apartment. Then headed on out to do that Flanuer thing, exploring the area around Boulevard Beaumarchais. It's such fun just wandering and window shopping…..

IMG_4330

We got to check out the trendy Merci at 111 Bd Beaumarchais.

IMG_4332

IMG_4335

Loaded with all those things you don't need…..

And there was a moment, just like what happened a few days earlier, where we were reminded…….

IMG_4337

Of that "special one"…..

We stopped by Maison Plisson and took a look around.

IMG_4338

IMG_4339

IMG_4340

And got some terrine for lunch. The cheese looked tempting, but I had another destination in mind.

IMG_4343

Maison Plisson
93 Bd Beaumarchais
75003 Paris, France

Near Place des Vosges we came across this chocolate shop with some, well, unique designs.

IMG_4347

Yes, those "shoes" are made of chocolate!

IMG_4346

The name of the place is:

Joséphine Vannier – Chocolaterie d'Art
4 Rue du Pas de la Mule
75003 Paris, France

At Place des Vosges, we took a quick look at the courtyard of Le Pavillon de la Reine.

IMG_4349

It was fun ducking in and out of places and shop with no objective in mind. We loved little scenes like this one.

IMG_4353

IMG_4354

We finally made our way to Rue Saint-Antoine, which becomes Rue de Rivoli and made two quick stops; one at Fromagerie Laurent Dubois.

IMG_4357

Cheese heaven.

Fromagerie Laurent Dubois
97-99 Rue Saint-Antoine
75004 Paris, France

Heading back to the apartment, we picked up a baguette at Boulangerie Pezeril, which I posted on before, and had terrine, fromage de truffe, and baguette for lunch.

IMG_4358

Before nap time kicked in>

I was really enjoying "Paris at our leisure" and hope you enjoyed this post!

Thanks for stopping by!