Paris – Musée National Picasso, A. Lacroix Pâtissier, and Brunch at Le Saint-Regis

Day six of our two week stay in Paris was a Sunday and I had an idea. During the first Sunday of the month, many museums have free admission. The Musée National Picasso was fairly close by and opened at 930am, which would mean less crowds. We had already been to the Picasso Museum in Barcelona, so we thought this might be an interesting place to check out. After getting croissants from one of the nearby Boulangeries and a morning coffee we headed out.

The museum is housed in the very impressive Hôtel Salé, which was built in the 17th century.

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One of the special exhibitions during the time we visited was an exhibition based on Maya Ruiz-Picasso, one of four known children of Pablo Picasso, born of Marie-Thérèse Walter one of seven known "partners" of the artist (who was also married twice – shades of Diego Rivera). Young Maya was quite the muse to her father as a child and became devoted to the study of her father as well as an expert on his works. She also had quite the collection which was on display as well as many photographs.

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We sometimes find that the artists are even more interesting than their works.

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We enjoyed our one hour visit.

Sadly, Maya Ruiz-Picasso passed away just a couple of weeks after our visit.

Musée National Picasso
5 Rue de Thorigny
75003 Paris, France

After our visit we crossed on over to Île de la Cité taking a quick look at Notre Dame, then on over to the left bank, where we came across yet another Patisserie.

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Where the offerings looked lovely, thus the Missus bought a couple of items for le goûter (tea time) later in the day.

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The "Notre Dame", the one looking like a green apple and full of confit pomme verte (green apple of course) was actually quite good, not sweet, fairly tart, nice with tea.

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A. Lacroix Pâtissier
11 Quai de Montebello
75005 Paris, France

We decided to cross back over one Île Saint-Louis, the island right next to Île de la Cité. Passing Le Saint-Regis, we decided to stop in for lunch. We had previously enjoyed having coffee here and had noticed that the food looked decent. Plus, those al fresco tables looked perfect for people watching.

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The Missus had enjoyed the Salmon Benedict (19€/$20.35) She'd had in Montpelier earlier in the trip, so She decided to try them here.

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The "salmon" here was lox, which had been nicely cured and quite tender without being too salty, the eggs were nicely poached, and the Hollandaise was smooth and not overly buttery. 

I got the Salmon – Avocado Tartare (17€/$18.25).

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Man, where do they get the avocado here? It was perfectly ripe and creamy. It went well with the salmon. I enjoyed the mustard vinaigrette and the pleasantly biter greens.

It was a nice brunch and we'd gladly return. Also, not sure if it was just me, but it seemed like prices in Paris were cheaper than in San Diego?

Le Saint-Regis
6 Rue Jean du Bellay
75004 Paris, France

We strolled down Rue Saint-Louis en l'Île.

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Stopping to peek in at various shops….especially if we saw pooches. Like this fella' whom we deemed "Winston" as we saw him amble into one of the bakeries.

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He was obviously more interested in visiting the bouchon…..

And then we crossed the Seine on the Pont Marie. This being Paris, there are many historical sites.

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That is Fontaine de Jarente.

And then there are "other places" along the way….

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We’re Back!

Yes, we're back! And yes, I'm waaaay behind on my travel posts….the ending of our two weeks in Paris, our Taiwan trip, our Prescott – Albuquerque – Santa Fe – Taos, The Big Island and Oahu in February, and even a recent road trip to Buellton/Los Alamos! And here I go again on another trip! I know most folks come here looking for San Diego – SoCal food posts, so I save my travel stuff for weekends. Hopefully, I'll catch up soon now that we're back in town.

We were actually in Italy for Halloween, which was kinda interesting.

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And even had one of the best meals of our trip! Yes, it was Chinese cuisine…in Italy!

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We really enjoyed our time here and can't wait to go back!

Speaking of "going back". Of course we had to spend at least a couple of days in our favorite city.

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Mainly to shop…..

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And of course visit our old favorites…..

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And do our favorite activities here. One of which is just "people, and pooch watch".

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The more we visit; the harder it is for us to squeeze meals at our favorites in a couple of days. Though this time we found a new favorite, which was in plain sight. It seemed to be and is a kinda touristy restaurant, but we found the traditional dishes there to be quite good! Heck, we'd pass this place sometimes 4 or five times a day during our stays and never even though of eating there!

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That mistake has been rectified!

One thing that we'd never done in this city is a tour. One this trip, we booked a private tour of our favorite neighborhood, from one of my favorite podcasts. And man was it fun and informative.

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There was so much hidden in plain sight….stuff we had walked by so many times and never noticed! The tour was well worth the time and cost!

And of course, you'll always see something new when you visit….like this rainbow!

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And then we ended up where we started. We had just one full day; but I got to see an item on my "bucket list".

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And to do a bit more exploring.

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Things ended on a high note as our last two meals were quite good. A Sichuan restaurant whose menu was developed in consultation with on of my favorite authors.

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And a wonderful meal at the favorite restaurant in this city, of a late chef, author, and travel personality.

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I know I need  to catch up with all my travel posts. I'm hoping to do so soon!

Thanks for stopping by!

Where in the world are we – part 2

After enjoying our visits to two large cities we headed off to an area on the Italian coast known for their five villages.

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Picturesque and full of character, we really took to the area. On our first day, the Missus took me along for a hike. The main trail from one village to another had been washed out so we did an inland route which took 5 hours! Going up was not bad; but my knees are still recovering from the climb down!

You couldn't complain about the views though!

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And the sunsets were fabulous!

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We spent the next two days exploring the other villages; each with its own personality and character.

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For a highly touristed area, we found folks to be gracious and friendly, with a fun sense of humor.

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As for the food; well, it was seafood of course.

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Our next stop the capitol of the region; a bustling port city.

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Basically, there was one reason for my wanting to visit here.

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I also booked a food tour to learn a bit more about the local cuisine and specialties.

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We're now in the home stretch of our trip in our favorite city. Time just flies when you're on holiday, doesn't it?

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Hope everyone is doing well and thanks for stopping by!

Happy Halloween

Yes, we're still travelling. And really enjoying things. Another update soon.

One interesting thing we noticed in London were all the places decorated for Halloween!

The most entertaining for us were all the "ghosts" walking around the grounds of the Tower of London.

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They were really amazing and stayed in "character" in spite of the roaming public, really adding to the atmosphere!

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Pretty cool eh?

Anyway, we here at mmm-yoso would like to wish you a fun, healthy, and safe Halloween!

And don't work too hard, like this person obviously did!

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Happy Halloween!

Where in the world are we – part 1

So yes, we're off on another trip and are having a great time. We are now on the third "stop" of this holiday.

The first stop was a place we've flown thru so many times, but really never took the time to enjoy. This time, we wanted to check things out and enjoy. And that we did. It's a bustling city, full of iconic locations.

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Yes, it's an easy guess……

There's so much to see that we limited our visits; I'm sure we'll be back. After all, there's so much history here.

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And spent a good amount of time at places we did visit.

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And, as we've done in recent years, we carefully picked tours to suit us. Which usually have an interesting wrinkle to them.

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What about the food you may ask….after all; the main focus of our humble little blog is still food.

Well, what we ate here ranged from two Michelin Star Chinese.

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To more traditional grindz.

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Our next stop was a pleasant surprise for us. Considered to be the fashion and business center of this country; it still seemed quite laid back. We enjoyed strolling the streets and plazas, which included one of the oldest shopping malls in the world. Which was quite stunning.

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The Duomo was also something to behold.

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We included a visit to the roof as part of our admission. Even though raindrops were falling, it was stunning.

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There was one main reason for our visit, which did not disappoint.

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And our favorite meal of our trip thus far was here.

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Which was located in the wonderful little neighborhood we were ensconced in. In fact, we ate all of our meals in this area. Which included some traditional dishes of the region.

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We're now at our next destination and enjoying things. We hope all is well with you!

Thanks for stopping by!

Paris – Les Cocottes Four Years Later

There's one sort of tradition we have when visiting Paris. On every trip we make an effort to view the Eiffel Tower at night. So, after taking a break following our morning of walking around the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th Arrondissements, we headed off to the seventh. On this day we hadn't made any plans for dinner. We were wondering how Les Cocottes was doing. Due to the location it was the scene of our first dinner in Paris and it had been four years since our last visit. The simple, unpretentious food at Les Cocottes had been satisfying and in 2021, the restaurant's namesake, Christian Constant retired. So new owners are in place. 

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The gentleman working the front of house was very professional and guided us to a table. While the 7th has always been quite popular with ex-pats, we've noticed even more over the last couple of visits. And on this visit we found that all the customers in Les Cocottes seemed to be tourists.

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We ordered two starters and noticed that the special for the evening was cassoulet, so we got that to share.

First up was the Creme de Champignon et Lard Paysan – a creme of mushroom soup with bacon. It was also crowned with a soft boiled egg.

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When this I arrived I told the Missus; "uh-oh….I must have Covid!"

She rocked back in Her seat and said "why?"

"Because, I must have lost my sense of smell….I can't smell any mushroom!"

The Missus cracked up! In all seriousness, this was very bland, boiled egg wasn't "soft", the bacon soggy, very little mushroom flavor.

Next up was the Foie Gras Terrine.

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Check out the "toast"…….did they lose their bread knife and have to tear this by hand? The bread was dry and mealy. The foie gras was fine, quite livery-offaly in flavor. The temperature was off as it was way too cold and hard.

And lastly, the Cassoulet. 

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Good lord, this was terrible! The pork was on the tough side and the tops were incinerated. This needed some help in terms of seasoning as well. The garlic sausage was undercooked and tough. Worse of all, the beans were also undercooked and hard. One of the worse versions of cassoulet we've had.

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This was very sad. Les Cocottes held a special place in our memories, but now….. And to think this is Christian Constant's legacy! Man, we thought our last visit to Arnaud Nicolas was bad!

Les Cocottes de Christian Constant
135 rue Saint-Dominique
Paris, 75007

We were feeling a bit down; but that was soon quelled as soon as we saw this.

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We strolled on over to the Tour Eiffel, the glowing beacon in the night, the iconic symbol of Paris, instantly recognizable by billions.

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We crossed the Seine on Pont d'Iéna and watched the tower sparkle at the top of the hour and then headed back to the apartment strolling along the Seine.

At at Place de l'Alma we took time to pause at the Flamme de la Liberté.

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Presented to the city in 1989 by the International Herald Tribune to mark the 100th anniversary of the English publication in Paris. In 1997, Diana, Princess of Wales died in the tragic crash in the Pont de l'Alma tunnel and Flamme de la Liberté became a de facto memorial to the beloved Diana. The place officially became Place Diana in 2019.

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It reminds me of the lyrics to that Elton John song….the version he performed live only once in 1997.

"And it seems to me you lived your life
Like a candle in the wind
Never fading with the sunset
When the rain set in
And your footsteps will always fall here
Along England's greenest hills
Your candle's burned our long before
Your legend ever will…"

Elton John – Candle in the Wind 1997

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Paris – Les Artistes du Ravioli, Patrick Roger Chocolate, and other “Stuffs”.

On our fifth full day in Paris we decided to just go with the flow and just do whatever came to mind during the day. During the previous four days we'd had plans, but on this Saturday, we just wanted IMG_4157 to kick back and enjoy things. So, a visit to our favorite little spot on Rue Montorgueil, Café du Centre was in order. So, we strolled on over. It was fairly early on this Saturday, so the streets weren't quite as busy, though the shopping on Rue Montorgueil was in full swing.

So, we sat, had our Cafe Allonges and just watched the world go by for an hour or so.

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So relaxing; it's a favorite pass time of ours.

From here we headed off to do some shopping in the 2nd; passing this art installment which we don't remember seeing before right in front of the Bourse de Commerce.

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Doing a bit of a search when I returned to the apartment, I found that this is called Cheval et Cavalier (" Horse and Rider") by American artist Charles Ray.

We strolled thru the lovely Galerie Vero Dodat which I've mentioned before.

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We love walking thru the and exploring the covered passages of Paris

It was fun checking things out. There were some cute pooches as well……

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There's always something to draw your attention.

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After our required stops along the way, we headed on back. Stopping at Hôtel de Ville, City Hall for a bit. You see this was during the first week of December and the Christmas Markets were open. Hôtel de Ville has a Christmas Market of its own.

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While not as fun and those in the Alsace (we'd actually be taking a short trip soon) it was a fun little stop. And we saw this well behaved little one posing for a photo which stopped us in our tracks.

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My goodness……he looked like Frankie! The Missus and I looed at each other and smiled. Maybe Frankie was looking down at us at this moment! "We miss you everyday Frankie!"

We took busy Rue des Archives back in the direction of the apartment and the Missus saw a chocolate shop named Patrick Roger and we stopped in.

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Many of the chocolates seemed sculpted like pieces of art and the Missus decided to buy an assortment.

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The Missus didn't enjoy these quite as much as Her favorite, but it was a fun stop.

Patrick Roger
43 Rue des Archives
75003 Paris, France

As we got to the apartment, we decided it was time for some lunch. The side streets close to where we were staying had quite a few Chinese restaurants, in the Haute Marais of all things. I mentioned the History of this in an earlier post. We saw this shop and decided some jiaozi might be nice on a winter day.

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The window was all fogged up because there were quite a few people in the place and there was a woman making jiaozi in the front as well. Customer base was a mix of Chinese and regular Parisians. 

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We got an order of Pork and Cabbage Jiaozi and an order of Baozi.

IMG_4182 IMG_4184  The wrapper was too thick and chewy, the filling tender but on the bland side. The black vinegar provided was really weak. These weren't very good.

The Baozi was better, but not by much.

IMG_4186 IMG_4188 The dough was too rubbery, though the pan fried portion was better. It was fairly yeasty in flavor and not overly sweet. The filling here was more tender and juicy, but still on the bland side, in need of a ton of the watery black vinegar.

Not quite sure in the dumpling "artiste" was inhouse on this day? But it was an inexpensive lunch.

Les Artistes du Ravioli
33 Rue au Maire
75003 Paris, France

And it was close to the apartment which was a good thing since I was ready for a nap!

Thanks for stopping by!

Paris – National Archives Museum, Aux Merveilleux de Fred, and a Revisit to Maison De Chengdu

After our lunch at Restaurant La Mosquée de Paris we headed back across the Seine back to the apartment. There was one shop that the Missus saw on our way to the Jardin des Plantes that She waned to check out.

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Aux Merveilleux de Fred is a chain of shops with branches all over France, London, Europe, New York City, and even Tokyo specializing in, well, Le Merveilleux, a meringue based dessert.

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The Missus wanted to try this so we bought a couple for our "le goûter" (afternoon tea).

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Aux Merveilleux de Fred
24 Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe
75004 Paris, France

We dropped by the apartment and after storing the Merveilleux, we noticed that it was still fairly early in the day. We had passed the National Archives Museum a couple of times on our walks and had noticed that there was a special exhibit on Epidemics being held for a couple of months. Since the special exhibit was free, we decided to head on over.

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The National Archives Museum was formerly known as the Musée de l'Histoire de France and is located in the Hôtel de Soubise which was originally established in 1371! It's quite a grand looking mansion.

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We walked thru the entrance and then up the stairway to the exhibit.

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And there were boards with information and timelines of the various epidemics in France's history.

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Along with documents, paintings, and other displays along the way.

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There were no English translations on the labels, but when I'd come across something like this, I would go ahead and use Google translate.

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Which usually did a good job in translating. In the case above:

"Instructions and memories necessary both to prevent contagious disease and to get rid of it when a city is attacked, by means of quarantine."

And sometimes, like in the case below, no translation was necessary.

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There were also interesting drawings, paintings, and photographs that documented moments in history.

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And lest you think this was all about long ago history, I found this photo to be quite compelling. It is a photo of the Louvre on the first day of the Covid shutdown in Paris, March 17, 2020.

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After viewing this, we toured some of the other rooms of the "Hotel".

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And then did a quick walk thru the gardens, which would be a nice place to relax during better weather.

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All in all, a nice 90 minute stop for us.

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Heading back to the apartment, while the Missus relaxed, I took a short trip out to the Carrefour for some tea. After all, we needed that to pair with our Merveilleux forle goûter, right?

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These were light, not overly sweet. Not something we'd seek out, but nice for a pleasant afternoon tea.

We then settled in for a nice afternoon nap. Upon awakening, I went ahead and checked emails and such. Night came upon us quite quickly. I hadn't made reservations for dinner on this evening. We'd be spending so much time in Paris that I just made reservations for ever other night. We had been quite disappointed with lunch and the Missus wanted some "comfort food". We were pleasantly surprised with our spur of the moment selection on the first night in Paris that we decided to return to Maison De Chengdu.

We selected our favorite dish from that visit; the Intestine Dry Pot and it was indeed a winner again.

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Crisp pork intestine, nicely moderated spice, a bit of ma, just a nice dish with rice.

We also selected a dish we saw several of the tables of Chinese customers order the last time; the green beans with pork.

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Another winner here! The beans still had a nice crunch…there was some "wok hay" going on, smoky tones, a touch of spice, a good amount of savory soy sauce and white pepper. 

In "bean mode", we also got the long beans with pork. 

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This one was a bit on the bland side.

This was a nice dinner, straight forward Sichuan style cuisine, something I wish we had here in San Diego.

Maison De Chengdu (古味成都)
16 Rue Volta
75003 Paris, France

We had a nice post-dinner stroll; something that we should actually do more of here at home as well. Life was good!

 

Paris – Jardin des Plantes de Paris and Lunch at Restaurant La Mosquée de Paris

As I mentioned in previous posts, spending two weeks in Paris meant that we'd have time to explore and spend more time enjoying the city. So far on this stay the Missus had Her hair done, we'd done our third (and most successful) visit to the Louvre, and even visited what is claimed to be the oldest pet cemetery in Europe. The Missus was really into getting me to "put in my steps", so I thought we'd take a nice stroll to the 5th Arrondissement and check out the Jardine des Plantes. Though we had passed by the area many times during our stays in Paris, we had never visited. We just thought it would be a nice place to take a walk and relax. The 70 acre park hosts an Alpine Garden, the Natural History Museum, and even a Zoo, right in the heart of the city. We would just be taking a pre-lunch stroll on this day though.

On the way to the garden, I made sure we took Rue du Temple. Why? Well, because of this.

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Wondering what this is? Well, I'm going to make you click this link to find out!

It was a nice stroll to the garden. As we entered we saw that there was an exhibition going on. I found out that every year during the holiday season the Jardin has what they call their "festival of lights". During the evening I believe there's an admission fee, but it's free during the day.

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The theme for this season (2022) was "Mini-Mondes", literally the little creatures.

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And was quite fun and interesting to see; even during the day.

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It was quite charming!

We walked down each path, watched families enjoying themselves, a group of folks were doing Tai-chi in one area. It was a very pleasant stroll.

Now the reason I decided to stop by was for our lunch destination. Across the street from the garden resides the Grand Mosque of Paris along with the prayer rooms and such, the Mosque has a cafe and restaurant. And the restaurant is located right across the street from the southwest exit of the garden.

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I had checked out the menu online and it featured items we've enjoyed during our travels; like Brick we enjoyed in Tunisia and Mechouia, they even had Shakshuka on the menu. I was wondering if this would make the Missus tell me I needed to step up my Shakshuka game, like She did after having the dish in Jerusalem?

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The place was pretty quiet when we arrived. It was around 11am in the morning. There was another couple who just arrived and several folks still working on their laptops and such.

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The interior was quite nice! We were told that lunch was not served until 1130, but were given menus; including the one for Hammam as well! Just in case you want some waxing as a appetizer to your couscous.

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The Missus got some mint tea and I got some coffee and we just sat and relaxed.

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The mint tea was quite good.

Right around 1120 all the laptops were closed and folks started leaving. I guess it was now lunchtime?

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We placed our order and then within 10 minutes the folks started coming in, viola!

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Soon enough our food started arriving. We didn't go for any of the couscous or large dishes; mainly because we really wanted to see how our favorite dishes from previous trips were.

First to arrive was the Mechouia.

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This was super bland and needed more tomato for some acidity. It had a greasy tongue feel and also would have done well with more salt. It hadn't been cooked long enough and the peppers and tomato hadn't broken down enough. It also needed more onion in our opinion as well.

This was delivered along with the Mechouia and we cracked up!

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Well, this is Paris, right? No pita here! Actually, the baguettes were very yeasty and light. A bit more crisp-crustiness would have helped, but these were not bad. 

The Zaalouk (eggplant salad/dip) was up next.

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The eggplant was fairly creamy, this really also needed more salt and spice. It could have used much more harissa, though the texture was good.

Finally, the Brik arrived.

IMG_4099 IMG_4101   When this arrived, the Missus and I gave each other a "look". This didn't seem quite right. And yes, it was overcooked, lacking in flavor, the filo like pastry was hard instead of crisp. And that egg; that poor overcooked, unseasoned egg. 'Nuff said.

The final dish to arrive was the Chakchouka (Shashuka).

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This was on the watery side and bland. Glad the egg wasn't cooked to death, though we'd have enjoyed it more runny. You can just tell by the look, can't you? It really lacked the tangy-sweet-acidity from having enough tomatoes. I don't think they used much Harissa in this as it lacked spice. Overly light in cumin tones. You get the picture, right? At least the Missus wouldn't be telling me I needed to up my Shashuka game.

Overall, a very disappointing meal. Though the place was packed when we left. Service was a bit slow, but the young folks working were nice. I'm sure there's better to be had in Paris; so hopefully on a future visit.

Restaurant La Mosquée de Paris
39 Rue Geoffroy-Saint-Hilaire
75005 Paris, France

On the positive side, we'd enjoyed our time at the Jardin des Plantes.

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And the day was young. We'd passed a patisserie on the way here that the Missus was interested in and we still had another place to visit on the docket for the afternoon.

Thanks for stopping by!

COMC – Memories of Meals in Provence (Before Covid)

**** This post is done by request. It's of places we visited back in 2019. I'll be back with more up to date posts tomorrow!

I was recently asked about some recommendations for Provence. The reader (who requested anonymity) sent me a fine email asking me if we'd ever been there. And yes we had! And we loved our tine in Provence and enjoyed our stay in Avignon. But why no posts you might ask? Well, we visited in the winter of 2019. I always seem to have a backlog of travel posts it seems. By the time I had gotten around to posting on our trip….well, this thing named Covid happened. For the longest time, I really didn't feel comfortable doing travel posts…..in the middle of a pandemic. And then when I restarted, well, I was so behind. I was not even going to do posts on our trip to Israel and Jordan. But thanks to "FOYs" KerriK and LaurieH, who both indicated that they wanted those posts, I did them. But by the time those were completed it was mid-spring of 2022! I did a post on our short stay in Paris before heading to Provence and then decided that with a huge backlog of travel and road trip posts to just forgo posting on Provence. I did mention our "interesting stay" at CDG, before heading home from that trip since it dovetailed into our returning to Paris in 2022. So, since this "FOY" wants to see some photos of our meals in Provence….waaaay back from 2019, here goes.

La Cuisine du Dimanche (since closed):

Was our first dinner in Avignon.

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This was an interesting meal. Some of the combinations were odd and the presentations somewhat strange for some dishes.

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La Cuisine du Dimanche
31 Rue de la Bonneterie
84000 Avignon, France

L'Agape:

This was a nice dinner. Modern presentation, nice flavors.

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L'Agape
21 Place des Corps Saints
84000 Avignon, France

Avenio:

Our favorite dinner during our stay in Avignon.

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Avenio
19 Rue Des Trois Faucons
84000 Avignon, France

Maison Ripert:

This was a nice meal. A bit too much going on, but still excellent ingredients.

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Maison Ripert
28 Rue de la Bonneterie
84000 Avignon, France

L'Épicerie de Ginette:

Lest you think we were just eating in fancy restaurants. one of our favorite places was L'Épicerie de Ginette. We visited twice. After all, who wouldn't love this.

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We loved the tartines here.

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L'Épicerie de Ginette
25 Place des Corps Saints
84000 Avignon, France

And while I'm not sure how valuable this post will be now, I hope your meals are wonderful!