Paris – Au Petit Versailles du Marais Revisited and Dinner at Granite

We were really enjoying our day in Paris and decided to just keep on strolling to Tuileries Garden.

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Familiarity had changed our perception of distance in Paris. Places that used to seem quite far now seemed relatively close.

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And we got to Tuileries Garden in what seemed to be no time at all. The Tuileries Christmas Market was being set-up and we could see that the Ferris wheel was already in place.

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It would be in full swing when we returned to Paris.

Even though it was fairly chilly, the sun was out, so you could count on Parisians and a tourist or two (i.e. us) taking time to enjoy the day at the fountain and pond known as the Grand Bassin Rond.

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It made for a relaxing afternoon…..

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I'm not quite sure if it was the weather, something in the water, perhaps the air, or the environment, but we would readily adopt, the French equivalent of "Afternoon Tea", known as Le Goûter. We just seemed to flow into it. And it started on this day as the Missus decided She wanted something sweet and a spot of tea from that place She had come across when I took my baguette class on our last visit. So we headed back to the Marais and Au Petit Versailles du Marais.

After ogling the dessert collection…..

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We headed over to the tea salon, grabbed an outside table, ordered the Missus's selected pastry, tea for Her, and coffee for me.

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The woman working here is a hoot….she works real hard at wooing folks in who look at the menu sign and always says "best choice…best choice…." when you select one of the pastries.

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I gotta say, I even enjoyed the Royal Caramel as it wasn't overly sweet.

Au Petit Versailles du Marais
1 Rue Tiron
75004 Paris, France

After our snack we headed back to the hotel and took a break.

I had made reservations for dinner with a restaurant I'd had my eye on since reading about it in Alexander Lobrano's blog named Granite. It helped that the restaurant was less than a 10 minute walk from our hotel.

Located on Rue Bailleul, Granite does modern French, and the chef Tom Meyer worked under Anne-Sophie Pic at the 3 Michelin starred Maison Pic.

The place looks quite modern.

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The service was quite warm and yet professional and we got the 7 course tasting menu with a single wine pairing which the Missus enjoyed.

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Things started out with an oyster course.

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The brininess of the oyster was balanced out with a bit of sour tartness from green apple and the celery like flavor of lovage. The menu stated that kimchi was used in this dish but I couldn't detect that. Very clean and refreshing overall.

We both loved the Cepe; porcini mushroom which was wonderfully earthy.

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The mushroom was seared perfectly with almost a buttery texture, though the other items on the plate added a bit too much sweetness for us.

Like the mushroom, the scallop was seared perfectly, the interior was perfectly rare and sweet.

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Though there was a bitter component in the dish that distracted from our total enjoyment.

The Artic Char was wonderful.

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Tender and buttery in texture; the lentils were wonderful and almost nutty, and there was a light sweet earthiness to the dish which elevated the flavors. The sauces really enhanced this dish.

Of all the items presented for this meal, we enjoyed the Pigeon Course the most.

IMG_2802 IMG_2804  We were instructed to start with the "naan", basically a buttery cube of flatbread with wonderfully flavored fowl in it. The skewered liver was wonderfully gamy and delicious. 

But the real "winnah" was the seared pigeon breast which was quite tender, wonderfully gamy, the sauce featured chocolate which was more savory than sweet. There was so much complexity in the flavors. This was amazing!

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The rose foam was a perfect palate cleanser.

I enjoyed the Pomelo Meringue as it wasn't overly sweet.

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The Missus loved the chocolate; which was very decadent, without being overly sweet. The Earl Grey sorbet was wonderful as it added a grounding, almost lemon-orange flavor which went so well with the chocolate.

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We enjoyed the service and pacing. And while I don't think we'll be returning; there are just too many options in Paris, this was a pleasant meal.

Granite
6 Rue Bailleul
75001 Paris, France

 

Paris – Chez Alain Miam Miam and Église Saint-Leu-Saint-Gilles de Paris

After returning from our last trip to Paris, we contemplated a longer trip, which ended up being a whole month in France. As usual, we started in Paris, flying out on BA thru LHR. Like I mentioned in my previous post; while the Business Class meals on BA has to us seem better when returning to San Diego from LHR, overall, the food had improved from our last post-Covid travels.

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These days we have a routine when flying into Paris in the evening. We catch the RER Blue Line from CDG to Les Halles and stay in the area. This time, since we'd be staying at AirBnbs and VRBOs for most of the trip, we did a hotel right outside Les Halles. One benefit of flying Business Class are the lay flat beds, where we can (usually) get a decent amount of sleep and work on getting our internal clocks adjusted. By the time we got to our hotel it was after 9pm, so it was right off to bed.

The next morning; well we slipped right into our routine.

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We strolled over to Rue Montorgueil and had our Café Allonge at Café du Centre just like we usually do.

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And just enjoy people watching……

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Café du Centre
57 Rue Montorgueil
75002 Paris, France

This was a pretty quiet Thursday morning.

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And we felt so relaxed and at home at our corner seats.

As for our plans; well, we went to the Marais and did our due diligence lèche-vitrine ("window licking" – the French term for window shopping). We spent a good amount of time licking 'dem windows and when it was time for lunch, well, we decided on a place I'd had on my list for a while. A rather small shop on Rue Charlot right around the corner from Marche Les Enfants Rouge, named Chez Alain Miam Miam. In fact, this was our original destination during a previous visit to the area, but both shops (they have a shop and a stand in the marche) were packed, so we ended up eating at Chez Taeko. I had read so many superlatives about the place; Food & Wine says it's one of the best sandwich shops in Paris and this YouTube video calls it the "Best Sandwich in the World"that I wanted to check the place out. We decided on having an early lunch to avoid the crowds and got there at 10am. The shop is tiny; the owner, Alain Roussel was manning the counter and we ordered our sandwich and went to one of the shared tables.

Eventually, the beast was brought to us.

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The bread was wonderfully toasted and a textural treat; the tomatoes had a wonderful sweet acidity, there's avocados, wonderful caramelized onions, a huge amount of milky-earthy Comte cheese, and ham. The only thing we thought was there wasn't enough of a salt component. But this was quite good and one sandwich was enough for both of us.

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In Paris, there are processes. Here, after watching other folks, I noticed that once folks finished their sandwiches, the plates were returned (by non-tourists) to a window and so I took our now empty plate there and got a huge "thumbs up" from the crew!

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As we were leaving at around 11 there was a line already forming outside the shop. Not a cheap sandwich at 17 Euros, but it was lunch for the both of us.

Chez Alain Miam Miam
26 Rue Charlot
75003 Paris, France

On Rue de Bretagne, we stopped at Jean-Paul Hevin for some confections and Comptoirs Richard for some tea for later in the trip and took our time walking back to the hotel. On Rue Saint-Denis, right across from Raviolis Chinois Nord Est is a church named Saint-Leu-Saint-Gilles de Paris which was built in 1235! On Rue Saint-Denis? I had wanted to check the place out on our last trip but it was closed the entire time. It must have been my lucky day because it was open!

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There was one main reason for my visit. I'd read that the relics of Saint Helena were kept in the church. According to Atlas Obscura:

"As history tells it, in 840 a monk from Hautvillers, France returned from a trip to Rome with a surprising souvenir. He admitted he had broken into St. Helena’s tomb and stolen part of her body while he was there. Instead of ordering its return, the pope allowed the relic to stay in France since the item itself hadn’t protested the theft by miraculously stopping it (as other relics reportedly had)."

And in 1819 the relics were moved here. We found the stairs to the crypt were closed and only opened during certain hours. But again, fate intervened as a woman came by with the keys and went down the stairs and waved us down.

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I'm guessing she is a regular worshipper here so they gave her the keys. She lit some candles, said a prayer, then left.

Apparently, parts of Saint Helena's body is wrapped and kept here.

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It was an interesting stop.

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From here we decided to extend our walk and visit some other familiar places before dinner.

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It was a lovely day in Paris and we wanted to make the best of it.

We’re Back! Dinner on BA and our First Meal Back from Sizzling Pot King

Whoa…well, after spending a month in France I’m having a bit of a time of it getting adjusted to San Diego time again. And that journey home; we stayed at CDG overnight with a 7am flight to LHR, which helps as we don’t have to get up early. But then there’s the 5 1/2 layover at Heathrow and then the 11 hour flight home. Which is why we fly business class. Though we didn’t account for the fussy baby in the seat behind us, these things happen….so even with the lie flat seats…well, I got maybe an hours sleep?

On the positive side; I’d say that the meals on BA have returned to pre-Covid quality. And it’s always been much better flying back to San Diego, than flying from SD to LHR. This was pretty good.

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One of the things with leaving for a month is…well, the fridge and pantry were cleaned out before we left. We arrived home at around 6pm; it was already dark. In need of something convenient with a little zip, I did a takeout order from Sizzling Pot King. Funny thing; it was in the high 20’s when we left Paris, so weather here in the 40’s didn’t bother me much, it was basically short sleeve weather, so I got some looks when I waltzed into Sizzling Pot King; seeing all those folks bundled up looking at me like I’m some nut wearing a t-shirt. Even the young man who knows my order looked at me strangely.

Anyway, we had the usual for dinner.

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It was nice and decently spicy; with a mild “numbing” from the Sichuan Peppercorns…but I’m not sure if it was all the Sichuan we had in Paris; but this seemed to be missing something. Oh well, at the least it did the job.

*** Sizzling Pot King is now Zhang Liang Malatang

Sizzling Pot King
8058 Clairemont Mesa Blvd.
San Diego, CA 92111

And I quickly reverted back to my wimpy “San Diego weather” self……though for some strange reason, I feel somewhat out of sorts with regards to manners, pacing, and such.

I’m working on getting my act together and will have posts done.

Meanwhile…..even after a month….this is still on my mind!

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Thanks for stopping by!

Where in the World Are We Part Deux

Wow, it's been quite a mega vacation. We're heading home soon, but I thought I'd do one more post. It's been nearly two weeks in our favorite city! Spending that time here has really enabled us to get a good feel for the city.

We've gotten to revisit some sights and locales.

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And also check out other places from our "list".

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Including the oldest pet cemetery in Europe.

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Which has the grave of a Movie Star!

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We revisited a city known for their Christmas Markets.

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Which seemed busier than ever!

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We took a quick day trip and visited a beautiful chateau.

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And of course, enjoyed the Christmas lights and displays here as well.

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And of course, there are pooches everywhere.

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As for dining……well, we've hit up some old favorites.

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And because of our time here, we're able to finally check out some places and dishes that we'd read about.

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And along with French cuisine…..

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We've really taken to the Asian cuisine in this fine city.

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And this toro-sando was such a wonderful surprise!

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There have been places that reminded us that we're overdue for a trip to Japan.

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Speaking of reminding us of Japan. We had dinner at an underground, hidden Tempura Bar. It was delici-yoso!

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And the Missus has been enjoying stopping at various patisseries and getting something to have with tea in the afternoon.

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Well, we're off to dinner in a bit, so it's time for me to get ready.

Thanks as always for stopping by and I hope you have a great week!

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Sunday Sandwiches – The A la Mexicana From Barrio Donas

I had a bunch of errands to run before our current trip. It was fairly early and I was a bit hungry, so I decided to stop in at Barrio Donas and grab a breakfast torta on the way home. I had actually been waiting for the location in Old Town to open, but it seems to have been delayed, I guess it's the new normal. I understand the National City location hasn't opened yet either. I drove into the lot and noticed it wasn't busy at all; my lucky day.

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I waltzed in, placed my order for the A la Mexicana, which is now $8.50, it was $7.50 on my last visit in 2021

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The woman working was a hoot and my order was ready in minutes.

The torta did well on the 15 minute drive home.

Barrio D Rev 03 Barrio D Rev 04  I noted in my previous post that there's quite a bit more filling these days and on this visit they went a bit overboard on the chipotle. This was much spicier than I recall, though perhaps my tolerance has waned over the last couple of years? I also noted that they have changed the bread in my last post as well; it's quite yeasty and much lighter than what I used to enjoy. Regardless, the combination of eggs, beans, cheese, salsa performed adequately as my late breakfast on this day. Though perhaps I would have appreciated a bit more beans.

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And it did the job. I'm still wondering how things will work out when Barrio Donas opens their other locations…..will the prices change, will the menu remain? We'll see.

Barrio Donas
4714 Clairemont Mesa Blvd.
San Diego, CA 92117

Where in the world are we?

In case you're wondering where the Missus and I are. We're in the midst of a month long vacation…longer than we've ever taken before. So, of course we started with a couple of nights in our favorite city and started things off with coffee at our favorite "people watching cafe".

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The weather was wonderful.

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And we got to visit a place we'd had on our "list" for a while.

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We had two dinners, the first was of the Michelin, prefix menu type.

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The other….well, I think the photo says it all……

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We then headed off by train to our next stop. An interesting city of contrasts. Founded in the Middle Ages, there are medieval streets snaking its way through out the old town.

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Along with a wonderful main square.

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One of the oldest universities in the world was founded here in 1220. And to this day a good amount of the population are students. So, there's also a very modern vibe to the city as well.

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And some interesting architecture.

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With a very relaxed, genial vibe throughout.

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Our meals were quite varied here. Ranging from some pretty good and well-priced ethnic cuisine.

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To fine dining.

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Speaking of medieval cities. That was out next stop on our journey a city topped by a fortress that dates back to 100BC. 

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It was quite interesting.

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Sadly, the top 4 restaurants I had on my list were closed. Apparently places close around this time because things slow down a bit. I never came across that in my research. On the positive side; there weren't very many tourists around and we found the locals to be a hoot!

And we obviously didn't starve.

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And the region is known for a specific dish that I make at home, so the Missus was eager to see how my cooking matches up.

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You couldn't beat the views here.

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We then headed to the fourth largest city in this country. The city is known as "La Ville Rose" due to the local pink bricks which form many of the structures.

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There's not much in the way of travel guides to this city; which we enjoyed.

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Our hotel was located right on the main square where the Christmas Market was going on.

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That's the view from our window!

Our location made getting to and from the train station a snap and we did a quick day trip to one of the outlying villages as well.

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We had some nice meals, but due to timing and other things (no online reservations) we'll need to return to try some places. That said, we had some good meals.

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And had some traditional dishes as well.

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The city is not very touristy, at least in terms of Americans, a fact we really enjoyed. The place was quite lively with folks enjoying weekend and evening socializing, something that people here have made into an art form.

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It did rain while we were here, but then, the evening after the rain we took an evening stroll, and it was beautiful.

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And now, we're at our final destination….well sort of, as we have a short overnight stay planned. We're enjoying things and hope all is well with you!

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Thanks for stopping by!

Paris (2022) – Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond

We'd had a pretty busy day. And then I got the notice that our flight time had changed to very early in the morning. I had reservations about getting up at 4am, then managing to get to CDG for our early flight. So, much like what I did on a previous visit, I went and booked a night at the Sheraton in CDG Terminal 2. We'd have dinner and what not, then vacate the apartment, heading to the airport via the RER arriving around 9pm or so.

While having our no-so-good dinner at Pirouette, we noticed another place in the square was doing some major business. I looked up the place; named Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond, in case you don't know, a Bouillon (like the broth) is traditionally a restaurant that serves traditional French meals, for good prices, that serves the working class. We think of it as kind of a "diner", but with definite French touches as most Bouillons have wonderful, traditional decor. In recent years the Bouillon has been making a comeback in Paris. I had been eager to check one out and here was the opportunity. Plus, Pharamond is open from noon to midnight daily; making a very non-Parisian dinner at 530pm a possibility. Plus, we'd beat all the dinner crowds.

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We managed to just walk in a snag a table with no problem. We loved the decor of the place.

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And lest you think it was only tourists eating that this hour; I present this gentleman.

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He strolled in, took a table, knew all the staff, never needed a menu and they just brought him his dinner. There are many apartments in the area, so perhaps he lives in one of them?

We each ordered one entree and one plat.

The Missus started with the Terrine et Poulet (6,9 € – $7.25/US).

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This as quite nice; tender, great balanced offal flavors with a hint of sweetness.

I got the Bone Marrow (6,5 € – $6.75/US)

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Simply seasoned with sea salt, this was so buttery and beefy. It was heaven with the baguette.

Speaking of the bone marrow; one couple saw a gentleman and his friendly pooch having an apero at one of the outdoor tables. They asked and got permission for this 70 kilo (we asked) sweetheart to get his own "entree".

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For Her plat, the Missus ordered the Andouilette Grillee – the grilled sausage (11,5 € – $12/US)

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The sausage had a nice "snap" with a herby-garlicky flavor. The jus had just the right amount of salt for our taste and those mashed potatoes were quite  nice.

I got the Beef Tartare (11,9 €, $12.40 US).

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Service was efficient and fast. Man, to think that this dinner with wine was around $45 US….and remember, this is France, where the 15% service fee is included (not added) in the pricing.

We'll definitely check out more Bouillons when we're wanting a more traditional French meal in Paris.

Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond
24 Rue de la Grande Truanderie
75001 Paris, France

After dinner we decided to take a nice stroll past all those familiar places.

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Traveling has changed me a bit…..and for some reason France has as well. When walking past the Louvre I saw this Nona struggling to get up on one of the stone photo thingies outside the Louvre.

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I'm not sure why; but I decided to "lend my shoulders" to the effort.

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Which was a success and we all go a good laugh out of it.

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I hope she made it down safely!

There's something about Paris that we love. We can't really put our collective fingers on it. It's vibrant, full of surprises, excellent food, and also there are those other moments.

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I'm not sure where I read it; but the city still defines itself as a conglomerate of "villages"…..

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And a beautiful one at that!

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Ah Paris, we can't wait to return!

Thanks for stopping by!

Paris (2022) – Menkicchi Ramen

On our last day in Paris, we started the day by heading to our favorite cafe for people watching on Rue Montorgueil to start things out.

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We love sitting here and watching the world go by.

Once we had completed our "Montorgueil ritual" we headed off to the 2nd and did some shopping. On the way we stopped by Galerie Vivienne, which I think is one of the most beautiful of the existing Covered Passages in Paris.

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We did a bunch of shopping in the 2nd, but my credit card came out unscathed!

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While heading back to the apartment on Rue des Petits Champs, the area I've heard folks call "Paris's Little Tokyo", the Missus was feeling like some ramen. I'm not sure what it is about Paris, but we enjoy grabbing a bowl of here once in a while. I'd heard about a newish shop that made their own noodles called Menkicchi nearby, so we headed down Rue Sainte-Anne and found the rather discreet shop.

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This tiny shop would not be out of place in Japan. Oh, and the fragrances wafting in the air; it all seemed so right.

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As we often do when getting ramen; we ordered a bowl, in this case the Shio Tonkotsu and a rice bowl, the Shisen Don.

IMG_3230  IMG_3232  The noodles were really good, doughy and chewy. The tamago was cold, but nicely cooked and marinated. The chashu was on the tough side and needed more flavor.

Speaking of needing more flavor; the tonkotsu broth was quite thin and not rich enough and the flavor very weak….another soup made with the "wave method" it seems.

The pork rice bowl was quite tasty and the rice was decently cooked as well.

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The pork was nicely marinated and fairly tender. Good soy-sweetness.

I'm guessing the ramen here is all about the noodles. Speaking of all about the noodles. While we were eating, a younger, dapper Japanese gentleman entered the restaurant, he took the table next to us and fairly soon we knew he was a Japanese national. First, he ordered ramen along with a bowl of rice on the side. Second, when he started on his ramen…oohhhh the slurping! Such great memories of Japan. Then it must have suddenly struck him. No one else in the place was slurping. After all, this is Paris! You could just tell by how he raised his head that this was his "Toto, we're not in Kansas Kansai anymore moment!" I felt kinda bad for him. So, I decided to go for it and started slurping away. And he smiled and tucked in! The brotherhood of ramen, right? And all was good on Rue Sainte-Anne on this day!

Menkicchi
41 Rue Sainte-Anne
75001 Paris, France

Thanks for stopping by!

Paris (2022) – Edwart Chocolatier and Dinner at Le MaZenay

On the way back from lunch we passed this chocolate shop. We were given samples and the Missus ended up buying a variety of items.

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This was Edwart Chocolatier and would end up being Her favorite chocolate shop during this trip.

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Edwart Chocolatier
17 Rue Vieille-du-Temple
75004 Paris

So I'm certain we'll return the next time we're in Paris.

We then worked our way back to the apartment stopping at a few shops along the way. This was back in May so the days were fairly long.

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We headed out for our dinner destination at bit early…the better to do some shopping you know. As we headed up Rue St Denis we came across a couple of women, probably in their 40's-50's, tons of make-up, dressed somewhat provocatively, just standing around. From which this short conversation arose….

Me: "Hmmm…..must be the remnants of the old Saint Denis" (It used to be the Red Light district but is now gentrified)
Missus: "No, way…maybe they are hairdressers taking a break"
Me: "But I see no salons around here…."
Missus: "Maybe they're taking a smoke break from work."
Me: "But none of them are smoking…" 

Bless Her heart….

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For dinner I had made reservations at Le MaZenay, a modernish bistro, located in the Marais.

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The setting was quite simple and the service friendly.

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As with how we typically order, we ended up getting 3 entrees and one plat, with a side.

The Missus really enjoyed the Ouef Confit.

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The buttery, creamy egg yolk went so well with the petit pois, which brought a nice, mild sweetness to the dish. The sauce, made with creme fraiche was lighter than it looked and went well with the dish. The croutons added texture.

I got the Tartare de Veau and when it arrived totally drenched in sauce, I was a bit hesitant.

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It was still a bit too much sauce, which was nicely flavored. The cut of the protein was to my liking, the meat was tender, and it was chilled well.

We enjoyed the rustic Chicken Liver Terrine.

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The rustic terrine wasn't overly offal-ish, had a mild sweetness and went well with the cornichons. It had a pleasant texture and there seemed to be mashed potato in the terrine as well. This was a lot milder in flavor than we expected.

For the main, we chose one of the specials of the evening, the Skate Wing.

IMG_3204  IMG_3207 A very pleasant dish. The skate had been nicely prepared, buttery in texture, good black pepper, though perhaps a bit more salt would have helped. Very moist and tender. The accompanying veggies were fine and the caper butter sauce did well with the fish.

We also ordered the Pommes Dauphines which were excellent, crisp on the outside, light and fluffy inside.

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This was a nice meal and like I mentioned earlier, the service was quite friendly. At the table next to us sat two women who seemed to be regulars, the chef and his wife, who runs the front of house came out to chat with them. IMG_3213 The women were from London and arrived via the Eurostar. Something I'd like to do in the future!

Le MaZenay
46 Rue de Montmorency
75003 Paris, France

It was a nice evening and we took our time heading back to the apartment.

Tomorrow would be our last day in Paris before heading home and we wanted to make the best of it.

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Happy Thanksgiving!

I just thought I'd take a moment to wish everyone a most joyous, safe, and happy Thanksgiving! Well, it's not quite a traditional Thanksgiving meal where we are.

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There's so much to be thankful for these days. And every day there's something to appreciate. For instance, last night I found out that a train derailment meant that all trains out of the location we were at were cancelled…until Saturday at least! So, it meant we had to find a way to get to our next destination. After doing a bunch of searching….much of hampered by my poor language skills at our destination, I was able to book us a bus to our current location.

Anyway, we just wanted to express our thanks for your visits and comments all these years! And wish you the most wonderful Thanksgiving!